
Class TjJLLS- 
Book J39 6 



CoipghtN . /?^ 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



JL, %£. JoJkju^l. If** IcJO^jLl 



I XlfD 



Copyright 1920 

MRS. WALTER D. BUSH 

Wilmington, Delaware 



0) CI. A 6 4 3 2 6 



NOV 24 1820 



FORE WORD 

To Marion Harland and her "Common Sense Series" 
I owe my first education in cookery. Later, her "Complete 
Cook Book" and Miss Farmar's "Boston Cooking School 
Book" have furnished me with many of the best recipes in 
this book. I am also indebted to Linda Hull Lamed and her 
"Hostess of Today" for what she calls "out of the ordinary" 
recipes and to many good friends who have passed along that 
which they have found good. To these I am indebted for the 
suggestions that I should do the same. Every recipe contained 
herein, has been tested and used for years, so that the book 
goes forth with the hope that it will be a real help and de- 
pendence, especially to the young housekeeper. Study the 
first chapter; it makes the rest more easily comprehended and 
on the last pages will be found necessary information con- 
nected with materials and articles recommended in the recipes. 

—R. G. T. B. 



CHAPTER I. 

The Stove. 

In making a fresh fire, avoid smoke by putting the coal 
on top of kindling before lighting. Have plenty of paper well 
twisted up to keep it burning longer and lay the wood so that 
there will be a draught through it. 

Do not have fire box too full. It is the heated air be- 
tween the fire and your stove lids that does the cooking. 

When using a fire constantly, replenish frequently with 
small quantities of coal, and keep the lower draughts closed. 
Red hot coal has parted with much of its heat. 

Clinkers in the coal form on account of forced draughts. 
From the same cause, ashes accumulate. To save yourself 
from these inconveniences, keep draughts closed when you 
have a good fire. To keep fire over night, remove ashes, put 
on coal to fill fire box, open slide at left hand side of fire box 
and remove back lids part way. This allows a draught over 
the coal, which prevents combustion. Close damper in pipe* 
If gas escapes, from a stove arranged in this manner, it is 
because of pieces of coal on top of oven, which should not be 
allowed to remain. 

The Oven. Coal Range. 

Keep oven clean inside and out. An accumulation of 
dust and ashes, either on top or underneath the oven, inter- 
feres with the heating of it, by stopping the free circulation 
of the hot air. 

Temperature. 

The hottest part of an oven is at the top and far back. 
If you have not a thermometer in your oven, determine the 
temperature as nearly as possible, by the following tests. 
Very hot oven, hold your hand in the oven while you count 
8 slowly. Hot oven, hold your hand in the oven while you 
count 12 slowly. Moderate oven, hold your hand in the oven 
while you count 20 slowly. 



WHAT AND HOW 



Baking. 

Bake bread on the bottom of the oven first; when risen 
and two-thirds baked, finish on rack to brown. 

Bake loaf cake the same way. 

Bake layer cakes on rack. 

All doughs and batters made with yeast, require moderate 
oven; doughs and batters made with baking powder, require 
hot oven; pastry requires hot oven. Keep it near center of 
oven when possible. 

The Gas Oven. 

For a hot oven let both burners burn full flame for 10 
minutes to heat oven, and turn down half way when the articles 
to be roasted, baked, or broiled, are put in. 

For a moderate oven, heat with both burners 5 minutes 
and reduce flame. This is the proper oven for bread and loaf 
cake. The heat may be increased or decreased according to 
directions given for baking. Neither bread nor cake should 
begin to brown the first period, which in bread and loaf cake 
is 15 minutes, in layer cake 5 minutes. 

Bake bread on middle rack for 45 minutes if loaves are 
not very large; when bread is well browned and shrinks from 
the side of the pan, it is done. 

Bake loaf cake on middle rack and layer cake on the one 
above. It will be prudent to use asbestos mats under loaf 
oake to avoid burning, especially in the case of gingerbread. 

Bake rolls and muffins on rack above the middle one; to 
brown puddings, etc., put them under the oven light for a 
few moments. 

As racks may vary in different gas stoves, observe the 
following measurements : 

Middle rack —4 inches from floor of oven. 

Upper rack— 7 inches from floor of oven. 

Top rack— 3 inches from top of oven. 

These measures will vary slightly, but are near enough 
to serve as a guide. 



CHAPTER I. 



Roasting Meat. 

Have oven hot, put meat in hottest part until well seared, 
then remove into cooler part to finish cooking. 

To keep oven from rusting, leave door open after using, 
until moisture is dried out. Use squares of newspaper for 
rubbing off spots or material spilled upon stove or in oven; 
keep them strung upon a string hanging in a convenient place. 

Wipe oven occasionally with a cloth dipped lightly in 
grease, or a piece of cheese cloth wrapped around a piece of 
fat. Use also on the gas range instead of stove blacking. 

Wipe gas range carefully after using, and never leave 
any dampness or moisture on it. If kept dry and clean with 
occasional greasing to prevent rust, a gas stove will last for 
years without needing repairs. 

Methods of Cooking. 

Boiling is cooking in boiling water in sufficient quantity 
to cover. Water boils at 212 degrees F. and water boiling 
rapidly is the same temperature as water boiling slowly; but 
more heat escapes when boiling is rapid. 

Simmering is cooking in water at a temperature of 185 
degrees F., just below boiling point. This method will render 
the toughest meat tender. 

Stewing is cooking in a small quantity of water at a low 
temperature. The casserole and fireless cooker stew the food 
cooked in them. It is the most economical method of cook- 
ing, as all nutriment is retained and the fibre softened. 

Broiling is cooking over a clear fire- in a gridiron. 

Pan broiling is cooking in a pan without grease. For 
successful pan broiling, two things are essential. A very hot 
pan, and frequent turning of the meat to keep juices in the 
centre of it. 

Baking is cooking in an oven, and while practically 
baked meats are not roasted, the terms are used interchange- 
ably. Roasting cannot be done except on a spit in front of 
an open fire; as the range has taken the place of the old 
fashioned fire place, baking takes the place of roasting with 
results much the same. 



10 WHAT AND HOW 



Frying is cooking in fat deep enough to cover the article, 
at a temperature high enough to harden, at once, outside sur- 
face and thus prevent entrance of grease. 

Testing fat for frying. When fat is hot enough to smoke, 
drop in a small piece of bread; if it browns in 40 seconds it is 
the right temperature for cooked food. For uncooked food, 
it should brown in 60 seconds. One may determine the 
length of time, by counting 40 slowly for the one, and 60 
slowly for the other. 

Once acquired, the art of frying properly becomes a 
habit, so I urge upon my readers and pupils the careful study 
of these rules and directions: 

1. Have fat of proper depth and at correct temperature 
before starting to fry. 

2. Remember that temperature must be lower for raw 
material, so that it may cook through before hardening too 
much on the surface. 

3. Too much must not be put into the fat at once. The 
temperature of the fat lowers enough to spoil the frying, the 
hot grease enters the croquette or cruller, increases in heat 
and bursts it. 

4. Drain all fried food on absorbent paper to remove 
any trace of grease. 

5. All food, egged and crumbed, will fry better, if chilled 
for 2 hours after dipping in crumbs, and before frying. 

6. The cheapest frying material is a combination of beef 
suet, rendered, and Crisco. Crisco is a vegetable fat and therefore 
will not absorb and hold odors from articles cooked in it. Also 
it needs no clarifying and may be used over even after fish has 
been cooked in it, which is not possible where lard (animal fat) 
has been used. After experimenting with other fats, both 
vegetable and animal, I recommend Crisco as the most eco- 
nomical and satisfactory frying medium of which I^have any 
knowledge. 

To render suet, skin it and put through the meat chopper, 
or chop fine with a knife. Cook it in a double boiler until it 
is all melted. Strain into a kettle. One pound of suet will 
make enough fat to last a long while, and it keeps well. 



CHAPTER I 11 



Clarify the fat after each frying, if it needs it, by frying 
in it 4 slices of potato, cut % inch thick. When the potato 
is brown, it will have absorbed any odors and most of the 
sediment. Strain through double cheese cloth. Crisco 
does not absorb odors and consequently can be used over 
and over again without clarifying. Suet comes next, and 
needs clarifying only occasionally, while lard and drippings 
cannot be used for fish without retaining the odor. 

Sauteing is frying in a small quantity of fat. This is the 
method of frying which has raised the protest against the 
frying pan. Food properly fried is quite easy of digestion, 
but when sauted, it is liable to absorb the grease and so cause 
indigestion. Sauteing should be carefully done and the food 
should have no appearance of grease upon it. 

Braising is baking meat in a double pan, the cover of 
which prevents the escape of steam. By this method tough 
meat is made tender, and the most tasteless cut absorbs the 
flavor of vegetables and herbs cooked with it. The steam con- 
denses on the lid and drops back upon the meat basting it 
constantly. Braising requires long slow cooking and at no 
time should the water in the pan be allowed to boil. 

Egg and crumb, means to dip into egg slightly beaten, 
diluted with one tablespoon cold water to each egg and 
seasoned wiih salt and pepper, then roll in fine dry crumbs 
until well coated with them. 

Crumb, egg and crumb means to dip in crumbs first, 
then in egg and crumbs again. 

Dripping is any good fat drained from the pan after 
roasting meat. It should always be strained. To this may 
be added from time to time any quantity of fat, no matter 
how small, left after frying. Keep one empty Crisco can for 
the fat used for deep fat frying, it is a most economical method 
inasmuch as the fat may be used over and over again; keep 
another one for dripping. 

Use soft absorbent paper for draining any food fried in 
deep fat. 

Buttered crumbs are fresh crumbs mixed with hot 
melted butter, and used to cover scallops and puddings. An 



12 WHATANDHOW 



improvement over the old way of dotting the tops of these 
dishes with bits of butter. 

Au gratin means covered with crumbs and browned. 

Shortening is a term used to designate any kind of fat, 
which may be lard, Crisco, dripping, or butter, mixed with 
flour for biscuits and pastry. 

Note the difference between melted butter and butter 
melted. A teaspoonful of the latter will make three teaspoons 
of the former. 

Recipes calling for eggs beaten light, mean without sepa- 
rating, if intended to be beaten separately it will be so stated. 

Peppers used in these recipes mean sweet peppers. 

To mill means to beat vigorously with egg beater or 
wire spoon. 

To marinate means to allow meat or vegetables to lay 
in a bath of oil and vinegar or lemon juice to soften the fibre 
of the meat, or flavor the vegetables. Use three times as 
much oil as vinegar, or the juice of two large lemons to three 
tablespoons oil. Wipe meat but do not wash. 

A dash of pepper means one shake from the perforated 
top of pepper box. 

A dash of nutmeg means two scrapes of the nutmeg on 
the grater. 

To caramelize means to melt sugar over a moderate fire, 
and allow it to brown, but not to burn. 

To fold in means to bring to the surface from under- 
neath and put over the cream or eggs on top, thus folding 
the batter or custard over the egg or cream until it is mixed 
without beating. 

Onion juice is extracted by pressing the flat surface of a 
cut onion against a grater with a rotary motion. To chop a 
small quantity of onion, peel and cut off a splice from the end. 
Holding in the left hand, cut the onion across with a very sharp 
knife in lines close together. Cross these lines again with 
similar ones; then cut off a very thin slice or more if desired. 

To dredge means to cover with flour, using a dredge box 
with perforated lid. 



CHAPTER I. 13 



Dry crumbs means crumbs obtained by drying pieces 
of crusts and stale bread in the oven, and grinding them fine 
in the meat chopper. Sift through wire sieve, and put away 
in separate jars, the finer ones for croquettes, cutlets, etc., 
the coarser for baked scallops or puddings. 

Fresh crumbs are made from stale bread not dried in 
oven. They should be rubbed through a colander in order 
to have them as fine as possible. 

Basting means to take up the liquid with a spoon from 
the pan containing roasting meat and pour it over the meat 
to keep it from being too dry. It is necessary to use hot water 
at first until the fat melts and flows into the pan. 

To Shape Croquettes. 

Use a small bread board. Drop about a tablespoonful 
of the mixture on to the board and with a broad knife, roll 
it back and forth until of proper shape, flatten the ends and 
still using the knife, roll the cylinder through the crumbs 
which should also be upon the board. Have on a plate an 
egg slightly beaten with one tablespoonful of water, and 
seasoned well with salt and pepper. With the knife, roll the 
croquette from the board to the plate, through the egg to 
the board again and once more through the crumb, being 
careful that every spot of the croquette is covered, including 
the ends. 

Cutlets are flat croquettes, smaller at one end than the 
other. They may be made on the board as directed for cro- 
quettes, and patted lightly into shape. 

Flour that is cheap in price, is not cheap in reality; it al- 
ways requires more of it to make the same quantity of bread. 

If a loaf of bread or cake breaks on top while baking, 
either the heat is too intense or too much flour has been used. 

Layer cake batter should not be as stiff as a loaf cake 
batter. 

Too much baking powder will cause a batter to be coarse 
grained. 

A batter is a mixture that can be beaten. 

A sponge is an yeast mixture than can be beaten. 



14 WHATANDHOW 



A dough is a mixture too stiff to be stirred with a spoon. 

Bread dough is light when it has doubled its bulk; the 
same applies to rolls and rusks. 

A sponge is light when it is covered over with bubbles 
of air, and has increased to twice the original quantity. 

Egg yolks are light, when thick and pale lemon color. 

Egg whites are light, when they fly from the beater, and 
will not leave the bowl if it is turned upside down. 

If bread dough becomes light at an inconvenient time 
for baking, it may be "cut down" by turning the handle of 
the bread mixer, or with a knife if it is in a bowl, and set aside 
to rise again. This will prevent its turning sour. 

When rolls are light, they may be kept for hours with- 
out baking, if put into a refrigerator or very cold place. 

To heat over stale rolls, take each one on a fork and dip 
into hot water and out again as quickly as possible; put into 
moderate oven until hot through. 

Bread and rolls made with potatoes will keep moist and 
fresh several days. 

Beat eggs in a cool place, and do not beat them until you 
are ready to use them, as they "go back" if allowed to stand. 

When creaming butter and sugar, a silver fork is the 
best instrument to use, or a wooden spoon with slits in it. 

Russia iron baking sheets if well waxed will not need 
greasing. The waJx should be rubbed over them while hot, 
and will not need renewing for a long time. 

If fruit be added to batter before the flour is put in and 
the batter thoroughly beaten, it will be well distributed 
through the cake or pudding. 

Mould and chill means to put into a mould rinsed in cold 
water, cool, and set away in cold place to harden. 

Bottle and seal means to fill bottle, cork tightly, cut off 
cork level with the bottle, and dip into melted sealing wax or 
paraffine to make it air tight. 

Ramekins are small dishes, each intended for one per- 
son; used for scalloped and au gratih preparations, eggs, etc. 

Make jelly bag of double cheese cloth, or coarse muslin 
doubled over, cornucopia shape. 



CHAPTERI 15 



To blanch almonds pour boiling water over shelled al- 
monds, allow them to stand 2 or 3 minutes, drain, cover with 
cold water and rub skins off between the fingers. Should they 
fail to slip off easily repeat the process. 

Milk is scalded when a skin forms over the top. Use 
double boiler to avoid burning. 

To shell chestnuts. Score shells and heat in pan with one 
teaspoon butter to each pint of chestnuts. Shake pan until 
nuts are covered with melted butter, set in oven for 5 minutes 
and remove shells and skin together. 

Over hot water means to place the sauce pan either over 
the boiling tea kettle, or in a larger sauce pan of boiling water. 
Used for melting chocolate, cooking sauces, etc. 

To spin a thread means that stage in the boiling of 
syrup, when a drop from the end of a spoon dipped into the 
syrup, will elongate into a fine thread. 

Coffee infusion is obtained by pouring boiling water 
through finely pulverized coffee in a double piece of cheese 
cloth, or by boiling ground coffee in small quantity of water. 
It must be of double strength. 

If parafline oozes and the juice appears on top, either 
there is a hole in it, or it has melted around the edges. Caused 
by pouring the paraffine over the jelly or jam before the latter 
is cold. 

To wash butter. Scald a bowl and dip your right hand 
several times into the hot water, which will not scald you if 
quickly done; then wash both bowl and hand in very cold 
water, until they are thoroughly chilled. This process pre- 
vents the butter from sticking to the bowl or your fingers 
while washing it. Squeeze the butter under cold running 
water, until it becomes waxy and pliable. Pat and wipe dry. 

A soapstone griddle needs no greasing. Before and after 
using rub it over with salt. 

A steel griddle needs no greasing for cakes, as the melted 
butter for which the recipes call, is sufficient to keep them 
from sticking. This does not apply to cakes containing 
molasses. 

The waffle iron should not be washed, clean it with salt. 



16 WHATANDHOW 



A butter brush is a small flat paint brush, to be used 
for buttering or greasing pudding dishes, cake pans, etc. It 
must be washed thoroughly after using and kept in a clean 
glass containing enough water to cover the bristles. By this 
means, it is always clean and needs only a shake or two to 
rid it of superfluous water before using. If not kept in water, 
the bristles will become loose. 

If boiled icing fails to harden, slip the cake into a cool 
oven for a few moments. 

Scissors are a necessity in the kitchen; keep a pair of 
medium size hanging in a convenient place. Cut chicken 
and celery for salad, meat for stews, raisins for cake and use 
them whenever you can instead of a knife. 

When flour is sifted twice or more, sift on to squares 
of manilla paper, using 2 squares. The flour is more easily 
returned to the sifter from the paper than from a plate or 
bowl. 

Drain Codfish by squeezing in a small salt bag, after 
washing well in a sieve. Souffles, fish balls, creamed cod- 
fish, etc., are frequently ruined by the water clinging to the 
fish after washing. This applies more particularly to the 
shredded fish. 

When ice cream or frozen fruit is coarse and granular, 
it is because too much salt has been used in proportion to the 
ice. This will cause more rapid freezing, but the cream will 
not be smooth. One measure of salt to three of pounded ice 
is the correct proportion. 

If custard curdles in the making, it is because it has been 
cooked too long, or the milk has been added to the yolks too 
rapidly or too hot. A vigorous beating with a wire whisk 
will often remedy the trouble if it is caused by cooking too 
long; as curdling results from the cooking of the egg if the 
milk is too hot, nothing will restore it in that case. 

To whip cream use ordinary cream from the top of milk 
bottle. Unless you have poor milk, this will be easily whipped. 
Whip with a Dover egg beater either in a cold place, or over 
a bowl of cracked ice. When it is frothy on top, set in the 
refrigerator for )4 hour to chill thoroughly, or if the outside 



CHAPTER I 17 



temperature is low enough, by open window. Skim off the 
whipped cream and repeat until you have the quantity re- 
quired. If using heavy cream, be careful in the beating; if 
not very cold, or if beaten too long this grade of cream is 
readily churned into butter. If a large quantity is desired, 
purchase ordinary cream and whip as directed above. If 
chilled by outside temperature, it will not require so long as 
yi hour, it may be skimmed off as soon as it is stiff. This is an 
economical and easy method. 

Add flavoring extracts to custards, etc., when they have 
become cold. Much of the good taste of these extracts will 
pass off if heated. In the case of baked custards, use slightly 
larger quantity than in boiled custards, as they necessarily 
cannot be flavored after cooking. 

When cutting lemons for lemonade, etc., wash knife at 
once. Otherwise there will be a stain to scour off. 

After using the cream dipper wash and hang up at once. 
Especially if you are fortunate enough to own one of those 
with a lifting valve; the wire is readily bent, which will pre- 
vent the valve from covering the aperture closely. In case 
the dipper leaks, examine the wire lifter* 

A soup bouquet. Tie together 1 spray of parsley, 1 of 
thyme, some celery tops, a bay leaf and a chilli pepper. This 
will flavor 4 quarts soup if simmered with it for an hour or 
more. 

Pimento, canned sweet red pepper. 

Timbale, any thing baked in small moulds, turned out 
and served hot. 

Tarragon, an herb used in flavoring vinegar. 

Chives, an herb allied to the onion family. 

Garlic, an herb allied to the onion family. 

Capers are the buds of a plant growing in countries border- 
ing on the Mediterranean Sea, and imported into this country 
in bottles. Valuable in sauces, etc. 

Paprika, a powder made from sweet red pepper, 
and not to be confused with cayenne. It is a valuable 
seasoning. 



18 WHATANDHOW 



Measuring. 

For all cup measures, use either glass or aluminum measur- 
ing cups, with both quarters and thirds marked on the sides. 

A teaspoonful means, unless otherwise stated, a well 
rounded teaspoonful. 

A tablespoonf ul — the same. 

For half teaspoons and tablespoons, take a rounded 
spoonful, and with a knife cut in half lengthwise and not 
across. 

Use regulation tablespoon for measuring, do not confuse 
with ordinary kitchen stirring spoon. 

A cupful of butter, lard or Crisco means a cup packed 
full and leveled off. 

In measuring dry ingredients, liquids, and fat, measure 
in order named, so as to use but one cup. 

To measure when recipe calls for weighing, the following 
table may be used: 

1 pound of butter is 2 cups. 

1 pound of flour is 4 cups. 

1 pound of granulated sugar is 2 cups. 

1 pound of powdered sugar is 2^" cups. 

1 pound brown sugar is 2^3 cups. 

1 ounce of chocolate is 1 square (Baker's). 

1 ounce butter is 1 tablespoon. 

1 ounce flour is 2 tablespoons. 

A tablespoon holds 3 teaspoons. 

A cup holds 8 tablespoons. 

A cup holds 16 tablespoons liquid. 

A gill of liquid is y^ cup. 

1 ounce granulated sugar is 1 tablespoon. 

1 ounce coffee, ground, is 2 tablespoons. 

2 tablespoons liquid make 1 ounce. 



How to Use Gas Economically. 

Never use a large burner when a small one will do the work. 
Do not use heavy iron pots and kettles— it takes gas to 
heat them. 



CHAPTER I. 19 



Have articles ready at the range before lighting gas. 

TURN FLAME DOWN to keep flame underneath the 
sauce pan. 

Gas is wasted when flame flares up around sides of kettle. 

TURN FLAME LOW when boiling begins and boiling 
will continue with half the blaze of gas. 

Use simmer burner for soup, stew, boiling ham, etc.; 
also for the coffee pot. 

Plan to have ready several things for the ovens at one 
time and thus cook a variety of articles in the bake-oven with 
the same heat that roasts or broils meat in lower oven under 
the flame. 

Vegetables may "fry" or brown in same pan with meat. 

Vegetables may boil on floor of oven while meat cooks 
in broiler under the flame. 

Slide racks in bake-oven at proper height, set no baking 
on floor. 

TIME TABLE FOR COOKING WITH GAS. 

Baking. 

Loaf Bread 40 to 60 min. 

Light Rolls 5 to 12 min. 

Biscuit 10 to 15 min. 

Muffins 20 to 30 min. 

Layer Cakes 20 to 30 min. 

Loaf Cakes 40 to 75 min. 

Sponge Cakes 40 to 75 min. 

Cookies 10 to 15 min. 

Custards 15 to 30 min. 

Pies 20 to 30 min. 

Potatoes 20 to 40 min. 

Beans 8 to 10 hrs. 

Braised Meat 3 to 4 hrs. 

Scallops 15 to 30 min. 

Fish, 4 to 6 lbs 1 to 1J4 hrs. 



20 WHATANDHOW 



Roasting and Broiling 

Beef —Rolled Roast, Sirloin, Rump 

12 min. to the pound after browning 

Mutton. 15 min. to the pound after browning 

Veal, Lamb, well done 20 min. to the pound 

Pork 30 min. to the pound 

Chickens, 2^ to 4 lbs 1 to iy£ hrs. 

Turkey, 10-lbs 3 hrs. 

Ducks, about 1 hr. 

Steak, 1}4 in. thick 18 to 20 min. 

Chops, 1 in. thick 15 min. 

Small Fish, about 15 min. 

Thick Fish .20 to 30 min. 

Chickens, broiled 20 to 30 min. 

Boiling. 

Eggs, Coffee, Clams, Oysters 3 to 5 min. 

Rice, Green Corn, Peas, Tomatoes, Asparagus .... 15 to 30 min. 
Potatoes, Macaroni, Squash, Celery, Spinach, 

Sweetbreads 20 to 40 min. 

Young Vegetables 30 to 45 min. 

Winter Vegetables, Cereals, Chicken and Lamb . . 1 to 2 hrs. 

Fowl, Turkey, Veal 2 to 3 hrs. 

Corned Beef, Tongue, Ham 3 to 6 hrs. 

Fish, per lb 10 to 15 min. 

TIME TABLE 
FOR COAL RANGE. 

Baking. 

Beans, 8 to 10 hours. 

Beef, rare, per pound, 10 minutes. 

Beef, well done, per pound, 12 minutes. 

Biscuits, 10 to 15 minutes. 

Bread, 45 to 60 minutes. 

Cake, layer, 20 minutes. 

Cake, loaf, plain, 35 to 45 minutes. 

Cake, fruit, 2 to 4 hours. 



CHAPTERI 21 



Cake, sponge, 45 minutes. 

Chickens, per pound, 15 minutes. 

Cookies, 10 minutes. 

Custards in cups, 20 to 30 minutes. 

Custard puddings, 30 to 45 minutes. 

Duck, domestic, 1 hour. 

Duck, wild, per pound, 12 minutes. 

Fish, whole, per pound, 10 minutes. 

Fish, fillets, 20 minutes. 

Gingerbread, 30 minutes. 

Graham gems, 30 minutes. 

Goose, 8 to 10 pounds, 2 hours. 

Ham, per pound, 15 minutes. 

Lamb, per pound, 15 minutes. 

Liver, per pound, 12 minutes. 

Meat, braised, 3 hours. 

Mutton, per pound, 15 minutes. 

Muffins, yeast, J^ hour. 

Muffins, baking powder, 20 minutes. 

Partridge, 35 to 40 minutes. 

Pigeons, 45 to 60 minutes. 

Pork, per pound, 20 minutes. 

Potatoes, 45 minutes. 

Pie crust, 30 to 50 minutes. 

Puddings, plum, 3 hours. 

Puddings, bread and tapioca, 1 hour. 

Puddings, rice, \y£ hours. 

Rolls, 12 to 20 minutes. 

Scalloped dishes, cooked mixture, 15 minutes. 

Scalloped oysters, 30 minutes. 

Tarts, 15 to 20 minutes. 

Turkey, per pound, 15 minutes. 

Veal, per pound, 18 minutes. 

Venison, per pound, 10 minutes. 



Boiling. 

Asparagus, 20 to 30 min'utes. 
Beans, lima, 25 to 40 minutes. 



22 WHATANDHOW 



Beans, string, 45 to 90 minutes. 

Beef, corned, 4 to 5 hours. 

Beets, new, 45 minutes. 

Beets, old, 3 to 4 hours. 

Bass and bluefish, per pound, 10 minutes. 

Brussels sprouts, 15 to 20 minutes. 

Cabbage, 25 to 45 minutes. 

Carrots, young, 45 minutes. 

Carrots, old, \yi hours. 

Cauliflower, 20 to 30 minutes. 

Celery, 20 to 30 minutes. 

Chicken, young, 1 hour. 

Chicken, old, 3 hours. 

Clams and oysters, 5 minutes. 

Codfish, fresh, per pound, 10 minutes. 

Corn, green, 5 to 8 minutes. 

Eggs, soft, 3 minutes. 

Eggs, hard, 20 minutes. 

Haddock, per pound, 10 minutes. 

Halibut, per pound, thick slice, 15 minutes. 

Ham, 12 pounds, 4 hours. 

Hominy, large, 8 to 10 hours. 

Hominy, fine, 1 hour. 

Lobster, 30 minutes. 

Macaroni, 25 minutes. 

Mutton, per pound, 15 minutes. 

Oatmeal, 1 hour. 

Onions, 45 to 60 minutes. 

Oyster plant (salsify) 45 to 60 minutes. 

Parsnips, 30 to 45 minutes. 

Peas, green, 20 minutes. 

Peas, dried and soaked, 1 hour. 

Potatoes, white, 20 to 30 minutes. 

Potatoes, sweet, 15 to 25 minutes. 

Rice, 20 to 25 minutes. 

Salmon, thick piece, per pound, 20 minutes. 

Small fish, per pound, 8 minutes. 

Spinach, 20 to 30 minutes. 



CHAPTERI. 23 



Squash, 20 to 30 minutes. 
Sweetbreads, 20 minutes. 
Tomatoes, 20 minutes. 
Turkey, per pound, 18 to 20 minutes. 
Turnips, 30 to 45 minutes. 

Broiling. 

Chickens, 20 minutes. 
Chops, lamb, 8 to 10 minutes. 
Shad, 15 to 30 minutes. 
Steak, 6 to 8 minutes. 
Squabs, 10 to 15 minutes. 
Slices of fish, 12 to 15 minutes. 

Frying. 

Bacon, 3 to 5 minutes. 
Chops, breaded, 6 to 8 minutes. 
Croquettes, 2 minutes. 
Doughnuts, 3 to 5 minutes. 
Fillets of fish, 5 minutes. 
Fish balls, 2 minutes. 
Fritters, 3 to 5 minutes. 
Potatoes, raw, 4 to 8 minutes. 
Smelts, 3 minutes. 
Small fish, 5 minutes. 

This time table is as nearly accurate as can be given, and 
is to serve as a guide until experience is gained. Time for 
baking bread and cake depends upon the size of the loaf; for 
fish, upon its thickness. For boiling vegetables, the time de- 
pends upon their size and age; time for boiling meat, upon its 
thickness, and for frying raw potatoes, upon whether they are 
sliced very thin or cut in blocks, or Frenched. 



u 



CHAPTER II. 

HOT BEVERAGES AND COLD DRINKS 

Tea. 

Always use freshly boiled water for making tea and drip 
coffee. Scald tea or coffee pot well before using. Allow for 
tea, 1 teaspoon tea for each cup and 1 extra "for the pot." 
After pouring the boiling water over the tea, let stand closely 
covered, five minutes, and strain. Tea made in this man- 
ner is far less unwholesome than by any other method. If 
boiled or allowed to stand longer, too much tannin is ex- 
tracted. For iced tea, make double strength, or 2 teaspoons 
tea to 1 cup of water. 

Coffee. 

Three methods are employed in making coffee, filtering, 
percolating and boiling. While it is largely a matter of taste, 
and many persons prefer their coffee boiled, filtered coffee has two 
points in its favor, first, economy of material, and second, 
in variableness, which is also true of the percolating process. 

The coffee must be pulverized, consequently it takes 
much less to make a cup, besides which no egg or other material 
for clearing is necessary. As the water is merely poured over the 
coffee, and there is no cooking, it is always the same and can 
be depended upon to be just right in strength, and clear in 
color. 

Do not use tin coffee pot; enamel ware for boiling, and 
china or silver for filtered coffee will be found the best; for 
percolating, aluminun. 

Boiled Coffee. 

Scald granite ware or enameled coffee pot. For four 
or five cups coffee, allow $4 cup coarsely ground coffee, and 
mix with % cup cold water. Add 1 egg and the crushed shell. 
Stir until well mixed. Add 3 cups boiling water and boil 
hard for three minutes, stir well, and boil three minutes 
longer. Add % cup cold water to settle the grounds, and 



HOT BEVERAGES AND COLD DRINKS 25 



put on back of stove where it will not boil. After standing 
a few moments to settle perfectly it is ready to serve. 

A more economical way and almost as good is to use 
same proportion of coffee and water, substituting cold water 
for boiling. Let it stand over night in the closely covered 
pot. In the morning bring slowly to the boiling point, boil 
three minutes, stir, and boil three minutes more. Clear by 
using the cold water as in preceding recipe. By this means 
all the strength of the coffee is extracted. It can also be made 
without standing over night, but the whole strength of the 
coffee is not drawn out. 

Filtered or Drip Coffee. 

There are many kinds of coffee pots or percolaters on 
the market, as a glauce at the advertising end of the maga- 
zines will show. The simplest way of making drip coffee is 
to have a ring of copper wire with an open space about an 
inch long, made to fit over a china pitcher or silver coffee 
pot. On this run a bag of muslin of rather coarse weave, 
but thicker than cheese cloth. If making two or three cups, 
the ring sho l uld hold a bag not less than four inches deep and 
nine inches around the top, with the corners cut off at the 
bottom to give a rounded shape. Finish with a single hem, 
through which the wire ring may slip. For a larger quantity 
of coffee the bag should be five inches deep and about twelve 
inches around the top. 

Allow 3 heaping teaspoons of pulverized coffee to 2 coffee 
cups water, which must be boiling hard and poured over the 
coffee in the bag very gradually. Have pot or pitcher scalding 
hot, the bag also, and keep closely covered while making. 
The saving in coffee will make it quite worth while to pur- 
chase a coffee grinder that will pulverize; it will pay for itself 
in a short time and last for years. 

After Dinner Coffee 

may be made according to either recipe, but must be made 
double strength. Its clearness is assured by the use of the 
bag. 



26 WHATANDHOW 



Vienna Coffee. 

Make coffee double strength. Pour cup half full, fill it 
up with scalding hot milk and top off with whipped cream. 
This is delicious, and will serve to remind some of the older 
housekeepers of the Centennial Fair in Philadelphia in 1876. 

To Make Three Cups of Coffee. 

y 2 cup ground coffee. Scald coffee pot, put in the coffee 
and ^2 egg and shell. The remainder will do for the next day. 
Mix egg and coffee with a spoon; add 2^" cups cold water. 
Put on the stove where it will heat gradually and come slowly 
to the boiling point. The more time it has to reach this point, 
the more strength it will have. Allow it to boil 5 minutes, 
pour ^ cup cold water into the spout to settle it, and set on the 
back of the stove where it cannot boil, for 5 minutes before 
serving. 

Chocolate. 

Scald 3 cups milk in double boiler. Melt \y 2 squares 
chocolate over hot water, add % cup sugar and a dash of salt. 
Gradually pour into this, 1 cup boiling water, put on to the 
stove and stir smooth until ready to boil. Add to milk, mill 
and serve in chocolate cups. Whipped cream may be dropped 
on each cup if desired. 

Cocoa. 

Cocoa is a healthful beverage, differing from chocolate 
in the amount of fat extracted from the cocoa nibs or beans. 
Invalids and young children can be allowed cocoa where choco- 
late is forbidden. Both chocolate and cocoa contain nutriment 
which is largely increased by the milk used to make them into 
beverages. Miss Farmar classes chocolate as a confection 
and cocoa as a beverage. Her "Boston Cooking School Cook 
Book" contains a full account of the manufacture of different 
preparations from the fruit of the Cacao tree. 

To Make Cocoa 

follow directions given on can. Different brands require 



HOT BEVERAGES AND COLD DRINKS 27 



different quantities. A marshmallow dropped into each cup 
will give almost the same richness as whipped cream. 

Lemonade. 

Lemonade is entitled to first place on the list of fruit 
beverages, refreshing as it is in itself, and capable as it is of 
numerous variations. 

Proportions for mixing are 3 times as much sugar as lemon 
juice, and 6 times as much water, but it may be wise to hold 
back part of the sugar until after mixing, in case it should 
be too sweet. It is quite easy to add more sugar, but not so 
easy to add more lemon juice and water. In hot weather it 
is most convenient to have lemonade syrup "on tap." It will 
keep in the refrigerator for a week. 

Lemonade Syrup. 

\Yi cups lemon juice 2 quarts water 

4 cups sugar 

Boil sugar and water for ten minutes without stirring, 
add lemon juice and cool. Put into bottles or preserve jars, 
and keep in cold place. When desired for use, dilute with 
ice water, and serve in glasses with cracked ice. 

Cut up the lemon skins and cover with cold water. After 
standing several hours, or over night, drain and use water to 
dilute syrup. 

Lemonade II. 

Serve lemonade prepared as above with a sprig of fresh 
mint in the glass. It gives a most refreshing flavor. 

Mint Tulip. 

To the juice of 6 lemons and 1 orange, add 2 cups sugar, 
1 cup water and 6 thin slices lemon. Let this mixture stand on 
ice for 4 hours. When ready to serve add the grated peel of 
1 lemon and 3 bottles of ginger ale. Also a bunch of mint. 

Mint Cup. 

Express the juice from 5 large lemons. Strip the leaves 
from a bunch of mint— there should be about a cupful— and 



28 WHATANDHOW 



crush them with iy< cups sugar and *4 cup water. Add the 
lemon juice, cover and let stand half hour or longer. Just 
before serving, pour into large pitcher and add three bottles 
ginger ale, previously chilled. If desired, more water may 
be added, without spoiling the flavor; it will weaken the taste 
of the ginger ale. 

Pineapple Lemonade. 

Boil together 2 cups water and 1 cup sugar ten minutes 
without stirring. Add juice three lemons, 1 quart ice water, 
and 1 can Hawaiian grated pineapple. Strain if desired. 

Apollinaris Lemonade. 

Dilute lemonade syrup with half quantity of ice water, 
and add Appollinaris water. 

Fruit Punch. 

1 cup water 1 pint strawberry juice 

2 cups sugar 5 large lemons, juice only 
2 cups grape juice 5 oranges, juice only 

1 quart Appollinaris 1 can Hawaiian grated pineapple 

1 pint fresh strawberries 1 cup bananas diced 

Make syrup according to directions given in preceding 
recipes, add grape juice, fruit juices, and pineapple. Cover 
and let stand at least an hour. Strain and add ice water care- 
fully until it tastes just right, neither too strong nor too weak. 
Add strawberries and bananas, and pour into a punch bowl 
over a large piece of ice. When ready to serve, pour into it 
the Appollinaris water. While 'strictly a fruit punch, this 
beverage will pass for a punch not entirely innocent of wine 
and brandy. The recipe makes 50 lemonade glasses full. 

Victoria Punch. 

Pour 1 cup hot tea infusion over 1 cup granulated sugar. 
When sugar is dissolved add $4 CU P orange juice and }i cup 
lemon juice. Strain into a punch bowl over large piece ice, 
and just before serving add 1 pint ginger ale and 1 pint Appol- 
linaris water. 



HOT BEVERAGES AND COLD DRINKS 29 



Raspberry Vinegar. 

Raspberry vinegar is an old-fashioned beverage which 
will never be declined if properly prepared. Use fresh rasp- 
berries; put them into a kettle with just enough water to keep 
them from sticking. When hot through, mash with a wooden 
spoon and hang up over night in a jelly bag, or put through 
a fruit press which is more expeditious. To each pint of juice 
allow 1 pint sugar and boil 20 minutes. Add vinegar to taste, 
bottle and seal. To use, dilute with ice water and serve in 
glasses with cracked ice. 

Blackberry Vinegar. 

is made just as raspberry vinegar, using blackberries instead 
of raspberries. 

Grape Juice. 

10 lbs. grapes 1 cup water 

3 pounds sugar 

Put grapes arid water into kettle and cook until skins 
and seeds separate. Strain in jelly bag or put through fruit 
press. Return juice to fire, add sugar and heat to boiling 
point. Bottle and seal. This should make 1 gallon. To 
use, dilute with water, and serve in small glasses over crushed 
ice. 

English Lemonade. 

Scrub 6 lemons, and with 6 lumps of sugar, rub the "zest" 
or oil from the peel. Squeeze the lemons, add the strained 
juice to the sugar. Make a syrup that will thread, of >£ cup 
water and 4 cups sugar, add to lemon juice and sugar. When 
dissolved add, 3 cups boiling water, cover closely and set aside 
to chill. Serve with plenty of ice. A cup of chopped pineapple 
may be added, or strawberries, if in season. 

Iced Tea. 

Make tea double strength, allow it to steep 10 minutes, 
strain. Add more water, stir up the tea leaves, cover and 
let stand 10 minutes. Strain and add to first lot. This can 



30 WHATANDHOW 



be diluted with ice water, thus cooling it quickly. Serve in 
glasses with cracked ice; sugar and sliced lemon to be passed 
with it. 

Iced Coffee I. 

Make strong coffee (see recipe for after dinner coffee), 
and while hot add y^ as much scalding hot milk. Chill, and 
serve in glasses half full of cracked ice. Sweeten to taste. 
Pile whipped cream on top each glass. 

Iced Coffee II. 

Make after dinner coffee, chill; serve in glasses with cracked 
ice, % full; top off with whipped cream sweetened. Pass sugar 
with it. 



31 



CHAPTER III. 

SOUPS 

Soup Stock. 

The correct proportion of meat, bones and fat is essen- 
tial for the best stock, but very good stock can be made and 
kept constantly on hand by adding from time to time trim- 
mings from roasts, bones, etc., boiled with a small quantity 
of water and strained. No one realizes what a help a stock 
pot is until it is established in the house. Use a stone jar with 
a piece of cheese cloth for a cover. Keep in a cool place, reheat 
occasionally, and it will not spoil. 

In making stock, use Y$ meat and y z bone and fat. The 
bone furnishes the gelatin which causes good stock to jelly, 
part of the fat is absorbed, the surplus will rise to the top when 
cold, and must be removed. The best meat for stock is the 
neck or sticking piece, with a marrow bone well cracked. Cut 
meat into small pieces, the more surface exposed to the heat, 
the more juice will be extracted. Cover with cold water, add 
salt to draw out juices, heat slowly and simmer for two hours. 
Now add, for three quarts liquid, half a cup each carrots, 
turnips, onion, and celery cut into small bits, four cloves, 
]A. bay leaf and a bunch of soup herbs, and simmer for one hour 
longer. Strain and cool quickly. Before using remove fat 
from top of jar. Do not skim the soup while cooking unless 
a perfectly clear stock is desired. The scum which rises to 
the top is albumen which is the chief nutriment in the soup. 

To Clarify Stock. 

For bouillon, a clear stock is essential. To each quart of 
stock, allow the shell and white of one egg. Beat egg slightly, 
crush shell, and add to stock. Stir constantly until boiling 
point is reached. Boil two minutes, simmer twenty minutes, 
and strain through jelly bag or two thicknesses cheese cloth 
in a strainer. 

To Bind Soup. 

Purees and cream soups require binding, to hold together 
the liquids and solids. This is done by adding butter and 



32 WHATANDHOW 



flour rubbed together until smooth. One tablespoon of each is 
sufficient to bind the quantities given in these recipes. 

How to Use Soup Meat. 

Save meat from which your stock has been made, all of 
the nourishment has not been extracted by boiling; indeed, 
practically none of it. The flavor can be restored. After re- 
moving gristle and fat, put it twice through the meat chopper. 

In a sauce pan, melt 1 tablespoon of butter, add 1 table- 
spoon of flour and rub smooth. Stir in 2 cups milk and sea- 
son with salt and pepper. Cook 5 minutes, stirring constantly, 
then add }4 cup soft bread crumbs. Remove from fire, add 
meat, of which there should be 2 cups, the yolks of 3 eggs, 
1 tablespoon minced piarsley, and last, the whipped whites 
of 3 eggs, folded in. Turn into a buttered pudding dish and 
bake in a slow oven about half an hour. 

Saving for Soup Stock. 

There is nothing too trivial to save for soup. All scraps 
of meat are available, as are bones which should be broken 
up if possible, to secure the gelatin from them. Aside from 
meat and bones for stock, small quantities of vegetables, gravy 
or sauces may be used in combination. Two examples are 
given below. 

A Dinner Soup. 

Two cups stock, which should be a thick jelly, 1 cup stewed 
tomato, rubbed through sieve, }4 cup sliced mushrooms, left 
after making cream of mushroom soup. Salt and pepper. 

A Luncheon Soup. 

2 cups stock Celery tops and soup herbs 

}4 cup peas .K cup stewed tomatoes, rubbed 

}4 cup boiled rice through a sieve 

Salt and pepper 

As all ingredients have been previously cooked, this soup 
needs only to simmer for 20 minutes. Remove herbs before 
serving. 



SOUPS 33 

SOUPS WITH STOCK. 
Vegetable Soup. 

1 quart soup stock 3 large onions sliced 

1 can tomatoes \i cup each, carrot , turnip and celery, 

1 cup sweet potatoes, cut into small diced 

cubes 1 cup chopped cabbage 

2 cups white potatoes cut small 1 bunch soup herbs and celery tops 

Boil the vegetables together until tender, add to stock 
and simmer ten minutes. Unless the tomatoes have plenty 
of juice, it will be necessary to add water, and if they are acid, 
which they are likely to be in winter, heat them, stir in a pinch 
of soda and then add the vegetables. 

Consomme. 
Consomme must be a clear amber color, and well sea- 
soned. To make perfectly clear, follow directions given for 
clarifying stock, fold a towel and lay it in a colander over a 
bowl. Pour the soup through this, letting it run through 
without squeezing it. If not salt enough, add salt, and a little 
kitchen bouquet. Lemon juice adds to flavor. 

Quick Consomme. 
Consomme may be made in an emergency, with beef 
extract, seasoned well with salt, pepper, kitchen bouquet and 
lemon juice. This saves much trouble and time, and if judi- 
ciously seasoned, is quite as good as though made with stock. 

Brown Soup. 

3 lbs . lean beef, cut into pieces 3 onions, sliced 

3 quarts water 

Boil beef and water for one hour. Fry onions in good 
dripping until soft and light brown in color. Add to the soup, 
with a teaspoon of ground cloves, ]4. teaspoon pepper, % tea- 
spoon mace, a pinch of allspice, a bunch of celery tops and a 
bunch of soup herbs. Cook slowly for two hours longer, or 
until the meat has boiled to pieces. Strain through wire sieve 
and return to fire. Add salt to taste, yi teaspoon Worcester- 
shire sauce and 1 tablespoon lemon juice. 



34 WHAT AND HOW 



Calf's Head Soup. 

1 large calf's head, well cleaned 4 pig's feet, well washed 

Lay the head and feet in a large soup pot and cover with 
4 quarts water. Bring to the boil quickly and simmer for 
three hours, or until the meat will slip easily from the bones. 
Remove the head, allowing the feet to continue cooking. Fill 
a teacup with selected portions of fatty meat which lie on 
the top of the head and the cheeks; set aside to cool. Re- 
move the brains to a saucer and cool. Chop rest of the meat 
and the tongue very fine (it may be put through a meat chopper, 
using the second cutter), season with salt, pepper, powdered 
marjoram and thyme, 1 teaspoon each of cloves and mace, 
^ teaspoon of allspice and a grated nutmeg. Return to the 
soup pot and cook until meat falls from bones of the pig's 
feet. Remove bones and allow the gelatinous meat to re- 
main. Boil all together, closely covered, for two hours longer, 
remove from the fire and set aside until the next day. An 
hour before needed, heat thoroughly and strain. Turn out 
the meat from the tea cup, cut into squares, and add to the 
soup. 

Make force meat balls as follows: Rub yolks 5 hard 
boiled eggs to a smooth paste, adding gradually to moisten 
the brains, a teaspoon butter, and a little salt. Add 2 eggs 
beaten light. With floured hands, make into small balls, and 
cook in the soup five minutes. Bind with 1 tablespoon but- 
ter melted in sauce pan and browned and 1 tablespoon flour 
added gradually to keep the brown color. If too light col- 
ored, use kitchen bouquet. After binding, allow it to boil 
two minutes, add the juice of one lemon. Do not allow it to 
cook more than half an hour the second day. Have the blocks 
of meat and the force meat balls ready before the second heat- 
ing. Marion Harland adds to this recipe, which is hers, this 
paragraph : 

"This has been called 'the king of soups,' and is really 
more delicious than the real turtle soup of which it is an imi- 
tation; it is hoped no one will be afraid to undertake its pre- 
paration on account of the apparently tedious modes I have 
described. If directions be closely followed, the result is sure 



SOUPS 35 



to l>c satisfactory and the task is much less troublesome than 
it appears to be." Force meat halls are not a necessity, but an 
addition to this soup. 

Chicken Soup I. 

Use an old fowl rather than a young chicken. It has 
more flavor and has the additional advantage of being cheaper 
in price. Joint and boil slowly but steadily in enough water 
to cover it, until meat leaves the bones. Add 12 cloves to 
the water while boiling. Strain, and set aside until next day. 
Remove all fat from stock, using blotting paper if necessary 
to secure every particle of it. 

Heat stock, add 2 cups cream or milk, thicken slightly 
and season with salt and pepper. Put into the tureen the 
yolk of one egg and pour soup over it slowly at first, beating 
well to prevent curdling. Do not throw away the chicken. 
See directions for using soup meat (Page 32). 

Chicken Soup II. 

1 old fowl 3 quarts cold water 

1 knuckle of veal 1 bunch soup herbs 

Cut meat from knuckle, joint the chicken, put meat, 
bones and chicken into large kettle with 3 quarts cold water, 
heat slowly to boiling and simmer for 4 hours. Season with 
salt and pepper, add 1 large onibn cut in small pieces and 
cook 1 hour longer. Strain, cool, and remove fat. To three 
cups of this stock, add 1 tablespoon butter rubbed smooth 
with 2 tablespoons flour, and just before serving add yolks 
2 eggs well beaten and 1 cup milk or cream. When adding 
thickening where there is more flour than butter, pour some 
of the hot liquid on to the paste before adding to the soup. 

Gumbo. 

1 fowl (old chicken) 1 tablespoon butter 

2 onions, sliced 1 pint corn, scraped from cob 
]/2 lb. lean ham 1 pint tomatoes 

2 quarts cold water % green pepper, chopped 

Salt and pepper 2 doz. okra pods 



36 WHATANDHOW 



Joint the fowl and fry on both sides to close the pores, 
not over 5 minutes. Remove chicken to soup kettle, and fry 
the onions in the same fat in which the chicken was seared. 
When a golden brown, put into the kettle with the chicken 
and add the dold water; bring slowly to the boil and simmer 
2 hours. Add okra, sliced, the chopped pepper and tomatoes, 
peeled and cut into pieces. Continue the simmering until 
chicken is tender. Remove the larger bones, add corn, but- 
ter, salt and pepper to taste. If not quite thick (and the okras 
should have thickened it), roll the butter in flour before add- 
ing it to the gumbo. After adding corn, cook 5 minutes. 
Serve with a dish of boiled rice, and one of stewed or scal- 
loped onions. 

Oyster Soup. 

1 quart oysters, chopped Sprig of parsley 

4 cups milk 2 tablespoons butter 

1 slice onion 2 tablespoons flour 

2 blades mace Salt and pepper 

Yolks 2 eggs 

Strain oyster liquor, after heating it, through a double 
thickness cheese cloth. Wash and chop oysters; heat them 
in the liquor, bringing slowly to boiling point. Simmer 20 
minutes. Strain through the cheese cloth again, squeezing out 
all of the juice. Scald milk, with onion, parsley and mace, 
remove seasonings, add to oyster liquor, and re-heat. Add 
butter and flour rubbed together, season with salt and pepper. 
When ready to serve, pour gradually into tureen over the 
eggs slightly beaten, beating all the time. Serve very hot. 

Clam Soup I. 

1 quart clams 2 tablespoons butter 

4 cups milk 2 tablespoons flour 

1 slice onion Pepper and salt 

Yolks 2 eggs 

Put clams through meat chopper, after picking over care- 
fully to remove pieces of shell, and washing well. Scald 1 
cup water, add chopped clams and simmer 5 minutes. Heat 
milk and onion, cook 5 minutes. Remove onion, add clams 
to milk, bind with flour and butter, add salt and pepper; cook 



SOUPS 37 



5 minutes and pour into tureen over slightly beaten egg yolks. 
Clams may be strained out if desired. 

Clam Soup II. 

50 clams 1 cup milk 

1 quart water 2 eggs, well beaten 

2 tablespoons butter Pepper and salt 

4 slices toast 

Pick over, wash, and mince clams as directed in preced- 
ing recipe. Heat and strain liquor from clams. Put liquor, 
clams and water into sauce pan and simmer \}4 hours. Do 
not boil, simmer gently. By this time the clams should be 
so well cooked that the mixture is a thick broth. Season 
with salt, pepper and butter, and pour into tureen, over the 
toast. Have ready the, milk, scalding hot, pour it over the 
egg slowly, beating hard, and add to the soup just before it 
goes into the tureen, but after it has been removed from the 
fire. —Marion Harland. 

Oyster Bisque. 

1 quart oysters Bunch celery tops 

2 cups oyster liquor 2 sprigs parsley 

% onion \% cups fresh bread crumbs 

4 cups milk 1 tablespoon flour 

1 tablespoon butter Salt and pepper 

Drain oysters and wash. Heat liquor and strain, add- 
ing enough water to make 2 cups. Chop oysters and cook 
for J^: hour with the liquor, onion, celery, parsley, salt | and 
pepper. Add bread crumbs and rub all together through wire 
sieve. Add milk, scalded, and bind with the butter and flour. 
If necessary, add more salt and pepper. 

Clam Bisque. 

Make according to recipe for oyster bisque. 

Clam and Tomato Bisque. 

Make as oyster bisque, using 1 cup stewed and strained 
tomatoes, omitting 2 cups of the milk. 



38 WHATANDHOW 



Lobster Bisque. 

To the meat from a 3 pound lobster, or its equivalent in 
canned lobster, allow 2 pints veal stock; boil together 20 min- 
utes and drain. Selecting the most tender portions, cut into 
dice and reserve. Chop the remainder very fine, add to liquid, 
and rub through sieve. Add 1 cup cream and return to fire; 
when ready to boil, bind with % cup butter and yi cup flour 
rubbed together, and season with salt and pepper. Add diced 
meat, and coral, if any is found in the lobster; rub it through 
a sieve. 

Grab Bisque. 

Follow directions for lobster bisque. 

Clam Chowder I. 

1 quart clams 1 cup clam juice 

2 onions 3 cups water and tomato juice 
5 cloves 5 tomatoes, or >2 can 

2 tablespoons carrots diced Salt and pepper 

Yz bay leaf 

Drain clams, wash and pick over carefully to remove 
pieces of shell likely to be attached. Bring clam juice to the 
boiling point, strain through double cheese cloth, add to the 
water and juice from tomatoes, with carrots and spices. Put 
clams and onions through meat chopper, cut tomatoes into small 
pieces and pour over the juices. Boil all together until carrots 
are tender— about 20 minutes. Season well with salt and 
pepper. Remove bay leaf and cloves before serving. 

Clam Chowder II. 

1 quart clams 

Drain clams, wash well and remove small pieces of shell 
likely to be attached to them. Put liquor on the stove, bring 
to the boil and strain through double cheese cloth. Put the 
clams and 1 onion through meat chopper and cook in the liquor 
15 minutes. Have ready 2 cups potatoes cut into dice and boiled 
untii tender but not broken. Add these to the clams with 2 
cups water. Season with salt and pepper, add 1 quart of milk, 
1 cup crushed crackers and thicken with flour and butter rubbed 



SOUPS 39 



together, and add more salt and pepper if necessary. Do not 
add too much thickening; the crackers when well swelled in 
the chowder sometimes are sufficient without the flour, in which 
case stir in 1 tablespoon butter. Heat the crackers before 
crushing; stale crackers given an unpleasant flavor. 

Black Bean Soup. 

Soak 2 cups black beans over night. Drain, add 2 quarts 
cold water, 1 onion sliced and fried for five minutes in }4 
tablespoon bacon or ham drippings, and 2 stalks celery cut 
into pieces. Simmer 4 hours, or until beans are soft, adding 
water as it boils away. Rub through a colander, reheat to 
boiling point, and add 1 teaspoon salt, pepper and a dash 
of cayenne. Bind with 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon 
flour cooked together. Chop the whites of 2 hard boiled 
eggs and add when ready to serve. Pour into tureen over a 
lemon sliced very thin. Rub the hard boiled yolks through 
a fine sieve over the soup. This soup is better the second day 
than the first. 

Split Pea Soup. 

One cup dried split peas soaked over night. Drain, and 
simmer for 4 hours in 2}4 quarts water with }4 an onion. 
The water in which a ham has been boiled gives a fine flavor 
to the soup. Rub through a colander. Reheat, and thicken 
with \]4 tablespoon butter rubbed smooth with 1 tablespoon 
flour; season with salt and pepper. Add 1 pint hot milk and 
serve. 

A Summer Soup. 

1 quart tomatoes measured after 1 pint chopped cabbage 

peeling and cutting up 2 cups white potatoes, diced 

4 large onions, sliced 1 cup sweet potatoes, diced 

6 large ears of corn, cut from cob 1 quart okra, sliced 
4 quarts water 

Boil all together for 2 hours, or until thick; add 2 table- 
spoons chopped parsley, and season with salt and pepper. 

This soup may be strained if desired, in which case color 
with kitchen bouquet. Serve the vegetables separately. If 



40 WHATANDHOW 



okra is not used, dumplings may be dropped in twenty minutes 
before serving. 

Dumplings for Soups and Stews. 

3 cups flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 

2 eggs Milk for stiff batter 

Salt 

Sift baking powder, flour and salt. Beat eggs, add part of 
the milk and stir into the flour. Add as much more milk as is 
necessary to enable you to drop them from a spoon into the 
soup. Cover quickly and cook 20 minutes. 

Cream Soups 

Most nourishing of all soups, on account of the milk 
used, these cannot be too highly recommended for use at the 
mid-day meal, or family dinner. Served with bread and butter 
at luncheon they provide a perfect meal, and for use in the 
convalescent's diet they are unequalled. Patients to whom 
milk is distasteful, will take it in this form, and parents will 
do well to make constant use of these cream soups, as they 
provide proper food conditions for a growing child who needs 
for his best physical as well as mental development a careful 
consideration of this question of diet. 

Marion Harland says that a curdled cream soup is a cul- 
inary solecism. Unless carefully prepared, the mixture of 
milk and the acids in most vegetables is likely to curdle; this 
may be avoided by the use of a pinch of soda before combin- 
ing. Do not combine until ready to serve, always put the 
vegetable mixture into the milk and not vice versa, and do 
not allow the milk to boil, which cannot occur in a double 
boiler. 

Cream of Tomato 

1 quart milk 2 cups tomatoes, cut small, or 
K onion >4 can tomatoes 

2 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon sugar 
2 tablespoons flour % bay leaf 

K teaspoon salt Pinch of soda 

Pepper 

Scald milk with onion, remove onion, and thicken milk 
with butter and flour rubbed together and cook in double 



SOUPS 41 



boiler 20 minutes, stirrmg until it is smooth. Simmer tomatoes 
and seasonings 20 minutes, rub through sieve and stir in the 
soda. Keep the two mixtures separate until ready to serve, 
then pour the milk into tureen, and add tomatoes. 

Cream of Pea Soup. 

2 cups peas 1 tablespoon butter 

1 quart milk \% tablespoons flour 

Salt and pepper. 

Boil the peas in small quantity of water, when tender 
drain, saving the water, which add to the milk (there should 
be 1 cup). Rub peas through a wire sieve to remove skins, add 
to milk and bind with the flour and butter rubbed together. 

Cream of Spinach. 

This makes a green soup, if not deep enough in color to 
look well, add a few drops green coloring extract. 

Boil yi peck spinach in 1 pint water until it is tender. 
If boiled without a cover, it will keep its bright green color. 
Drain, chop and rub through sieve. Scald 1 quart milk, 
thicken with 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon flour 
cooked together. The best way is to melt the butter in a 
sauce pan, add the flour, rub together with wire whisk, and 
add the milk. Cook two minutes, stirring constantly, add 
the spinach, which should be a soft green paste, and serve 
at once. Season with salt and pepper. Lettuce can be used 
instead of spinach. 

Potato Cream Soup. 

Scald 1 quart milk with 2 slices of onion. Remove onion, 
and stir into the milk 1 tablespoon butter rubbed smooth 
with same quantity of flour. Stir constantly until thick and 
smooth. Have ready six large potatoes boiled, mashed and 
beaten to a smooth creamy mass with 1 cup milk, seasoned 
with 1 teaspoon salt, and pinch of white pepper. Combine 
mixtures and add 1 heaping tablespoon of parsley chopped 
very fine. 



42 WHATANDHOW 



Kornlet Soup. 

One onion chopped fine, and cooked in 1 tablespoon but- 
ter five minutes. Add \}4 cups kornlet or crushed corn and 4 
cups water, simmer 20 minutes and rub through sieve. Add 1>^ 
tablespoons butter, rubbed to a smooth paste with 2 tablespoons 
flour, and stir until boiling. Have ready 2 cups milk heated; 
pour this into the soup with y£ cup cream, season with salt 
and pepper. 

Whip to a stiff froth, 1 cup cream, serve a spoonful of 
this, sprinkled with paprika, on each plate. This quantity 
will serve 10 people. 

Corn Soup. 

Take 6 large ears of corn. Split grains and scrape from the 
cobs. Break cobs in 3 or 4 pieces and boil }4 hour in enough 
water to cover, strain. There should be 2 cups of the water 
Add corn pulp and cook 20 minutes. Rub through a wire seive, 
add 2 cups milk and bind with 1 tablespoon flour rubbed smooth 
with 1 tablespoon butter. The pulp should go through the 
strainer. 

Cream of Mushroom. 

yi pound mushrooms, peeled and cut into pieces. Skin 
the stems and cut in very thin slices. Put 1 tablespoon but- 
ter into a sauce pan, add mushrooms and cover with a tight 
lid. Cook slowly to extract the juice. When mushrooms 
are tender, strain and press through a wire sieve as much of 
the mushroom as will go through. If there are any button 
mushrooms among them save these whole to serve with the 
soup, but cook them with the pieces to get as much juice as 
you can for the soup. 

Scald 1 cup cream with 2 slices of onion, remove onion 
and add mushroom juice. Return to fire, preferably in dou- 
ble boiler, and add about 2 cups milk. Do not lose the mush- 
room flavor by putting in too much milk. Bind with 1 table- 
spoon butter and 1 tablespoon flour cooked together until 
smooth, season with salt and pepper, add the button mush- 
rooms, or failing these, some of the small pieces, and serve a 



SOUPS 43 



spoonful of whipped cream on each plate or cup. A little 
sherry is an improvement. Save all the pieces that will not 
rub through— they are a fine addition to gravies or minces. 

Purees. 

Purees are made of vegetables cooked soft and rubbed 
through a sieve, and combined with thickened milk or stock. 
They are thicker than cream soups, containing a larger quan- 
tity of the vegetable. Leftovers are always available for purees. 

Puree of Cauliflower. 

Rub through a sieve, 2 cups cauliflower boiled and broken 
into pieces before measuring. Scald 1 quart milk with a slice 
of onion and a bunch of celery tops. Strain, or remove onion 
and celery. Thicken with \]4 tablespoons butter and same 
of flour rubbed together. Cook 10 minutes, stirring constantly. 
Add cauliflower, season with salt and pepper, and cook 
5 minutes longer. If desired, purees may be strained again 
before serving. 

Lima beans, peas, mushrooms, any cooked fish remnants, 
and chestnuts may be used for purees, following directions 
given above for cauliflower. 

Kornlet Chowder. 

1 tablespoon butter 4 green peppers, chopped 

4 onions, sliced 2 cups tomatoes 

1 can kornlet or crushed corn 

Brown onions in butter carefully to avoid burning, add 
other ingredients and enough water to cover. Season with 
salt and pepper. Cook over moderate fire for 1 hour, adding 
water when necessary. 



44 



CHAPTER IV 

FISH 

When a fish is perfectly fresh, the gills will be a bright 
red color and the flesh firm. Purchase from a reliable 
dealer, as stale fish is poisonous. If not sure of your dealer, 
it will be necessary for you to touch the fish before buying; if 
the flesh seems soft and flabby, have none of it. A sunken 
eye is another evidence that the fish has been a long time 
out of the water, and while it may not be spoiled or unfit 
for use, the flavor that is so pronounced in a fresh fish will 
be lacking. Cold storage and frozen fish are to be avoided, 
unless you have absolute confidence in the man who recom- 
mends them. There are some varieties not obtainable in 
our section of the country that necessarily come to us frozen, 
notably smelts, but these are exceptions, and being cold weather 
fish are perfectly safe to use. In our own waters, the king is the 
shad, in season from the latter part of April until June 10, 
when the law protects him. The Southern shad come earlier, 
the Chesapeake just before, but there is nothing comparable 
to the Delaware shad to those of us living on the Delaware 
River. This is only because the fish comes to us fresh caught 
each day, and proves my assertion made above, that the flavor 
of a fish just out of the water is far different from that of a 
fish two or three days out. 

Next to the shad comes our bay trout, suitable for fry- 
ing, planking or boiling. These come in several sizes; use 
the small ones to fry, the larger for boiling, etc. Herring, perch, 
butter fish, porgies, etc., are "near by" fish, and reach us 
fresh, while for cod, halibut, mackerel and haddock we de- 
pend upon waters not so close at hand. Blue fish is best at 
the seashore where it is caught and cooked the same day, 
but it is almost as good in our markets; it makes a good boiling 
fish, as does also sheepshead. 

Halibut seems expensive, but in reality is not, as there is 
no waste, practically, in a slice of it. It is a very dry fish, 
unsuitable for frying, unless served with a sauce, but pre- 
pared according to recipes following later on, is unsurpassed. 



FISH 45 



Spanish mackerel is one of our best winter fish, more 
expensive than most of the others, but delicious when well 
broiled or planked. Sea bass is a fine boiling or baking fish, 
but is expensive for frying while the cheaper fish are as good 
for that purpose. 

Flounders are served in this country as sole. They are 
not the same fish as the English sole, being larger, coarser 
and of different flavor, but as we have not the real article on 
this side of the Atlantic, our hotel chefs and restaurateurs 
use it as sole. It is an admirable boiling fish, is unrivalled 
for fillets, and one of our most useful winter delicacies. 

Boiled Codfish. 

Have the fish cut in one piece weighing from 2 to 3 pounds. 
Wash, wrap in cheese cloth to prevent the scum from settling 
upon it, and also to make it convenient to lift from the water, 
plunge into boiling water deep enough to cover it, and cook 20 
minutes or until the flesh loosens from the bones. To the water, 
add salt to season the fish, and vinegar, 1 tablespoon to 1 pint 
water, to whiten the flesh. If vinegar is very strong, use y& 
quantity. Lemon juice may be used in place of vinegar if pre- 
ferred. When thoroughly cooked, remove to a hot platter and 
serve with Egg Sauce. Have the fish well drained so that there 
will be no water on platter. 

Halibut, salmon and any sliced fish should be boiled ac- 
cording to above recipe. 

Boiled Salt Cod. 

Take 1 pound of salt cod in one piece. Soak over night, 
wash, wrap in cheese cloth and boil for 25 minutes, cooking not 
too rapidly. A gentle boil is always to be preferred to a rapid 
boil. Drain and serve on slices of toast or one large slice cut 
lengthwise of a loaf. Cover with Maitre d'Hotel Sauce heated, 
or Sauce Pifyuante. 

Fish Boiled Whole. 

A fish kettle is expensive, and not likely to be found 
among the average kitchen furnishings. A most excellent 



46 WHATANDHOW 



substitute is found in a deep agate roasting pan, which 
should be kept for this purpose only. For convenience in 
removing fish from pan, use 2 strips cotton cloth about \yi inches 
wide and long enough to go under the fish and project on each 
side. By means of these, the fish may readily be transferred 
to its waiting platter. Consult time table, page 20, for length 
of time required to cook. See also Chapter on Fish Sauces. 

Baked Fish. 

Shad, bass, trout, haddock and blue fish are our best 
baking fish. They may be stuffed or not as preferred. The 
following recipe will be applicable to all: 

Baked Fish, Stuffed. 

When buying a fish to stuff and bake, it will be neces- 
sary to have it opened in front and not split up the back. 
Your fish dealer will always prepare the fish for you accord- 
ing to the way in which you desire it served, so do not fail 
to tell him, when you order, how it is to be cooked. A 4 pound 
fish is large enough for 6 people, and while a 3 pound fish might 
be too much for half as many, nothing smaller in size would 
be suitable for baking, and the remnants can be made most 
tempting for another meal. Some recipes for these dishes 
made from left-over fish will be found in Chapter XVI. 

After washing the fish thoroughly, rub it well with salt 
both inside and out, stuff it, using one of the recipes below, 
put into the pan recommended for boiling fish, and bake it 
in a hot oven. Grease the pan well with bacon drippings 
if you have it, brush the fish over with the same and dredge 
with flour. Use the muslin strips to lift out by, keeping enough 
liquid in the pan to keep them from burning. To obtain this 
liquid, melt % tablespoon dripping in 1 cup hot water, baste 
liberally with this every 10 minutes, using the fat in the pan 
after you have used the water. It will take the fish about 
1 hour to bake; the heat should be decreased in the oven after 
the^fish browns slightly. Any good fish sauce may be served with 
this,[preferably Sauce Piquante, Hollandaise or an Oyster Sauce. 
Serve white sauces with boiled fish, dark sauces with baked. 



FISH 47 



Fish Stuffing I. 

1 cup fresh bread crumbs, 2 tablespoons melted butter 

rubbed through colander 1 tablespoon chopped pickles 

1 teaspoon chopped onion Salt and pepper 

Mix and use for stuffing baked fish. 
Fish Stuffing II. 

1 egg, beaten 1 cup oysters, drained and chopped 

yi cup powdered cracker 1 tablespoon minced parsley 

Salt and pepper 

A tablespoon very finely chopped red sweet pepper is a 
great addition to this, the most delicious mixture for stuffing 
fish of which I have knowledge. If a moist stuffing is pre- 
ferred, use either cream or oyster liquor enough to make it 
quite moist. 

Baked Halibut I. 

4 lbs. halibut, in 1 piece 2 tomatoes, peeled and sliced, or 

yi cup fat salt pork, 1 cup canned tomatoes 

cut into pieces 1 small onion, sliced 

Cover the bottom of a pan, just large enough to hold the 
fish, with the pork, tomato and onion, in layers, the pork 
underneath. Sprinkle the fish on both sides, with salt and 
pepper, and lay it on the mixture. Dredge with flour, and 
pour over it a tablespoon melted butter. Add 1 cup boiling 
water, cover closely, and bake for 1 hour in a moderate oven. 
Serve with a sauce, made by rubbing the contents of the 
pan (after removing the fish) through a wire sieve, thicken- 
ing it if necessary, with a little butter and flour rubbed 
smooth. Add lemon juice and Worcestershire sauce, to sea- 
son. It depends upon the heat of the oven whether you have 
much or little sauce remaining in the pan, but if directions 
be carefully followed there will be a cup, at least, liquid re- 
maining, which will require 1 teaspoon each of butter and 
flour to bind together. If necessary, add a little water when 
you baste, which should be four times during baking. Do 
not allow the pork and vegetables to become dry, or the flavor 
of the fish will be spoiled. Serve, with sauce poured around 
it, and garnish the dish with parsley, lemon slices, or strips 
of red pepper. The recipe is applicable to any fish, either 
whole or sliced. 



48 WHATANDHOW 



Baked Halibut II. 

3 lbs. halibut in 1 piece 1 slice onion 

2 cups tomatoes 3 cloves 

1 cup water yi tablespoon sugar 

1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon flour 

Salt and pepper 

Make a sauce by simmering tomatoes, water, onion and 
seasoning for 15 minutes, rubbing through a sieve and bind- 
ing with the butter and flour. Cook 5 minutes. Lay the 
fish in a baking pan, pour half the sauce around it, and baste 
frequently with it. Cover the pan and bake }4 hour. Serve 
on a hot platter, pour the remainder of the sauce around 
it anid garnish the dish with parsley or cress. 

Planked Shad. 

Planks for this purpose are to be found in the stores, 
but a less expensive way is to have one made of chestnut or 
oak, of a size to correspond with the size of your oven. It 
should be two inches thick, with a groove cut around it, about 
one inch from the edge; this catches the juices and prevents 
overflow. Unless your oven is very small, a plank 20 inches 
long and 14 inches wide should fit in it, and this holds a fairly 
large fish. Before laying the fish on it, heat the plank slightly, 
then grease it well with any good dripping and heat very hot. 
Now place the fish on it, skin side down, and put into a hot 
oven. When the fish begins to heat, brush over with butter, 
sprinkle with salt and pepper, return to oven and bake for 
^2 hour, or until fish is done and well browned. To serve, 
it is necessary to have a tin carrier made with handles, slip 
the plank upon this, and send to the table. Garnish the plank 
with green and dot with tiny red radishes, or arrange a border 
of well mashed and seasoned potatoes, allowing them to brown 
while the fish is finishing cooking. Brush potatoes with butter. 
With a pastry bag, the potatoes may be made into roses. Any 
large fish may be planked as above. 

Do not wash the plank, rub it clean with salt, and put 
away, wrapped in paper. When the plank becomes well 
charred, it has increased in value, and the older and blacker 
it is the better the flavor of the fish. 



FISH 49 



Shad Roe. 

may be cooked on the plank with the fish if desired, or if used 
for another meal, fried, baked, creamed or in croquettes. See 
Chapter XVI on Luncheon and Supper. 

Broiled Shad. 

Shad may be broiled if preferred, but not fried, as the 
fish is very oily, and therefore not adapted to the frying pan. 

Fried Fish. 

The smaller fish are best fried. The larger ones are 
filleted and fried. Watch your dealer fillet a flounder. It 
will be quite easy to do, if necessary, after once seeing it 
done, and is an accomplishment that should be acquired. 

To fry small fish, or pan fish, as they are called, wipe 
dry (of course, they come to you ready to cook), roll in flour 
or corn meal, which has been salted, set on the ice or in a cold 
place for an hour, and fry in hot fat until a golden brown. 
If not convenient to use deep fat, they must be turned when 
cooked on one side. 

Fried Fish Cutlets. 

Cut trout or any slender fish, into slices y& inch thick. 
Marinate for 1 hour. (See Chapter I.) Dredge both sides 
with salt and flour, and fry in deep fat until a golden brown. 
(See rules for deep fat frying.) Serve on a mat of tissue paper, 
fringed; it not only looks well but absorbs the fat. Let the 
mat heat with the platter. 

Fried Smelts 

Assuming that your dealer sends the fish home already 
cleaned, I have given no directions for doing it. If, how- 
ever, he should decline to clean the smelts, ask him to show 
you how to do it; it is easily done when you once see it, but 
not so easily done from a description of the process. But, 
make the effort to have it done before the fish are sent home. 
Crumb, and fry in deep fat, remembering not to have the fat 



50 WHATANDHOW 



too hot, in which case they would be too crisp before they 
could cook through. Read carefully directions for frying. 
Serve with Sauce Tartare, sections of lemon, or Parsley Butter. 

Stuffed Smelts. 

For this select large fish and all of the same size. For 
12 of these, make a stuffing as follows: Cook yi tablespoon 
chopped onion in ]4 tablespoon butter, for 5 minutes. Do 
not allow the onion to brown. Chop 6 oysters, discarding 
the hard portion, 3 large mushrooms, or the equivalent in 
canned stems and ends, and add to butter. Stir in 1 teaspoon 
flour and mix. Add 2 tablespoons milk and cook 3 minutes. 
Add 1 teaspoon chopped parsley. Wipe the smelts dry, stuff, 
sprinkle with salt and pepper, and brush over with lemon 
juice. Bake in an enameled pie plate or a flat dish. These 
may also be covered with buttered crumbs if desired. It 
adds to the appearance as well as to the delicacy of the dish. 
Serve with Sauce Tartare, sections of lemon, or Parsley Butter. 

Soft Shell Crabs. 

The crabs will probably be sent you from the fish 
store already cleaned; if not, fold back the wings found on 
each side of the back shell, and remove the spongy substance 
found underneath them; then trim off the apron at the lower 
part of under shell. Wash crabs, crumb, egg and crumb, 
fry in deep fat and drain on soft paper. Or they may be 
fried in small quantity of dripping without crumbing. 
Season the egg in which they are dipped, well with salt and 
pepper, or sprinkle it upon the crab. If you must clean them 
yourself, dip for a moment into boiling water to kill them. 
Like the broiled lobster, this is supposed to injure the flavor. 
It is however, more humane. 

Fillets of Flounder. 

Cut fillets into slices, 3 inches long, 2 inches wide; roll 
up and fasten with a wooden toothpick. Dip each rolled 
fillet into beaten egg and fine crumbs, set aside in a cold 



F IS H 51 



place for one hour, and fry in deep fat. Serve with Sauce 
Tartare. 

These fillets are improved by marinating, though it is 
not necessary. 

Fried Fillets of Fish. 

Almost any large or medium sized fish is readily filleted 
(which removes the bones), and may be fried according to 
directions already given for frying fish. Of course, this does 
not apply to bony fish, such as shad or bass, where the small 
bones are so numerous and well distributed through the 
flesh. Flounder fillets are very good, fried whole, and served 
with a fish sauce. Lay 1 fillet on top of the other to serve. 
It gives the appearance of a whole fish. 

Halibut Creole. 

2 lbs. halibut 1 slice of onion 

2 cups tomatoes 3 cloves 

1 cup water yi tablespoon sugar 

Boil tomatoes, water and seasoning for twenty minutes, 
add \% tablespoons butter, \j4 tablespoons flour, rubbed 
smooth together, add j4 teaspoon salt, and dash of pepper; 
rub through a sieve. Put fish into a greased baking pan, 
and pour around it half of the sauce, bake thirty-five minutes, 
basting often, with the sauce. Remove to hot platter, lay 
on top of fish strips of pimento, pour around it the rest of the 
sauce, and garnish with parsley. 

Moulded Fish. 

Two pounds fresh cod or halibut, chopped fine; you need 
\}4 cups. With a wooden pestle, pound in a chopping bowl, 
adding gradually the whites of % eggs slightly beaten, add 
1*4 cups cream, salt and pepper to taste. Turn into a well 
buttered fish mould, cover with buttered paper, set in a pan 
of hot water and bake until firm, about a half hour. The 
water in pan should be boiling, when mould is put in, but 
should not be allowed to boil while baking. Turn out on hot 
platter, and serve with a fish sauce. 



52 WHAT AND HOW 



Salmon Loaf. 

1 can salmon K cup bread crumbs 

2 eggs 3 tablespoons butter 

Beat eggs, add crumbs and then salmon and butter 
rubbed smooth together. Mix thoroughly, season with salt 
and pepper, and 1 tablespoon parsley minced. Put into but- 
tered mould, cover with paper, place in pan of boiling water, 
and steam in oven for 1 hour. Serve turned out on platter, 
and pour over it, 

Sauce. 

Mix 1 teaspoon corn starch smooth with a little cold 
water, stir into 1 cup boiling hot milk, add liquor from sal- 
mon, 1 tablespoon butter, and salt and pepper. Stir until 
thick, cooking two minutes. Beat in one egg and cook one 
minute longer. Keep hot in double boiler without cooking 
until ready to serve. 

Codfish Balls. 

Two cups shredded codfish, washed thoroughly and 
squeezed dry, 1 cup mashed potato, }4 cup White Sauce, with 
an egg beaten in. Season with salt and pepper. When well 
mixed, make into balls, egg and crumb, and fry in deep fat. 

Creamed Codfish. 

Make 1 cup of White Sauce; wash and drain dry, 1 cup 
shredded codfish, add to the white sauce, and if too thick 
add a little cream, season with salt and pepper, and serve on 
toast. 

Codfish Souffle. 

Wash 1 cup shredded codfish in several waters. It is 
much better to wash out all- the salt in which it is preserved, 
and add seasoning afterward. Squeeze out the water, have 
it as dry as possible. Mix with 1 cup potato mashed and 
free from lumps. Add 1 cup White Sauce and beat until 
light. Season with salt and pepper. Put into buttered bake 
dish, brush over with melted butter, and brown in oven. 
The mixture may be served in potato shells or ramekins for 
individual service. 



FISH 53 



Beauregard Cod. 

To 1 pound fresh cod boiled allow 2 cups White Sauce. 
Let the fish be very cold, flake it and add to the sauce. Season 
with salt and pepper, and cook all together 5 minutes. Boil 3 
eggs for 20 minutes and cool in cold water. Remove shells, 
chop whites very fine with a silver knife", and rub the yolks 
through a wire sieve. Pour the hot fish mixture over slices 
of buttered toast, sprinkle with the powdered yolks, and ar- 
range the chopped whites in little mounds over the entire sur- 
face. A good way to use remnants of boiled fish, cod, haddock 
or halibut, and allow sauce according to the amount of fish. 

Fish Scallop. 

1 cup cold cooked fish Salt and pepper 

1 cup cold cooked macaroni 1 teaspoon minced parsley 

1 teaspoon onion juice 1 cup White Sauce 

14. cup tomatoes, stewed and 
strained 

Cut macaroni into small bits (here you will find the kitchen 
scissors useful) add tomatoes to the White Sauce and heat 
to boiling point. Add seasoning and fish, turn into buttered 
baking dish, cover with buttered crumbs and bake covered 
>2 hour, uncover and brown. 



Creamed Codfish in Ramekins. 

Wash and drain dry a box of shredded codfish. Mix with 
1 cup White Sauce and put into buttered ramekins. Drop an 
egg on each one, sprinkle with buttered crumbs and cook in 
oven long enough to set the egg. Season the sauce and the 
egg well with salt and pepper. 



Boiled Salmon, Egg Sauce. 

1 can salmon steak, boiled 15 1 cup Egg Sauce 

minutes, in the can 

After boiling, open can, drain off liquid and turn fish out 
on a hot platter. Pour over it the egg sauce and garnish with 
parsley sprigs, or cress. 



54 WHATANDHOW 



Egg Sauce. 

To one cup White Sauce, add >^ teaspoon kitchen bou- 
quet and yi teaspoon Worcestershire sauce. Chop a hard 
boiled egg in small pieces and stir into sauce. Season with 
salt and pepper. 

Salmon Cutlets. 

1 can salmon Mashed potatoes 

Salt and pepper 

Mix salmon and potato in equal quantities; season with 
salt and pepper and shape into cutlets. (See Chapter I.) Egg 
and crumb, chill and fry as croquettes. 

Creamed Fish Flakes. 

Any remants of cooked fish may be flaked and heated in 
white sauce. Do not allow it to cook after thoroughly heated. 

Salt Mackerel. 

Soak fish over night. In the morning wash and put over 
the fire in hot water to cover. Let it simmer gently until 
tender, which will be in about half hour. Add to the water 
^ tablespoon vinegar. It will hasten the tendering process. 
Drain, serve on a hot platter seasoned with butter, salt (very 
little) and pepper. Cut >2 lemon in 4 pieces and serve a piece 
on each plate. 

Creamed Salt Mackerel. 

Flake the pieces of left over boiled mackerel, mix with 
White Sauce, and serve hot on slices of buttered toast. Sprinkle 
with minced parsley. 

Finnan Haddie. 

Finnan haddie is smoked haddock with a Scotch name. 
Wash the fish thoroughly, soak for an hour in cold water, 
put over the fire in enough boiling water to cover, and cook 
for 5 minutes. Drain, wipe dry, rub well with butter and 
lemon juice, lay on a flat baking dish and bake in the hottest 
part of the oven for fifteen minutes. If you have a gas range, 
put it under the oven lights until it is crisp and brown. 



FISH 55 



Smoked Salmon. 

may be treated as Finnan Haddie, simmering it for 20 min- 
utes before putting into the oven. Sprinkle with minced 
parsley and garnish with slices of lemon. 

Smoked White Fish. 

Wash the fish thoroughly, using a brush. Simmer in 
water to cover, until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain, and 
serve covered with Egg Sauce. 

Smoked Shad. 

Prepare and serve according to preceding recipe. There 
is no better luncheon for a cold winter day, than these 
smoked fish, served with baked potatoes. 



SHELL FISH. 

Oyster Stew. 

Drain oysters and wash thoroughly. Melt 2 tablespoons 
butter in sauce pan. When bubbling, rub in 1 tablespoon 
flour, and when smooth 2 cups milk. Heat liquor and strain 
through double thickness of cheese cloth. Cook oysters in 
this until they ruffle. Add the sauce to the oysters and cook 
all together until oysters are done, when stir in another table- 
spoon of butter and season with salt and pepper. Avoid 
toughening oysters through cooking too long. This recipe 
is for 1 quart oysters. 

Creamed Oysters. 

1 quart oysters 3 cups Thick White Sauce 

Wash and drain the oysters. Heat them in a sauce pan, 
to draw out the liquor which would make the sauce thin. 
Drain and drop into the sauce and finish cooking. Season 
with salt, pepper and 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, and 
color with kitchen bouquet. The sauce should be thick and 
cream color. 



56 WHATANDHOW 



Oyster Croustade. 

Wash 1 quart oysters, and drain. In a double boiler 
heat 1 pint of milk, thicken with 1 tablespoon corn starch 
rubbed to a smooth paste with a little cold milk. Stir until 
smooth and let it cook ten minutes, stirring occasionally. 
Rub through a colander 1>£ cups bread crumbs, and brown 
in a hot pan with 1 tablespoon butter. Put a layer of 
crumbs in the bottom of a buttered bake dish, then a layer 
of oysters sprinkled with salt and pepper. Season sauce with 
salt and a little lemon juice. Put a layer of sauce over oysters, 
and repeat until dish is full, having top layer of crumbs. Bake 
in hot oven. In choosing a baking pan for this croustade, select 
one not too deep— two layers or at most three of oysters will 
make the best croustade. 

Scalloped Oysters. 

Drain and wash 1 quart oysters. Butter a shallow bak- 
ing dish. Cover the bottom of it with fine bread crumbs 
seasoned with salt and pepper, and dotted with butter. Put 
upon this a layer of oysters, sprinkle with salt and pepper. 
Cover with the crumbs and butter, add another layer of oys- 
ters seasoned as before. Mix two tablespoons oyster liquor, 
heated and strained through double cheese cloth, with 2 table- 
spoons of milk and pour over oysters. Cover with buttered 
bread crumbs, and bake about 20 minutes in hot oven; covered 
closely for 15 minutes and uncovered to brown for 5 minutes. 

Roast Oysters. 

These are a rare treat when properly prepared; avoid 
cooking too long. Have required number of oysters sent 
home in the shell. Scrub thoroughly and let stand until dry. 
Have oven very hot, also top of stove. It will not be pos- 
sible to keep the supply equal to the demand without using 
both. Place a tin sheet over the stove and lay oysters upon 
it. Fill both racks in oven. When shells open, the oysters 
are done. To serve, put at each plate, a folded newspaper, 
on top of this a coarse towel. This is to open the shells upon. 
Have a bucket between every two persons to hold empty 



FISH 57 



shells. Furnish eacli person with a very hot plate and an 
oyster opener, which can be procured at any hardware store. 
Have on the table, plenty of butter, pepper and salt, horse 
radish and pickles, together with crackers or sandwiches. Serve 
also baked potatoes or potato salad, and coffee. Bring in 
oysters a dish full at a time, serving them frequently and very 
hot. 

Broiled Oysters. 

Oysters m,ay be pan broiled, a method much less trouble- 
some than with a broiler over the fire, and with results 
quite as satisfactory. Wash, drain and wipe dry every oyster. 
This may be easily done by spreading out on a towel 
after draining as dry as possible in a colander. Spread an- 
other towel over them and pat until dry. Have pan very 
hot, and the bottom of it just covered with melted butter. 
Put oysters in one at a time as for frying — until as many 
as the pan will hold in one layer are in. When brown on 
one side, turn and brown on other. Remove from pan as 
soon as done, and put into hot dish. Have sauce ready pre- 
pared as follows: For 1 quart oysters, melt 1 tablespoon but- 
ter and let it brown, but not burn. Rub in 1 tablespoon flour, 
a little at a time to let it brown in the butter. Stir in 1 cup 
of milk and oyster liquor in equal parts, the liquor to be 
strained first through double cheese cloth. Cook until per- 
fectly smooth, add % teaspoon kitchen bouquet, % teaspoon 
Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. Serve oysters on rounds 
of toast with sauce poured over them. 

Panned Oysters. 

Do not try to pan too many oysters at once. For 1 
quart allow 1 tablespoon butter, heat it, turn in the oysters, 
sprinkle well with salt and pepper, and stir until they curl. 
They are done when they cease to feel slimy. Too much 
cooking toughens them. Use a shallow pan, to avoid hav- 
ing the oysters too deep; when there are too many in a pan 
some of them will be under done while the rest will be 
tough. Cook in two lots if more than 1 quart is desired. 



58 WHAT AND HOW 



Oyster Patties. 

Make patties according to recipe given for Puff 
Paste. For the filling, make a rich white sauce (adding 
more butter), drain the oysters, heat, drain again and drop 
into the sauce. Cook until they curl or ruffle, season well 
with salt, a dash of cayenne and a few drops onion juice. Allow 
4 or 5 oysters to each patty. Patties can be purchased for 
comparatively little if not convenient to make them at home, 
when the oysters may be cooked and placed in them. 

Oyster Cocktails. 

Allow 5 small oysters to each person. Mix together 1 
tablespoon tomato catsup, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, yi table- 
spoon grated horse radish, 6 drops tobasco sauce, ]A. table- 
spoon vinegar, 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, % tea- 
spoon salt. Put on the ice for an hour and pour over the 
oysters arranged in cocktail glasses. 

Clam Cocktails. 

may be made by preceding recipe; if clams are large, cut 
into pieces, but if possible, procure Little Necks and serve 
them whole. 

Oysters and Clams. 

served raw must be icy cold served on the half shell with sec- 
tions of lemon. Or, on a bed of crushed ice, arrange the shells 
around a tiny cup containing cocktail mixture, into which 
the oysters or clams may be dipped. 

Fried Oysters. 

Select large plump oysters, wash and dry between 2 
towels, patting them until dry. Sprinkle with salt and pep- 
per, dip in flour, egg and crumb, and set in a cold place for 
at least an hour. Fry in fat deep enough to cover them, and 
tested according to rule for deep fat frying. Drain on soft 
paper and serve on tissue paper mat; garnish with parsley. 
Serve with pepper hash. 



FISH .59 



Clams. 

Clams are more economical and certainly they are cleaner, 
when yon open them yourself. This is easily accomplished. 
Follow directions for Steamed Clams, using as little water as 
possible. There must be enough to keep plenty of steam. Save 
all juice and the water in which they were steamed. If opened 
at home according to these directions you will not need to 
heat and strain the juice as directed in all clam recipes. 

Steamed Clams. 

Scrub shells through several waters, and put into a large 
kettle with enough boiling water to cover the bottom of it. 
Cover closely and let clams steam until shells begin to open. 
Serve at once. 

Scalloped Clams I. 

1 quart clams Salt and pepper 

1 cup White Sauce 1 cup buttered crumbs 

Wash clams and put through the meat chopper. Put on 
the stove and bring to boiling point; drain off superfluous 
liquor. Mix with White Sauce, season, and bake, covered 
with buttered crumbs, in ramekins or clam shells, 15 min- 
utes in a hot oven. 

Scalloped Clams II. 

Proceed as above, adding to the white sauce the beaten 
yolks of 2 eggs and ]/$ teaspoon lemon juice. 

Devilled Scallops. 

2 tablespoons butter 1 cup buttered crumbs 

1 qt. scallops, cut into pieces A pinch mustard 

Salt and paprika 

Wash and drain the scallops; heat to the boiling point. 
Drain and save the liquor. Rub the mustard into the butter, 
add seasonings and ^2 cup of the liquor. Mix with the scal- 
lops, put into buttered baking dish, cover with buttered 
crumbs and bake 20 minutes. If there is more than the re- 
quired ^ cup of the liquor, use it to baste with, at the end 
of the first 10 minutes. 



60 WHATANDHOW 



Fried Scallops. 

Scallops may be fried following directions for Fried Oysters, 
after washing and boiling them 5 minutes. Drain dry before 
egging and crumbing. 

To Open a Lobster. 

When buying a boiled lobster, straighten out the tail; 
if it springs back into place, the lobster was alive when 
boiled, which, of course, he should have been. The best 
way is to know your dealer and take his word for fish, lobsters, 
crabs, etc. 

Take off claws and separate tail from body. To remove 
meat in one piece from tail, cut the shell with a pair of scis- 
sors, unless shell is too hard, in which case, try the can opener. 
Remove the intestine from the centre of tail meat. Draw the 
body from the shell, holding latter in left hand. This process 
will leave the stomach or "lady" in the shell. Also the liver. 
On the sides of the body you will find the lungs, discard these. 
The unedible part of the lobster are the intestinal vein, the 
stomach and the lungs. Take all the meat from the bones in 
the body, breaking the latter in half to make it easier to get 
the meat. Break the claw shells with a hammer, but try to 
get the meat whole. Use small claws for garnishing. Much 
trouble is avoided by ordering the meat already picked, pro- 
vided you deal with a reliable man who will not send you stale 
lobster. However, the operation of opening a lobster is more 
simple than it sounds, and every one should know how, even 
though she may not care to do it. 

Lobster, Broiled Whole. 

I rather hesitate to describe the process of preparing the 
lobster for this dish, though we are told that it is positively 
painless to the victim. Personally, I decline to do it, failing 
to see that the flavor is injured by plunging the lobster into 
boiling water long enough to kill him. At least this method 
has this advantage; you can cover up the pot and do not see 
him die. For the benefit of those who have no qualms 
against the prescribed method, I give it here. Cut the tail 



FISH 61 



off just where it joins the body, and with one stroke, divide 
the body lengthwise into two equal parts. Remove the one 
long intestine and the stomach, reserve the coral. Put into 
a buttered broiler, split side down, and broil. When juices 
begin to flow brush over with melted butter and return to 
the fire, turning frequently to keep in the juices. Cook 
about 10 minutes on the split side and 8 minutes on the 
other. This is just as Marion Harland directs. With all 
due deference to her superior judgment, I kill the lobster 
before I attempt to cut him open, by dropping him for 5 
minutes into a large pot of boiling water, clapping on the 
lid at once. Then proceed as directed. The claws should 
be cracked, the meat removed in one piece and broiled. 

Have ready 2 tablespoons butter, rubbed to a cream, 
with 1 tablespoon minced parsley, and seasoned with lemon 
juice; to this add the coral, boiled and rubbed through a fine 
sieve. Brush the hot lobster over with this mixture and serve 
at once. 

Baked Lobster. 

After preparing as described above, brush generously 
with melted butter and bake in hot oven 15 minutes. This 
is much less trouble than broiling and quite as good, if 
method of cooking is not explained when "broiled lobster" 
is served. Put under the oven flame in the gas stove, or in 
the hottest part of the coal range oven. 



Fried Lobster. 

Divide meat of a boiled lobster into convenient sized 
pieces, the larger the better, but they must be uniform. 
Sprinkle with salt, pepper and lemon juice, crumb, egg and 
crumb, and fry in deep fat. Remember that all material to 
be fried is improved by standing in a cold place for an hour, 
after crumbing. Serve with a good sauce. 



62 WHAT AND HOW 



Lobster Farci. 

1 cup chopped lobster meat A grating of nutmeg 

Yolks 2 hard boiled eggs }/$ cup buttered crumbs 

yi tablespoon minced parsley Salt 

1 cup Thick White Sauce Pepper 

Add yolks of eggs rubbed to a paste, to lobster meat, 
also the sauce and seasoning. Fill the lobster shells, cover 
with crumbs, and brown in hot oven. 



Scalloped Lobster. 

2 cups lobster meat, cut into Beaten yolks 2 eggs 

small dice 1 tablespoon minced parsley 

1 cup White Sauce Juice of yi large lemon 

Salt and pepper 

When the white sauce cools, add the eggs and lobster, 
the parsley and lemon juice, seasoning with salt and pepper 
to taste. Fill the lobster shells, cover with buttered crumbs, 
sprinkle with paprika and bake until brown. This should serve 
10 people if used in course dinner or at luncheon. 

Lobster Cream. 

lyi cups boiled lobster meat >£ teaspoon dry mustard 

cut into small pieces 3 tablespoons cracker crumbs 

1 egg 1 cup milk 

1 cup cream Dash of cayenne, same of nutmeg 

1 tablespoon butter Salt 

Melt butter, add mustard, salt and cream. Soak crumbs 
in the milk and add to the mixture, cooking all together 
until smooth. Add lobster and coral, and lastly, the beaten 
egg.— "The Hostess of To-day.' , 

Lobster Cutlets. 

2 cups chopped lobster meat, yi teaspoon minced parsley 
freshly boiled 1 cup thick White Sauce 

1 teaspoon lemon juice Dash of cayenne, 3 gratings nutmeg, 

Yolk 1 egg Salt 

To the white sauce, which must be made according to 
recipe for Thick White Sauce, add all the other ingredients 
in the order given, cool and shape as cutlets. Egg and 
crumb, set in a cold place an hour or two to harden, and 



FISH 63 



fry as croquettes. Insert a small claw in one end of each cutlet, 
and serve on a bed of parsley or cress. —Miss Farmar. 

To Boil Grabs. 

For 1 dozen Crabs add to the water l /2 cup salt, l /2 cup 
vinegar and 2 teaspoons cayenne. 

Devilled Grabs I. 

1 dozen boiled crabs 4 eggs 

1 teaspoon mustard J4 lb. butter 

3 tablespoons vinegar Dash of cayenne 

3 tablespoons milk 1 teaspoon salt 

Beat eggs and add milk. Mix mustard with a little of the 
vinegar, add salt, pepper, butter and the rest of the vinegar. 
Cook in double boiler with milk and eggs. When thick remove 
from fire and cool. Mix with crab meat, fill crab shells and 
cover with buttered crumbs. Brown in hot oven or under gas 
flame. 

Devilled Crabs II. 

12 freshly boiled crabs 1 tablespoon lemon juice 

2 tablespoons melted butter Salt and cayenne 

Worcestershire sauce 

Pick meat carefully from shells, do not break the latter. 
Cut meat into neat pieces, mix with butter and seasonings. Use 
Worcestershire Sauce very cautiously — it is a matter of taste 
and too much will spoil the flavor of your crabs. This caution 
applies as well to cayenne. Fill shells with mixture and follow 
directions for Devilled Crabs I. 

Devilled Crabs III. 

1 cup White Sauce Yolks 2 eggs 

1 cup of crab meat, chopped 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 

Salt and pepper yi teaspoon chopped onion 

When the white sauce is slightly cooled, add the slightly 
beaten egg yolks, onion and salt and pepper. Mix with 
crab meat, and cook 3 minutes; add parsley. Return to 
shells, cover with buttered crumbs and bake until brown. 
Or, plunge into deep fat and fry. 



64 WHAT AND HOW 



CHAPTER V 

BEEF. 

Select beef with firm cream colored fat and fine grain. 
Avoid that with bright yellow fat and coarse grain. It is 
inferior and probably unwholesome. The choice cuts for 
roasting are the ribs, the chuck (first cut), and the pinbone, 
The chuck is juicy and tender, but is only desirable when the 
cut is from the end nearest the ribs. The pinbone is the most 
economical for small families; the end with the bone in is the 
tender end and best for roasting, while the tougher end with- 
out whiqh you cannot buy the pinbone, may be cut off and 
served for another meal, either as a stew, braised beef, or 
Hamburg steak. Allow ten minutes to the pound for roast- 
ing rare, twelve minutes if liked well done. The oven should 
be very hot at first, to sear the meat and thus hold in the 
juice, the heat may be decreased afterwards. It is a fatal 
mistake to put a roast of any kind into a cool oven, the re- 
sult will be a dry and tasteless piece of meat. Long slow 
cooking draws out the juice and is never to be used with roasting 
meat. 

No meat fibre can resist long and slow cooking, the 
choice and expensive cuts of beef and lamb may be roasted 
and baked, the cheaper ones must be braised, stewed or 
boiled. To braise meat, a double pan is necessary. The 
meat must be seared first in a hot pan with a small quantity 
of dripping, turning it so that every exposed surface is cica- 
trized to close the pores and prevent the escape of juices. 
Then place it on a trivet, or failing a regular braising pan 
which will have a trivet, use anything that will keep the 
meat raised from the bottom of the pan; then follow recipe 
given below. 

For roasting lamb, allow fifteen minutes to the pound, 
veal and pork at least twenty or more. These latter require 
very thorough cooking to be palatable and wholesome. 

Always remove paper from meat as soon as it comes from 
the market. It absorbs the juices and adheres to the meat 
if allowed to remain. Do not wash meat, unless absolutely 



BEEF 65 



necessary; but wipe thoroughly with a piece of cheese cloth 
dipped in vinegar and water. 

Remember that the less expensive cuts of meat contain 
the mos*t nutriment. Between the ribs of beef and the round 
the difference in proteids is over 5 per cent, in favor of the 
round, while the refuse, bones, etc., from the latter is 12 per 
cent, less, so that not only is the price per pound less, but the 
loss in cooking smaller and the nutriment greater. In veal 
mutton and lamb the same applies, and while we may not 
altogether discard the more dainty portions, as they are bet- 
ter flavored perhaps, as well as more tender, we can exercise 
a judicious care in their selection, and maintain a variety by 
their occasional use. 

Roast Beef. 

Wipe carefully and place in baking pan. Rub lightly 
with salt, sprinkle with pepper and dredge well with flour; 
this should form a crust to retain juices. Dredge the pan 
also with flour. Select pan according to the size of your roast, 
using one no larger than necessary to hold it. A very small 
quantity of water may be added to the pan to keep flour from 
burning before the fat melts and flows into the pan, but be 
careful in the use of this, as too much water will cause your 
roast to steam instead of bake. Baste every 10 minutes to 
ensure a juicy slice when cut. Read directions at beginning 
of this chapter for temperature of oven and time for roasting. 

Braised Beef. 

3 lbs. from lower round % cup each of onion, carrot, tur- 

2 thin slices fat pork nip and celery, chopped 

Salt and pepper 

Place meat upon trivet after searing it according to di- 
rections given, place vegetables around it and pour over all 
3 cups boiling water. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and 
cover closely. Cook in an oven just hot enough to keep the 
water at boiling point without actually boiling, for three 
hours, turning the meat over once. Other vegetables may be 
added if desired, and served around the meat. Make gravy 



66 WHAT AND HOW 



from juices remaining in pan after vegetables are strained 
out. It is important to keep the liquid in the pan from boil- 
ing, as the temperature would be too high for the meat to be 
tender. Any cheaper portion of beef will do quite as well as 
the round, the latter is more shapely. 

Pot Roast. 

There is probably no more generally abused roast of 
beef than this. The average woman ruins it in the cooking, 
and the butcher gets the blame which does not belong to him, 
for the cut he sells you for this delectable dish is necessarily 
tough. To the cook belongs the privilege of rendering it 
tender and delicious, and when properly prepared it is most 
valuable as a change from ordinary roasts. 

Buy for this 4 pounds of the round or chuck in one thick 
piece and y* pound fat salt pork. You may dispense with the 
latter if you have been wise enough to save some bacon or 
ham fat, or any good dripping. Heat the fat in a pot for 
which you have a tight cover. Cook the meat in this for 5 
minutes, turn and cook 5 minutes more. This will seal up 
the juices and prevent the meat from being dry. Add 1 cup 
tomatoes, 1 onion sliced, 2 teaspoons lemon juice, 1 bay leaf, 
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce, 1 turnip sliced, and 1 
carrot chopped fine. Put in enough hot water to come about 
half way to the top of meat and simmer slowly 2 hours, close- 
ly covered, turning at the end of first hour. 

Take out the meat, rub it with butter, salt and pepper, 
and keep hot while you strain the gravy, rubbing the vege- 
tables through the colander with it. Allowing ]/ 2 tablespoon 
of flour to each cup of gravy, rub it smooth with a little cold 
water, return gravy to pot and thicken with the flour. Let it 
boil up once, and strain part over the meat, the rest into a 
gravy boat. The success of this dish depends upon two 
things, the thorough searing and slow simmering. Should 
the liquid boil hard, the meat will never be tender. If the 
gravy is not dark enough in color, use kitchen bouquet to 
make it a rich brown. 



BEEF 67 



Sliced Beef. 

For this buy a cheaper piece of beef, no matter how tough 
it may be before cooking, it will be tender if simmered slowly. 
Take \y£ pounds beef and cook slowly in 6 cups water until 
tender. If very tough, add 1 teaspoon vinegar to the water. 
When cold cut in thin slices. Fry 2 tablespoons chopped onion 
in 3 tablespoons drippings or Crisco, add 2 tablespoons flour 
and blend with 1 cup water in which the meat was cooked. 
Cook slowly, stirring constantly until smooth. Add 1 table- 
spoon vinegar and 3 tablespoons tomato catsup. Heat meat 
in this. 

Pan Broiled Steak. 

Steaks should be cut not less than one inch thick, they 
are better thicker. The best method for cooking is pan broil- 
ing. When carefully done, the effect is the same as when 
broiled over an open fire, while there is less danger of burn- 
ing. The pan must be very hot and upon this depends the 
success of your steak. Use no grease whatever, and trim off 
most of the fat from the steak, as it must not fry. When 
you are sure the pan is hot enough, lay the steak in, and turn 
it over and over until both sides are well seared. Do this 
over a very hot fire. Now remove to a cooler place, and 
allow it to cook more slowly, turning less frequently. A 
steak one inch thick should be done in about 5 minutes, the 
time depending upon whether it is to be rare or well done. 
When ready to serve, transfer to a hot dish and season well 
with butter, pepper and salt. Turn into the pan about 2 table- 
spoons hot water, and when well mixed with the juice already 
in the pan, pour slowly over the steak, cover closely and let 
stand a few moments in a hot place before serving. 

Steaks may be served with a variety of sauces, the re- 
cipes for which will be found in the Chapter on Sauces for 
Meat and Fish. 

Planked Steak. 

A steak is most delicious cooked upon a plank in the 
oven. It should be nearly 2 inches thick. When about half 



68 WHATANDHOW 



done, surround with a border of mashed potato and return 
to over to finish cooking steak and brown the potatoes. Sea- 
son with butter, pepper and salt. 

Manhattan Steak, 

is a planked steak with potatoes as described above, with 
a border of peas previously cooked and well seasoned, placed 
inside the potato border, and baked tomatoes at the corners 
of the plank. Garnish with cress or parsley. 

Rolled Beefsteak. 

Select a steak cut from the round, no matter how tough, 
but a good shape for rolling. Lay flat on a board and pound 
it well with a wooden mallet. 

Mix a dressing of fine bread crumbs, seasoned with 
minced onion, a little chopped bacon or fat salt pork, salt 
and pepper, and moisten with a little hot water seasoned with 
kitchen bouquet. Spread this over the steak, roll up and tie 
into shape. Cook in oven slowly for two hours, closely cov- 
ered, basting several times with melted butter and hot water. 
Serve with Mushroom Sauce or plain gravy. 

A Tough Steak. 

can be rendered tender and palatable if marinated. To 
marinate, mix lemon juice and salad oil in equal parts, and 
lay steak in it for 2 hours, turning it once. Vinegar may be 
used instead of lemon juice, in the proportion of one part 
vinegar to three of oil. Wipe well before broiling. 

Kellogg and Cary. 

Trim into good shape and wipe off carefully a steak from 
the round. Cover with a layer of bread crumb dressing high- 
ly seasoned with minced onion, dried herbs, pepper and salt; 
roll up and tie at each end. Put into a kettle and cover with 
boiling water. To this add 1 can tomatoes, or 1 quart fresh 
tomatoes peeled and cut into pieces. Cover closely and sim- 
mer for 3 or 4 hours, when the meat should be tender and 



BEEF 69 



the liquid cooked to a thick sauce. The secret of success 
with this dish is very slow cooking, and at no time should 
the liquid boil. This was a favorite after opera supper with 
two vocalists famous a generation ago. Hence its name. 

Swiss Steak. 

2 cups chopped beef 4 tablespoons bread crumbs 

1 tablespoon chopped celery Gravy to moisten 

1 egg, beaten 

The tough end from the pinbone, a piece of the neck, or 
any scraps of raw meat will do for this steak. Put it, with 
celery, through the meat chopper, add other ingredients, sea- 
son with salt and pepper, and with the hands knead it until 
thoroughly mixed. Shape into a flat steak Xyi inches thick, 
and bake in a moderate oven about 40 minutes, basting fre- 
quently. 

Meat Pie. 

Cut remnants of roast beef or steak into neat dice-shaped 
pieces. To 1 cup good gravy add 1 cup Tomato Sauce, or 1 
cup stewed tomato rubbed through a sieve. Make a good 
biscuit dough, line a baking dish around the sides with a 
layer of dough rolled very thin. Place the meat in the dish, 
sprinkle with chopped onion, salt and pepper. Add 1 cup 
potatoes cut into neat dice and parboiled, ^ cup chopped car- 
rots and 1 red pepper, seeded and chopped. Over this pour 
the sauce, and cover with a layer of the biscuit dough ^2 inch 
thick. Wet edges of the dough to make them stick together, 
and cut slits in the crust to allow steam to escape. Or, cut a 
cross in the middle of the crust, and turn the corners back. 
Dumplings cut from the dough with a silver thimble may be 
added if desired. 

Biscuit Dough. 

Enough dough to cover a small pie may be miade of 

1 cup flour y^ teaspoon salt 

1 teaspoon baking powder Milk for stiff dough 

yi tablespoon lard 

Sift flour, salt and baking powder, chop in the lard with 
a knife and add milk cautiously to avoid making dough too 



70 WHATANDHOW 



soft, using knife to stir it with. Roll out on well floured board. 
When rolling out dough of any kind, dredge with flour 
to keep rolling pin from sticking. This is better than 
flouring the rolling pin. 

Beef Roll. 

2 lbs. beef, from round 1 egg 

Grated rind from 14 lemon yi teaspoononion'juice 

1 tablespoon chopped parsley 2 tablespoons^melted butter 

Salt, pepper and dash of nutmeg 

Chop meat in grinder, and add ingredients in order given; 
shape in a roll, wrap in buttered paper and bake % hour in 
moderate oven, basting frequently with butter and hot water, 
or | bacon fat melted in the water instead of butter. Serve 
with Mexican Sauce. 

Hamburg Steak. 
Pass meat twice through meat chopper, shape it into 
two small steaks and follow directions for pan broiling steak. 
Do not season steaks before cooking, as the salt will draw 
out the juices. Serve with slices of bacon and garnish with 
cress, or parsley, and lemon cut into cubes. 



71 



CHAPTER VI 

LAMB AND MUTTON. 

Lamb may be distinguished from mutton by its size, the 
color of the bones which should be pink, while in mutton 
they are white, and by the joint in the leg, which is serrated 
in lamb and perfectly smooth, and rounded in mutton. No 
one can be deceived if this knowledge is practically used. 

Very young lamb is expensive, and as the flesh of all 
young animals is immature, it is less nutritious than 
the flesh of older ones. Perhaps the most generally used and 
the best meat from sheep is from what is known as "yearl- 
ing,'' where the flesh is matured well and is yet tender and 
juicy. Mutton is cut from creatures about three years old, 
and should always hang for two to three weeks. In these 
days of cold storage, there is little likelihood of buying from 
the butcher mutton which is too fresh. Much of the strong 
taste or flavor frequently accompanying mutton is from the 
fat and skin; both of these should be removed so far as pos- 
sible. 

Roast Lamb. 

For this select the leg, or the forequarter. The latter 
should be thoroughly boned, stuffed and rolled before roast- 
ing. It is impossible to carve it satisfactorily unless the 
shoulder blade is removed. If not rolled, have the bones well 
cracked. Follow directions for roasting beef, allowing 15 
minutes to the pound. 

Braised Mutton. 

Mutton does not make a satisfactory roast, as it is apt to 
be tough and certain to be coarse grained and stringy. Braised, 
it is delicious. Have leg boned. Wipe well, and fill the cavity 
from which bone has been removed with well seasoned bread 
crumb dressing. Fasten the flap over with skewer, and 
braise according to directions for beef. 



72 WHATANDHOW 



Boiled Leg of Mutton. 

After wiping carefully, having previously removed skin 
and fat, put into a kettle and cover with boiling water. Boil 
hard for 5 minutes, then remove to back of range where it 
will simmer gently until meat is tender. After the first hour, 
add yi tablespoon salt. Serve with „ Caper Sauce, or Egg 
Sauce. Use water in which it was boiled for soup. 

Crown Roast. 
Have this prepared at your butcher's. It is made of ribs 
trimmed and sewed into shape. When roasting, cover bones 
with paper to prevent burning. When ready to serve, re- 
move papers from bones, slip over each bone a little curled 
paper which comes for the purpose, fill the space inside the 
crown with peas previously cooked and seasoned, and serve 
very hot, with a garnish of parsley or cress. 

Mutton Duck. 

This is made from the breast of mutton, and must come 
to you prepared by your butcher. It has the shape and ap- 
pearance of a duck, bill, tail and all, and looks most attrac- 
tive if served on a platter with a border of mashed potatoes, 
garnished with greens, with tiny red radishes or strips of 
pimento. When roasting, wrap bill and tail with paper to 
prevent their burning. Roast according to directions, which 
will necessitate weighing the duck. If you require your 
butcher to send you the bones which he removes, you will 
have material for soup. 

The duck may be stuffed with sausage if you desire it; 
and order it done when ordering the duck prepared. 

Irish Stew. 

Marion Harland, in her "Complete Cook Book," says that 
a man can pay his wife no greater compliment as woman and 
housekeeper than to say to a business acquaintance in town 
for the day, "I am just going home, come with me and take 
a family dinner with us; my wife and I would be charmed 



LAMB AND MUTTON 73 



to have you," and then she adds that it is quite worth the 
wife's while to make the best of the situation and welcome 
the unexpected guest with frank cordiality. She accom- 
panies this with a full page illustration of a "pick-up dinner" 
to which the "unexpected guest" may sit down, and says the 
men who are brought home to take pot luck will see in the 
"Irish stew, supported by browned potatoes, hot biscuits, 
home-made cake, and a capital cup of coffee, a feast fit for 
the gods as represented by the genial host and his corralled 
guest." Certainly no hungry man will decline Irish stew if 
it be well made. For this buy a rack of mutton or lamb, have 
it well cracked between the bones and the blade removed. 
This will enable you to cut it into pieces of uniform size, dis- 
carding the larger bones and every vestige of fat. Simmer 
in enough hot water to cover, for 1 hour. Then add salt, 2 
sliced onions and 2 small carrots chopped fine. These latter 
maty be omitted if not liked. Simmer for another hour, then 
add 2 cups potatoes diced, and cook until these are done. By 
this time the meat should be tender. Thicken the gravy with 
flour rubbed smooth in a little cold water, allowing }4 table- 
spoon to each cup of gravy, boil up once, and serve all on one 
dish. The gravy may be colored with kitchen bouquet if de- 
sired. 

Scotch Broth. 

Wipe 3 pounds mutton (the rack is the cheapest), and 
cut meat into 1 inch cubes, put into kettle and cover with 3 
pints cold water, bring quickly to boiling point and skim. 
Add 1 cup barley which has been soaked in cold water over 
night; simmer \}4 hours or until meat is tender. Put bones 
into separate kettle, cover with cold water, heat slowly to 
boiling point, and boil for Xyi hours. Strain and add the 
water to meat Melt 1 tablespoon butter in frying pan, add 
% cup each of carrot, turnip, celery and onion cut in small 
dice, fry 5 minutes, and add to soup with salt and pepper to 
taste. Cook until vegetables are soft, thicken with 1 
tablespoon flour and 1 tablespoon butter rubbed to- 
gether, and when ready to serve add }4 tablespoon chopped 
parsley. 



74 WHAT AND HOW 



Lamb Chops 

may be pan broiled according to directions for beefsteak. 
Rib chops, Frenehed, may be arranged around a mound of 
mashed potato previously browned in the oven. If gravy is 
made in the pan, as for steak, pour it over the potato. The 
mound should be flat on top, and the bones of the chops decor- 
ated with curled papers. 

Loin chops should be pan broiled, and seasoned with but- 
ter, pepper and salt. 

English Mutton Chops. 

Pan broil, following directions for beefsteak. 

Pan Broiling 

may be most successfully done in a gas stove, under the oven 
light. 

Breaded Chops. 

For these jjbuy chops from the leg of yearling mutton; 
wipe, egg and crumb, and fry in fat deep enough to cover 
chops. When thoroughly done, drain on soft paper before 
serving. Or, after browning them on both sides, make a gravy, 
return them to the pan and let them simmer on the back of the 
stove for one hour, closely covered. 



75 



CHAPTER VII 
VEAL AND PORK. 

Veal. 

Choose veal for its pinkish tinge and perfectly white fat. 
When meat is white, the calf was either too young to be fit 
for food, or it was bled to death, a practice not to be encour- 
aged by purchasing the meat. Veal lacks flavor, consequent- 
ly it needs more seasoning than other meat. For roasting, 
buy the leg or loin. The former is the more economical, as 
the loin has a large amount of bone. Have leg boned, and 
buy the loin with the kidney attached. Miss Far mar says 
that strips of fat salt pork should be roasted with veal to add 
flavor, and that roasts should be basted every 15 minutes, 
first with butter, melted in hot water and afterwards with the 
fat in the pan. Prepare veal for roasting according to direc- 
tions for beef, allowing double the time for cooking. 

Roast Fillet of Veal. 
Have your butcher lard a thick piece cut from the leg 
and roast according to directions already given. Serve with 
brown gravy and mushrooms. See time table for roasting 
on page 20. 

Braised Veal. 

Select the shoulder or breast, the forequarter of veal like 
that of lamb and mutton, is cheaper than the hindquarter. 
Cook according to directions for braised beef, adding 2 sprigs 
of thyme. 

Veal Cutlets. 

Cut into uniform pieces not too large, egg and crumb, 
having the egg well seasoned with salt and pepper. Fry 
just long enough to brown on each side and remove to a plat- 
ter. To the fat in the pan, add 1 tablespoon bacon or beef 
drippings; when very hot stir in 2 tablespoons flour, and 
when well blended 2 cups water or stock. Season with 1 



76 WHAT AND HOW 



teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, and color with kitchen bou- 
quet. Return the cutlets to the pan, cover closely and sim- 
mer slowly for 1}4 hours. Stewed and strained tomato is a 
great addition to the sauce; 1 cup is enough, though less will 
do. The liquid must be of sufficient quantity to cover cutlets. 
Be cautious in the use of kitchen bouquet. Too much of it will 
give a disagreeable flavor. Use it % teaspoon at a time. If the 
color is not right, add a few drops more. 

Veal Chops. 

are cut from the loin. They may be pan broiled and served 
with mushrooms or Tomato Sauce. They are improved by 
cooking x /2 hour, slowly, in the sauce. 

Veal Olives. 

Select for these, cutlets from the thickest part of the leg 
where they should be solid and in good shape for rolling. 
Cover with well seasoned bread crumbs, roll and tie into 
shape. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dredge with flour. 
Arrange in a small baking pan, cover and bake until tender, 
about yi hour. Remove cover and brown. Serve with 
gravy, or Mushroom Sauce. Add a small quantity of water 
to the pan and baste 3 times while cooking. 

Breaded Veal Chops. 

Wipe carefully, egg and crumb, and fry in fat deep 
enough to cover chops. Drain on paper before serving. 

A Knuckle of Veal. 

is a capability which is quite worthy of more general use. 
Select one which has enough meat on it to use for veal oysters, 
or veal loaf. 

Cut from it small pieces the size of an oyster, and cook 
as cutlets. Put what remains into a kettle, cover with cold 
water, add 4 cloves stuck into a peeled onion, 1 bay leaf, a 
bunch of celery tops tied with a string and 2 teaspoons salt. 
Bring gradually to boiling point, and simmer 2 hours. Re- 



VEALANDPORK 77 



move meat and strain stock into bowl to cool. The meat on 
the knuckle is now to be chopped very fine and used for cro- 
quettes, jellied veal, or cream mince; recipes for which will 
be found in another chapter. Instead of veal oysters, you 
may use the meat for veal loaf. I know of nothing to be 
purchased for the same amount of money that will yield as 
profitable returns as a knuckle of veal. 

Boiled Veal. 

A knuckle of veal may be boiled and served with Egg 
Sauce. It is a pleasant variation from the usual roast and 
stew course at dinner. It will be more tender and less stringy 
if simmered instead of boiled. Use only enough water to keep 
it from sticking to the kettle, and make the sauce with the 
water in which it was cooked. Replenish water as it cooks 
away. 

Veal Loaf. 

3 lbs. lean veal 6 crackers 

yi lb. fat salt pork 4 tablespoons cream 

yi tablespoon salt 2 tablespoons lemon juice 

yi teaspoon pepper yi teaspoon onion juice 

Put veal and pork twice through meat chopper. Add 
crackers rolled and other ingredients. Mix thoroughly and 
pack in a small bread pan, smoothing the top off evenly. 
Brush over with white of egg slightly beaten, and bake slow- 
ly 3 hours, basting with % cup melted butter or dripping. 
Prick with a fork while baking so that the butter may be 
absorbed by the meat. Cool and remove from pan. When 
serving, cut in very thin slices.— Miss Farmar. 

Veal Stew with Dumplings. 

2 lbs. lean veal, cut into pieces 2 eggs 

2 cups potatoes, cut into 1 inch yi, cup milk 

cubes Flour 
}4. teaspoon salt 

Cover the meat with boiling water and simmer for 1 
hour. Now add potatoes and salt. Make a batter of the 
eggs, slightly beaten and the milk, stirring in enough flour 
for stiff batter. Drop this, by the teaspoonful, into the stew T 



78 ^WHATANDHOW 



when the potatoes are half cooked, cover and boil for 20 min- 
utes. Season gravy with salt and pepper. 

Veal Pie. 

Make a biscuit dough, as directed for beef pie, line the 
sides of a deep baking dish with a layer of this dough, pour 
into the dish Stewed Veal made by preceding recipe, omitting 
the dumplings, but thickening the gravy slightly, and using it 
before potatoes are thoroughly done. Cover the top with 
rounds of the dough, cut with a small cooky cutter. 

Calf's Liver. 

Soak slices of liver in salt and water yi hour before fry- 
ing, to remove some of the blood. Wipe dry, sprinkle with 
salt and pepper and dredge with flour. Fry in bacon fat and 
serve with slices of bacon. Be careful not to fry too long, 
it toughens it. 

Sweet Breads. 

Recipes for cooking sweet breads will be found in Chapter 
XVI on Luncheon and Supper. 



PORK. 

For roasting, the little tenderloins are the choicest cuts, 
and considering that there is no waste whatever, either of fat 
or bone, the price asked for them is not extravagant. The 
shoulder, sometimes sold after curing and smoking as "pic- 
nic hams" is a good roasting piece, though it has quite large 
bones. The hams, or hind legs, have much more meat on 
them than the shoulders, but are higher priced. 

Pork, containing the largest proportions of fat of any 
meat, is most difficult of digestion, but when well cooked is 
not unwholesome in the winter months. In summer it is not 
used except after curing, salting and smoking. A fresh ham 
or shoulder should be roasted three or four hours. 



VEAL AND PORK 79 



Roast Tenderloin of Pork. 

A tenderloin weighing 2 pounds will require ^ hour to 
roast. Peel and core 3 apples, cut in half, and roast with 
the pork the last l /2 hour. Baste 4 times. Read directions 

for roasting meat in Chapter I. 

§ 

Roast Loin of Pork. 

This makes a delicious roasting piece, but is expensive, 
as there is a large quantity of bone and fat. Wipe clean, 
gprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour and roast 
20 minutes to the pound, basting frequently with the fat 
which flows into the pan. When done, remove roast to plat- 
ter, pour off the fat from the pan to use as dripping, and 
make a brown sauce or gravy, which must not be greasy. 
Serve apple sauce with roast pork, or apples, peeled and 
cored, roasted with the meat. 

Crown Roast. 

A crown roast of pork is made of loins of pork, and is a 
very sightly dish, filled with mashed potato and garnished 
with cress or parsley, decorated with strips of red pepper, or 
canned pimento. Like a crown roast of lamb, it is sewed 
into shape by the butcher. 

Pork Chops. 

Wipe clean, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with 
flour, put into a hot pan and fry slowly until tender. The fat 
on the chops is sufficient to fry them, or they may be egged and 
crumbed and cooked according to recipe for Veal Cutlet. 

Boiled Ham. 

Soak a ham for 48 hours, changing the water at end of first 
day. Wash, trim off rough places, put into ham boiler and 
cover with cold water. Bring quickly to boiling point, and 
simmer until the small bone will pull out. A ham weighing 10 
to 12 pounds will require about 3 hours. Allow it to cool in the 
liquor; remove skin and cover with a layer of brown sugar at 



80 WHATANDHOW 



least yi inch thick. Put into hot oven and baste it frequently 
as the sugar melts. In a short time the ham will be covered 
with a candied glaze, when it can be taken from the pan. If 
desired hot, do not allow it to cool before sugaring. Save the 
sugar and fat remaining in the pan to candy sweet potatoes. 

Baked Ham. 
After soaking, as directed for boiled ham, boil slowly for 
2 hours. Cool slightly in the liquor, remove the skin, and 
cover with a layer of fine bread crumbs, mixed with 1 table- 
spoon brown sugar. Push cloves into this ^ inch apart, and 
bake 1 hour in moderate oven, increasing the heat if neces- 
sary to brown it. A ham either boiled or baked should have 
the bone covered with fringed tissue paper, or with the curled 
papers which come for the purpose, before sending to the 
table. The directions given for a whole ham apply as well to 
a portion of a ham, except in time of cooking. Allow 20 
minutes to each pound for boiling. 

Slices of Cooked Ham 

may be toasted in a gridiron, or fried, without additional fat; 
care should be taken not to cook too long to render it dry 
and the sweet part of the fat should be trimmed off. 

Chipped Ham. 

When the ham is almost used up, chip tiny thin pieces 
from the bone. Melt a piece of butter in a pan, toss the ham 
chips around in this until well coated, dredge with flour, still 
tossing the meat around to mix flour with the butter, add 
cream sufficient for a rich gravy. This is similar to chipped 
dried beef in preparation, but entirely different in taste. Cut 
off all fat. 

Fried Ham. 

Soak thin slices of uncooked ham 1 hour in tepid water. 
Wipe dry and put into hot pan, brown quickly on one side, 
turn and brown on other side. Do not cook too long or it 
will be dry. Serve with cream gravy, made by dredging flour 



VEALANDPORK 81 



in the pan, rubbing it well into the fat, and adding cream or 
milk. If ham is very lean, use a little butter to make the 
gravy with. 

Sausage. 

Link sausages must be pricked with a fork and heated 
slowly to prevent bursting. They cook very well in the 
oven. 

Scrapple. 

Cut in thin slices, dredge well with flour and fry in hot 
pan with very small quantity of fat. 

Sausage and Fried Apples. 

may be served together. It is an almost universal custom 
to serve apples in some shape or form with pork, but few per- 
sons perhaps realize that the pectic acid of the apple aids very 
materially in the digestion of the pork, which makes the com- 
bination a wise one. 

Ball Sausage. 

Flour the hands well, roll balls of sausage and flatten 
them into cakes, remembering that the cakes will be smaller 
when fried. Save the fat in the pan. It is pure lard. The 
sausage contains sufficient fat to fry itself. 



m WHATANDHOW 

CHAPTER VIII 
POULTRY AND GAME. 

Chicken. 

In buying chickens, notice the crop, whether it be full or 
empty. Careful housewives in the country keep fowls for 
24 hours without any food before killing, and this is a most 
important factor in the wholesomeness and flavor of the flesh. 
In these days of selling by weight, you will oftener than not 
find full crops and distended sides, but avoid all such, for 
the flesh cannot fail to be impregnanted with the flavor of 
decomposition taking place in craw and intestines. In all 
Southern markets, poultry is offered for sale drawn, and the 
giblets neatly tucked under the wings. It is asserted that 
poultry undrawn is likely to be poisonous, inasmuch as we 
know not how long it has been killed and decomposition may 
have set in. This is disputed, but whether or not it be true, 
"the custom of exposing for sale undrawn poultry is unclean 
and unjust. I quote from Marion Harland, and she adds, 
"this I assert without the slightest hope of arousing my fel- 
low housekeepers to a remonstrance against established 
usage, only it relieves my mind to grumble at what I cannot 
help." This was written in 1871, and she had not yet seen 
the evil remedied except in certain localities. 

I am glad to state here that it is a possible thing to buy 
poultry in our market and have it sent home to you, ready 
to cook, when you have singed and wiped it clean, inside 
and out. It is not, as yet, a general practice, but a demand 
from housewives will eventually lead to the elimination from 
our markets of poultry that is undrawn. In the meantime, 
patronize the man who is willing to serve you with poultry 
cleaned and in good condition, and who sends it home to you 
neatly wrapped and attractively arranged. 

To Select Poultry. 

Pin feathers indicate always a young bird, an abund- 
ance of hairs, an older one. Pin feathers are the roots of 



POULTRY AND GAME 83 



feathers which break off in the plucking; being tougher in 
an old bird, they come out with the feather when it is pulled 
out. A soft breast bone is a sure sign of youth, and a full 
eye, of recent killing. Spurs are to be found on old birds, but 
being easily removed are not often in evidence when poultry 
is on the stall. A very young chicken is not always the 
most desirable, because its flesh is apt to be stringy, and the 
flavor not so good as in a more mature bird. An old stewing 
chicken makes the best roast if properly prepared and cooked. 
The recipe following was given me by one of Wilmington's 
old-fashioned housekeepers, who assured me that an old 
chicken was far superior to a young chicken to roast. I have 
used no other recipe for years, and can testify to its value. 

Roast Chicken. 

Select a large fowl (a fowl always means an old bird) 
with a good full breast and an empty crop. Have it drawn 
and sent home ready for cooking. Singe, wipe, or wash if 
necessary, until thoroughly clean, and fill with Bread Crumb 
Dressing. Tie legs and wings down flat, rub over with salt 
and put into a kettle with enough water to come half way 
up on the chicken. To each quart of this water add 1 table- 
spoon vinegar, and let fowl steam in this, cooking steadily 
but not too hard, until the flesh in thickest part of leg is 
tender. Remove to a baking pan, brush over with butter, 
and brown in hot oven. Use some of the water in which the 
steaming was done, to make the gravy. In the meantime, 
boil the liver and gizzard, skin the latter, cut all into small 
pieces and add to the gravy. Put the water in which these 
were boiled, with the remainder in the kettle, and set aside 
for soup. 

Boiled Fowl. 

Select a fowl and follow directions given for roast 
chicken, adding to the crumb dressing 1 pint oysters. Place 
in kettle, cover with boiling water and simmer 15 minutes 
to the pound. If the fowl is very old and tough, add vinegar 
to the water in the proportion of 1 tablespoon to 1 quart of 
water. Serve with Oyster Sauce. 



84 WHATANDHOW 



Oyster Sauce. 

] cup White Sauce 1 pint oysters 

yi cup oyster liquor 1 teaspoon lemon juice 

Salt and pepper 

Melt 1 tablespoon butter in pan, rub in 1>2 tablespoons 
flour; when blended add yi cup milk and % cup oyster liquor 
which should be previously heated and strained through a 
double thickness of cheese cloth. Wash oysters and cook in 
the sauce long enough to ruffle. Do not let them cook too 
long or they will be tough. If they are large, it is best to 
cut them up. Add seasonings and serve in a gravy boat. 
The sauce should be quite thick as it will thin out when the 
oysters go in. 

Boiled Turkey 

is prepared and cooked by the same method as is given for 
chicken. It is a pleasant change from roast turkey— with a 
flavor entirely different. Either oysters or chopped celery 
may be used in the stuffing^and sauce. 



Smothered Chicken. 

For this select a young chicken, split it up the back and 
lay it flat in a baking pan, skin side up. Spread with bacon 
fat, or lay upon it thin slices of bacon. Have the pan no 
larger than is necessary to hold the chicken; pour into it yZ. 
cup hot water and cover closely so that the steam cannot 
escape. Bake in hot oven. When tender, which should be 
in 20 minutes to ^ an hour, remove the chicken to hot dish 
and keep warm while making the gravy. Serve sliced bacon 
with it. 

Broiled Chicken. 

This, too, requires a young chicken, which is to be split 
up the back. Flatten the breast bone with a wooden mallet. 
This should be carefully done, for the bone must not be splin- 
tered. Have a pan very hot, place the chicken in it, and 
turn frequently at first until it browns well on both sides. 



POULTRY AND GAME 8.5 



Now cook more slowly until chicken is tender, about 20 min- 
utes. Place on a hot dish, butter well on both sides, and 
season with salt and pepper. Add ^2 cup water to the pan, 
stir well over a hot fire, and pour over the chicken. Serve 
very hot and keep tightly covered. This is a pan broil, which 

1 recommend in preference to broiling over an open fire, in- 
asmuch as the result obtained is the same and there is no 
danger of ruining the chicken by scorching; but the pan 
must be hot enough to sear the meat at once, and so close 
the pores to prevent escape of juices. 

Baked Fricassee of Chicken. 

Joint a stewing chicken as for frying. Sprinkle with salt 
and pepper, and dredge with flour. Place in a baking pan 
with a liberal piece of butter on each section, pour over all 

2 cups milk and 2 cups water, and place on the top rack of 
a moderate oven. Cook for yi hour, turn each piece, bake 
for another ]/2 hour, when turn again and bake y?. hour longer. 
By this time the chicken should be tender and the sauce thick 
and smooth. Should the chicken seem very tough, steam 
before baking in 1 cup water and 2 teaspoonfuls vinegar, cooking 
very slowly and closely covered for 1 hour. 

Fried Chicken. 

Joint a chicken, which should be a young one and tender. 
Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in flour and fry in hot fat. 
Cook rather slowly so that the meat will be well done all through 
before the outside is too brown. When tender, remove to a 
hot dish, pour off the fat, leaving 1 tablespoon of it in the pan. 
To this add 1 tablespoon flour and 1 cup milk, stirring vigor- 
ously until smooth. Add salt and pepper and pour over the 
chicken. 

Stewed Chicken. 

The secret of perfect stewed chicken lies in slow cook- 
ing with a small quantity of water. If the kettle be tightly 
covered, the chicken will cook tender in the steam, while the 
flavor will not be lost in a large quantity of water. A little 



86 WHATANDHOW 



vinegar in the water will always shorten the process. Cut 
the fowl into pieces and cook until tender in just enough 
water to keep it from sticking to the kettle. For a medium 
sized fowl, about 1 cups should be sufficient; a good rule 
to depend upon is }4 the depth of the meat. Marion Harland 
says chicken for stewing and fricasseeing should always be 
cut into pieces so small that the carver will have no use for 
a knife in helping the dish, the breast and back each in 2 
pieces and every joint separate from the next. When sure 
that the meat is tender, remove from the kettle and keep hot 
in another vessel. Pour out the gravy, set the bowl in a 
pan of ice water to cool quickly and cause the fat to rise to 
the top. Skim and strain. Make a white sauce of 2 table- 
spoons butter, 2 tablespoons flour rubbed smooth. Add 1 
cup cream if you have it; if not milk, and 1 cup of the gravy. 
If sauce is too thick, add more gravy. Season with salt and 
pepper, and add 1 tablespoon parsley chopped very fine. 
The flavor may be improved by cooking with the chicken, a 
bunch of celery tops and an onion chopped. 

Fricasseed Chicken. 

Joint the chicken. Fry y 2 pound fat salt pork in thin 
slices in a pan. Slice a large onion and cook with the pork 
until tender, but do not let it burn. Dredge the pieces of 
chicken well with flour, and brown in the fat, turning several 
times. Place chicken, onion, pork and fat in a deep kettle, 
add 1 cup water, cover closely and steam until meat is tender 
Make a brown sauce, according to recipe given in the chapter 
on sauces, using the strained gravy from the kettle, instead 
of milk. Pour over the chicken and keep hot in a closely 
covered dish. 

Chicken Saute a la Creole. 

2 young chickens 1 pint boiling water 

2 tablespoons butter C sweet green peppers 

2 tablespoons flour 3 large onions 
6 large tomatoes, or 2 cloves garlic 
]/2 can tomatoes 2 bay leaves 

3 sprigs thyme 3 sprigs parsley 

Salt and pepper to taste 



POULTRY AND GAME 87 



Joint the chickens, melt the butter and fry the chickens 
until browned, add the onions sliced and let them brown. 
Stir in the flour and add tomatoes. Mince the parsley, thyme 
and bay leaves; seed and cut the peppers into strips, mince 
the garlic and add all to the sauce. Cover closely and sim- 
mer for 15 minutes. Unless the tomatoes make enough 
liquid add the water when necessary, otherwise it is not 
added until after the sauce has cooked for 15 minutes. After 
adding the water, simmer for half an hour and season with 
salt and pepper to taste. This recipe is taken from the 
"Picayune Cook Book." I would suggest that the sauce will 
be more easily made if the chicken be removed after brown- 
ing, and returned to the sauce after the tomatoes are added. 
The recipe closes thus: "You will then have a dish for which 
any old Creole would go from Carrollton to the Barracks, a 
distance of fifteen miles, merely to get a taste of." Let me 
warn my readers that the success of this dish depends upon 
slow, steady simmering, with the saucepan closely covered. 



Marion Harland's Pilau of Chicken. 

There is no preparation of chicken that can lay claim to 
greater excellence than this dish, and it well repays the trouble 
of doing it just right, which is the price of success with it. 

Joint a tender chicken and leave for a half hour in a bath 
of salad oil and lemon juice. (See Marinating, Chapter I.) 
Drain without wiping. Fry a sliced onion in 3 tablespoons 
butter, and then put in the chicken. Cook for 10 minutes, 
turning often, and empty the contents of the pan into a pot 
with a broad bottom. Pour over this a cup of Tomato Sauce, 
or a cup of stewed and strained tomato, and the same of stock. 
If no stock is at hand, use a cup of hot water, seajsoned with 
celery and onion. Stew gently until chicken is tender, take it 
up and keep hot in the oven, covered closely. Have ready ^ 
cup of rice soaked for 1 hour in cold water, put this with the 
gravy in the pot and cook until soft. Put chicken back in pot, 
mixing well with the rice, simmer 3 minutes and serve on hot 
platter with Parmesan cheese sifted thickly over all. 



88 WHATANDHOW 



Chicken Pie I. 

1 stewing chicken 1 cup milk 

1 quart oysters 1 cup chicken stock 

2 tablespoons flour 2 tablespoons chicken fat 

Salt and pepper 

Joint chicken and simmer until tender, using enough 
water to cover it. Put >£ onion and a bunch of celery tops 
into the kettle for seasoning. Strain, and set in a cold place. 
It is well to prepare the chicken thus far, the day before the 
pie is to be made. Skim fat from stock, make White Sauce 
of fat, flour, milk and stock, season with salt and pepper. Wash 
and drain oysters. Line the sides of a baking dish with good 
pastry. Put in a layer of chicken, cover with oysters, sprinkle 
with pepper and salt, and spread with a layer of sauce. Repeat 
until dish is full. Cover with the pastry, cut slits to allow 
escape of steam, and bake until crust is brown, which should be 
in half an hour. 

Puff paste may be used if desired. Biscuit dough is very 
good, while plain pastry is perhaps more generally in favor. 
Tiny dumplings, cut from the dough with a thimble, improve 
the pie. 

Chicken Pie II. 

Follow recipe for fricasseed chicken; remove the larger 
bones. Line a baking dish with pastry, and fill with the fri- 
casseed chicken. Sprinkle with green pepper, minced, and 
add the dumplings as directed in preceding recipe. Cover 
with pastry and bake >2 hour. Remember to cut slits for 
escape of steam; or you may cut a cross in the centre of pie, 
and fold back the corners. Before attempting either of these 
pies, read directions for making a pie in Chapter XIV. 



Chicken Pie III. 

2 stewing chickens 8 cups flour 

8 large potatoes 2 teaspoons baking powder 

1 tablespoon salt 1 cup lard or Crisco 

Joint chickens as for frying. Reserve second joints and 
breasts of one; there will be enough without them. Use for 
another meal. 



POULTRY AND GAME 8!) 



Sift flour, baking powder and salt twice, cut the lard in with 
a knife and mix into a soft dough with ice water. (See direc- 
tions for pastry, Chapter XIV.) 

Roll out a portion of this dough % inch thick and line a 
kettle holding at least 6 quarts of water, on the sides only about 
}$ of its depth. Cover the bottom of the kettle with slices of 
onion and a laj^er of sliced bacon cut rather thick. On this put 
a layer of the chicken, sprinkled with salt, pepper and a liberal 
dredging of flour. Cover this with slices of potato Vz inch 
thick and next put a layer of squares cut from the dough. 
Next, a layer of chicken as before, with seasonings and flour, 
a layer of potatoes and squares of dough until materials are used. 
Cut out a crust to fit over all, w r et edges and pinch to dough on 
sides of kettle. Before this crust is put on, cut a cross in the 
middle of it and after it is on fold back the corners of the cross. 
Put a tablespoon of vinegar in enough water to fill the kettle 
as far up as the top crust but not over it. Cover the kettle with 
a tight lid, bring to a boil and simmer for 1 hour. Replenish 
the liquid with hot water as it cooks away. At the end of the 
hour, remove lid and bake in a moderate oven for 1 hour. Fill 
up again with hot water when ready to serve. Remove to a 
platter, put part of the gravy over it and serve, some in a gravy 
boat. This pie is sufficient for 10 people. Reduce the recipe 
by one-half if a small pie is desired. Many of those who use 
this book will recognize this chicken pie as it has been served 
in a Wilmington family for many years and to those of us who 
have been fortunate enough to feast upon it, memories are 
bright with thoughts of kindly hospitality and chicken pie 
served with stewed onions and pickled cabbage, a meal "fit for 
the gods." 

Turkey. 

In buying turkey it is always best to leave the selection 
to a dealer whom you can trust. It is not as easy to choose with 
its age in view, as is chicken. The same advice is safe with 
ducks. Choose a reliable man who will draw your turkey or 
duck and allow him to select your bird. The pin feather test 
hold good with all poultry, as does the full eye, and while a 



90 WHATANDHOW 



fowl may be good when treated judiciously to tendering, neither 
the turkey nor the duck will successfully stand this treat- 
ment. Therefore a tender bird is essential. 

Roast Turkey. 

Wash out the bird thoroughly, adding a little soda to 
the water; rinse well and fill with stuffing of bread crumb, 
sausage or chestnuts, as given below. Sew up the body, and 
tie the craw with a string. Using narrow strips of muslin, 
bind legs and wings securely to the body, and cover the 
breast with slices of salt pork. There is a trivet which has 
been placed upon the market for holding poultry in the 
pan, breast side down, which does away with the necessity 
of covering the breast with the pork. Pour a cup of boiling 
water over it, and bake fifteen minutes to the pound, in a 
very hot oven at first, decreasing afterwards to a slow steady 
heat. Baste frequently. When almost done, brush over 
with butter, or better yet, bacon fat, dredge with flour, and 
finish cooking. Before making the gravy, pour the fat and 
juices into a bowl, cool quickly and remove the grease which 
rises to the top. Turn back into the pan, add giblets boiled 
and chopped very small, and thicken with flour rubbed 
smooth in a little cold water. Season with salt and pepper. 

Bread Crumb Stuffing for Turkey or Chicken. 

1 cup bread crumbs Salt and pepper 

2 tablespoons butter Summer savory, or sweet mar- 
2 tablespoons hot water joram 

Melt butter in water, pour over the crumbs and add sea- 
sonings. There is an excellent poultry seasoning which can 
be bought already mixed. If cracker crumbs are used in- 
stead of bread, allow for swelling, and do not stuff the bird 
too full. 

Sausage Stuffing. 

Mix sausage with bread crumbs, in proportion of 1 part 
crumbs to 2 parts sausage. 



POULTRY AND GAME. 01 



Chestnut Stuffing. 

Boil, shell and peel 1 quart large chestnuts, mash smooth 
and add 2 tablespoons butter, salt and pepper. A small quan- 
tity of crumbs may be used with this, or the turkey stuffed 
with the chestnuts alone. 



Roast Duck. 

AY ash thoroughly, adding 1 teaspoon soda to the water, 
and rinse in two waters. Wipe dry, and stuff with mashed 
potato, seasoned with salt, pepper, and minced parsley. Cut 
an onion in half, and put the two pieces into the potato. Pour 
a cup of boiling water over the ducks, sprinkle with salt, 
dredge well with flour, and roast fifteen minutes to the pound 
in a covered pan. When tender, brush over with butter or 
bacon fat, dredge again with flour and brown. As the gravy 
will contain a large amount of fat, it should be strained into 
a bowl and set in a pan of ice water to cool suddenly, when 
the grease may be skimmed off, and the gravy returned to 
the pan. Thicken with a little flour rubbed smooth with 
cold water and strain into the gravy boat, over the giblets 
boiled and minced very fine. Remember directions already 
given for gravies and sauces that they must always cook long 
enough after flour is added, to destroy the floury taste. 

Or, the ducks may be stuffed with the usual Crumb Dress- 
ing as given for turkey and chicken. 



Roast Goose. 

If purchased from a dealer whose word is to be trusted, 
a goose is a welcome change from the usual poultry, and 
will be found very good. Roast according to directions given 
for ducks, using either potato or crumb dressing, and allow 
20 minutes to the pound unless very tough, when a longer 
time will be required. Remove all the grease before making 
the gravy. Goose grease is very strong in its flavor, and is 
not desirable in the gravy. 



WHAT AND HOW 



Venison Steak. 

Venison steak requires marinating for three hours before 
cooking. Pan broil, season with pepper and salt, and spread 
on both sides with butter. Add to the juice in the pan 2 
teaspoons currant jelly and 2 tablespoons hot water; stir 
until jelly is melted and pour over the steak. Cover at once 
with a hot lid, and keep hot in the oven a few moments be- 
fore serving. A steak cut from the tender side of the round 
of beef and prepared in this way will bear a strong resem- 
blance to venison. 

Partridges. 

After cleaning and singeing the birds, wash in water 
with a teaspoon of soda dissolved in it, and rinse thoroughly. 
Wipe inside of the bird perfectly dry and fill with an oyster 
stuffing. (See directions for Boiled Chicken.) Tie down 
legs and wings with a string, and bake in a moderate oven 
twenty minutes. Cover the breast of each bird with strips 
of fat salt pork or bacon while cooking. Serve on slices of 
buttered toast, moisten with the gravy in the pan. 

Or, the birds may be split up the back and cooked in a 
covered pan; season well with salt and pepper; pour over them 
on the dish, Oyster Sauce or broiled oysters. 

Reed Birds, 

need very careful cooking in order that they shall be juicy. 
They may be broiled, but will be perhaps better if cooked in 
the oven, covered with slices of bacon. They may also be 
cooked with a large oyster inside, and should always be 
served on toast. They are so small and tender that they are 
in danger of being cooked too long, in which case they lose 
their flavor and juiciness. 

Wild Ducks 

should be roasted with a large onion inside to counteract the 
fishy flavor. Roast about 20 minutes, if medium size, in a 
hot oven, basting frequently. Do not put any water in the 



POULTRY AND GAME 93 



pan, but cover the breasts with slices of bacon which will 
supply material for basting. A wild duck should be rare 
enough for the blood to run when it is carved. 

Stewed Rabbits. 

After washing thoroughly, wrpe dry and joint, cutting 
the back in half. Stew slowly until tender, in enough water 
to cover (and no more), to which add a bunch of herbs or 
celery tops, salt and pepper, and an onion sliced. They 
should be tender in 2 hours; remove meat, thicken gravy, 
color brown with kitchen bouquet, add a teaspoon of Wor- 
cestershire sauce, and put the meat back to heat again. 



94 WHAT AND HOW 

CHAPTER IX 

FISH AND MEAT SAUCES. 

In recommending the frequent use of sauces, I can do 
no better than to quote Linda Hull Lamed, the author of 
"The Hostess of To-day," when she says: "The greatest 
stumbling blocks to success at home are a lack of sauces and 
the knowledge, time and practice it requires to make them. 
In all first-class hotel or restaurant kitchens, the chefs are 
well supplied with a variety of sajuces, stocks and glazes. 
These are always on hand so that a dip into one and a spoon- 
ful of another result in something which cannot be copied in 
the home kitchen." In the following collection of recipes for 
sauces, I have selected those best adapted for home use, and 
almost without exception these will keep for several days in 
a cool place. 

Bechamel Sauce. 

Scald 1J/2 cups milk with 1 slice of onion, bit of bay leaf 
and sprig of parsley, also 3 peppercorns. Strain. Make 
White Sauce with 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon flour and 
the seasoned milk. Beat yolk of 1 egg, add hot sauce grad- 
ually, and season with salt and pepper. In making the white 
sauce follow the directions given very carefully. White 
Sauce and Brown Sauce are foundation sauces; when these 
are a mastered art, no other sauces will be difficult to accom- 
plish. 

White Sauce. 

In a flat sauce pan melt 1 tablespoon butter, add 1 table- 
spoon flour and stir until blended. Add 1 cup of milk and 
continue stirring until it is well mixed. Season with salt and 
pepper. Beat until smooth and cook long enough to elimin- 
ate the taste of flour. A flat wire spoon is indispensable for 
the proper making of sauces if a flat bottomed pan or skillet 
is used. If a round bottomed sauce pan is used, a wire whisk 
is necessary. These two articles should be in every kitchen. 



FISH AND MEAT SAUCES 05 



An extra heavy spoon of twisted wire is far better than the 
flimsy spoons to be bought for five cents; costing just twice 
as much, it lasts for years. 

Thick White Sauce. 

is used for cutlets, croquettes, etc., and is made in the same 
manner as the preceding recipe, substituting for the measure 
of flour, % cup Kingsford's corn starch, or y$ cup flour. If 
a rich sauce is desired, increase the butter. 

Caper Sauce. 

To White Sauce add }4 cup capers, drained. 

Egg Sauce. 

To 1 cup White Sauce add chopped hard boiled egg, or 
chop the white and rub the yolk through a sieve over the 
sauce. 

Brown Sauce. 

is made as White Sauce and colored with kitchen bouquet; 
or, brown the butter in the pan, add the flour gradually, al- 
lowing it to brown, and the milk or seasoned water, which- 
ever is used. Add a few drops kitchen bouquet, if not brown 
enough. Seasoned water adds to the flavor of a sauce; direc- 
tions for making it will be found in recipe for Mushroom 
Sauce II. 

Rockford Sauce. 

Make a white sauce, beat the yolk of an egg, add to it 
1 tablespoon finely chopped sweet red pepper or pimento, stir 
into the hot sauce, and just before serving add 1 teaspoon 
chopped parsley and 1 teaspoon lemon juice. 

Bread Sauce. 

1 cup stale bread crumbs 1 onion 

1 tablespoon butter Pepper, salt and a tiny pinch of 

\}4 cups milk mace 

Heat milk with butter and onion chopped fine. Cook 

until onion is soft. Pour over the crumbs and let stand 1 hour. 

Add other ingredients, boil 5 minutes and serve with poultry 

and game birds. 



96 WHAT AND HOW 



Mushroom Sauce I. 

To Brown Sauce, add yi can mushrooms, or fresh mush- 
rooms cut into small pieces and cooked five minutes in butter. 

Mushroom Sauce II. 

1 can hotel mushrooms yi tablespoon lemon juice 

2 tablespoons butter 2 cups seasoned water 
2 tablespoons flour Salt and pepper 

Simmer 2 cups of water for 10 minutes with 1 slice onion, 
1 slice carrot, sprig of parsley, 6 peppercorns, sprig of thyme, 
and a piece of bay leaf. Strain. This gives the seasoned 
water called for and adds to the flavor of the sauce. Plain 
water may be used if not convenient to make the other, but 
the sauce will not have the same flavor. Open the can of 
mushrooms an hour before using and expose it to the air, 
after draining and rinsing. Chop or mince half of them, re- 
serving some of the nicest looking pieces. Put butter and 
lemon juice in sauce pan and heat; add the minced mush- 
rooms and cook slowly, 5 minutes. Strain out the mush- 
rooms. Allow the butter to brown and stir in the flour. 
When blended add seasoned water, mix until smooth, and 
simmer 15 minutes. Add reserved pieces, cook 2 minutes 
longer and season with salt and pepper. If not a good 
brown color, use a few drops kitchen bouquet. Sherry is an 
improvement. If fresh mushrooms are used, omit seasoned 
water and use 1 cup hot water instead. 

Tomato Sauce. 

In a sauce pan put 2 cups tomatoes cut into pieces (or the 
equivalent in canned tomatoes), }4 small onion sliced, a piece 
of bay leaf the size of a nickel, 3 cloves and a teaspoonful of 
sugar. Boil for 10 minutes and rub through a sieve. Stir 
in a pinch of soda. Melt a tablespoon of butter in a sauce 
pan and let it brown, remove from the fire and rub in 1^2 
tablespoons flour, add }4 teaspoon kitchen bouquet and com- 
bine mixtures. Return to fire and add salt and pepper to 
taste. Cook 5 minutes, stirring. 



FISH AND MEAT SAUCES 97 



Sauce Supreme. 

y+ cup butter \}4 cups chicken stock 

}4 cup flour >4 cup hot cream 

Make as White Sauce, season with salt, pepper and lemon 
juice. When not used for chicken, omit chicken stock and 
use 2 cups cream. This sauce, as its name implies, is above 
all other white sauces, and is useful for chicken, fish, oysters 
and lobster. 

Cucumber Sauce. 

Half cup cucumber chopped fine, }4 teaspoon salt, }4 tea- 
spoon each parsley and onion minced, 1 tablespoon vinegar. 
Let this mixture drain in fine wire sieve for a half hour. 
When ready to serve, add it carefully to yi cup well whipped 
cream, or to same quantity Mayonnaise. To be used with 
fish, or salad, and moulds of cold fish. 

Sauce Piquante. 

To l'cup Brown Sauce, add 1 tablespoon vinegar, 1 table- 
spoon pickles and 1 tablespoon capers chopped fine, and a dash 
of cayenne. This sauce is used for fish, vegetables, especially 
cabbage and Brussels sprouts, or for cold meat. 

Sauce Tartare. 

To k thick Mayonnaise add chopped pickles and capers, 
and parsley minced to a powder. 

Hot Sauce Tartare. 

1 tablespoon vinegar y$ cup butter 

1 teaspoon lemon juice % teaspoon salt 

1 tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce Dash of paprika 

Mix all ingredients except butter, and heat over hot 
water. Brown butter in sauce pan and strain into first mix- 
ture. 

To cook over hot water, put ingredients into flat bot- 
tomed sauce pan, remove lid from tea kettle full of water boil- 
ing hard, and put sauce pan in place of lid. 



WHAT AND HOW 



Mexican Sauce. 



Chop an onion very fine, and brown in 1 tablespoon good 
dripping, or if not on hand, use butter. Be careful that the 
onion does not burn; add 1 green pepper and 1 red pepper, 
chopped fine, and 1 cup stewed and strained tomato. Cook 
slowly 15 minutes, add 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, \% 
teaspoon celery salt, or 1 teaspoon extract celery, salt to taste. 

This sauce is fine for steak, or for use in a casserole of veal. 



Hollandaise Sauce I. 

Wash ]/ 2 cup butter until waxy and smooth. Dry and 
divide into 3 portions. Put one piece in a sauce pan with 1 
tablespoon lemon juice and yolks of 2 eggs. Place over tea 
kettle of boiling water and stir with wire whisk until butter 
melts. Add second piece butter, and when thick, third piece, 
stirring constantly. Remove from fire and add y& teaspoon 
salt and dash of pepper, or cayenne. Do not cook too long or 
it will curdle. This sauce may be varied by adding finely 
chopped parsley, or 2 tablespoons strained tomato, cooked 
thick. Use with eggs and fish. 

Hollandaise Sauce II. 

"%. cup butter Dash of cayenne 

Juice y 2 lemon 14 cup boiling water 

Yolks 2 eggs % teaspoon salt 

Beat butter to a cream, add egg yolks 1 at a time, beating 
hard, lemon juice and seasonings. Put bowl over hot water 
and stir vigorouly until the mixture thickens, when add the 
boiling water and continue stirring until thick. Beware of 
cooking too long. 

Mint Sauce. 

Chop fresh mint very fine. Add an equal quantity of 
sugar and crush together with the back of a spoon. Cover 
closely and stand aside for an hour, if feasible. W T hen ready 
to serve, moisten with vinegar. 



FISH AND MEAT SAUCES 99 



Currant Jelly Sauce. 

To one cup Brown Sauce, or gravy left from roast lamb, 
add 1 tablespoon currant jelly. This sauce is to be used over 
slices of cold lamb, which may be reheated in the sauce. Also 
for venison. 

Creole Sauce. 

£ tablespoons (level) chopped 2 tomatoes stewed and strained 

onion yi cup sliced mushrooms 

4 tablespoons (level) chopped 6 olives, stoned 

green pepper 1 y$ cups Brown Sauce 

<i tablespoons (level) butter Salt and pepper, 

Cook onion and peppers with butter 5 minutes, add toma- 
toes, mushrooms and olives, cook 2 minutes and add Brown 
Sauce. Bring to boiling point, season with salt and pepper. 

Gravies. 

Much of the prejudice existing against gravies would be 
overcome were they made properly. Too often gravy is a 
mixture of grease and lumps of flour when it should be entirely 
free from both. After roasting meat, remove from the pan 
and strain the fat into the dripping can. In the case of mutton, 
discard the fat; it is too strong to use as dripping. Leave about 
a tablespoonful in the pan to mix the flour with. Return to the 
fire; when the fat is hot, stir in 2 tablespoons flour gradually to 
allow it to brown, and pour over it 2 cups hot water. Use the 
flat wire spoon recommended for sauce making, scraping the 
bottom of the pan to obtain any meat juice which may have 
hardened there. Season with salt and pepper and }4 teaspoon 
kitchen bouquet. If flour has browned as it should, the gravy 
will be a rich brown color; if not, add more kitchen bouquet, 
remembering that too much of it will spoil the flavor of the 
gravy, as it is very strong. Strain into the gravy boat. 

Hot Maitre d'Hotel Sauce. 

To 1 cup White Sauce made with water instead of milk, 
add juice of 1 lemon, 2 tablespoons minced onion, 2 tablespoons 
minced parsley, a pinch of cayenne and salt. Simmer over fire 
for 15 minutes, stirring constantly, or avoid constant stirring 



100 WHATANDHOW 



by cooking in double boiler. It is an improvement to add the 
parsley just before serving instead of cooking it. 

Maitre d'Hotel Sauce. 

Cream 2 tablespoons butter with the juice of yi lemon, 
add 1 tablespoon minced parsley. Serve very cold with fish. 

Sauce a la Hotel Strand. 

1 tablespoon chopped raw ham 2 cloves 

1 tablespoon chopped celery 1 tablespoon butter 

1 tablespoon chopped carrot 1 tablespoon flour 

]/2 tablespoon chopped onion % tablespoon minced parsley 

Salt and pepper 2 cups water 

Put the ham, celery, carrot and onion through the meat 
chopper. There should be % cup when mixed together. Put 
these on the fire with the butter and cloves. When butter is 
melted, add the flour and stir until browned. Add water 
gradually and cook 5 minutes. Season with salt, pepper, and 
sherry wine; strain and sprinkle with parsley. This is a famous 
sauce for fried lobster, or crabs. 



101 



CHAPTER X 

VEGETABLES. 

Summer vegetables should be cooked as soon as possible 
after gathering. Corn and peas especially lose their sweet- 
ness after standing. This is why vegetables taste so much 
better in the country than in town, and is a most excellent 
reason for patronizing the farmer who will deliver them fresh 
to you every day, f you are dependent upon city markets. 
The winter vegetables will keep best in a cool, dry place, and 
I would urge upon my readers to make more use of these and 
less of canned goods, though, of course, the latter are useful 
in their own place. A little study of this matter will show 
that the vegetables provided for our winter use are rich in 
carbohydrates which furnish energy and heat for the body, 
and they contain also a large percentage of mineral matter and 
water, which keeps the blood pure and plentiful. I would 
like to recommend Miss Farmar's Cook Book, as containing 
tables and technical teaching which should be well under- 
stood by every woman who provides food for a family. Upon 
her rests a responsibility not recognized as generally as it 
should be, for to a very large extent there is placed in her 
hands the health and growth of those for whom she orders 
food, and she needs knowledge to guide her. She will dis- 
cover that the food which is suitable for cold weather, will 
produce too much heat in the body for warm weather, and 
that certain foods containing water in large quantities are 
much better than the medicines often given in the spring to 
purify the blood; that oatmeal, with its large percentage of 
proteids and fat, is unfit for use in summer, while wheat 
preparations and rice are not as heating for summer use. 
The heat of the body depends upon food very largely and 
not entirely upon the clothing worn. Children who are prop- 
erly fed will not suffer so much from the cold in winter nor 
the heat in summer, nor for that matter will the adult who 
uses the right diet. These are the victims of a lack of 
knowledge on the part of the house mother, or they will rise 
and call her blessed, as the case may be. 



102 WHAT AND HOW 



Keep in the kitchen a small scrub brush for cleaning 
vegetables, and two paring knives. 

Follow this general rule: Boil vegetables grown above 
ground in salted water; boil vegetables grown underground 
without salt until almost done, when it may be added. There 
are exceptions to this rule, which will be noted as they occur 
in the recipes. 

Asparagus. 

Select asparagus with a thick stalk, and save the ends 
cut off for soup. When asparagus first comes it is tender all 
the way down, but when it is tough at the ends, cut it off. 
Tie into a neat bunch, stand in boiling salted water deep 
enough to cover all but the tips, and cook in covered vessel 
for 20 minutes, or less if very tender. Drain carefully, lay 
on small squares of buttered toast, and cover with White 
Sauce, to which has been added enough lemon juice to flavor. 
Or, instead of White Sauce, serve with Sauce Hollandaise or 
melted butter with a small quantity of lemon juice. Asparagus 
may be cooked without tieing in a bunch if laid carefully in the 
water, all tips pointing in same direction. Remove with a 
perforated skimmer. 

Poke Stalks 

can be prepared and cooked as asparagus. They are wholesome 
and inexpensive and extremely good if young and tender. 



BEANS. 

String Beans 

are obtained the year round, since our Southland has been 
brought so near to us by quick transportation. They are 
best, of course, in the early summer when they are procur- 
able in our own vicinity, and are freshly picked. They should 
be snapped into inch lengths after removing the strings and 
cooked in boiling, salted water. If young they should be ten- 
der in 30 or 40 minutes; if old, they will need boiling for an 
hour. Drain and season with butter, pepper and salt. 



VEGETABLES 103 



Butter Beans. 

Butter beans or wax beans are sweeter than the ordinary 
green string beans, distinguishable by their yellow color. Snap, 
string and cook as directed above. A small quantity of cream 
may be added with the seasonings if desired. 

Lima Beans. 

Shell and lay in cold water for half an hour, and boil 
until tender in small quantity of salted water. They will re- 
quire from 20 minutes to half an hour according to size. Drain, 
season with butter, pepper and salt, and serve in very hot dish. 

Dried Lima Beans 

are better for winter use than the canned beans, and should 
be soaked over night in cold water. Drain, wash and boil 
until tender in salted water. Drain, dredge lightly with 
flour, tossing them around in the pan with a fork to avoid 
breaking, add a generous lump of butter, pepper and salt to 
taste, and ]/2 cup milk. When very hot, dish and serve at 
once. 

Boston Baked Beans. 

Pick over 1 quart pea beans, cover with cold water and 
soak over night. In morning drain, cover with fresh water 
and heat slowly, keeping water below boiling point. Cook 
until skins will burst, which is best discovered by taking a 
few on the tip of a spoon, and blowing upon them, when skins 
will burst if cooked long enough. Discard these after testing. 
Drain beans (use the water for soup; it contains considerable 
nourishment). Scald rind of f£ pound fat salt pork, scrape, 
cut off % inch slice and put in bottom of bean pot. Cut through 
rind of remaining piece every )4. inch, making cuts 1 inch deep. 
Put beans in pot and bury pork in beans, leaving rind exposed. 
Mix 1 tablespoon (level) salt, 1 tablespoon molasses, and 3 
tablespoons (level) of sugar; add 1 cup boiling water, and pour 
over beans; then add enough more boiling water to cover 
beans. Cover bean pot, put in oven and bake slowly 6 or 8 
hours, uncovering the last hour to brown and crisp the pork 



104 WHATANDHOW 



rind. Add water as needed. The fine reputation which Boston 
baked beans have gained, has been attributed to the earthen 
bean pot in which they are supposed to be cooked. Equally 
good beans have been eaten where a 5 pound lard pail was 
used. — Miss Farmar. 

Beets. 

Marion Harland says: "It is well to know exactly how 
beets should be boiled; too often the once ruddy vegetable is 
allowed to 'bleed' out its juices until it has a pallid and un- 
inviting appearance," and then she gives the following direc- 
tions : 

Wash the beets, rubbing them carefully with the hand to 
dislodge the dirt, but not hard enough to abrade the skin. 
Drop into cold water as you cleanse them. Put into boiling 
water and cook for an hour. Drain, skin and slice, serve in 
a dish with melted butter poured over them, season with 
salt and pepper. They are best when a tablespoon of vine- 
gar is added to the melted butter. As a further precaution 
against "bleeding" she might have said to allow 2 inches of 
leaf stalks to remain on, and also the tap root. 

Brussels Sprouts. 

Remove the ragged outside leaves, and soak in salt water 
for an hour or two. This, to persuade the tiny insects sure 
to be within the folded leaves to come out. Drain and wash 
thoroughly. Boil in salted water until tender but not soft. 
Try with a wooden toothpick; it will not break the sprouts as 
a fork might. Twenty minutes should be long enough to boil 
them tender. Drain and serve with White Sauce or Hollandaise 
Sauce over them, or they may have simply melted butter and 
lemon juice. As these belong to the cabbage family, see direc- 
tions for boiling cabbage to avoid odor in the house. 

Scalloped Brussels Sprouts. 

After preparing and boiling as above, drain, and put into 
buttered bake dish. Cover with White Sauce and buttered 
crumbs; bake in hot oven until crumbs are brown. 



VEGETABLES 105 



Cabbage. 

It is perfectly possible to boil cabbage without the 
knowledge of any one in the house, if directions be carefully 
followed. Have a large quantity of salted water boiling hard. 
Into this drop the cabbage after cutting into small pieces 
and soaking in cold water one hour. Keep water boiling 
hard, do not cover the pot, unless necessary to start boiling 
after cabbage first goes in, in which case remove lid as soon as 
boiling begins. Boil for 30 minutes when it should be ten- 
der. Drain at once and throw water into the drain outside. 
Chop with sharp knife, season with butter, pepper and salt. 
If pork is desired, boil fat salt pork 1 hour in the water, omit- 
ting salt, before adding the cabbage, and serve pork in centre 
of dish, the cabbage, without chopping, around it. 
Cabbage au Gratin. 

After boiling and chopping cabbage as above, put into 
bake dish, cover with White Sauce and buttered crumbs, and 
brown in hot oven. 

Cabbage Salad or Cold Slaw. 

Select a small and heavy head of cabbage, remove outside 
leaves, and pass through the meat shopper, using the coarse 
cutter. Soak in cold water 1 hour. Chop an equal quantity 
of apples in a wooden bowl with a chopping knife, drain cab- 
bage and add to apples, stir until thoroughly mixed. Add 
Cream Dressing (see Salad Dressing), and serve very cold. 
Or celery may be used instead of apples, and the slaw may 
be served on lettuce leaves. 

Italian Cabbage. 

After boiling, chop into rather large pieces and sprinkle 
with salt and pepper. Into a buttered pudding dish put a 
layer of cabbage; cover with a sprinkling of buttered crumbs, 
and 2 teaspoons Parmesan cheese (grated). Repeat, until 
dish is nearly full, pour over it a cup of White Sauce well 
seasoned with kitchen bouquet and Worcestershire sauce, >^ 
teaspoon each of salt and pepper, and bake y 2 hour in mod- 
erate oven. There should be a layer of crumbs on top of sauce 



106 WHATANDHOW 



Carrots. 

The tiny carrots which appear in attractive bunches in 
our markets in the spring are delicate in flavor, and should 
be a welcome dish on every table. Remove tops, wash, 
scrape and cut into thin slices or neat dice; boil in salted 
water until tender, about % hour. Drain and serve with 
White Sauce. Carrots are an invaluable aid in flavoring soup 
and stock; also for their bright color, are an addition to soup 
if cut attractively. 

Cauliflower. 

In choosing cauliflower shun those heads with dark 
spots. They are not fresh. The leaves should be a bright 
green. As cauliflower belongs to the cabbage family, follow 
directions given for boiling cabbage to avoid odor. The head 
of cauliflower should be pulled apart and soaked for an hour 
in salted water, cold. Boil until tender and drain. Serve 
with a white sauce poured over it. If desired, keep the head 
whole, and serve with sauce as above, but do not neglect the 
soaking in salt water to remove insects. 

Cauliflower au Gratin. 

Separate a head of cauliflower into flowerets, and soak 
for an hour in cold water salted. Boil according to directions 
in preceding recipe. Drain, and arrange in buttered bake 
dish. Pour over it, enough White Sauce to cover, sprinkle 
with buttered crumbs and brown in hot oven. Parmesan 
cheese may be used in this dish if liked. 

Celery. 

When celery comes from the market, wrap in cloth 
wrung out of cold water and keep in cool place until ready 
for use. 

Remove outside stalks (these will do for soup or stewed 
celery), cut off the root, and with a sharp knife cut the stalk 
in half, lengthwise, and then into quarters. Or, if desired, 
separate the pieces, serve only the hearts, and use the coarser 
pieces for stewing. 



VEGETABLES 107 



Stewed Celery I. 
Cut celery into inch pieces, and cook in salted water until 
tender. Drain, and serve with White Sauce. 

Stewed Celery II. 

Cut into lengths like asparagus, boil and serve on toast 
with Hollandaise or White Sauce. 



GREEN CORN. 

Boiled Corn. 

After removing the husks and silk (scrub with a soft 
brush to remove the latter more effectually), drop into plenty 
of boiling water, salted and boil for 8 or 10 minutes. Corn 
is rendered tough by long boiling. Cover with a napkin when 
sending to the table. 

Stewed Corn. 

Cut from the cob with a sharp knife. To avoid cutting 
the hard husk of the grain split the grains and scrape off, or 
cut just a thin shaving from the grains and then scrape. 
Save all the milk or juice of the corn, and put all into a stew- 
pan with a generous lump of butter. If the corn seems dry, 
add enough cream or milk to moisten. Sprinkle with salt 
and pepper, and stir constantly for the first few moments, oc- 
casionally afterwards. It should be done in ten minutes. 
This is a delicious way to serve corn, if carefully done. It 
must not cook too long, and should be about the same con- 
sistency as boiled corn cut from the cob. 

Corn Pudding I. 

4 cups corn, scraped from the cob 1 tablespoon butter 

1 cup cream Salt and pepper 

Mix all together and bake y± hour in a buttered baking 
dish set in a basin of water. Let the oven be moderate, and 
keep dish covered until within 10 minutes of the time when 
it should be done; then uncover and brown. 



108 WHATANDHOW 



Corn Pudding II. 

Split the grains and scrape from the cob 12 ears of corn. 
Beat yolks of four eggs and add to corn. Add 2 tablespoons 
melted butter, salt and pepper, and lastly the stiffly whipped 
whites of eggs. Bake in a buttered bake dish, covered, for 
half an hour. Uncover and brown, serve at once. This is 
practically a souffle, and consequently will fall if allowed 
to stand. 

Corn Fritters. 

Split the grain and scrape the corn from 12 ears of corn, or 
it may be grated instead. To 4 cups of this pulp, add 2 eggs 
well beaten, 2 tablespoons flour and enough milk to make a soft 
batter. Add salt and pepper and 1 tablespoon melted Crisco 
or butter substitute. Bake on a griddle. These will be tough 
if too much flour is used and the quantity of milk required 
depends upon the juiciness of the corn. If desired they may be 
fried in deep fat dropped from a spoon, in which case the batter 
must be thick. 

Succotash 

is a combination of boiled corn, cut from cob, and young lima 
beans previously boiled. Season well with butter, salt and 
pepper. 

Cucumbers. 
Cucumber, in its raw state, must be used fresh and crisp. 
It is not by any means so difficult of digestion nor so dan- 
gerous as many people imagine. Keep it on the ice until 
ready to use. Peel, cut in very thin slices, or with a criss- 
cross potato cutter, and leave in cold water for an hour or 
so. Drain and serve on lettuce leaves with French Dressing, 
which should not be poured over until just as it is to be served. 
If allowed to remain in the vinegar it will be tough, lose all 
its crispness and become most unwholesome. 

Fried Cucumber. 

Peel, and leave in cold water an hour. Slice lengthwise 
in thick slices^like egg plant. Wipe dry, egg and crumb and 
fry_m^deep fat. 



VEGETABLES 100 



Fried Egg Plant. 

Peel and cut into slices }£ inch thick, egg and crumb. 
Set aside in a cold place for at least an hour before frying. This 
gives the crumb coating time to harden which prevents the 
grease from soaking in. Fry in deep fat and drain in a hot colan- 
der before serving. There are few persons who serve this vege- 
table as it should be. These directions cannot be too carefully 
adhered to. 

Baked Egg Plant. 

Cook an egg plant in boiling salted water for 10 minutes. 
When cold, cut it in half lengthwise, and with a spoon care- 
fully remove the pulp, leaving a wall nearly an inch thick. 
Melt a tablespoon of butter, mince very fine, ]4. tablespoon 
onion, and cook these together until onion is soft but not 
brown. Add to pulp which should be chopped fine. Now 
add 1 cup soft bread crumbs. Season with salt and pepper 
and moisten with a little milk or cream. Beat 1 egg, add 
to mixture, and refill the two egg plant halves. Cover with 
buttered crumbs and bake 25 minutes in hot oven. 

Scalloped Egg Plant. 

Pare and cut into dice. Soak for an hour in cold water, 
salted. Parboil for 20 minutes, drain and put into a buttered 
bake dish in layers with buttered crumbs between. Sprinkle 
each layer with salt and pepper, and strew with green peppers 
chopped very fine. When dish is full, pour over it 2 table- 
spoons cream, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake y£ hour, 
covered. Uncover and brown. 

Lettuce. 

As soon as lettuce comes from the market, separate and 
wash each leaf carefully. Bear in mind the fact that often 
poisonous powders are used on vegetables to destroy insects, 
and especially all uncooked vegetables need thorough wash- 
ing. Tie in a piece of cheese cloth, or slip into a salt bag, and 
keep in the refrigerator near the ice. It is always ready for 
use, and will keep crisp and fresh for several days. 



110 WHATANDHOW 



Boiled Hominy. 

To ensure hominy white after cooking it is necessary to 
use a saucepan, preferably white enamel, which is not used 
for other purposes, unless it be for articles akin to hominy. 
Soak over night, drain and cook in salted, boiling water until 
tender. Cook slowly, stirring frequently to prevent burning. 
Add water when necessary. It will require several hours. 

Breakfast Hominy. 

Samp or grits, as it is called at the South, or breakfast 
hominy, is nourishing, and can be used in a variety of ways, 
requiring only thorough cooking to make it one of the best 
vegetables for use all the year round. Though classed by 
some writers among the cereals, it is in reality a vegetable, 
being simply corn dried and prepared in a special manner. 
Samp is hominy, ground. To cook, use 1 cup hominy to 4 
cups water. Wash well, and soak for two hours. Drain. 
Stir into the boiling water and cook 1 hour in a double boiler 
stirring frequently. If it seems too dry, add milk. Season 
with salt. 

Hominy Pudding. 

1 cup cold boiled breakfast hominy 4 eggs 

1 pint milk 1 tablespoon melted butter 

% teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon sugar 

Add milk gradually to hominy and beat until smooth. 
Add other ingredients, the well beaten eggs last. Pour into 
a buttered pudding dish and bake for % hour in moderate 
oven. 

Hominy Croquettes. 

2 cups cold boiled breakfast 1 tablespoon melted butter 

hominy 2 eggs, beaten light 

Salt and pepper 

Work the butter into the hominy. When free from all 
lumps, add the eggs and seasoning, and mix well. With floured 
hands shape into small cylindrical croquettes and set aside 
to stiffen. Egg and crumb, put in a very cold place for 2 hours 
to harden, and fry in deep fat. 



VEGETABLES 111 



Stewed Mushrooms. 



Wash and peel the Targe mushrooms, the buttons need 
only scrubbing with a soft vegetable brush. Remove steins, 
scrape them clean, and cut into thin slices. Break the larger 
mushrooms into pieces, keep the buttons whole, unless they 
are very large, when they had best be cut. Melt 2 table- 
spoons butter in a pan (this is for 1 quart mushrooms), put 
in the mushrooms and sliced stems, shake well until they be- 
gin to cook, sprinkle with salt, cover closely and allow them 
to simmer slowly for 5 minutes, shaking the pan two or three 
times. Now dredge well with flour, tossing with a fork to 
mix well, and add 1 cup of cream or rich milk. Cook slowly 
5 minutes longer when they should be tender and the sauce 
creamy and smooth. Serve on toast, cut into neat pieces 
and crustless. A dash of nutmeg is an improvement. 

Baked Mushrooms. 

For this select 12 large cup shaped mushrooms, wash 
peel and remove stems. Scrape stems, and cut into bits. 
Break into very small pieces 2 mushrooms and add to stems. 
Put the 12 caps into a shallow buttered dish, cap side up. 
Into each cap, put some of the broken bits, a few drops onion 
juice and a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Dot over with 
butter, dredge with flour and pour over all, nearly 1 cup cream. 
Bake in a hot oven 10 minutes. Serve on toast with the sauce 
poured over. They should be basted once with the cream, and 
if the sauce seems too thick add more cream. 



Okra. 

The okra is a vegetable that deserves to be better known. 
Good judgment needs to be used in buying it, as it grows 
woody in fibre if not picked while young. We have, in this 
market, two varieties, one with a smooth skin, the other with 
a corrugated skin; either one is good, provided they are tender 
and freshly picked. Select small okra, if over 4 or 5 inches long 
they are probably old and tough. 



112 WHATANDHOW 



Stewed Okra I. 

Wash well, and boil in water to cover; add a teaspoon 
of salt to each pint of water. Cook slowly but at a steady 
boil until okra is tender, 20 minutes to % hour should be ample 
time. Pour off the water, add a little milk, butter, pepper 
and salt to taste. Now add a few drops of vinegar, just enough 
to flavor the sauce; and serve hot. 

Stewed Okra II. 

Cut off the ends and discard them; cut the okras in % 
inch slices, and proceed according to recipe above. 

Okra and Tomato. 

Cook sliced okra and tomatoes cut into pieces together 
20 minutes, or until both vegetables are stewed. Use equal 
quantities. Season with butter, pepper and salt. 

Okra Creole Style. 

1 doz. okras 1 tablespoon butter 

3 tomatoes, large 1 onion 

1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 green pepper 

Cut off the ends of okras, peel and cut into pieces the 
tomatoes, saving all the juice Chop the pepper, after seed- 
ing it, also the onion. Cook onion and pepper in the butter 
6 minutes, without browning; add the tomatoes and okras 
and simmer 20 minutes, seasoning with salt and pepper to 
taste. Sprinkle with the parsley just before dishing it. This 
is a fine meal of itself, and an excellent luncheon for a hot day. 

Stewed Onions. 
Peel onions and lay in cold water for half an hour. Boil 
in plenty of water until tender; if young they should cook in 
20 minutes; if old and large, it is better to cut them in quar- 
ters before cooking, and to change the water when they are 
half done. When you are sure they are done (for a half cooked 
onion is most unwholesome), drain, and serve with White 
Sauce, cooking the onions slowly in the sauce for 10 minutes. 



VEGETABLES 113 



Baked Onions I. 

Peel onions, lay in cold water for an hour, boil for 10 
minutes and drain. Arrange in buttered pudding dish, 
sprinkle with salt and pepper and pour over a white sauce 
to which a beaten egg has been added. Remember that the 
egg will curdle, if put in while the sauce is hot; allow it to 
cool, or add very gradually to the egg. Sprinkle with but- 
tered crumbs and bake 20 minutes in moderate oven, with 
a cover over the dish, remove cover and brown. For this 
select small onions, and the amount of sauce needed will de- 
pend upon the size of your dish, the onions must be well covered 
with the sauce. 

Baked Onions II. 

Cook tender in boiling water, changed once after 15 min- 
utes, drain and put into shallow baking pan. Melt a table- 
spoon butter in 1 cup stock, season with salt and pepper and 
pour over the onions. Cook in hot oven until onions are 
brown, lift out with a perforated spoon, and put into dish 
in which they are to be served. Thicken the gravy with a 
little flour, 1 tablespoon to each cup, rubbed smooth in cold 
water; color the sauce a good brown with kitchen bouquet. 
Add this carefully, as too much will give an unpleasant 
flavor. Add ]4. teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, and pour over 
the onions. 

Onion Souffle. 
Boil six or eight onions until tender, and chop very fine. 
Add 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon cream, salt and a dash 
of cayenne. To a cup of White Sauce, well seasoned, add % 
cup bread crumbs, 1 teaspoon chopped parsley and yolk of 1 
egg beaten. Mix with the onion mixture and fold in the stiffly 
beaten whites of 3 eggs. Put into buttered dish and brown. 
"Hostess of To-day." 

Green Peas. 

Have salted water boiling on the stove, drop the peas in and 
cook twenty minutes if very young. (Consult time table for 
cooking on page 20.) Use a small quantity of water to cook 



114 WHATANDHOW 



them in. When tender, drain, and season with butter, pep- 
per and salt. A small quantity of sugar should be boiled with 
them, if they are not perfectly fresh. A sprig of mint is a 
delightful addition. Save the water you drain off. It will be 
useful for soup if you have a few peas left over. 

Peas, with Cream Sauce. 

Canned peas, or peas not entirely fresh and tender, may 
be served with a cream sauce, ^ cup to 1 pint peas. Winter 
peas, which can be purchased in our markets, soaked and 
ready to boil, are much improved by the addition of the sauce. 

Canned Peas. 

Canned peas should be taken from the can, rinsed in 
cold water, drained and exposed to the air for at least an hour. 
Let them heat in hot water, heating the water gradually with 
peas in it, so that they will heat gradually without cooking. 
This method avoids mashing the peas which is inevitable if they 
must be stirred while heating. Drain, season with butter, salt 
and pepper. 

Stuffed Peppers. 

Cut the stems from green peppers, so they will stand up- 
right. Cut a slice from the end, remove seeds and membrane, 
using scissors, and fill with following mixture: 

1 onion chopped fine 4 tablespoons chopped chicken 

1 tablespoon butter 2 tablespoons chopped ham 

4 tablespoons chopped mushrooms 2 tablespoons bread crumbs 
Salt and pepper 

Cook onion in butter until golden brown; add other in- 
gredients and cool the mixture. Stand the peppers on end in 
a baking pan, pour about them a cup of chicken stock, or 
plain water, and bake for half an hour. This mixture will 
fill 6 peppers. 

Sauce for Stuffed Peppers. 

Melt 1 tablespoon butter, add 1 tablespoon flour and rub 
smooth. Stir in 1 cup chicken stock and cook until thick. 
Scald 2 tablespoons cream with 1 slice of onion, remove onion 



VEGETABLES 115 



and add cream to sauce. Season well with salt and pepper. 
Chop a pimento into very small pieces, add to the sauce and 
pour around the peppers when ready to serve. 

Stuffed Peppers. 

are attractive served on rounds of buttered toast on indi- 
vidual plates with the sauce poured around. If baked in 
stock, the sauce may be made by thickening and seasoning 
the gravy in the pan. If served without sauce, place on the 
buttered toast a ring cut from a red pepper and stand the 
stuffed pepper on this. 

Peppers with Sweet Bread Stuffing. 

Make 1 cup White Sauce, using chicken stock or gravy 
instead of milk. Make a mixture of sweet breads cut into 
bits, finely chopped chicken and mushrooms chopped, equal 
quantity of each. There should be 1>2 cups. x4dd to the 
sauce and season with salt and pepper. Fill 6 peppers with 
the mixture, cover with buttered crumbs and proceed ac- 
cording to directions given in recipe for stuffed peppers. 

Boiled Pace I. 

Put into a double boiler 1 cup rice well washed, 1 cup milk, 
2 cups water and yi teaspoon salt. Allow it to cook without 
stirring until rice has absorbed all the liquid. By this time it 
should be done, but if not add a little milk and continue cooking, 
it should be stiff enough to turn out on a dish. 

Boiled Rice II. 

Wash rice through several waters until the last water 
is not cloudy. Boil rapidly, so that the motion of the water 
will keep the grains tossing all the time Do not stir unless 
just after you put the rice into the water, it ceases boiling 
for a while, in which case keep lifting the rice from the bot- 
tom of the kettle until boiling begins again. Have plenty 
of salt in the water. When rice is cooked, drain and put into 
the oven in the colander to dry. Prepared in this way, each 



116 WHAT AND HOW 



grain is separate from the others, and should be perfectly dry. 
a contrast to the usual soggy mass served under the name of 
boiled rice. 

Moulded Rice. 

1 cup rice, boiled in salted water 1 teaspoon onion juice 

1 tablespoon butter 2 eggs, beaten separately 

Drain rice, and dry in oven. Stir in the butter and the 
beaten yolks, season with onion juice, salt and pepper. Stir 
over the fire in bowl set in hot water, % minutes, using fork 
to avoid breaking rice grains. Press into a round bottom 
bowl to mould. Turn out on a platter, cover with meringue 
made of whites of eggs whipped stiff and dry, and brown in 
oven. Serve very hot. 

Spanish Rice. 

2 large green peppers, sweet 4 large tomatoes 

% cup rice 2 large onions 

Salt and pepper 

Wash rice thoroughly, remove seeds and membranes 
from pepper, peel onions and tomatoes. Chop onions and 
peppers, which may be easily done in the meat chopper, using 
coarse cutter; cut tomatoes in pieces. Put all ingredients into 
a stew pan and cook until rice is tender, adding water when 
necessary. Watch carefully that it does not burn. When 
ready to serve, add a generous lump of butter. If canned 
tomatoes are used, ]4. can or 1 pint will equal 4 fresh tomatoes. 
This will cook quite as well in a double boiler, eliminating any 
danger of scorching. 

Radishes. 

Radishes should be scraped, the leaves cut off except one 
which furnishes a bit of green as a garnish to the dish, and 
served on crushed ice. 

Radish Tulips. 

Beginning at the root end, with a sharp pointed knife, 
make 5 or 6 incisions running lengthwise almost the length 
of the radish, cutting through the skin only. Loosen the 
skin between each cut, and lay in ice water; the sections will 



VEGETABLES 117 



fold back, resembling the petals of a tulip. Use the round, 
red radish. Serve on a bed of water cress or celery tops. 

Spinach. 

Wash spinach through at least seven waters, to make 
sure that no dirt or sand remains. Pick over, discarding 
stems and withered leaves. Boil 20 minutes, using no water 
except that clinging to the leaves after washing. If heated 
slowly, it will develop plenty of its own juices to cook it in. 
Sprinkle with salt. This applies only to young spinach, 
which comes to the market in early spring. Old spinach has 
a stronger flavor, and is better cooked in water. Drain well 
in a colander, pressing with the back of a saucer until there 
is no water left to be squeezed out. With a sharp knife, chop 
until very fine. Return to the fire to heat again, season with 
butter, pepper and salt, and mound on a hot dish. Have 
ready an egg hard boiled. Rub the yolk through a fine sieve, 
covering the top of the mound with the fine yellow powder, 
and cut the whites into points to arrange around the base. 
To make the points, cut the egg in half lengthwise, remove 
the yolk, and then cut each half into four strips. 

Or, serve with White Sauce, or Hollandaise Sauce poured 
over it. Keep the spinach a bright green, by boiling in uncover- 
ed kettle. 

Spinach a la Creme. 

After spinach is prepared, boiled, drained and chopped 
according to directions in preceding recipe, turn into hot pan 
with 1 tablespoon butter to 1 pint of the spinach; toss lightly 
with a fork, and dredge with flour, about >^ tablespoon. Add 
Yi cup cream and cook three minutes, or until the taste of the 
flour is cooked out. Add salt and pepper and four gratings 
of nutmeg. Serve very hot. 

Spinach Souffle. 

When spinach is chopped fine, add a tablespoon butter, 
salt and pepper, and the beaten yolks of 2 eggs. This quan- 
tity is for 1 pint spinach measured after chopping Cool. 



118 WHAT AND HOW 



When cold, beat into it % cup cream and the stiffly beaten 
whites of 3 eggs. Turn into buttered bake dish, and bake in 
a hot oven until a light brown. Serve at once. 

Slimmer Squash. 

Wash and cut into small pieces, 2 summer squashes, 
medium size. Boil for 25 minutes or until tender. Drain, 
and put through a vegetable press, squeezing gently at first 
to extract the water, which, of course, should be done over a 
second bowl. The squash will be good only on condition that 
it is perfectly dry. Therefore squeeze the water from it thor- 
oughly. Return to fire, just long enough to get well heated, 
adding a tablespoon of butter, and salt and pepper to taste. 

Tomatoes. 

To remove skins from tomatoes, pour boiling water over 
a few at a time, pouring it off at once. Cover with cold water, 
and the skins will readily slip off. Do not allow them to remain 
in the boiling water, or they will be soft and watery. If for 
salad or serving cold, chill on the ice. 

Stewed Tomatoes. 

Peel and cut up 1 quart tomatoes, measured after cutting. 
Cook in an agate or aluminum sauce pan, never in tin, and 
do not use a tin spoon to stir them with. Stew rapidly for 
20 minutes and season with 1 teaspoon of sugar, salt and pep- 
per to taste. Rub together 1 tablespoon each flour and butter 
until thoroughly incorporated, and stir into the tomatoes. 
A bit of bay leaf and a slice of onion cooked with the tomatoes, 
will add a pleasant flavor, but these must be removed before 
other seasonings are added. 

Scalloped Tomatoes. 

Grease a pudding dish, and put into it a layer of peeled 
and sliced tomatoes; cover with a thin layer of buttered 
crumbs, sprinkle with salt, pepper, 1 teaspoon minced onion, 
and 1 tablespoon chopped sweet pepper. Repeat until dish 



VEGETABLES 119 



is full, pour over it a cup of White Sauce or soup stock, and 
cover with buttered crumbs. Bake in a hot oven 15 minutes, 
covered. Uncover and brown. While the onion and pepper 
are a great addition to this dish, they may be omitted with- 
out spoiling it If tomatoes seem acid, and canned tomatoes 
will, beyond doubt, use a small quantity of sugar over them 
before covering with crumbs— a teaspoon to each layer. 

Baked Tomatoes. 

Cut a slice from the tops of 6 large tomatoes, or 12 small 
ones. With a spoon loosen the pulp on top, so that the sea- 
sonings may reach the centre. Put a small piece of butter, 
]/ 2 teaspoon sugar, and % teaspoon salt on each tomato, and 
sprinkle with pepper. Bake in a hot oven about 15 minutes, 
or until they are slightly brown on top. A deep pie plate 
(enamel) is the best dish to bake these in. Add 1 tablespoon 
water to juice in the dish, and serve over tomatoes. 

Stuffed Baked Tomatoes. 

Remove a slice from stem erid of 6 tomatoes, or if small, 
use 12. With a spoon, carefully remove pulp and seeds; if 
you break through the skin, use the damaged tomato for 
something else, and replace it with another one. Drain oft 
the water, and mix the pulp with an equal quantity of fine, 
soft bread crumbs. Season well with salt, pepper and onion 
juice, or add chopped onion, yi teaspoon to each tomato. Put 
Y /2 teaspoon sugar in each shell, and fill with the mixture. 
On the top of each put }4 teaspoon butter and bake 20 min- 
utes in a hot oven. 

Tomatoes Stuffed with Corn. 

After preparing tomatoes as directed in preceding recipe, 
add to the pulp, instead of crumbs, an equal quantity of corn 
cut from the cob, season with salt and pepper, sprinkle with 
buttered crumbs, and bake 20 minutes in hot oven. 

Tomatoes Stuffed With Rice. 

Fill tomato shells prepared as directed, with cold boiled 
rice and the pulp mixed together and seasoned with salt and 



120 WHATANDHOW 



pepper. On each tomato thus filled, put % teaspoon of but- 
ter, and a thick covering of grated cheese. Put back the top 
for a covering, and bake yi hour, covered. 

Broiled Tomatoes. 

The best place to broil tomatoes is under the flame of 
the gas stove oven. Remove the pan and broiler. Cut toma- 
toes in half crosswise, and if these halves *will not stand level, 
take small slice from the under side. Sprinkle well with salt 
and pepper, crumb, egg and crumb, put on an enamelled pie 
plate and slip under the flame for 6 or 8 minutes, or until they 
are slightly brown and cooked through. If they should show 
signs of scorching, turn down the lights. 

Fried Tomatoes I. 

Cut into rather thick slices without peeling, season with 
salt and pepper, and fry in some good dripping or bacon fat, 
first dredging with flour. When brown on both sides, re- 
move to a hot dish while making the sauce. If there is not 
enough fat left in the pan to make a tablespoon, add more. 
With the wire spoon, rub into this 1 tablespoon flour, and 
let it brown before adding 1 cup milk. The sauce should be 
smooth and creamy, and of a light brown color. If not dark 
enough, use % teaspoon kitchen bouquet. Season with salt 
and pepper. 

Fried Tomatoes II. 

Cut into thick slices, crumb, egg and crumb, and set 
aside in a cold place for an hour. Fry in deep fat, tested for 
temperature according to directions given for deep fat frying. 

Fried Tomatoes III. 

Tomatoes may be fried under the flame of the oven light 
in gas stove. Slice, dust with salt and pepper, and place on 
flat pan or pie plate, which has been well greased. Dredge 
lightly with flour, and put a tiny piece of butter on each slice. 
Serve with a creamy white sauce. 



VEGETABLES 121 



POTATOES. 



Baked Potatoes. 

Select medium sized potatoes, as nearly as possible of 
the same shape and size. To bake properly, the oven should 
be very hot in order to change the starch to dextrine which 
makes the baked potato more easily digested than the boiled. 
This result is not attained if the oven is cool. Forty to forty- 
five minutes should be ample time for roasting fairly large 
potatoes, and if not to be served at once, break the skin of each 
one to allow the steam to escape. Otherwise they will become 
soggy. Some authorities recommend piercing each potato 
two or three times with a fork before baking; I have not found 
this so good a plan as breaking the skin afterwards, an operation 
easily accomplished by taking the potato in a clean cloth and 
squeezing it between the fingers. Do not press hard enough 
to push the potato from the skin. Scrub well with your vege- 
table scrubbing brush before baking on the grate of your oven. 
Some persons use a baking pan, which is not necessary if your 
oven is as clean as it should be. 

Boiled Potatoes. 

Select potatoes of uniform size. Pare neatly and drop at 
once into cold water to prevent discoloration. When pota- 
toes are old, in the late winter, let them remain in the water 
for an hour or two before boiling; new potatoes need only 
half an hour. Cook in boiling water, adding y£ tablespoon 
salt when nearly done. Do not test with a fork, as this is 
liable to break them. A metal skewer is the better article 
for this purpose. When done, drain well, return to the fire 
in a cool place to dry out, leaving the kettle lid open a crack 
for the escape of steam. When dry and mealy looking, serve 
at once with Parsley Butter poured over them, or without the 
sauce if desired. 

Parsley Butter 

is melted butter with a generous allowance of very finely 
chopped parsley stirred into it. 



122 WHAT AND HOW 



Potatoes Boiled in Jackets. 

The Irish way of boiling potatoes with their jackets on 
is a wise one, inasmuch as close to the skin lie valuable salts 
which are lost in the paring off of the skin. There is no way 
comparable to this for obtaining a mealy boiled potato. Re- 
move a "ribbon" yi inch wide all around the potato, put into 
boiling water and cook 20 minutes, or until tested with a skewer 
you know that they are done to the very centre. Drain. In 
the left hand have a small cloth folded in several thicknesses. 
Lay a potato upon this; with a knife pull off the skin from one 
side, turn over and remove the other skin; keep very hot in the 
oven until ready to serve. Sprinkle lightly with salt, after 
draining, and allow them to dry off before peeling. 

Mashed Potatoes. 

Use a ricer or vegetable press to mash potatoes rather 
than the old-fashioned wooden pestle, to avoid lumps. To 6 
potatoes, boiled and dried according to directions given above, 
allow one large tablespoon butter and three tablespoons milk. 
Heat milk and butter in enameled bowl, and squeeze potatoes 
through ricer into it, add salt to taste and a dash of pepper, 
beat with a wooden spoon until light and creamy, set in the 
oven a few moments until very hot, and pile lightly on a hot 
dish. 

Kilcannon Potatoes. 

To potatoes prepared as above, add enough parsley 
chopped very fine, to give the potatoes a decided green tinge. 
This is an Irish recipe, and is recommended as an accompani- 
ment to cold meat. Allow at least two heaping tablespoons of 
the parsley to quantity of potato in preceding recipe. 

Duchess Potatoes. 

To 2 cups mashed potatoes, add 1 tablespoon butter, the 
yolks of 2 eggs and 2 tablespoons milk. Beat until light and 
creamy, fold in whipped whites, pile lightly on a well greased 
platter, brush over with beaten egg diluted with 2 teaspoons 
water and brown in hot oven. Before adding the yolks of 



VEGETABLES 123 



eggs take out a small quantity, mix with a little of the white 
and use for brushing over. Two teaspoons of each will be 
sufficient with the water. 

Potato Omelet. 

Prepare according to preceding recipe, adding the beaten 
whites of eggs last. Pour into well greased omelet pan, cook 
slowly until crust forms on bottom. Turn over as other 
omelets. It will be necessary to raise edge of omelet and drop 
into pan a teaspoon of butter, allowing it to run under the 
omelet to prevent burning. This is to be done when the omelet 
begins to set around edges. 

Plainfield Potatoes. 

Select small round potatoes, pare neatly, boil until ten- 
der, but not falling apart; let them cool. Melt 1 tablespoon 
bacon or sausage dripping in a shallow baking dish, or pie 
plate. When very hot lay potatoes in and baste them with 
the fat. Put into a very hot oven, and cook until well browned, 
basting frequently with the fat. If a gas stove is in use, brown 
under the oven lights, first removing the broiler. 

Potato Gone. 

Arrange mashed and well seasoned potatoes in a mound, 
on a greased platter. With a spoon make a hole in the top, 
large enough to hold 1 cup of sauce, made of }A cup melted 
butter, 4 tablespoons grated cheese, yolks 2 eggs beaten light, 
pepper and salt. Brush the mound with melted butter, sprinkle 
with crumbs and brown. 

Potatoes on Half Shell. 

Bake 6 large potatoes. Cut in half lengthwise, and re- 
move carefully from the skin. Mash the potatoes by press- 
ing through the ricer, add one tablespoon butter and three 
taolespoons milk, salt and pepper to taste. Whip whites of 
two eggs until dry and stiff, fold into the mixture and refill 
shells. Brush over with the yolk of one egg beaten with two 



IU WHATANDHOW 



teaspoons water, and brown in a very hot oven. Grated 
cheese may be sprinkled over the potatoes instead of using 
the egg. 

Potato Souffie. 
To 1 pint riced potatoes, add 3 cups hot milk in which a 
tablespoon of butter has been melted. Beat well and season 
with salt and pepper. Beat 4 eggs very light and whip into 
the potato mixture. Pour into a deep baking dish, and bake 
in a hot oven until well set and browned. "Well set" means 
the eggs cooked and combined with the milk. 

Potato Pudding. 

Slice raw potatoes in thin slices and lay in cold water 1 
hour. Drain and dry. Put a layer of this in the bottom of 
a greased baking dish or casserole. Sprinkle with salt and 
pepper and a little chopped onion. Repeat until dish is nearly 
full. Pour over enough milk to cover well, and add a gen- 
erous lump of butter. Bake in a very slow oven two hours, 
covered with a close fitting lid until milk is absorbed, un- 
cover and brown. This dish will be ruined if the milk is al- 
lowed to boil. It may be necessary to add more milk at the 
end of the first hour. Cold boiled potatoes may be used instead 
of the raw. The ideal place to cook this, as well as all other 
puddings and custards, is in the fireless cooker, where there 
can be no danger of the liquid boiling. 

Potato Balls. 

Cut with a French vegetable cutter into balls. Put into 
boiling water and cook until tender, testing with a wooden 
toothpick. Drain and dry off. Sprinkle with salt, and serve 
with Parsley Butter, or White Sauce. Or, lay in cold water 
for an hour, drain, wipe dry, and fry in deep fat as directed 
for French fried potatoes. 

New Potatoes. 

should be scraped, never pared, or they may be boiled with their 
skins on and peeled afterwards. This method is very satisfac- 
tory and a labor saver. Follow directions for boiled potatoes, 
serving over them either White Sauce or Parsley Butter. 



VEGETABLES 125 



Hashed Brown Potatoes. 



Fry 4 slices bacon (or enough to give you at least 2 table- 
spoons fat) remove from the pan and keep hot. Have c 2 cups 
cold boilded or baked potatoes cut into tiny dice, turn into 
the hissing hot fat and toss over and over until potatoes arc 
brown and well coated with fat. Push back to a cooler place 
on the stove and allow them to cook slowly until crusted under- 
neath; folded over like an omelet and serve at once, with the 
bacon. 

lyonnaise Potatoes. 

Fry 2 sliced onions in 2 tablespoons dripping or bacon 
fat; when soft but not brown, add 2 cups cold cooked potatoes, 
cut into neat dice. Toss with a fork until hot, but do not allow 
them to brown. When thoroughly heated add a teaspoon finely 
chopped parsley, stir well, and serve at once. If any fat remains 
in the pan, remove potatoes with perforated spoon to avoid 
serving a greasy dish. Strain fat into your dripping can. 

Hashed Creamed Potatoes. 

To 1 cup White Sauce, add 2 cups cold boiled or baked 
potatoes cut into tiny dice. Use an omelet pan large enough 
to have the mixture not over 1 inch thick. After mixing 
well, set pan where it is not very hot, and cook slowly until 
a crust forms underneath. Raise the edge and slip under it a 
half tablespoon butter, put over the hot fire again to brown, 
and fold over as an omelet. Not only the sauce but also the 
potatoes must be well seasoned with salt and pepper. 

Creamed Potatoes. 

Cook cold boiled or baked potatoes cut into neat dice 
with White Sauce .and add pepper, salt and chopped parsley- 
Raw potatoes may be cut into dice, boiled and mixed with 
White Sauce, but are not so good nor so easily made as the 
cold cooked ones are. The dice lose their shape in boiling, 
and have an entirely different flavor. 



126 WHAT AND HOW 



Potatoes au Gratin. 

Put creamed potatoes in well greased pudding dish, cover 
with buttered crumbs and bake in moderate oven long 
enough to heat through and brown crumbs. Grated cheese 
may be sprinkled between layers of potatoes and over top 
before crumbs go on. 

Potato Cakes. 

Form cold mashed potatoes into small flat cakes, roll in 
flour and fry in omelet pan in a small quantity fat, preferably 
bacon or ham drippings. 

Saute Potatoes. 

Cut cold boiled potatoes into slices. Sprinkle with salt 
and pepper, and brown on both sides in hot fat. 

French Fried Potatoes. 

Peel potatoes, cut into strips lengthwise and lay in cold 
water for at least an hour. Drain and wipe dry. This is 
best accomplished by spreading a clean towel on the table, 
laying the pieces of potato on it, and covering with another 
towel. Pat dry. Any moisture remaining on the potatoes 
will cause trouble when it comes into contact with the hot 
fat. 

Have ready a kettle with plenty of Crisco or other fat, 
very hot. Test according to directions for frying raw material. 
Drop in the potatoes a few at a time, and fry to a golden brown. 
Drain on absorbent paper to remove all grease, and serve on 
a hot dish garnished with a sprig or two of parsley. Make very 
sure that your fat is just the right temperature, if too hot, the 
potatoes will brown before cooking through. 

Saratoga Chips 

are prepared and fried just as the French fried, except that 
they are cut into very thin slices instead of strips. 

Latticed or Waffled Potatoes 

are cut with a little instrument which comes for the purpose, 
and are prepared and fried as above. 



VEGETABLES 127 



SWEET POTATOES. 

Baked Sweet Potatoes. 

Bake according to directions given for baking white pota- 
toes, allowing more time. 

Boiled Sweet Potatoes. 

Only when sweet potatoes are new are they suitable for 
serving boiled. In the winter they may be boiled, but need 
glazing or thorough drying in the oven to remove the water. 
Boil with skins on, and remove these before serving. They 
may be peeled before boiling, but it is not easy to do. 

Mashed Sweet Potatoes. 

Boil, peel and press through the ricer. Season with butter, 
pepper and salt, and moisten with a little hot cream or milk. 
Beat until light, set bowl in oven to heat the potatoes, and 
pile lightly on a hot dish. Or, you may serve them simply as 
they come from the ricer, in which case they must be seasoned 
after serving on the plates. 

Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style. 

Bake 6 medium sized sweet potatoes, cut in half length- 
wise, and scoop out inside. Mash, through the ricer, add 2 
tablespoons (level) butter and cream to moisten. Season with 
salt and a little lemon juice. Refill skins and bake 5 minutes 
in hot oven. — Miss Farmar's Cooking School Book. 

Sweet Potatoes, Glazed. 

Boil, peel and cut into thick slices lengthwise. Lay in 
an enameled pie plate or shallow baking dish, with slices of 
bacon. Cover with brown sugar and cook in hot oven until 
bacon is crisp, remove it and baste potatoes with the fat until 
brown. Bacon fat can be laid over the potatoes with a knife, 
instead of using the slices. 



128 WHATANDHOW 



Sweet Potato Pudding. 

1 pint boiled and mashed sweet 4 eggs 

potato yi teaspoon grated nutmeg 

}/2 cup butter Juice and grated rind 1 lemon 

1 cup powdered sugar A dash of nutmeg. 

Cream butter and sugar, add the beaten yolks of eggs, 
the flavorings and the sweet potatoes, fold in the whites of 
eggs, whipped stiff and dry, turn into buttered bake dish, and 
cook in hot oven until brown and well set, which will take 
about 15 minutes. 



Sweet Potatoes ail Gratin. 

Parboil potatoes 10 minutes, peel and slice. Put a layer 
in the bottom of a greased dish, sprinkle with brown sugar, 
salt and pepper, and dot with butter. Sprinkle lightly with 
fine crumbs. Repeat, making the top layer of buttered 
crumbs. Pour in 4 tablespoons hot water, cover closely and 
bake 14. hour. Uncover and brown. 



Sweet Potato Puff. 

2 cups boiled and riced sweet 1 cup milk 

potato 2 tablespoons melted butter 

3 eggs Pepper and salt to taste 

Beat eggs, add milk, butter and potatoes. Beat hard 
and season. Bake in greased bake dish 20 minutes, or until 
brown. 

Sweet Potato Balls. 

Cut with ball cutter, and lay in shallow baking dish, or 
pie plate. Make a syrup of 4 tablespoons molasses and 2 
teaspoons of butter boiled 5 minutes; pour over the balls and 
bake covered until balls are tender. Uncover and brown. 
Or, make the syrup of >£ cup brown sugar, and 4 tablespoons 
water, boiled 3 minutes, add 1 tablespoon butter, and pour 
over the balls. This syrup is richer and more delicate in flavor 
than the first. Remove from syrup and serve. The syrup may 
be used a second time. This dish may be prepared, set aside, 
reheated and served when desired. 



VEGETABLES 129 



Savoy Potatoes. 

Boil, peel, and cut into slices across, 3 large sweet pota- 
toes. Lay in shallow baking dish, dredge with 2 teaspoons 
flour, sprinkle with 1 teaspoon cinnamon, pinch of salt, and 
3 tablespoons sugar. Mix 3 tablespoons cream, with >£ cup 
hot water, pour it over the potatoes and bake with a close 
cover >2 hour in a moderate oven. 



130 WHAT AND HOW 



CHAPTER XI 

SALADS. 

Of little nutritive value in themselves, the salad plants, 
lettuce, watercress, celery, etc., are of distinct value to the 
system inasmuch as in their preparation into salads, in com- 
bination with fruit, vegetables, fish or meat combined with 
the olive oil which enters so largely into their proper dressing, 
they furnish nourishment, are refreshing in hot weather espe- 
cially, and on account of the mineral salts and large percentage 
of water, are excellent blood purifiers. They should not be 
prepared too long before using, for their charm lies in their 
crispness and icy coldness (see lettuce page 109) and must not 
remain in a warm place after mixing, as the dressing will dis- 
integrate and the lettuce wilt. Salad is often dressed in a 
bowl at the table, in which case the vinegar should be poured 
over last. Rub the bowl with a cut onion and have it very 
cold. Left over vegetables should be marinated separately 
before combining in salad, and every opportunity should be 
grasped to use these vegetables in this manner. 



SALAD DRESSINGS. 

French Dressing. 

In a small jar with a screw top and a rubber ring, put ^ 
an onion, ]/2 cup salad oil, y^ cup vinegar, yi teaspoon salt, % 
teaspoon pepper, % teaspoon paprika and ^ teaspoon sugar. 
Screw on the top and shake vigorously until it is thick. This 
is an easy way to make French dressing, and is most conven- 
ient, as it will keep for days in the jar, and only needs a good 
shaking to be ready for use. Of course it must be kept in a 
cool place. 

Mayonnaise. 

To the yolk of 1 egg, add y* teaspoon of salt and beat. 
Add 1 tablespoon vinegar and beat until smooth. Measure 1 
cup oil, add it 1 teaspoon at a time, beating constantly until 
mixture thickens, when it may be added by the tablespoonful. 



SALADS 131 



When all the oil has been used, add 2 tablespoons boiling water 
and chill on ice. Mayonnaise made according to this recipe will 
keep for two weeks in the refrigerator. Have oil and bowl 
very cold. 

Chili Dressing. 

6 tablespoons oil }4. teaspoon salt 

2 tablespoons vinegar X teaspoon paprika 

1 teaspoon chopped onion X teaspoon pepper 

2 tablespoons Chili Sauce 

Put into a jar and shake until thick. 

Cream Dressing. 

For those to whom oil is distasteful this recipe is given. 
Beat two eggs, separately; to the yolks add yi teaspoon 
mustard, ]/ 2 teaspoon salt, a dash of cayenne and 3 tablespoons 
cream. Whip the whites of eggs until dry and stiff, and fold 
in. 

Sour Cream Dressing. 

Sour cream dressing is most delicious for cucumbers. 1 
cup sour cream whipped for 5 minutes with the Dover egg 
beater, or mayonnaise mixer. To this add, while beating, 1 
tablespoon powdered sugar, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, ^2 
teaspoon salt and 2 drops Tobasco. Have cream very cold 
and not too thick or you may obtain butter instead of whipped 
cream. 

Boiled Cream Dressing. 

1 teaspoon salt 1 egg, slightly beaten 

1 teaspoon mustard 2 tablespoons melted butter 

]/2 tablespoon sugar yi cup milk 

yi cup vinegar 

Mix in order given, adding vinegar carefully. Cook over 
boiling water, stirring constantly until it thickens. If cooked 
too long the mixture is likely to curdle, therefore if it does not 
thicken quickly a teaspoon of corn starch rubbed smooth in a 
little cold milk may be added. 

Plain Salads. 

Lettuce and water cress, washed thoroughly and dried, 
may be served without any accompaniment save French 



132 WHAT AND HOW 



dressing, or they may be used in combination with radishes cut 
in thin slices, tomatoes peeled and sliced or cucumbers sliced 
very thin or cut into dice. Lettuce leaves may be dipped in 
French dressing and sprinkled with chopped nuts or hard 
boiled egg 9 chopped fine. 

Daisy Salad. 

Cut a cream cheese into % inch slices and lay each disc 
on a lettuce leaf, Or divide the cheese into 6 portions. Boil 2 
eggs for 20 minutes, throw into cold water. Remove shells, 
take out yolks and rub through fine sieve. Chop whites very 
small. On each round of cheese put ]4. teaspoon of the pow- 
dered yolk right in the centre, and surround the cheese with 
a circle of the chopped whites. Cover with French dressing. 

Cucumber Cups. 

Peel cucumber and cut into rounds about IK inches thick. 
Remove seeds, and place rounds on lettuce leaves, one to each 
person. Fill cups with Sauce Tartare, or plain Mayonnaise. 

Cucumber Boats. 

6 well shaped medium sized cucumbers. Cut a slice from 
each one lengthwise, and scoop out the inside, leaving a shell 
to be refilled. Chop the pulp and drain well, squeezing out 
the water. Add the pulp to 1 cup Sour Cream Dressing, add 
4 stuffed olives chopped fine, and put on the ice for an hour 
at least. Fill the shells, garnish with sprigs of parsley and 
serve with a fish course. The shells should be as thin as possible 
to make them without breaking through. 

Asparagus Salad. 

Use tender portions of asparagus, the pieces discarded 
will serve for soup. The tips used, should be about 3 inches 
long. Arrange on lettuce leaf, and bind around with a strip 
of bright red pepper (sweet). Serve with French dressing. 
Or, if you can obtain a whole pepper (fresh) you may cut rings 
from it and slip asparagus through. (See recipe for canning 
peppers.) 



SALADS 13:5 



Asparagus Tips. 

For a winter salad, buy a can of asparagus tips, or if 
whole asparagus, cut the tips off and use remainder for soup. 
It will be necessary to open can several hours before using, 
exposing to the air so that the flavor of the can will escape. 
Serve on lettuce leaves with canned pimento cut into dice, 
and cover with French dressing. 

Apple and Nut Salad. 

Select 6 well shaped and bright red apples, wash and 
polish the skin. Scoop out inside, leaving a wall thick enough 
to avoid danger of making holes in it while removing pulp. 
Mix equal parts chopped celery and walnuts (broken into 
small pieces) with Mayonnaise and fill the apple cups with 
the mixture. Serve very cold, on leaf of lettuce or bed of cress. 

Cauliflower Salad. 

1 small head cauliflower, boiled. Separate into flowerets 
before cooking. Serve on lettuce leaves with French dressing. 
Dip lettuce in the dressing and sprinkle lightly with grated 
cheese before placing the flowerets on it. 

Celery Salad. 

Celery, cut fine may be served alone, or with chopped 
apples, olives, or nuts, or combined with all three. Mayonnaise 
is better for celery —though French dressing may be used. 

Cucumber Jelly Salad. 

2 cucumbers, peeled and cut in Salt and pepper 

slices 1 tablespoon gelatin, dissolved in 

1 slice onion warm water 

1 pint cold water French dressing 

1 cucumber, sliced 

Simmer the two cucumbers with seasonings in the pint 
of water until soft. Add the gelatin. Line a mould with the 
sliced cucumber, pour in the jelly slowly and chill. When 
cold and firm turn out on lettuce and serve with French dress- 
ing. This is most attractive when chilled in individual moulds 



134 WHATANDHOW 



and served garnished with red peppers. This recipe is taken 
from "The Hostess of To-day." 1 would add as a suggestion 
the use of a few drops Pistache green coloring. 

Tomato Jelly. 

1 pint tomatoes 4 cloves 

1 bay leaf yi teaspoon salt 

2 slices onions X teaspoon paprika 

Dash of pepper 

Simmer all ingredients together 10 minutes and rub 
through sieve. Do not boil rapidly, the slow cooking will 
extract the seasonings better. Add \}i tablespoons gelatin, 
which has been soaked in cold water to cover until soft. Stir 
until gelatin is dissolved, add 2 tablespoons vinegar and pour 
into small moulds for invididual serves, or in a deep pie plate 
(enameled) to be cut into cubes when firm. Serve on lettuce 
with French dressing in combination with cream cheese, cel- 
ery, chopped olives, or sliced fresh tomatoes. It is a delicious 
salad of itself. 

White Grapes and Nuts. 

Skin grapes, cut in half and remove seeds. There is a 
delicious little white grape that is seedless, and with so tender 
a skin that it does not need peeling. Mix with Mayonnaise 
and serve on lettuce with chopped nuts. 

Cherry Salad. 

2 cups cherries, stoned Mayonnaise dressing, made with 

1 cup celery, shredded lemon juice instead of vinegar 

Put a pecan or peanut in each cherry, make a ring 
of celery moistened with Mayonnaise around the cherries on 
a lettuce leaf, and dot the cherries with mayonnaise. Canned 
cherries, if a good color may be used, while Maraschino cherries 
excel either the fresh or canned, though of course more expen- 
sive. See Cherries, pickled, in Chapter XXVII. 

Chiffonade Salad. 

Chop very fine, ^ green pepper, and y 2 red pepper, cut 
the pulp from one grape fruit, shred 1 cup celery and a head 



SALADS 135 



of romaine or lettuce, and mix all well together with French 
dressing. Serve on salad plates with fresh tomatoes peeled and 
cut in lengthwise sections and dipped into French dressing. 

Egg Salad I. 

Cook 6 eggs 20 minutes, boiling gently; drop into cold 
water and remove shells. Cut in half, crosswise. With scis- 
sors, cut the white cups in points, mash yolks and add minced 
chicken or tongue (about 2 tablespoons), 1 tablespoon melted 
butter, % teaspoon salt, and moisten with a little cream. Re- 
fill cups, serve on lettuce with French Dressing. 

Egg Salad II. 

Boil 6 eggs gently for 20 minutes, throw into cold water, 
shell and keep on ice until needed. To 1 cup Mayonnaise, add 
2 tablespoons canned salmon rubbed into a smooth paste, or 
5 large sardines skinned and mashed. Cut the eggs in 4 length- 
wise sections and serve on a bed of cress or lettuce with the 
Mayonnaise put over them. 

Egg Salad III. 

After boiling and shelling as directed above, chop the 
whites very fine, and rub yolks through a wire sieve. Dip let- 
tuce leaves into French dressing and arrange on plates. 
Sprinkle with the yolks and arrange the whites in a mound 
or ring, with a stuffed olive in the centre. 

Devilled Eggs. 

Put eggs on stove in cold water and boil 20 minutes. If 
boiled too rapidly the yolk settles on one side, hence the cold 
water. When boiled and cold, cut in half lengthwise and re- 
move the yolks. Mash fine with a fork and rub smooth with 
a little cold water. Add small piece of butter and season with 
salt, pepper and kitchen bouquet. Refill eggs and put two 
halves together. 



136 WHAT AND HOW 



Tomato Salad I. 

Staid and peel 6 tomatoes, large and well shaped. Re- 
move core, sprinkle with very finely chopped parsley and fill 
cavity with Mayonnaise. Serve on lettuce. 

Tomato Salad II. 

Hothouse tomatoes may be had of very tiny size, no 
larger than a walnut. Peel carefully and serve 2 on each plate, 
with balls of Neufchatel cheese on each side. Pour French 
dressing over them. 

Tomato Salad III. 

Select medium sized well rounded tomatoes. Remove a 
slice from the top and scoop out the core and part of the pulp, 
just as much as can safely be scraped from the shell without 
danger of breaking it. Drain dry. Cut a cucumber, after 
peeling, into slices ^ inch thick and let lay in water for an 
hour. Drain and wipe dry. Cut into tiny dice, mix with 
tomato pulp and refill shells. Top with a liberal spoonful 
Mayonnaise on top of which sprinkle powdered parsley. 
Serve on lettuce leaf. Do not peel tomatoes, but wash well 
and polish. 

Tomato and Crab. 

Crab meat, or shrimps may be mixed with Mayonnaise 
and served in tomatoes prepared as in preceding recipe. 

Chicken Salad I. 

Cut cold boiled chicken into neat pieces of uniform size, 
add equal quantity of celery cut into pieces of same size as 
chicken. A little care in the cutting makes the salad more 
attractive. Mix thoroughly, sprinkle liberally with salt and 
pepper and set in a cool place until serving time, when the 
Mayonnaise may be stirred in. Capers may be added. Garnish 
the dish with celery tops and thin strips of red pepper. (See 
page 297.) 

Chicken Salad II. 

Prepare chicken and celery as in Chicken Salad I, and use 
the following dressing instead of Mayonnaise. 



SALADS 137 



Take T j cup of rich stock obtained by boiling down sonic 
of the water in which the chicken was boiled. Add Yz cup 
vinegar, yolks of 3 eggs, a little mustard mixed with part of 
the vinegar, y± teaspoon pepper and cook in a double boiler until 
thoroughly heated. Mix 1 teaspoon corn starch with a little 
cold water, add to the mixture and cook, stirring constantly 
until thick. Beat well until perfectly smooth, add ]4 cup milk 
and 2 tablespoons melted butter and cool before using. Add 
more salt if salad needs it after mixing. This receipe is for 
use when Mayonnaise is objectionable on account of the oil. 

Salade a la Chanticler. 

Mould tomato jelly in a round bottomed bowl, and turn 
out on a bed of cress or lettuce. Surround with a ring, show- 
ing green between it and the tomato jelly, of chopped nuts 
and sliced stuffed olives, which have been previously sprinkled 
well with French dressing. Make a third ring of lettuce hearts, 
dipped in French dressing and sprinkled with yolks of hard 
boiled eggs rubbed through a fine sieve. Arrange the whites 
of eggs, chopped very fine, over the green showing between 
the mound and first ring. Arrange long strips of canned sweet 
pepper (see recipe) on the lettuce leaves on outside of lettuce 
hearts. To serve, cut mound of jelly in slices, place on two or 
three of the lettuce hearts for each plate, put nuts and olives 
on top of tomato slice, serve a strip of pepper on each plate, 
and pass Mayonnaise. This is an attractive dish for informal 
luncheon and after theatre suppers. 

Bellevue Salad. 

Cut tomato jelly into cubes. Sprinkle with sweet green 
pepper chopped very fine and place a stuffed olive in the center 
of each plate. Serve with French dressing or Mayonnaise as 
desired. 

Christmas Salad. 

Using the canned pepper strips and tomato jelly as di- 
rected in preceding recipes, mould the jelly in small coffee 
cups or any small moulds for individual serves, and turn out 
on lettuce leaves. Make balls the size of a large hickory nut, 



138 WHATANDHOW 



from cream cheese or Neufchatel. Take small wooden tooth- 
picks and tie a bow of narrow red ribbon on the end of each. 
Stick these into the cheese balls, previously sprinkled with 
paprika. Serve three on each plate, the toothpicks serving as 
handles for eating the balls. Decorate further with the strips 
of pepper, in rings or scallops over the lettuce. French dress- 
ing. 

Spring Salad. 

Mould cucumber jelly, colored with Pistache Green, in 
small individual glasses or cups. Arrange with cheese balls 
as directed in preceding recipe, using pale green ribbon on 
toothpicks, and cucumber dice, instead of strips of peppers. 
French dressing. Omit paprika, keeping the color scheme 
white and green. 

Potato Salad I. 

3 cups cold boiled potatoes cut 1 tablespoon minced onion 

into small dice Salt and pepper 

2 tablespoons minced parsley French dressing 

Mix potatoes with parsley and onion until they are well 
coated, sprinkle with salt and pepper and add enough French 
dressing to moisten well. Put into a Mason preserve jar with 
tight lid, and keep on the ice for several hours before using. 
This is better the day after it is made, and will keep for sev- 
eral days on ice. Do not be afraid of too much dressing, it 
must not be dry. Serve on lettuce, and pour over it any dress- 
ing remaining in the jar. 

Potato Salad II. 

Have potatoes boiled, cold and diced, or sliced. Mix with 
the following dressing: Mash the yolks of 2 hard boiled eggs 
and rub smooth with a little water. Add ]/ 2 teaspoon mustard, 
1>2 cup vinegar, ]4 cup milk, 1 tablespoon butter, dash of 
cayenne and yolks of 2 raw eggs. Cook in double boiler until 
thick, add well whipped white of egg, when cool. This dress- 
ing is excellent for cold slaw. Cut the recipe in half for small 
dish of salad. 



SALADS L89 



Macedoine Salad I. 
Use for this any combination of loft over vegetables, and 

put away in a cold place as directed for potato salad, with 
plenty of dressing. One of the best inaccdoines is made with 
peas, celery, string beans and red beets in equal quantities. 
Cut celery in small pieces, beans in inch lengths and beets into 
the tiniest of dice. Mix with French dressing. Or, if you 
choose to take extra trouble, chill the vegetables thoroughly 
and separately. Arrange on lettuce in 4 sections, the 2 greens 
opposite each other, and separate sections with sprigs of pars- 
ley. French dressing. 

Macedoine II. 

On six salad plates, arrange the lettuce for individual 
serves. In the centre put the red beets, against them the 
celery, next the peas, then arrange the chopped whites of 
c 2 hard boiled eggs, and outside this, the beans. Sprinkle over 
all the yolks of the eggs rubbed through a fine sieve and dot 
with Mayonnaise. Strips of canned red peppers make a pretty 
garnish for this salad. 

Salmon Moulds. 

2 cups canned salmon, freed from 1 teaspoon minced parsley 

skin, fat and bones 2 drops tobasco sauce 

1 tablespoon lemon juice ]/$ teaspoon salt 

Mix with 
Boiled Dressing. 

2 tablespoons butter, creamed 1 teaspoon sugar 

yi teaspoon each, salt, paprika 
and mustard 

Mix thoroughly and add K C up hot milk. Pour slowly 
over 2 egg yolks slightly beaten, and cook in double boiler, 
stirring constantly until it begins to thicken. Strain and stir 
in 3 tablespoons vinegar, gradually, and 1 tablespoon granu- 
lated gelatin dissolved in 3 tablespoons hot water. Pour over 
fish and when well mixed together, mould in individual 
shapes and set on the ice for at least 3 hours before serving. 
Turn out on lettuce leaves and serve with tiny tomatoes 



140 WHATANDHOW 



whole, or sliced tomatoes. Use either French dressing or 
Mayonnaise. Or, mould in a large shape, or ring mould if 
preferred. 

Halibut Salad. 

Boil a slice of halibut and cool. With 2 silver forks, 
break it into flakes, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve 
on lettuce with Mayonnaise. Chopped celery may be added 
if desired. 

Lobster Salad. 

Cut the meat from a freshly boiled lobster, into small 
dice, using a sharp knife to avoid tearing the flesh. Use y$ 
as much celery as you have lobster, and this must be cut in 
pieces not over ^ inch long. Mix celery and lobster, 
sprinkle with salt and pepper, with a dash of cayenne, and 
stir and toss until seasonings are well distributed. Mix with 
thick Mayonnaise when ready to serve and not before, keep- 
ing both lobster and dressing on the ice meanwhile. Serve 
in a bowl, which has been chilled, on a bed of lettuce, and 
garnish with the claws of the lobster, and the coral rubbed 
through fine sieve. 

Crab Salad. 

Crab salad is made as above, using shredded lettuce in- 
stead of celery. 

Shrimp Salad. 

Open a can of shrimps an hour before using, wash well, 
split open, remove intestine, and set them on the ice. Serve 
with sliced tomatoes on lettuce with Mayonnaise, and garnish 
with hard boiled eggs sliced. 

Pineapple Salad. 

One can Hawaiian sliced pineapple holds eight slices. Ar- 
range each slice on a bed of shredded lettuce and pour over 
it either French dressing or fruit dressing as given below. Use 
pickled or Maraschino Cherries for garnish. 



SALADS 141 



Fruit Dressing. 

Instead of a French dressing, try this for a change. One 
teaspoon sugar, a dash each of salt and pepper, 5 drops to 
basco sauce, 4 tablespoons olive oil and 2 tablespoons lemon 
or lime juice. Put into a bottle and shake until thick. Es- 
pecially good over bananas. 

A Fruit Salad. 

With a pair of scissors, cut lettuce leaves into strips and 
arrange in piles on salad plates with a "nest" in the centre to 
hold the fruit. Cut pineapple in very small cubes, cut white 
grapes in half and remove seeds, and oranges in small neat 
pieces. This is best done with scissors. Save two sections 
of orange whole for each plate. Cover with French dressing 
and top off with Maraschino cherries if desired. 

Waldorf Salad. 

Mix equal quantities finely cut celery and apple, and 
moisten with Mayonnaise dressing. Serve this on lettuce 
leaves garnished with strips of pimento, or in apple cups, made 
by scooping out pulp from attractive looking apples, leaving just 
enough apple inside to hold the skin in shape. Green peppers 
may also be used as cups to hold this salad. 



142 WHAT AND HOW 

CHAPTER XII 

COLD DESSERTS. 
Rice Pudding. 

1 quart milk ^ cup rice 

]A, cup sugar 

Wash the rice well, stir into the milk, add sugar and bake 
in a buttered dish. The oven must be very moderate, to cook 
the pudding so slowly that the milk does not boil. In about 
15 minutes, a crust should have formed, which must be stirred 
down; at the same time, lift the rice from the bottom of the 
dish and stir it well. Do this every 15 minutes for 1 hour. 
Now let it bake without stirring yi hour, by which time a rich 
brown crust should have formed and the pudding be a 
creamy mass. If directions are carefully followed, you will 
succeed in making the real old-fashioned rice pudding, but it 
must cook slowly for \ x /2 hours without drying up. Raisins, 
seeded, may be added if desired, % cup to quantities given 
above. 

Prune Pudding. 

Wash thoroughly one pound prunes, cover with hot 
water and keep on back of stove, closely covered where the 
water will keep hot without boiling. When the prunes are 
swelled until perfectly smooth, drain, remove the stones and 
chop. Beat the whites of 4 eggs very stiff, adding gradu- 
ally 1 cup sugar and 1 tablespoon lemon juice, then stir in 
chopped prunes. Pour into a buttered baking dish, bake 20 
minutes in a moderate oyen. Serve cold with cream or Custard 
Sauce. 

Queen of Puddings. 

4 eggs 1 tablespoon butter, soft 

1 cup sugar 1 quart milk 

2 cups dried bread crumbs 

Beat yolks of eggs, until light, add sugar and butter, and 
when well mixed, stir in the milk. Now beat in the crumbs 
and bake in buttered pudding dish. (See directions for bak- 
ing custards.) When baked, spread with a layer of marmal- 
ade, jelly or jam, and cover with a meringue made of the beaten 



COLD DESSERTS 143 



whites of eggs and }A cup powdered sugar. Sift powdered sugar 
over the meringue and set in oven long enough to brown slightly. 
This is well named, and albeit a little old-fashioned, is always 
a welcome dish. 

Apple Meringue. 

4 cups apple sauce 3 eggs 

1 cup fine bread crumbs 1 tablespoon butter melted 

! , cup sherry wine Juice and half the grated rind 

of 1 lemon 

Make apple sauce according to directions; it must be 
thick and free from lumps. With a wire spoon, beat it 
until light and creamy. Add crumbs and butter, the 
wine and lemon juice. Lastly the beaten yolks of eggs. Beat 
hard for one minute by the clock, and bake in buttered dish, 
covered, for >£ hour. Make a meringue of the beaten whites 
of the eggs and 3 tablespoons powdered sugar. Return to 
oven and brown lightly. Serve very cold. 



Rhubarb Betty. 

Put in a buttered baking dish, a layer of fine bread crumbs; 
cover with a layer of stewed and sweetened rhubarb. Repeat 
these layers until dish is full, cover with a layer of buttered 
crumbs and cook long enough to heat thoroughly and brown 
crumbs. Moderate oven. 

Brown Betty I. 

2 cups chopped apples Butter 

1 cup fine bread crumbs Cinnamon 

Sugar 

Peel apples, chop or cut into thin slices. Rub crumbs 
through colander; they should be bread from the center of 
a loaf, not dry. Butter a pudding dish, put a layer of apples 
on the bottom of it, sprinkle with sugar and dot with small 
bits of butter. Cover with a layer of crumbs and repeat until 
the dish is full. The top layer must be buttered crumbs. Bake 
half an hour covered, uncover and brown. It will brown very 
quickly under the oven flame of a gas stove. 



144 WHATANDHOW 



Brown Betty II. 

Arrange the apples as in recipe preceding, omitting 
sugar. Bake yi hour. Beat 2 eggs and 2 tablespoons sugar 
together until smooth. Add 1 cup milk, and pour over the 
pudding when the apples are tender. Return to oven and 
cook until a rich golden brown. It should take about 1.5 
minutes in a moderate oven. 

Stewed Apples. 

If apples, peaches or rhubarb are cooked very slowly in 
an earthern ware pot with a tight lid, they assume a fine red 
color, and make a richer stew than when cooked in the usual 
way. Put them into a casserole, cook 15 minutes on the fire 
and put into the fireless cooker for 6 hours or longer. If you are 
without a fireless cooker, cook in a very moderate oven 2 hours. 



Apple Custard. 

\yi cups grated raw apple 2 eggs, pinch of salt 

3 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon corn starch 

1 teaspoon lemon extract 1 pint milk 

Make custard of milk, yolks of eggs, sugar, salt and corn 
starch rubbed smooth with a little milk. When thick and 
smooth add the apple and flavoring. Pour into custard cups, 
cover with meringue and brown in oven. 



Chocolate Bread Pudding. 

2 cups stale bread crumbs % cup sugar 

4 cups scalded milk 2 eggs 

2 squares Baker's chocolate y^ teaspoon salt 

1 teaspoon vanilla 

Soak bread in milk thirty minutes; melt chocolate in 
saucepan placed over hot water, add >2 cup sugar and enough 
milk taken from bread and milk to make of consistency to 
pour, add to mixture with remaining sugar, salt, vanilla, and 
eggs slightly beaten; turn into buttered pudding dish, and 
bake one hour in a moderate oven. Serve with Hard or any 
pudding sauce. 



COLD DESSERTS 145 



Bread Pudding I. 

Soak a pint of fine crumbs in 1 quart milk for two hours, 
stir in 4 well-beaten egg yolks, 2 tablespoons melted butter, 
]/2 teaspoon soda (scant) dissolved in a little boiling water, 
turn into buttered pudding dish, bake covered for half an hour, 
then uncover and brown. Make a meringue of whites of eggs 
beaten stiff, sweetened with powdered sugar and flavored with 
vanilla. Pile on the pudding when baked and brown slightly 
in a moderate oven. 

If liked yi cup seeded raisings may be added to this pud- 
ding; let them soak with the bread in the milk. 

Bread Pudding II. 

Scald 1 quart milk, beat 3 eggs slightly, with >2 cup 
sugar. Pour the hot milk gradually over this, stirring all 
the time. Add y 2 teaspoon vanilla and pour into a buttered 
baking dish. Cover with triangles of buttered bread cut very 
thin, sprinkle with grated nutmeg. Set in a shallow pan 
of water, which should be boiling when put into the oven, 
but not allowed to boil afterward. Water should be 
kept as hot as possible without boiling. Bake from thirty 
to forty -five minutes. The custard is done when a silver 
knife thrust into it will come out clean. If baked too long 
or too quickly, the custard will break. Serve with Caramel 
Sauce. 

Chocolate Pudding. 

4 cups milk 2 tablespoons corn starch 

5 eggs Pinch of salt 

1 teaspoon vanilla 4 tablespoons grated chocolate or 

1 cup sugar 2 squares melted over h©t water 

Make a custard of milk, yolks of eggs and sugar. With 
a little cold milk, mix the cornstarch to a paste, and add to the 
hot custard; now stir in the chocolate, add salt and vanilla. 
Bake, covered, for half an hour. Make a meringue of the 
beaten whites and 2 tablespoons powdered sugar, pile lightly 
over the pudding and brown. 



146 WHAT AND HOW 



Cherry Tapioca. 

3 tablespoons Minute Tapioca 2 cups cherries, seeded 

2 cups hot water 1 cup sugar 

Cook the tapioca in the water 10 minutes. Add sugar 
and cherries; stir and cook until cherries are tender. Cool; 
pour into glass dish. Serve with cream, plain or whipped. 

Apple Tapioca I. 

3 tablespoons Minute Tapioca 3 cups cold water 

yi cup sugar Juice and grated rind of 1 orange 

6 apples l /i teaspoon salt 

Soak tapioca in the water until it is swelled, allowing it to 
stand on the back of the stove. Cook slowly until clear; add 
half of sugar and half of orange juice and rind. Cook apples, 
peeled, cored, and cut in half in another pan, add rest of the 
sugar, orange juice and rind. Let these cook slowly and if not 
sweet enough add more sugar. When soft combine with tapioca 
and cook together 5 minutes. If tapioca seems too thick add 
more water in which case you will require more sugar. Serve 
in a glass bowl, or if you wish it, browned in a baking dish. It 
will require only a few minutes in a hot oven. 

Apple Tapioca II. 

Pare and quarter 6 large tart apples. Arrange in baking 
dish and sprinkle with 1 cup sugar. Cook ]^ cup Minute Tapi- 
oca and 1 quart boiling water in double boiler 15 minutes, 
add % teaspoon salt. Pour over the apples, and bake yi hour, 
covered in a moderate oven. Very thin slices of lemon may be 
put in among the apples; the apples may be cored and baked 
whole if not too large. 

Tapioca Cream. 

4 cups milk % cup sugar 

3 tablespoons pearl tapioca Pinch of salt 

2 eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla 

Cook milk and tapioca in double boiler 15 minutes, stir- 
ring frequently. Beat yolks of eggs and sugar together, add 
to tapioca at the end of 15 minutes, also add salt. Cook until 
it thickens, stirring constantly, remove from fire, cool slightly, 



GOLD DESSERTS U7 



then fold in the beaten whites of eggs. Flavor and pour into 
glass dish. This is delicious poured over cut oranges, 
or Hawaiian pineapples. 



Plain Boiled Custard. 

To 1 quart milk, allow 6 eggs and )4 cup sugar. Scald 
milk in double boiler, beat yolks of eggs and add sugar. Pour 
over this the hot milk gradually to avoid curdling. If the egg 
is heated too suddenly, it cooks, and this causes it to separate 
from the milk. Return to the fire and stir constantly with a 
wire spoon until it is thick. Flavor and cool. The whites of 
the eggs may be used for a meringue or whipped stiff and beaten 
into the custard. If eggs continue to be as costly as they 
are at this writing, use 1 tablespoon Minute Tapioca and 
eliminate 2 eggs. Corn starch may also be used. This applies 
to all recipes in which custard may be an ingredient.. 



Baked Custard. 

To 1 quart milk allow 4 eggs and yi cup sugar. Proceed 
by recipe for boiled custard as far as combining the two quan- 
tities. Pour into buttered cups or baking dish, and bake in a 
pan of water deep enough to come half way up the cups. The 
water in the pan must not boil as the combination of milk and 
eggs requires slow cooking. Test by thrusting in a silver knife; 
if done, it will come out clean, but if any custard adheres to 
it, allow a little longer time. Custard is spoiled if cooked too 
long. Use the whites of the eggs for meringue and pile lightly 
on top. Brown in oven. 



Cup Custards. 

may be varied by turning out on a saucer, placing the mer- 
ingue on top and sprinkling with nuts finely chopped, or serve 
around a cup custard, after it is turned out, a caramel sauce, 
and place a macaroon upon the top. 



148 WHATANDHOW 



Boiled Caramel Custard. 

1 quart milk 5 eggs 

yi cup sugar Pinch of salt 

Caramelize sugar, by stirring over the fire in a hot pan 
until it melts and turns a light shade of brown. Do not let 
it cook too long after melting, or it will be bitter. Scald milk 
in double boiler and add caramel carefully; it will cause the 
milk to boil furiously and must be added gradually. Keep 
stirring until it melts in hot milk, then pour gradually over 
yolks of eggs slightly beaten, and return to fire. Stir until 
it is thick and creamy, add salt and set aside to cool. When 
ready to serve, pour into glass dish and drop over the top 

Maple Meringue. 
Beat the whites of eggs until stiff and dry, add 3 table- 
spoons powdered sugar and yi teaspoon Mapeline. A sym- 
phony in brown. 

Baked Caramel Custard. 

4 cups scalded milk ~% teaspoon salt 

5 eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla 

Yi cup sugar 

Melt sugar in omelet pan, stirring constantly over hot 
part of the stove, until it is a light brown syrup, add gradu- 
ally to the milk, being careful that the milk does not bubble 
over, as it is liable to, on account of the high temperature of 
sugar. Stir until sugar is melted. Add mixture gradually 
to the eggs, slightly beaten, add salt and flavoring, and strain 
into buttered mould. Bake as Custard. When very cold 
turn out, and serve with Caramel Sauce. 

Pineapple Macedoine. 

Select a large ripe pineapple, remove the stem and save 
for a cover to the macedoine. With a knife cut out the hard 
center, using caution not to pierce the shell. Scoop out with 
a fork as much of the pulp as you can without risking a break. 
Have ready, cherries seeded, strawberries cut in half, if large, 
and bananas diced, quantity of each to depend upon the 



COLD DESSERTS HO 



capacity of the pineapple. Arrange the fruit in layers, sprink- 
ling generously with sugar, until the shell is filled. Add 2 table 
spoons lemon juice to any fruit juice you have left and pour 
over the macedoinc. Replace the lid and put into the coldest 
part of the refrigerator for c 2 or 3 hours before serving. Send 
to the table on a flat dish with grape leaves around it, and 
serve from the pineapple. 

Chocolate Blanc Mange. 

% cup Irish moss 1 teaspoon vanilla 

4 cups mlk \}/i squares chocolate 

y A cup sugar ]A, cup boiling water 

Pinch of salt 

Soak moss for 15 minutes in cold water to cover, drain; 
pick it over to remove dark spots, and add to milk. Cook 
in double boiler l / 2 hour, add salt and strain. Melt the choco- 
late over hot water, add sugar and boiling water, stir until 
smooth and add to the cooked mixture, just before taking 
from the fire. Add vanilla and pour into a mould. 

This blanc mange may be made with gelatin, using yi 
box or 2 envelopes. Serve with sugar and cream. 

Moulded Snow. 

4 cups milk, scalded Whites 3 eggs 

yi cup corn starch }4. cup cold milk 

yi cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 

Pinch of salt 

Mix cornstarch, sugar and salt, rub to a paste with the 
cold milk, add to scalding milk and cook in double boiler 15 
minutes, stirring constantly at first, after mixture thickens 
only occasionally. Remove from the fire, add stiffly beaten 
whites of eggs and flavoring, mix thoroughly, mould and 
chill. Serve with Chocolate Sauce or Quick Sauce. 

Flummery. 

Put 1 cup of rice through meat grinder, fine cutter. Wash 
it and mix with a little cold milk. Stir this into 3 pints milk 
heated in double boiler, add 3^ cup sugar, and stir until it 
thickens. Remove from fire, flavor w r ith extract of bitter 



150 WHATANDHOW 



almond and pour into mould previously wet with cold water. 
Serve with cream sweetened and flavored with nutmeg. This 
is a "traditional" recipe in use in a Wilmington family for 4 
generations. 

Banana Charlotte. 

Chill 2 bananas. When ice cold, skin and press through 
a sieve, sprinkle with juice 1 large lemon, and add white of 
one egg. Whip all together until light and creamy. 

Have ready a syrup made of 1 cup sugar and yi cup water, 
boiled to the ball (see directions for making syrup.) Pour this 
slowly over the mixture, beating hard all the time. Add 1 tea- 
spoon granulated gelatin dissolved in 1 tablespoon hot water. 
Continue beating until it begins to thicken, and mould. 

Coffee Cream. 

2 tablespoons Minute Tapioca 2 eggs, beaten separately 

2 cups scalded milk >£ cup sugar, added to yolks 

Cook 20 minutes in double boiler ]/^ cup strong coffee infusion 

1 teaspoon vanilla 

Add a dash of salt to milk and tapioca mixture, and pour 
gradually over yolks and sugar. Return to fire and cook, stir- 
ring constantly until it thickens. Add coffee and vanilla and 
cool slightly, fold in the beaten whites of eggs and pour into 
glass dish. Serve with cream. 

Corn Starch Float. 

1 quart milk, scalded 1 level tablespoon corn starch 

2 eggs % cup sugar 

Beat yolks of eggs, add corn starch and sugar, add hot 
milk gradually, and return to fire. Cook 5 minutes, stirring 
constantly. Flavor with vanilla, nutmeg, or extract bitter 
almond. Pour into buttered bake dish, cover with meringue 
of beaten whites of eggs and 2 tablespoons powdered sugar, 
flavored with juice of x /2 lemon, and brown. 

Peach Cream Pudding. 

1 can peaches yi cup powdered sugar 

3 eggs 2 tablespoons corn starch 

3 cups milk 1 tablespoon butter 



COLD DESSERTS 151 



Rub corn starch smooth, with a little of the milk, scald 
the remainder of the milk and stir the corn starch into it. Do 
not stop stirring until it is thick. Take from fire and add 
the butter; add carefully part of the corn starch to the yolks 
of eggs beaten light, then combine mixtures. Arrange peaches 
in a buttered bake dish, sprinkle with the sugar, and pour cus- 
tard over them. Bake 10 minutes in quick oven, cover with 
meringue, made of the beaten whites of eggs and 2 table- 
spoons powdered sugar, and return to oven to brown. 

Strawberry Trifle. 

Any stale cake may be used for this, and while the recipe 
calls for fresh fruit, it is almost as good in the winter time with 
a good brand of canned berries or jam. 

Slice the cake and line a glass dish with it. Spread a 
little custard on each slice and put on a layer of strawberries 
cut in half, sprinkle lightly with powdered sugar. On this 
place another layer of sliced cake, custard and berries. Pour 
custard over all, whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth; 
into this beat some strawberry juice or crushed berries well 
sweetened, and pile on top. Make 1 pint custard by usual 
recipe. 

Raspberry Trifle. 

Line a dish with thin slices of stale cake. Moisten with 
raspberry juice and cover with a thick layer of the berries, 
sweetened. Over this put another layer of the cake and pro- 
ceed as before. Serve with Whipped Cream Sauce, or Custard 
Sauce. Any fruit may be used instead of raspberries; if peaches 
or pineapple, crush them with sugar, or use in very thin slices. 
For use in winter, canned fruit, if of best quality, is a good 
substitute for the fresh. Preserves and marmalades can also 
be used. 

Oranges, Creole Style. 

Peel the oranges, cut in slices, and sprinkle with sugar 
to form a syrup. Serve very cold. 



152 WHATANDHOW 



Ambrosia. 

Peel oranges, and holding each one firm with a fork, cut 
in small slices away from the core. Save every drop of juice. 
Arrange in layers in a deep glass dish, sprinkling each layer 
with sugar and grated cocoanut. Cover with the cocoanut, 
pour over it the juice, and keep in a cold place for an hour 
or two before serving. 

Apple Trifle. 

Peel and cut into slices, 12 tart apples. Put them into 
double boiler and let them cook until perfectly tender. With 
a wire spoon whip until smooth and creamy, sweeten to taste, 
add the juice of 1 lemon and half the grated rind, and put 
into a glass dish. When perfectly cold it should be quite stiff. 
Make a quart of custard, folding in, when perfectly cold, the 
beaten whites of the eggs. Put it over the apple by the spoon- 
ful; it should not sink below the apple. Pile on top of this, 1 
pint whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with a very little 
sherry. 

Apple Snow. 

}4 lb. macaroons 1 cup of custard 

Whites 4 eggs ]/2 cup powdered sugar 

4 large apples 

Put macaroons in the bottom of a glass dish and cover 
with the custard before you make the snow. Whisk the eggs 
and sugar to a meringue before paring the apples. Peel and 
grate each directly into the meringue and whip it in quickly 
before peeling the next. The apple changes color so quickly 
in the air after peeling that you will need an assistant to grate 
it while you beat. Pile on top of the custard. 

Gelatin. 

All recipes given here in which gelatin is used, call for 
granulated gelatin, whether so stated or not. The day has 
gone by when any other kind needs to be used. The tedious 
process of soaking for hours, the guessing at the quantity, 
the extra trouble of dissolving have given place to the neat 
packages of powdered gelatin, needing only to be "swelled" 
to render it soluble at once, and it is already measured. 



COLD DESSERTS 153 



There are many good brands but the Minute Gelatin, each 
box divided into 4 packages, is most convenient as it does 
away with all doubt as to ounces and spoonfuls, doubts that 
have always existed in the average mind in connection with 
gelatin; each package contains just 1 ounce, which is 1 table- 
spoon, and is one quarter of a box; no matter how your recipe 
reads you can make no mistake. 

Whipped Cream. 

There are many methods set forth by many books and 
magazine writers for whipping cream. Distinction is made 
between the whipping of thin and thick cream, which, by the 
way, is very necessary. My directions are given for medium 
cream, the cream you gather from the top of your milk bottles, 
if you buy the right milk. Heavy whipping cream will whip, 
perhaps with less trouble (provided it does not turn to butter), 
but ordinary cream will be most satisfactory and quite easily 
wdiipped. Have bowl, cream and Dover egg beater, icy cold; if 
weather is warm, set the bowl inside the larger one of cracked 
ice, whip it steadily and not too rapidly until it is stiff. Put 
into the refrigerator for half an hour. Now take off the stiff 
cream, put into a hair sieve to drain, and repeat the process 
Two whippings should suffice, unless you are whipping a large 
quantity. It is well to select the bowl for depth with slightly 
sloping sides unless the quantity of cream is very small, when use 
a teacup and the small Dover. The cream will stand for hours 
after whipping; if any cream settles on the bottom it is easily 
drained. 

A Quick Dessert. 

Whip 2 cups cream until stiff. Add 2 tablespoons pow- 
dered sugar and flavor with vanilla or bitter almond to taste. 
Crush 9 stale macaroons; if fresh, dry them in a slow oven, and 
mix with the cream when ready to use. Serve in frappe glasses. 

Whipped Cream with Fruit. 

1 cup pineapple, diced 1 orange, in tiny slices 

1 banana, diced 1 cup strawberries, whole 

Whip 2 cups of cream, sweetened to taste, add the fruit 

and pile lightly in a glass dish lined with split lady fingers. 



154 WHATANDHOW 



Serve very cold, with some of the strawberries on top for a 
garnish. The cream needs to be very sweet as there is no 
sugar on the fruit. 

Jellied Apples. 

Peel and core 6 firm apples. Cook in water to cover them 
until they are tender, sprinkling over them x /2 cup sugar. Let 
them cook very gently that they may keep their shape and 
not become soft on the outside before being cooked in the 
center. Drain from the syrup and arrange in a glass bowl. 
Measure the syrup; to 1 pint (2 cups) allow ^ envelope of 
Minute Gelatin (>^ tablespoon), previously swelled in cold 
water to cover. If syrup is not sweet enough, add more sugar; 
when the gelatin is dissolved, remove from the fire, cool slightly 
and strain over the apples. 

Pineapple Meringue. 

Cut stale cake into thin slices and cut these into pieces 
that may be arranged to hold a slice of Hawaiian pineapple. 
Or if you bake a cake on purpose, make it so that you can 
cut out rounds the right size. This may be done by cutting 
around a saucer with a sharp knife. If the cake is thick, split 
each round after cutting. On each plate, put a slice of the 
pineapple on top of the cake, sprinkle with chopped nuts, and 
dot with a meringue made of the beaten whites 2 eggs and 2 
tablespoons powdered sugar, flavored with a few drops lemon 
juice. 

Pineapple Cream. 

lyi envelopes Minute gelatin Yolk 1 egg 

2 cups milk 2 tablespoons sugar 

1 cup whipped cream Hawaiian pineapple, grated 

Scald the milk and pour slowly over the egg and sugar 
beaten together. Return to the double boiler and cook 5 
minutes. Add the gelatin, which has been soaked in cold 
water to cover for 10 minutes and dissolved in hot water, and 
pour out into a shallow dish to cool. When beginning to stiffen, 
add 1 cup pineapple and the whipped cream. Mould and 
chill. Serve with cream or a pudding sauce. The remainder 
of the pineapple may be arranged around the base of the mould 



COLD DESSERTS 155 



when turned out on its serving dish, or be used as a dessert 
by itself. Do not keep it in the can, turn into a bowl and keep 
in a cold place for 2 or 3 days, and serve with a plain cake. 

Hawaiian pineapple is superior to any canned or pre- 
served fruit, and is better adapted to desserts than the fresh 
pineapple; it is more convenient, no more expensive, and is 
of fine flavor. Each can contains 8 slices of fruit. 

Italian Cream. 

1 package Minute gelatin yi cup sugar 

2 cups milk 1 teaspoon vanilla 

3 eggs Pinch of salt 

Cover gelatin with cold water; scald milk in double boiler, 
pour it slowly over yolks of eggs and sugar mixed together, 
return to fire, add gelatin and cook until mixture coats the 
spoon, stirring all the time. Strain. Add salt, and when 
cooled slightly, the flavoring and beaten whites of the eggs. 
Mould and chill. Serve with cream, whipped cream, or Quick 
Pudding Sauce. 

Coffee Souffle. 

\yi cups coffee infusion 1 package Minute gelatin 

)4 cup milk 3 eggs 

% cup sugar }4. teaspoon vanilla 

Scald milk, add slowly to yolks of eggs and sugar, slightly 
beaten together, return to double boiler, add coffee and gelatin 
(soaked as directed), cook until it begins to thicken, cool slight- 
ly, add flavoring and fold in the whites of eggs beaten stiff. 
Mould. Serve with cream, plain or whipped. 

Pineapple Bavarian Cream. 

2 cups milk yi cup cold water 

1 tablespoon gelatin soaked 10 2 eggs 

minutes % cup sugar 
1 cup cream 

Make a custard of the milk, egg yolks and sugar, ac- 
cording to directions already given. When it is ready to take 
from the fire, add gelatin and stir until it is thoroughly dis- 
solved; strain into a bowl and cool. When cold add 1 cup 
grated Hawaiian pineapple and the juice of ]4 lemon. Whip 
the cream until stiff, add it and the beaten whites of the eggs 



156 WHATANDHOW 



to the mixture; mould and chill. Have the cream whipped and 
in the refrigerator before you begin to make the custard. You 
will have time to whip the egg whites, but not the cream, while 
the mixture cools; it begins to stiffen as it cools and the cream 
and eggs must be folded in before it gets too stiff. 

Bavarian Cream. 

% lemon, grated rind and juice 2 eggs 

yi cup orange juice, or any fruit 1 teaspoon gelatin 

juice 1 tablespoon cold water 

y$ cup sugar 

Cover gelatin with cold water, let stand for 10 minutes. 
Mix yolks of eggs, fruit juices and sugar, and cook, stirring 
constantly with wire whisk until it thickens; add gelatin, and 
when it dissolves, set aside to cool. Add the beaten whites 
of eggs and with a Dover egg beater, beat until stiff enough 
to hold its shape. Line a glass bowl with lady fingers, pour in 
the mixture and chill. This is a quick method, given by Miss 
Farmar in her Boston Cook Book. 

Strawberry Bavarian Cream. 

1 quart box strawberries K box gelatin 

yi cup powdered sugar 1 cup boiling water 

1 cup cream, whipped 

Crush berries and sugar together and set aside for an 
hour. Rub through sieve if you wish to discard seeds. 
"Swell" the gelatin with cold water, dissolve with boiling 
water and add to the fruit pulp. When mixture begins to 
thicken, fold in the whipped cream; mould and chill. 

Raspberry Bavarian Cream 

is made according to preceding recipe. 

Jellied Oranges. 

Cut a slice from the tops of 8 medium sized oranges, or 
6 large ones. Reserve these slices. With a spoon carefully 
remove the pulp from the skins, keeping these latter entirely 
whole. Select about ]/ 2 the pulp, cut into neat pieces and 
sprinkle with sugar. Set aside in a cool place. Strain the re- 
mainder of the juice and pulp, rubbing it through a sieve. 



COLD DESSERTS 157 



Add to it the juice of 1 lemon. Dissolve 1 envelope Minute 
Gelatin, (or 1 tablespoon), in % cup boiling water, add 1 cup 
sugar and the orange juice. Mix with the cut orange, and 
fill the orange skins with the mixture. When cold and firm, 
tie the "lids" on with narrow ribbon. 

Wine Jelly. 

\4 box gelatin 1 cup sugar 

yi cup cold water 1 cup sherry wine 

2 cups boiling water yi cup orange juice 

Juice and grated rind of 1 lemon 

Cover gelatin with the cold water; when swelled, dis- 
solve with the boiling water. Add sugar and fruit juices. 
When slightly cool, add sherry and put away in bowl. This 
jelly will not be stiff enough to mould successfully, but is to 
be piled by the spoonful in a glass dish, or served in sherbet 
glasses with whipped cream on top. If wanted for a mould, 
decrease the quantity of boiling water by yi cup. 

Lemon Jelly. 

yi box gelatin soaked in 1 cup cold water 5 minutes, add £ 
cups boiling water, ^ cup sugar and ]/2 cup lemon juice. Strain. 

Orange Jelly. 

yi box gelatin soaked 5 minutes in }4 cup cold water. Add 
1 cup boiling water and 1 cup sugar. Stir until gelatin and sugar 
are dissolved. Add 1 pint orange juice and juice of 1 lemon. 
Strain. 

Jelly With Fruit. 

Make a lemon or orange jelly firm enough to mould; 4 
cups of liquid to }4 box of gelatin will mould unless the weather 
is very hot and damp, in which case add an extra K tablespoon. 
Use oranges, figs, nuts and white grapes for this mould. Peel 
and cut oranges in round slices, remove seeds and all white 
skin. Cut grapes in half and remove seeds. Set mould in 
a pan of cracked ice, and cover the bottom of it with the jelly. 
When firm enough to hold the fruit, arrange slices of oranges 
and use smaller fruits to decorate them. For instance, an 
orange slice at each end may be surrounded with a ring of 



158 WHATANDHOW 



white grapes, skin side down, while the nuts may be arranged 
as a star in the centre. Candied or Maraschino cherries add to 
the attractive appearance of the mould. Cover this layer of 
fruit with jelly, putting it on with a spoon so that the fruit will 
not be disarranged. Cut the figs in half crosswise, and line 
the upper part of the mould with them, dipping each piece 
in jelly to make it stick. Turn seed side next the mould. When 
jelly is firm enough, arrange another layer of fruit and fill up the 
mould with remaining jelly. Should jelly stiffen before you 
need it for filling up the mould, melt it by standing the bowl 
in hot water for a few minutes. To remove from mould, wring 
a towel from hot water, encircle the mould with it for an instant 
only, when the jelly will turn out without trouble; do not for- 
get to have the towel touch the bottom as well as the sides of 
the mould. 

To Mould Jelly. 
Rinse the moulds in cold water, before pouring in the 
jelly. To remove from moulds, wrap for an instant in a towel 
wrung out of hot water. To wring the towel, place it inside 
another towel, and twist the ends of the latter in opposite 
directions. This wrings the hot towel without its coming 
into contact with the hands. 

Orange Cream. 

Juice of 2 oranges Yolks of 3 eggs 

1 cup sugar }4 package granulated gelatin 

Grated rind of 1 orange 1 pint whipped cream 

Soak gelatin in cold water to cover, 5 minutes. Dissolve 
in 1 cup boiling water, add orange juice and rind. Keep warm 
while beating yolks of eggs and sugar together. Strain liquid 
into eggs, stirring constantly. Heat in double boiler, stirring 
until it reaches boiling point. Set aside to cool, and when 
thick beat in the whipped cream. Serve with cream or any 
good pudding sauce. 

Snow Pudding. 

Beat whites of four eggs until stiff, add }4 tablespoon 
granulated gelatin dissolved in 3 tablespoons hot water, beat 
until thoroughly mixed, add J4 cup powdered sugar, and flavor 



COLD DESSERTS 159 



with l /i teaspoon extract of lemon. Pile lightly on dish and 
serve with Custard Sauce. 

Charlotte Russe I. 

Whip 2 cups cream very stiff, add yi cup powdered sugar, 
whites 3 eggs, beaten very stiff, and flavor with 1 teaspoon 
lemon extract and 1 teaspoon vanilla. Line a glass dish with 
lady fingers split, fill with mixture and keep in cold place until 
ready for use. 

Charlotte Russe II. 

Dissolve }/$ box granulated gelatin in a little hot water. 
Whip 1 pint cream and add 1 cup powdered sugar and the 
gelatin. Flavor with 1 teaspoon vanilla and 1 tablespoon 
orange juice. When beginning to stiffen, stir in whites of 6 
eggs beaten until stiff and dry. Cut stale sponge cake in thin 
slices, spread half with strawberry jam, and half with currant 
jelly. Cover the bottom of a glass dish with slices spread with 
jam, over this put a layer of the mixture, about 2 inches thick, 
on top of this, a layer of cake spread with jelly and another 
layer of the mixture. Continue until dish is full. The mixture 
of tart and sweet preserves will be found delicious. 

Charlotte Russe III. 

1 tablespoon granulated gelatin 1 pint cream, whipped stiff 

yi cup cold water yi cup powdered sugar 

1 teaspoon vanilla 

Soak gelatin in the cold water and dissolve by stirring 
over hot water; strain into bowl and add the cream left after 
whip is removed. There should not be over )4 cup of this. 
(See directions for whipping cream.) Add sugar and flavor- 
ing, and then fold in the whipped cream. If not stiffening 
before the cream goes in, place bowl in a pan of cracked ice, 
and stir until it begins to grow stiff, then fold in the cream. 
Serve in individual frappe glasses lined with macaroons, and 
sprinkle powdered macaroons on top. A Maraschino cherry 
or strawberry cut in half may be added as a garnish. 



160 WHATANDHOW 



Charlotte Russe IV. 

Whip 2 cups cream until very stiff. Beat whites of 3 
eggs until perfectly dry. (See Chapter I.) Add ]4 cup 
powdered sugar, and fold in the whipped cream. To this 
may be added crushed macaroons, 1 cup of any fruit pulp, 
chopped nuts, or Maraschino cherries cut into bits. The 
flavoring may be vanilla or bitter almond extract. Serve in 
frappe glasses, garnishing with whole macaroons, strawberries 
or cherries. 

Easter Pudding. 

y^ cup candied cherries l /2 cup chopped nuts 

}^. lb. marshmallows 1 cup heavy cream 

2 tablespoons powdered sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 

Whip cream until stiff, adding sugar and vanilla. Add 
marshmallows cut into tiny pieces, the nuts, preferably English 
walnuts, and the cherries, also cut into small pieces. Keep in 
a very cold place until ready to serve in frappe glasses or large 
bowl. 

Strawberry Syllabub. 

1 pint whipped cream 1 cup strawberry preserves 

1 tablespoon gelatin dissolved in yi cup powdered sugar 

2 tablespoons hot water 1 teaspoon vanilla 

Add sugar, vanilla and gelatin to the whipped cream. 
When well mixed, add the preserves, and stir until they come 
to the top. Serve very cold. 

Strawberry Sponge. 

Yz box granulated gelatin 1 quart strawberries 

1 cup sugar Whites of 4 eggs 

1 cup boiling water 

Crush sugar and strawberries, and set aside for ]4, hour. 
Strain through cheese cloth, squeezing well to get the juice 
and pulp, or rub through a fine sieve. Soak gelatin 10 min- 
utes in y 2 cup cold water, add boiling water, stir until dis- 
solved and strain into strawberry juice. Set bowl in a pan 
of cracked ice and cool, stirring occasionally. When begin- 
-ning to thicken beat hard until it is a stiff froth; then add 
the well whipped whites of eggs and beat until smooth. 
Mould and chill. (See Chapter I.) Serve turned out in 



COLD DESSERTS 161 



glass dish and garnish with whole berries. Whipped cream 
may be used if convenient; pile it lightly around the mould 
and decorate with berries cut in half. Use the yolks of eggs 
for custard or bread pudding. 



Fruit Charlotte. 

2 oranges, pulp and juice 

4 bananas mashed and rubbed 1 package Minute gelatin 

through sieve 2 cups cream 

1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon sherry wine 

Dissolve gelatin in 2 tablespoons boiling water, mix 
fruit, sugar, lemon juice and wine, and stir in the gelatin. 
Set the bowl in a pan of ice water, and stir until it cools. In 
the meantime have the cream whipped and cold; fold it into 
the mixture. This ma^ be moulded as in preceding recipe, 
or it may be put into orange skins. Cut oranges in half cross- 
wise, take out pulp and throw into ice water until needed. 
Wipe dry, fill each half with the Charlotte, and when firm, 
tie two together with narrow ribbon, and serve over a lace 
doiley or a grape leaf. 



Vanilla Junket. 

1 rennet tablet 4 cups lukewarm milk 

1 tablespoon cold water 1 teaspoon vanilla 

Sugar to taste 

Crush the tablet in the cold water, stir into the warm 
milk, add flavoring and sweeten to taste. Keep in a warm 
place until it "sets," remove to the refrigerator and chill. 



Junket Desserts 

may be varied in many ways; the milk may be flavored with 
strong coffee infusion, which gives coffee junket; the plain 
junket may be flavored with a little vanilla, nutmeg may be 
grated on top, and it is very dainty served in frappe glasses with 
whipped cream on top. Of course, it must be poured into 
these glasses before it "sets." 



162 WHATANDHOW 



HOT DESSERTS. 



Apple Dumplings. 

Butter six muffin rings, and set in a shallow baking pan, 
fill rings with apples pared and sliced very thin, packed in 
tight and piled up slightly. Sift together four times one and 
one-half cups of pastry flour, a half teaspoon salt, two tea- 
spoons baking powder. Chop in a quarter of a cup of lard 
and butter mixed, and stir in with a knife a half cup of water. 
Drop this dough on the apples, smoothing and shaping. Bake 
about twenty minutes or until apples are tender, and the dough 
well baked. Remove with a cake turner to hot plates. The muf- 
fin rings will slip off easily. Serve with Raspberry or Straw- 
berry Sauce. 

Buttered Apples. 

Peel and core medium sized apples, butter rounds of 
toasted bread (half inch thick.) Place an apple on each round, 
fill up the hole with sugar, and put a piece of butter on top. 
Bake in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes. Refill the cavities 
with sugar, flavoring with cinnamon; bake fifteen minutes 
longer, until apples are done, the time depending on quality 
of fruit. Serve hot with few drops of lemon juice, sprinkled 
over each apple. 

Steamed Apple Dumplings. 

2 cups Apple Sauce 2 cups flour 

1 teaspoon baking powder 1 tablespoon butter 

yi teaspoon salt 

Make apple sauce according to directions. Sift flour, 
baking powder and salt together, and chop in the butter. Add 
enough milk to make a soft dough. (See Chapter I.) Butter 
6 muffin rings and arrange them on a baking sheet. If you do 
not have one, use large pie plates. Fill each ring half full of 
apple sauce and drop a tablespoon of the dough on top. Bake 
20 minutes in hot oven. With a cake turner, remove each dump- 
ling, ring and all, to the plate on which it is to be served, turn- 
ing it over so that the apple sauce is on top. Each dumpling 
should be a round ball, half apple and half crust. Serve hot, 
with Hard Sauce, or any good pudding sauce. 



HOTDESSERTS 163 



Cherry Dumplings. 

Two cups flour, 1 teaspoon baking powder, sifted to- 
gether. Chop into this 1 tablespoon butter or Crisco, add one 
cup of milk, and mix with a knife. Roll out thin, cut into four 
inch squares. In the centre of each put cherries stoned and 
sugared, pinch corners together, lay upside down on a baking 
sheet, which has been well greased or waxed. Bake in a hot 
oven about twenty minutes. Serve with Hard Sauce. 

Roger Rock Pudding. 

Slice either peaches or apples on two well buttered pie 
plates. Make a batter of 1 cup flour, 1 teaspoon baking powder 
and pinch of salt sifted together, 2 well beaten eggs, 1 table- 
spoon butter, melted. Mix with milk to the consistency of 
sponge cake batter. Beat well and pour over the pans of fruit. 
Bake in a quick oven, for half an hour, turn one out on a plate, 
sprinkle with granulated sugar, turn the other one on top, and 
sprinkle with sugar. Serve hot with pudding sauce. 

Peach Cups. 

8 large ripe peaches 1 teaspoon baking powder 

2 eggs 1 tablespoon melted butter 

% cup milk \}4 cups flour 

yi teaspoon salt 

Pare peaches and cut in half. Mash four halves, add the 
yolks of eggs, beaten, the milk, butter and salt. Sift flour 
and baking powder together, and add to batter. Fold in the 
beaten whites of eggs. Grease twelve custard cups. Into 
the bottom of each one put a layer of the batter, on top of 
this half of a peach, rounded side down, cover with a layer 
of batter, and dust with granulated sugar. Bake twenty min- 
utes, turn from the cups, and serve with Hard Sauce. 

Apple Cups. 

may be made from same recipe, substituting sliced apples for 
the peaches. 



164 WHAT AND HOW 



Macaroon Souffle. 



Soak % pound macaroons in 1 cup cream until soft. Heat 
to boiling and pour gradually over the beaten yolks of 3 eggs. 
Beat until cool. Fold in whites of 3 eggs whipped stiff and 
dry, flavor with }£ teaspoon extract bitter almond. Bake in 
buttered mould 10 minutes. Turn out and serve with Whipped 
Cream Sauce. 

Steamed Chocolate Pudding. 

1 cup flour y^ cup sugar 

1 teaspoon baking powder 3 tablespoons melted butter 

yi teaspoon cinnamon y A cup milk 

1 egg 2 squares chocolate 

Sift flour, baking powder and cinnamon together three 
times, beat eggs separately. To the beaten yolks, add grad- 
ually the sugar, butter and milk. Stir this mixture into the 
flour. Melt the chocolate over hot water, add to the mix- 
ture, and fold in the beaten whites of eggs. Steam twenty- 
five minutes in buttered cups. To steam stand the cups in a 
pan of boiling water, in the oven. Serve with a pudding sauce. 



Cottage Pudding. 

1 cup sugar 1 cup milk 

1 tablespoon butter 2^ cups flour 

2 eggs 2 teaspoons baking powder 

% teaspoon salt 

Cream the butter and sugar, add yolks and beat. Sift 
flour, baking powder and salt together, and add alternately, 
with the milk; fold in the beaten whites. Bake in a greased 
mould, or in muffin tins. Serve with a pudding sauce. 



Sago Pudding. 

Soak y 2 cup sago in 1 cup water 2 hours; drain and cook 
in a double boiler with 1 quart milk until sago is clear, stir- 
ring several times. Add 1 tablespoon butter, 4 tablespoons 
sugar and 3 eggs, beaten light. Bake for 20 minutes in greased 
baking dish, and serve with cream. This is a wholesome pud- 
ding for children, and can be eaten either hot or cold. 



HOT DESSERTS 165 



Souffles. 

Souffles are not successful unless served as soon as baked. 
They fall in a very few moments if allowed to stand. 
Therefore unless you are sure of your meal time do not attempt 
them. >4 teaspoon of cream of tartar added to the whites of 
the eggs before they are entirely whipped will help to keep 
the souffle from falling. 

Lemon Souffle. 

•4 eggs 1 cup sugar 

Grated rind and juice of 1 lemon 

Beat yolks until thick, add sugar beating continuously, 
and rind and juice of lemon. Cut and fold in the whipped 
whites of the eggs, bake 35 minutes in a bake dish set in pan 
of water. All souffles are baked in this manner. 

Spanish Souffle. 

l /i cup butter 1 tablespoon sugar 

yi cup stale bread crumbs 3 eggs 

1 cup milk yi teaspoon vanilla 

Melt butter and stir in crumbs, add milk and sugar, and 
cook 20 minutes in double boiler. Remove from fire, add 
yolks of eggs, unbeaten, and when mixed, cut and fold in 
whipped whites of eggs and add vanilla. Bake as directed 
for Lemon Souffle. 

Suet Pudding. 

1 cup milk 1 cup currants 

1 cup molasses 1 cup flour 

1 cup suet, shredded 2 cups fresh bread crumbs 

1 cup seeded raisins 2 teaspoons baking powder 

Pinch of salt 

The suet may be easily shredded by putting it through 
the meat chopper, otherwise it is a tedious operation. Mix 
all ingredients, the flour sifted with the baking powder last, 
and boil for 2 hours in a well greased mould. Tomato cans 
make excellent moulds for boiling puddings. Turn them 
upside down on the stove until the tops melt off. Grease 
well arid fill half full of the mixture; tie a piece of cheese cloth 
over the top and stand in a kettle of water deep enough to 



166 WHATANDHOW 



come half way up the can. Boil steadily but not too hard; 
if the water ceases boiling the pudding will be soggy and heavy. 
These puddings will keep for several days. Serve with Sabyon 
Sauce or Quick Sauce. To reheat boil half hour. This is really 
steaming the pudding, since the true boiled pudding is tied in a 
clothtand immersed in water. 



Fig Pudding. 

Yi lb. suet, chopped yi cup milk 

yi lb. figs, chopped 2 eggs 

2^3 cups bread crumbs 1 cup sugar 

yi teaspoon salt 

Put suet and figs through meat chopper, coarse cutter. 
With a fork, cream this mixture until smooth. Add crumbs 
soaked in milk, eggs well beaten, sugar and salt. Turn into 
greased moulds and steam 3 hours. 

St. James' Pudding. 

3 tablespoons butter yi teaspoon salt 

yi cup molasses yi teaspoon cloves 

yi cup milk yi teaspoon allspice 

\}i cups flour yi teaspoon nutmeg 

yi teaspoon soda yi lb. dates, stoned and chopped 

Melt butter, add molasses, milk, dates and dry ingred- 
ients sifted together. Steam as directed above. 

These three boiled or steamed puddings, I have used 
successfully for years, and can recommend them as simple 
and delicious winter desserts. 



Plum'Pudding. 

3 cups suet chopped 3 cups sugar 

3 cups seeded raisins 3 cups currants 

1 cup citron, sliced 2 cups flour 

2 teaspoons baking powder 2 teaspoons cinnamon 
1 teaspoon cloves 1 cup milk 

4 eggs 

Sift dry ingredients twice. Beat eggs, add milk and fruit 
with suet, beat well. Last, add dry ingredients, turn into well 
greased moulds and boil according to directions for Suet Pud- 
ding. 



HOT DESSERTS 167 



Fruit Pudding. 

.) eggs yi lb. suet 

1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon grated nutmeg 

2 cups milk 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 
2 cups flour 1 teaspoon ground cloves 

2 oz. citron, chopped >•£ lb. seeded raisins 

}4 lb. dried currants 

Remove skin from suet and pass it through the meat 
chopper with the citron. To secure all of it, run 1 tablespoon 
of the raisins through after the suet and citron. Beat the 
yolks of eggs, add sugar, spices, suet and fruit with the milk. 
Mix thoroughly, sift in the flour, and lastly fold in the beaten 
whites of the eggs. Turn into a greased baking dish, and 
bake in a steady oven for \% hours. The fireless cooker will 
do^ this admirably for you, if it is provided with baking 
stones. 



168 WHAT AND HOW 



CHAPTER XIII 



PUDDING SAUCES. 
Orange Sauce. 

Whites 3 eggs Juice and grated rind 2 oranges 

1 cup powdered sugar Juice 1 lemon 

Beat whites until stiff, add sugar gradually and continue 
beating until smooth. Add fruit juices and rind. 

Chocolate Sauce. 

2 cups milk 2 tablespoons hot water 

1 tablespoon corn starch 2 eggs 

2 squares chocolate % cup powdered sugar 
2 tablespoons powdered sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 

Scald l}i cups milk, rub corn starch smooth with re- 
maining milk, and add to scalded milk. Cook 8 minutes in 
double boiler. Melt chocolate over hot water, add 2 table- 
spoons sugar and the hot water; stir until smooth, then add 
to cooked mixture; beat whites of eggs until stiff, add pow- 
dered sugar gradually, add unbeaten yolks and continue beat- 
ing until smooth. Stir into the cooked mixture, cook 1 min- 
ute, add vanilla and cool. This is the sauce used over ice 
cream as well as cottage pudding or puffs. It is Miss Farmar's 
recipe. 

Hard Sauce. 

2 tablespoons butter 1 cup powdered sugar 
Juice 1 lemon 2 gratings nutmeg 

Cream butter and sugar until white and very smooth, 
add lemon juice and nutmeg. Keep in cold place until needed. 
Creamy Sauce. 

To Hard Sauce, add the stiffly beaten white of 1 egg, stir- 
ring it in gradually. 

Fruit Sauce. 

To Hard Sauce, add }4 cup crushed strawberries, or peach 
pulp, and the beaten white of 1 egg. Beat hard until well 
mixed. 



PUDDING SAUCES 169 



Lemon Sauce. 

1 cup sugar 9 tablespoons boiling water 

I2 teaspoon grated lemon peel Juice 1 lemon 

Yolks 3* eggs 

Cook sugar and water for 15 minutes without stirring, 
adding lemon juice and peel when it begins to boil. Heat yolks 
of eggs light, pour syrup over them very gradually. Stir mix- 
ture over boiling water until it thickens. 

Meringue Sauce. 

K cup boiling water 1 cup powdered sugar 

2 tablespoons fruit juice K cup butter 

White 1 egg, beaten stiff 

Cream butter and sugar, beating until very light. Add 
fruit juice, gradually to avoid curdling, the water and egg. 
If not ready for instant use do not add water and egg until 
ready to serve. 

Caramel Sauce. 

yi cup sugar ^2 cup boiling water 

Melt sugar, as for Caramel Custard, add water, and sim- 
mer 10 minutes. Add water carefully, as temperature of sugar 
is very high and causes water to boil furiously. 

Sabyon Sauce. 

Grated rind and juice of >£ lemon y$ cup sugar 

yi cup orange juice 2 eggs 

Mix lemon, orange juice, sugar, and yolks of eggs, stir 
vigorously over the fire, using a wire whisk. When it thickens, 
pour over the whites of eggs beaten stiff. Continue beating 
only long enough to mix well. If necessary to keep hot, put 
the sauce pan in another containing hot water; it is equally 
good cold. 

Quick Sauce. 

2 eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla 

1 cup powdered sugar 

Beat yolks of eggs light, add half the sugar gradually; 
beat whites of eggs stiff, add remaining sugar gradually; com- 
bine mixtures and- add flavoring. This is a recipe of Miss 
Farmar's with a different name. I know of no pudding 



170 WHATANDHOW 



sauce to equal it, and it can be made in a few moments. It 
may be varied by using any flavoring extract in place of the 
vanilla. 

Maple Sugar Sauce for Ice Cream. 

2 cups sugar yi cup water 

yi cup English walnut meats yi teaspoon Mapleine 

Boil sugar and water without stirring until it spins a 
thread from the tip of the spoon. Add nuts, broken into small 
pieces, and Mapleine. Serve hot, over vanilla ice cream. 

Custard Sauce. 

Make a plain boiled custard (see directions, Chapter XII), 
using 2 cups milk, 3 eggs and % cup sugar. Fold in the whipped 
whites of eggs and flavor with vanilla. 

Pistache Sauce. 

2 cups boiling water 1 cup sugar 

]A tablespoon corn starch }4 teaspoon extract bitter almond 

Pistache green 

Rub corn starch smooth with a little cold water, stir into 
boiling water. Add sugar and cook, stirring constantly for 
10 minutes. Remove from fire, add coloring, a drop at a time 
until a pale green, flavor, and serve either hot or cold. 

Maple Sauce. 

2 eggs Y A cup hot water 

1 tablespoon sugar yi teaspoon Mapleine 

Beat eggs separately. To the yolks add sugar and mix. 
Stir the Mapeleine into hot water, and add gradually to the 
eggs and sugar. Whip whites of eggs and fold in. If maple 
flavor is not strong enough, add % or 3 drops more. 

Whipped Cream Sauce. 

1 cup cream, whipped stiff 1 egg white, whipped 

yi cup powdered sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 

Add sugar and flavoring to cream before whipping, fold 
in the egg white. One teaspoon extract of bitter almond may 
be used instead of vanilla. 






PUDDING SAUCES 171 



Vanilla Sauce. 

1 cup butter 1 cup milk 

1 cup powdered sugar 1 tablespoon vanilla 

Cream butter and sugar, melt in double boiler, add milk 
and stir until smooth and creamy. Add vanilla and serve hot. 
This same sauce may be flavored with extract bitter almond, 
extract lemon, or orange*water. 



172 WHAT AND HOW 

CHAPTER XIV 

PASTRY. 

Use pastry flour and whatever shortening you wish pro- 
vided it be very cold and solid. Lard makes a tender crust, 
butter gives more flavor, while Crisco combines the good qual- 
ities of both. It is said that French cooks make their best 
pastry of suet; whatever is used, it must be of the best qual- 
ity. The lightness of pastry depends upon the air enclosed 
in it and the expansion of that air in the baking; the flakiness 
of the crust depends upon its handling and the proper con- 
dition of the shortening. For this reason the room in which 
the work is done should be cold, the hands must not touch 
the pastry except when absolutely necessary, and then in the 
lightest possible manner, iced water must be used to mix, and 
board and rolling pin must be very cold. Do not grease the 
pie plates, good pastry never sticks, and allow for shrinking in 
the baking, by cutting larger than the pan, and fitting around 
the edges slightly full. In trimming off edges, hold the knife 
slanting from the plate to avoid cutting too small. The 
shortening is chopped into the flour with a broad knife, and 
the chopping must continue until the mixture is like coarse 
sand. Add the water cautiously, stirring it in with the knife, 
and do not use any more than just enough to mix a stiff dough 
If too much water be added, the crust will not be tender. 

Puff paste is not the impossible thing it is generally sup- 
posed to be. If directions be carefully followed, success is 
more certain than with the plainer pastry, but there must 
not be the slightest variation or deviation from the methods 
as explained below, nor should it be undertaken without a 
careful reading of directions as given here. 

Bake pies in a hot oven from half hour to three quar- 
ters. To ensure a well baked under crust, use perforated tin 
plates. When using two crusts, brush the edges of the lower 
crust with cold water before putting on the upper crust, and 
press them together with a fork. The water serves to hold 
the crusts together. Without it the top crust will come apart 



PASTRY 173 



from the lower one, allowing the juices to escape and mak- 
ing an unsightly pie. Always prick the top crust to allow 
the steam to escape. 

When pies are very juicy, cut a funnel of white paper, 
insert it in a small hole in the centre of the pie and the juice 
will collect in it, returning to its proper place as the pie cools. 

1 o Glaze a Pie. 

When the pie is ready to bake, dot it with tiny bits of 
butter, dredge with flour, and holding it in one hand tip it 
slightly and pour water over it from a cup, rinsing off the 
flour that does not adhere to the butter. This gives a profes- 
sional air to the crust when baked. 

Puff Paste. 

1 lb. pastry flour 1 lb. butter 

Ice water 

Wash butter (see Chapter I) and wipe dry. Chop % of 
it into the sifted flour, mix with ice water and roll out into 
an oblong sheet with square corners and about y± inch thick. 
With the rolling pin, pat the remaining butter into a flat piece 
twice as thick as the crust. Place this on one end of crust, 
cover butter with the other half and press edges firmly together 
with the fingers, touching it very lightly. Cover with a cloth 
and put in a very cold place for 5 minutes. Do not guess at 
the time, go by the clock. Turn around half way, so that the 
rolling out the second time will be exactly at right angles to the 
first rolling. Pat lightly with the roller to flatten slightly, roll 
out in oblong shape again, keeping the corners square. Use 
the knife to turn the dough to the centre from one end, fold 
the other end over it, and again pinch edges together to keep 
the air enclosed. Cover and set aside for another 5 minutes. 
Turn dough again so that the side becomes the end from which 
you roll. Roll out as before, this time folding both ends to the 
middle and doubling it over. This gives four thicknesses of 
dough, the second folding gave three, while the first gave two. 
Lay aside again for 5 minutes. If it is not cold out of doors, 
wrap in cloth, lay on plate and put on the ice. But I would 



174 WHAT AND HOW 



strongly advise against making this pastry in warm weather. 
Use summer pastry as given below. 

After the fourth rolling, chill thoroughly before cutting 
out the pies or tarts, and after these are made, chill again 
before baking. This quantity will make 2 large pies, or 30 
tarts. 

Plain Pastry. 

1}4 cups flour sifted with 1 tea- 1 cup lard and butter mixed, or ^ cup 

spoon baking powder Crisco 

A pinch of salt 

Chop shortening, which should be very cold, into the 
flour, and mix with a little ice water into a stiff dough. Do 
not handle except to shape it ready for rolling. It is now ready 
for use. 

Summer Pastry. 

4 cups pastry flour, sifted 4 tablespoons butter 

Wash butter, chop l A of it into the flour, mix with ice 
water until it is a stiff dough. Roll out, dot it over with the 
rest of the butter; beginning at one end, roll it up. Turn 
around, flatten with rolling pin and roll into an oblong sheet. 
Roll up again, and put into ice chest for several hours or until 
the next day. It is better pastry after a long rest in the re- 
frigerator. 

Suet Pastry. 

Two cups flour, sifted with }4 teaspoon salt and 1 tea- 
spoon baking powder, 1 cup suet, skinned and put through 
meat chopper. Proceed as for plain pastry. This is fine for 
meat pies and dumplings. If ingredients are very cold, and 
mixing and rolling out be carefully done, the result will be a 
flaky and delicious crust. 

Making a Pie. 

To a novice there is no more trying moment than that 
when the dough is being rolled and shaped for the plate. To 
get it just thin enough and not too thin, to keep it from stick- 
ing to the board and tearing, and to transfer it safely to the 
plate are to be achieved by faithful practice only, requiring 
infinite patience until skill is acquired. I do not mean this 



PASTRY 175 



as a discouraging note, but rather to encourage the worker 
who fails at first and to assure her of ultimate success if she 
is willing to keep on trying. Keep in mind while rolling out, 
the shape of your plate, and do not allow the dough to be 
of uneven thickness. If you do not succeed at first, with 
the knife gather the dough together, and shape it lightly with 
the tips of your fingers; roll out again. Several rollings will 
not damage the crust, provided you avoid handling it. If 
making 2 crusts, cut the dough in half before you start to 
roll it ready for cutting. When ready for the plate, double 
it over and place the fold across the middle of the plate, then 
open it out and press firmly to the edge of the plate. Bal- 
ancing it on one .hand, with a sharp knife trim it off, slant- 
ing the knife away from the plate. Brushing over the lower 
crust with white of egg, slightly beaten, will prevent the juice 
of fruit from soaking into the crust, which will make it soggy. 
Fold the upper crust in the same manner, brushing between 
edges of crusts with cold water as directed at the beginning of 
this chapter. Prick the crust well to allow the escape of steam. 
Gather up all the pieces of dough remaining, roll out, sprinkle 
with sugar, press it into the dough with the rolling pin, and 
cut out with cooky cutter. Bake. Or, sprinkle with cheese, 
roll up tightly, roll out again and sprinkle the second time with 
cheese. Cut into strips and bake. iVfter trimming the lower 
crust, do not add remaining fragments to the dough for upper 
crust, unless you need them. 

Patties. 

Roll out Puff Paste % inch thick. Cut out with a scal- 
loped cooky cutter. Cut as many of these rounds as you de- 
sire patties; they are the bottoms of your patty shells. Al- 
low 2 more circles for each shell, cut the centres from these 
with a smaller cutter, or a tumbler of thin glass. Brush the 
edge of one of the under pieces with ice water, fit a ring over 
this, pressing with the fingers until the edges fit closely. Again 
brush with water, and fit another ring on top. When all are 
ready, put in a cold place until they are thoroughly chilled and 
stiff. They are best baked on the Russia iron baking tins 



176 WHAT AND HOW 



recommended for biscuits and small cakes, and should be 
placed upon these as fast as they are put together. Bake 
about 25 minutes, or until a golden brown. They should rise 
to their full height without browning in the first ten minutes. 

Fruit Shells. 

Turn a perforated tin pie plate upside down, and cover it 
with pastry, either puff paste or plain. Prick it well and bake. 
Roll Out the remnants, cut into rings and crescents, or any 
fancy shapes, and bake these. When baked, remove the shell 
from the plate, fill with any kind of cooked fruit or marmalade 
and decorate with the pastry figures. 

Apple Pie. 

Use plain or summer pastry, cover bottom of pie plate 
with it, cut apples into small blocks rather than slices; they 
will cook in less time as they do not lie so close; fill plate very 
full to allow for shrinking. Sprinkle generously with sugar and 
grate a little nutmeg over it. Add 1 teaspoon lemon juice, 
and the grated rind of y 2 lemon. Now using a piece of butter 
the size of a hickory nut, dot it over the apples. Brush edges 
of lower crust with cold water, cover with upper crust and press 
edges together with a fork. It will take this pie about Y^ hour 
to bake. 

Irish Apple Pie. 

Line sides and bottom of a deep earthen dish (or basin, 
as they call it in Ireland) with pastry. Cut the apples into 
quarters and then into eighths. Arrange them neatly in the 
dish, sprinkling each layer with sugar and a little cinnamon. 
When dish is full, pour over it % cup water, and cover with 
puff paste if you have it; if not, use plain pastry. Bake for 
an hour if the dish is large and the pie deep as it should be. 
In using puff paste for pies, it is better to confine it to the 
upper crust alone, using a plain paste for under crusts. Apples 
for cooking should always be sour. 

Peach Cobbler. 

Select peaches of uniform size and good flavor. Pare, 
and drop into cold water to keep from discoloring. Line the 



PASTRY 177 



sides of a pudding dish with pastry, fill dish with peaches, 
sprinkle generously with sugar, add r X cup water, and cover 
with pastry. Bake ^ hour and serve with plenty of cream. 
The peaches should be piled high enough to come above the 
edge of the pan in the middle, as they will shrink in the bak- 
ing. Peaches are not to be cut, but kept whole with the stones. 

French Apple Pie. 

Fill a deep pie plate with apples cut in slices. Sweeten 
and flavor with nutmeg, lemon juice, or cinnamon, or a com- 
bination as given in recipe for Apple Pie. Add 1 tablespoon 
water and cover with any good pie crust. Bake ^ hour or 
until apples are tender and crust nicely brown. When done 
turn upside down on a plate and eat hot with cream. This 
is a delicious pie if it does not stand long enough for the crust 
to become soggy from the apples. Pass slices of cheese with 
apple pie. 

Blackberry Pie. 

Wash berries, shake dry in a colander and dredge with 
flour. To 1 pint berries allow )4 cup sugar; sprinkle it over 
them before putting on top crust, and dot over with tiny bits 
of butter. Bake ]4 hour. This method applies to all pies 
made of berries. 

Mince Meat. 

\}4 lbs. suet, chopped \}4 lbs. citron, cut fine 

5 lbs. apples, chopped 3 tablespoons cinnamon 

3 lbs. seeded raisins, chopped 1 nutmeg, grated 
1 l A lbs. Sultana raisins 1 teaspoon mace 
1 lbs. currants 1 teaspoon cloves 

1 tablespoon salt • 1 tablespoon allspice 

4 lbs. brown sugar 1 quart brandy 
3 lbs. lean beef, boiled and chopped fine Cider 

Being an old-fashioned recipe, the measure of cider is 
rather indefinite. My experience has shown that it requires 
rather more than 2 quarts. It may be possible to keep mince 
meat without the brandy, but I have not succeeded in doing 
it. Therefore, if one does not care to use the liquor, it will 
be best to make mince meat in smaller quantities and not at- 
tempt to use more than % of this recipe. 



178 WHATANDHOW 



Barred Pies. 

Marion Harland divides pies into three varieties, quoting 
a Southerner who calls them "Kivered, unkivered and 
barred." We have considered the "kivered kind," and leav- 
ing the "unkivered" for the last, will take up now the barred. 

Line the pie plate, and fit around the edge of it over the 
lower crust a band of the dough about ^ inch wide, brushing 
the under crust with cold water. Now cross the pie, after 
putting in the fruit or mince meat, with bands the width of 
the rim, 5 or 6 of them, pinching the ends to make them ad- 
here to the rim. Brush the latter with cold water and put 
on it a second rim, covering the ends of the strips; bake about 
half an hour. To "lattice" the pie, cut the strips half the width, 
lay 6 of these across the fruit, and cross again with 6 other 
strips, weaving them under and over the first strips. Pinch 
ends well to under crust; brush ends with cold water and cover 
with a rim. 

Lemon Meringue. 

1 cup water 1 large lemon, or 

1 tablespoon corn starch 2 small lemons 

Yolks of 2 eggs Whites of 2 eggs 

yi cup sugar Pinch of salt 

Mix corn starch smooth with a little water. Stir into the 
water heated in double boiler. Add juice and grated rind of 
the lemon and cook, stirring constantly until it thickens. Have 
ready the egg yolks beaten with sugar, add to corn starch and 
beat well. Follow directions in next recipe for baking. 

Lemon Custard I. 

yi cup sugar 1 cup bread crumbs 

}-i cup butter 3 eggs 

Juice and grated rind 2 lemons 

Soak crumbs, in milk to cover, for 1 hour. Cream but- 
ter and sugar, add beaten yolks of eggs and the whipped white 
of 1 egg, reserving the others for the meringue. Now add 
lemon juice and rind, and the soaked crumbs. Line a pie 
plate with Plain or Summer Pastry, fit a rim around, as de- 
scribed above, and pour the mixture into it. Bake in a hot 
steady oven until a good brown color. It will be about yi 



PASTRY 179 



hour. When done, draw to the door of the oven, and spread 
with a meringue made of the beaten whites of 2 eggs, with 
% tablespoons powdered sugar; return to oven just long enough 
to brown it delicately. 

Lemon Custard II. 

i tablespoons butter 2 lemons, juice and prated rind 

1>2 cups sugar 4 eggs 

Cream butter and sugar, add beaten yolks of eggs, lemon 
juice and grated rind. Cover a pie plate with a good crust, 
put a rim on it, and pour in the custard. Bake until custard 
sets and crust is a light brown color. Make a meringue of 
the beaten w r hites of eggs and 4 tablespoons powdered sugar, 
and brown lightly in oven. 

Cocoanut Custard I. 

}4 cup butter White 6 eggs 

\ l /£ cups powdered sugar 1 tablespoon rose water 

yi. a cocoanut, grated 

Never use dried or dessicated cocoanut. If you do not 

care to grate it yourself, the fresh grated cocoanut can be had 

from a confectioner. Cream butter and sugar, add cocoanut 

and flavoring. Fold in the whipped wdiites of eggs, pour into 

pie plate lined as directed above, and bake in hot oven. 

Cocoanut Custard II. 

3 eggs 3 tablespoons grated cocoanut 

2 cups milk *4 cup sugar 

Scald milk, pour gradually over the egg yolks slightly 

beaten with the sugar, add cocoanut and bake as directed, 

covering with a meringue of the whites of eggs beaten and 2 

tablespoons powdered sugar. 

Pumpkin Pie I. 

3 cups pumpkin 3 eggs 

*>4 cup milk 1 cup sugar 

1 tablespoon melted butter 1 lemon, juice and grated rind 

]4. teaspoon cinnamon % teaspoon nutmeg 

K teaspoon salt 

Separate eggs. Add yolks to pumpkin, next sugar, spices, 

lemon and milk in order given. Bake according to directions 

given for Lemon Custard. 



180 WHATANDHOW 



Pumpkin Pie II. 

3 cups boiled and mashed pumpkin % cup molasses 

2 cups milk 4 eggs 

1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon ginger 

}i teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon cinnamon 

1 teaspoon grated nutmeg 

Drain the mashed pumpkin until free of all water. Beat 
eggs separately. Mix all ingredients except the egg whites, 
and beat hard. Fold in these, and bake as directed for Apple 
Custard. This pie may be barred if desired. 

Sweet Potato Custard. 

3 cups boiled and mashed sweet $4 cup sugar 
potato 4 eggs 

l /i cup butter 1 lemon, juice and grated rind 

2 tablespoons brandy 1 teaspoon cinnamon 

Cream the butter and sugar, add the beaten yolks of 
eggs, the flavorings, and the potato, pressed through a sieve 
or potato ricer. Beat well, and bake as directed for lemon 
custard, add the meringue when pie is baked. (See time table 
for baking pies and custards.) 

Apple Custard. 

Pare, quarter and cut into thin slices, 6 or 8 large apples. 
Cook in double boiler until soft, without adding any water. 
Rub through a fine sieve, and stir in while hot, a tablespoon 
of butter. When the butter is melted and the apple sauce 
cool, add the beaten yolks of 4 eggs and sweeten to taste. 
Flavor with lemon juice, the grated rind of ^ a lemon and a 
little nutmeg. It is not possible to give exact quantity of 
sugar, as it will depend upon the kind of apples used. Cover a 
pie plate with a good crust, put a rim on it, as directed, and 
bake until the custard is set; test with a silver knife; when it 
comes out clean after thrusting into the middle of the custard, 
there need be no doubt that the custard is set. Cover with a 
meringue of the beaten whites and 4 tablespoons powdered 
sugar, and brown in oven. This is one of the most delicious 
pies that one could serve to her family or guests. It is delicate 
and light, thus is better to serve after a full dinner than some 
of the richer pies. 



PASTRY 181 



Eccles Cakes. 

Make any good pastry as for pies. Take a piece the size 
of a large egg and roll it out the shape and size of a teaplate, 
making it thinner around the edges than in the centre. Al- 
lowing a heaping tablespoon dried currants for each cake, 
measure, wash and pat them between two towels to dry par- 
tially. Put into a bowl, sprinkle liberally with sugar and 
moisten with orange juice or preserved fruit juice of any kind. 
Mix thoroughly and put a tablespoonful in the centre of each 
round of pastry. Gather the edges together over the mixture, 
pinch them well so that they will not come apart in the baking, 
and press lightly with rolling pin; with a sharp knife cut a slit 
an inch long to allow steam to escape and bake 20 or 25 minutes. 

The flavoring may be varied according to individual 
tastes, the syrup from spiced peaches or plums makes a 
good liquid for moistening, as does also lemon juice diluted 
with a little water. 

Banbury Tarts. 

Roll out puff paste and cut circles the desired size. An 
ordinary saucer about 5 inches in diameter can be used, cutting 
around it with a knife. Place the filling on one side of this 
circle and fold the other side over, moistening the edges with 
cold water and pressing them well together. With a tined fork 
mark around the edges. This helps hold them together. An 
ordinary silver fork will not do, use either a three or four tined 
kitchen fork. Prick three times on top to let out steam. Ar- 
range on a baking sheet and bake in a moderate oven hot 
enough to brown them after they swell to their full size. 

Filling for Banbury Tarts. 

Xyi cups seeded raisins 1 egg 

1 cup sugar 1 lemon, juice and grated rind 

yi cup nuts 

Put raisins and nuts through meat chopper, add egg 
slightly beaten, sugar and lemon juice. Let this mixture 
stand several hours before using. 



182 WHATANDHOW 



CHAPTER XV 



ICE CREAM AND FROZEN FRUITS. 

To freeze ice cream, water ice, frozen fruits, frozen pud- 
dings and mousse, use 1 measure of coarse salt to 3 meas- 
ures pounded ice. Use a burlap bag to hold the ice, and crush 
with the broad side of an axe, or a heavy wooden mallet. Turn 
out into a bucket, mix with the salt, and pack solidly around 
the can. After placing the can in the wooden tub, adjust the 
handle to make sure that it is in the socket and will turn prop- 
erly. After ice and salt have been packed around the can, 
remove the lid and wipe it perfectly dry before pouring in the 
mixture to be frozen. Do not fill the can too full, the mixture 
will increase in bulk during the process, at least one-fourth, 
generally more. 

Turn crank slowly at first, more rapidly after it begins 
to freeze, and when done, remove the dasher, using great care 
that no salt finds its way into the cream; mix ice and salt for 
repacking, in proportion of 1 of salt to 4 of ice. Cover with 
carpet or newspaper to exclude air. Frozen mixtures should 
always "ripen" for two or three hours after being repacked. 

Note the difference in quantity of salt used in packing 
after cream is frozen. If too much salt is used, the ice will melt 
rapidly, necessitating repacking. All freezers should have a 
hole near the top of outside tub for the escape of water. Pour 
all water out before repacking. 

To Mould Mousse. 

All mixtures to be frozen without stirring may be moulded 
in melon moulds or in baking powder cans, 1 pound size. Fill 
mould to overflowing, cover with waxed paper, and put on the 
lid. The mixture flowing over the edges, freezes and prevents 
the entrance of salt water. 

A mousse contains whipped cream and gelatine, and is 
frozen in a mould without stirring. 

Parfait is a mixture of eggs and syrup with whipped cream, 
and is frozen like mousse. 



ICE CREAM AND FROZEN FRUITS is:; 



Sherbet is water ice with whites of eggs added. 

Sorbet is frozen punch. 

Frappe is a water ice combined with rich cream and frozen. 
Served always in sherbet glasses at afternoon teas or similar 
functions. 

Vanilla Ice Cream I. 

This is the old-fashioned ice cream for which Wilming- 
ton was famous a generation or two ago. Good ice cream 
may be made by using substitutes for rich cream, but this' 
stands in a class entirely by itself, as the very best ice cream 
that can be made. 

l /i a vanilla bean, split and the ^4 cup granulated sugar, with the 

seeds removed vanilla seeds crushed into it 

1 quart cream 

Scald half the cream with the sugar and vanilla beans 
crushed together. Also the shell of the bean. Cool, strain, 
add remaining cream and freeze. This will make 3 pints ice 
cream. 

Vanilla Ice Cream II. 

Make a custard of 2 cups milk, 2 eggs and Y^ cup sugar. 
Follow instructions for making custard given on page 147 
After returning to the fire, stir in 1 tablespoon corn starch, 
rubbed smooth with a little cold milk. Let this cook, stir- 
ring constantly until thick and free from the taste of corn 
starch. Flavor with vanilla, add 1 pint cream and freeze. 
This custard recipe is for 1 pint, it makes 3 pints ice cream. 

Frozen Custard with Fruit. 

1 quart milk 1 tablespoon corn starch 

4 eggs, yolks only ^4, cup sugar 

Make according to preceding recipe, add 2 cups straw- 
berries, sprinkled with sugar and mashed, or any fruit desired. 
This makes 2 quarts. 

Banana Ice Cream. 

Make a custard according to preceding recipe. To this add 
2 cups well mashed banana pulp and juice of 1 lemon. The 
banana pulp must be very smooth and free from lumps. This 



184 WHATANDHOW 



is a delicious ice cream. >^ of this quantity will make a little 
over 1 quart when frozen. 

Chocolate Ice Cream. 

To recipe above, add 2 squares Baker's chocolate melted 
over hot water and diluted with enough hot water to make 
it pour easily. Omit fruit, and flavor with about 2 teaspoons 
extract vanilla. Freeze. 

Strawberry Ice Cream. 

may be made by adding strawberries, sugared and crushed, 
to either of the recipes for Vanilla Ice Cream, omitting the 
vanilla. Let berries stand with sugar for an hour before mash- 
ing; they may be strained through cheese cloth if desired, but 
the cream is best with the berries in it if they are well crushed. 

Bisque Ice Cream. 

To one quart custard made by recipe for Vanilla Ice Cream 
II, add 1 cup macaroons pounded fine, and 1 cup stale lady 
finger crumbs. Flavor with 1 teaspoon vanilla. Freeze. Makes 
nearly 2 quarts. 

Pineapple Ice Cream. 

To one quart custard made by recipe for Vanilla Ice Cream 
II, add 1 can Hawaiian pineapple, crushed, or 2 cups shredded 
fresh pineapple. All of these recipes for ice cream may be 
made by Vanilla Ice Cream I if desired, which uses cream 
instead of custard. Omit vanilla flavoring if fruit is added. 

Maple Sugar Ice Cream. 

To 1 quart of custard add 1>£ teaspoons Mapeline and 
freeze. 

Orange Water Ice. 

2 cups water 4 egg whites 

1 cup sugar Grated rind and juice of 2 oranges 

x /i teaspoon granulated gelatin Juice 1 lemon 

Make syrup of sugar and water boiled 20 minutes. Add 
fruit juices, and gelatine dissolved in boiling water. Beat un- 
til cool. Add eggs beaten until dry, turn into freezer and stir 



ICE CREAM AND FROZEN FRUITS lsi 



constantly until stiff. Remove dasher, cover and repack. Al- 
low it to ripen ^ to 4 hours. This quantity makes 3 pints or 
slightly more. 

Lemon Water Ice. 
Tse preceding recipe, omitting orange juice, with juice of 
3 lemons for flavoring. All fruit ices are made by same formula 
as Orange Ice, omitting the orange juice and substituting for it 
any fruit juice. The juice of 1 lemon is necessary for flavor 
except in Raspberry Ice, where 3 lemons are called for to coun- 
teract the insipid sweet of the berry. 

Peach Water Ice. 

Use 6 ripe peaches mashed, juice 1 lemon. 

Pineapple Water Ice. 

Use 1 pint Hawaiian shredded pineapple and juice 1 lemon. 
Mash pineapple through sieve. 

Raspberry Water Ice. 

Use 1 quart raspberries mashed fine, juice 3 lemons. — 
Linda Hull Earned in "Hostess of To-day." 

Cherry Water Ice. 

1 quart cherries, stoned 2 cups water 

2 cups sugar Whites 3 eggs, unbeaten 

Juice 1 lemon 

Mix cherries and sugar, cover and let stand 1 hour, 
crushing with a fork. Rub through wire sieve, extracting 
juice and pulp. Add other ingredients and freeze. 

Grape Water Ice. 

4 cups water 2 cups grape juice 

2 cups sugar Juice 2 oranges 

Juice 1 lemon 

Heat grapes and put through fruit press, if you have it; 
if not, heat grapes and mash; let them drip all night in a jelly 
bag. Or, you may buy a pint bottle of grape juice. Boil sugar 
and water 10 minutes, add fruit juices and freeze. This recipe 
makes nearly 2 quarts. 



186 WHAT AND HOW 



Apricot Ice. 

1 lb. dried apricots soaked over night, boiled soft and rub- 
bed through a sieve. Add 1 cup water, 1}4 cups sugar, juice 
of 1 orange and freeze. This is a delicious ice and well worth 
making. Wash apricots well, use 1 quart of water to soak them 
in and cook in the same water. This makes 2 quarts of ice. 

Frozen Rice Pudding. 

Boil 1 cup rice in milk until thoroughly tender. Add }4 
cup sugar, dash salt, 1 tablespoon of flavoring, and when cool 
1 cup whipped cream. Mould and freeze as mousse. Serve with 
Whipped Cream Sancp —Mrs. Larned. 

Marion Harland's Berry Surprise. 

1 quart strawberries 1 cup water 

l cup sugar Whites .'5 eggs, unbeaten 

Juice 1 lemon 

Mash berries and sugar well together, add other ingred- 
ients and freeze. This quantity will almost fill a 2 quart freezer 
when frozen. It is well named a "surprise," and is a most 
delicious frozen dainty. The berries may be rubbed through 
a sieve which is an improvement. Raspberries or peaches may 
be used instead of strawberries. 

As a substitute for frappe at an afternoon tea, this will 
be found most economical and quite as satisfactory. 

Strawberry Mousse. 

1 quart thin cream 1 tablespoon granulated gelatin 

1 quart strawberries £ tablespoons cold water 

1 cup sugar ',) tablespoons hot water 

Wash and hull berries, cover with the sugar and let 
stand 1 hour. Press through sieve. Add gelatin which has 
been soaked 10 minutes in the cold water and dissolved in the 
hot water. Set in pan of ice water, and stir until it begins 
to thicken, fold in the whip from the cream, mould and pack 
in ice and salt for 4 hours. 

Raspberries may be used instead of strawberries. 



ICE CREAM AND FROZEN FRUITS 18 



Coffee Mousse. 
Use preceding recipe, substituting 1 cup strong coffee in- 
fusion for fruit juice. 

Angel Parfait. 

1 cup sugar Whites ;5 eggs 

J , cup water 1 pint heavy cream 

1 • tablespoon vanilla 

Boil sugar and water until it threads. Pour slowly over 
the beaten whites of eggs, and continue beating until mix- 
ture is cool. Add cream beaten stiff, and vanilla. Mould 
and freeze.— Miss Farmar. 



Golden Mousse. 

8 eggs y 2 tablespoon lemon juice 

:> tablespoons sherry ]/ 2 cup water 

x /l cup sugar 

Beat eggs separately. Make a syrup of sugar and water, 
boiling it without stirring until it will spin a thread from the 
spoon. Add 1 tablespoon of this syrup to the yolks, cook, 
stirring constantly until mixture coats the spoon. Remove 
from fire, add sherry and lemon juice, and beat until it is cold. 
When the egg whites are whipped until stiff, add slowly the 
remainder of the hot syrup, beating constantly. Combine 
mixtures, mould and freeze. Pack according to directions 
given for mixtures frozen without stirring, and let it stand 
4 hours. 

Pineapple Mousse. 

1 can grated Hawaiian pineapple Juice l A lemon 

]4 tablespoon Minute, or granu- 1 cup sugar 

lated gelatin 1 quart cream 

Cover gelatin with cold water and soak 10 minutes. 
Heat the pineapple and drain off the juice of which there 
should be 1 cup. Add gelatin and stir until dissolved in the 
hot syrup. Add sugar and lemon juice and cook until sugar 
is dissolved. Strain and cool. When it begins to thicken, 
fold in the whip from the cream, and freeze as directed in direc- 
tions for Moulding Mousse. 



188 WHATANDHOW 



Frozen Plum Pudding. 

2 cups milk 4 tablespoons candied fruit 

4 eggs 1 tablespoon Sultana raisins 

1 cup sugar 1 tablespoon currants 

1 cup cream, whipped 1 tablespoon seeded raisins 

}4. cup powdered macaroons 2 tablespoons chopped nuts 

Make custard of the milk, egg yolks and sugar, remove 
from fire and cool. Fold in the whipped whites and whipped 
cream. Now add other ingredients; freeze as ice cream. When 
frozen, mould as for mousse and pack in ice and salt for 4 hours. 
If fruit is soaked in sherry for 1 hour before adding, it 
will not freeze through, which is a great advantage. 

Cafe Frappe. 

1 tablespoon pulverized coffee 2 cups thick cream 

2 cups boiling water 1 cup sugar 

Pour water over coffee and strain through jelly bag. 
Add sugar while coffee is hot and stir until sugar dissolves. 
Add cream and freeze. Makes enough for 12 sherbet glasses. 
Serve with a spoonful of sweetened whipped cream on each 
glass. 

Strawberry Frappe 
is made the same as preceding recipe, substituting straw- 
berry juice for coffee. Use 1 quart berries, mash with the sugar, 
and let stand for 1 hour, then rub through a sieve. If there 
are not 3 cups juice, add water to bring it to the required 
quantity. 



189 



CHAPTER XVI 

LUNCHEON AND SUPPER. 

Mince of Beef. 

A good sauce is the only foundation for a perfect mince 
and makes all the difference between this and the usual greasy 
mixture called "hash." Gravy left from the roast is always 
useful and combined with stewed tomatoes without the seeds 
makes a good sauce. In the absence of good gravy, make a 
brown sauce, season well with salt, pepper and lemon juice 
or onion juice, add tomatoes and allow the minced meat to 
cook in it only long enough to become thoroughly hot. A 
White Sauce seasoned with nutmeg, Creole or Mexican 
Sauce, or Brown Sauce with herbs, all make good foundations 
for minced beef, pork or lamb. Serve over squares of toast; 
these minces should not be too dry. Or, 

The meat may be sliced in thin pieces and cooked in the 
sauce, allowing it only time to heat thoroughly. Meat once 
cooked, toughens and loses its taste if stewed too long in sauce. 

Cottage Pie. 

Chop cold meat very fine and combine with ]4 cup sauce 
for each cup meat. Put into a buttered bake dish, cover with 
mashed potato beaten very light with cream, butter, pepper 
and s'alt, and bake in hot oven until you are sure it is well heated 
through and the potatoes are nicely browned. They will 
brown better if brushed over with melted butter. The potato 
should be not less than 2 inches thick over the meat. 

Cream Mince of Veal, I. 

After using a knuckle of veal for soup stock, pass the 
meat twice through the meat chopper. Make 1 cup White 
Sauce, add yolk of 1 egg and pepper and salt. Put the meat 
in buttered ramekins, cover with sauce, sprinkle with but- 
tered crumbs and cook in oven long. enough to heat through 
and brown the crumbs. This quantity of sauce is sufficient for 
2 cups meat. 



190 WHAT AND HOW 



Cream Mince of Veal, II. 

Mix the mince with the sauce made by directions above 
and serve on toast, cooking mince only long enough to heat 
through. A teaspoonful of lemon juice or a few gratings of 
nutmeg will be an improvement. 

Cream Mince of Lamb. 

May be made according to recipe for Cream Mince of 
Veal, II., cutting the meat into neat dice instead of chopping it. 

Cream Mince of Ham. 

Chop ham very fine, mix with White Sauce, and after put- 
ting into ramekins, drop an egg on the top; sprinkle with salt 
and pepper and cook in oven until egg is set. Buttered crumbs 
may be sprinkled on top of the egg before putting into the 
oven, but it is very good without. 

Corned Beef With Egg. 

There is no more delicious mince than that made of boiled 
corned beef. Chop very fine and add an equal quantity of 
cold boiled potatoes chopped into tiny dice. Moisten with 
milk; it should be quite soft and creamy. Put over the fire, 
season with salt and pepper and dredge lightly with flour, 
stirring constantly with a fork. Put into buttered ramekins, 
drop on each one an egg, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and 
bake in oven until egg is set. 

Corned Beef Minced. 

Chop cold boiled corned beef very fine and add an equal 
quantity cold boiled potatoes also chopped. Moisten to a 
thick paste with milk, season with salt and pepper. Melt 
some bacon fat if you have it (if not use butter) in an omelet 
pan and spread the mince evenly in the pan. Cook very slowly 
until a crust forms underneath, double over like an omelet and 
turn out on a hot platter. 

Serving Cold Meat. 

Cut very thin slices from the roast either of beef or lamb, 
trim into uniform size so far as possible and arrange neatly 



LUNCHEON AND SUPPER 191 



on a dish, the slices overlapping. Make this attractive with a 
border of water cress or lettuce hearts, or lettuce leaves cut 
into strips with scissors. Sprinkle this border with French 
dressing if you care for it. Slices of hard boiled eggs, strips 
of sweet red peppers, or tiny red radishes are effective in the 
green border. 

Or, serve the meat with devilled eggs laid around it with 
green sprigs of parsley or cress between them, or with lemon 
cups instead of the eggs. 

Lemon Cups. 
Cut large lemons in half and scoop out all of the pulp; fill 
with cold slaw mixed with mayonnaise. The slaw may be 
made of equal quantities of shredded cabbage and chopped 
apples. Use the lemon juice and pulp for lemonade. Or fill 
the cups with Sauce Tartare or pickles. 

Souffle Cutlets. 

For nine cutlets, take \ l /2 pounds veal cutlet, put twice 
through the meat chopper. Add y$ cup butter, % cup cream, 
20 drops onion juice, 1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley, }4 
teaspoon salt, and dash of pepper. With a pestle pound to 
smooth paste in a chopping bowl. Shape into cutlets }4 inch 
thick and larger than you want them when cooked, as they 
contract in size and puff up, in the cooking. Egg and crumb 
and fry in deep fat. All cutlets and croquettes will fry more 
satisfactorily, if allowed to stand at least one hour, in a cold 
place after egging and crumbing, before frying. 

Minced Ham With Eggs. 

From your delicatessen dealer, purchase sliced minced 
ham in whole slices. If you do not insist upon whole slices, 
you will not have pieces large enough to cut from. With a 
cooky cutter the size of the muffin rings for poaching eggs, 
cut rounds from the slices, and fry these, without burning or 
crisping, in a little dripping. Arrange as many as you need, 
on a platter and keep hot while you poach an equal number 
of eggs in muffin rings as directed in Chapter XVII. 



192 WHAT AND HOW 



Slip an egg on each round of minced ham, and serve plain, 
or with Sauce Hollandaise. Eggs may be fried in the muffin 
rings, instead of poached. Cut the remnants of ham slices 
into crescents, which shape they assume partly as the rounds 
are cut out. Fry separately and use as a garnish. 

Frizzled Beef. 

Select your chipped beef judiciously. There is a righteous 
prejudice against this dish as it is often prepared, but if the 
dried beef be really chipped into feathery flakes, and not cut 
into thick slices, it is acceptable to any one. Melt a table- 
spoon of butter in a saucepan and toss the meat around in it 
with a fork until it is coated with the butter. Sprinkle with 
3 teaspoons flour and continue the tossing, allowing it to brown 
slightly. Now pour over it gradually about 1 cup cream if you 
have it, if not use milk. If this is not enough cream to make 
a smooth creamy sauce, add a ittle more. Season with salt 
and pepper, using the salt cautiously, remembering that the 
meat is already salted. Cook just long enough to lose the 
taste of^the flour, and serve at once. This recipe is for yi 
pound dried beef. Or, put meat through meat chopper and 
proceed as above and serve on toast. 

Fresh Chipped Beef. 

y^ pound beef chipped from the tender side of the round. 
Melt good dripping or butter and toss the meat around in it, 
adding flour as directed above. After the flour is well stirred 
in, add hot water to make a thin gravy. Season with salt, pep- 
per, and kitchen bouquet. Cover closely and simmer for an 
hour. 

A Mould of Calf's Head. 

Before boiling the hea;d, which, of course, has been properly 
prepared by your dealer, wash thoroughly until you are sure 
that the water has penetrated every crevice. Boil in a small 
quantity of waiter, until the meat leaves the bones. Remove 
from the fire and strain. Return the water to the fire and let 
it boil down to }£ the quantity. Discard the fat and the 
brains, use only the tongue and lean meat. Put through the 



LUNCHEON AND SUPPER 1!):) 



meat chopper and season with salt and pepper; add yi table- 
spoon minced parsley, the juice and grated rind of ]4 lemon 
and Ji teaspoon ground cloves. Mix all well together. Heat 
1 cup of the water in which the head was boiled. Melt in it 
] 2 tablespoon butter. and add the seasoned meat; stir 
until heated through. Rinse a mould in cold water, press }4 
the mixture into it; next put against the sides of the mould, 
to form a ring, a row of sliced hard boiled egg, and put a layer 
of same, over the meat. Put in the remainder of the meat, 
pressing it down on the egg and against the sides of the mould. 
When ready to use, turn out on a bed of lettuce, or decorate 
with parsley and slices of lemon cut very thin. A very good 
picnic dish and attractive with its yellow and white rings. 



Jellied Chicken. 

Boil a stewing chicken the day before it is needed, and 
set away the water in which it was boiled to chill. Remove 
every particle of fat; cut the chicken into neat pieces, quite 
small, discarding skin and fat. Take 2 cups of the chicken 
liquor, bring to the boil and strain through cheese cloth. Re- 
turn to the fire, add 1 tablespoon gelatine, previously soaked 
10 minutes in cold water to cover, and season with celery ex- 
tract, salt and pepper. Strain again and cool. Dip a mould 
in cold water, put a little of the jelly in the bottom of it. Now 
put on top of this a layer of chicken % the quantity you have, 
sprinkle with pepper and salt. Pour over this more of the 
jelly, and when it hardens a little, lay the remainder of the 
chicken upon it. Cover with jelly. When the mould is turned 
out, the next day, the jelly should be on the top, the sides and 
the bottom of the mould, encasing the chicken. This may be 
made a decorative dish if a ring of hard boiled and sliced eggs 
be pressed against the sides of mould before the second layer 
of chicken is put in. Olives stoned and cut in half may be 
used at the top of the egg rings. When turned out, garnish 
with green and serve with Mayonnaise. A can of Richardson 
and Robbins' boned chicken will make a good mould of Jellied 
Chicken, if you make a jelly to pour over it. If you have no 



194 WHAT AND HOW 



chicken stock use water in which celery tops have been boiled 
or season with onion, celery seed or celery salt. 

Chicken Mould. 

1 small can Richardson & Rob- 1 tablespoon gelatin 

bins' boned chicken 1 cup White Sauce 

Mayonnaise 

Chop chicken very fine and mix with the White Sauce, 
season with salt and pepper. Dissolve the gelatin (previously 
soaked in cold water to cover for 10 minutes) in 3 tablespoons 
hot water, add and mix well. Press into small moulds and 
put in a cold place for several hours. Turn out each mould 
on a lettuce leaf, and serve with Mayonnaise. Garnish with a 
stuffed olive and strips of pimento. 

Creamed Chicken. 

To one can, (small size), of boned chicken, add a cup of 
White Sauce made with cream if convenient; cook together 
until chicken is well heated through. Beat the yolks of two 
eggs and add to the mixture carefully to avoid curdling. It is 
prudent to allow the chicken to cool slightly before adding the 
egg. Cook 2 minutes, stirring constantly and season well with 
salt and pepper. Add a dash or two of nutmeg. The chicken 
may be cut into small pieces as for salad, or used just as it comes 
apart, when turned out of the can. When ready to serve, add 1 
teaspoon chopped parsley. 

Chicken a la King. 

a 4 lb. chicken y 2 lb. fresh mushrooms 

yi green pepper sweet 2 cups Sauce Supreme 

Salt and pepper 

Prepare chicken as for Chicken Salad, sprinkle with salt 
and pepper. Peel mushrooms, cut in pieces and toss in butter 
over the fire until tender, which will be in a few minutes. Add 
the pepper cut in small pieces. Stir in y 2 cup chicken broth 
and add mixture to chicken. Cook in the sauce, slowly, for 
5 minutes, or until thoroughly hot. Sherry seasoning belongs to 
this dish, in the absence of wine, season to taste with nutmeg 
and lemon juice. Be cautious in the use of nutmeg, too much 



LUNCHEON AND SUPPER 



spoils just enough will season without being perceptible above 
other seasoning. 

Lobster a la Newburg. 

v! ' j cups lobster meat cut into neat pieees. Melt 1 table- 
spoon of butter in a pan, and toss the lobster around in it, 
over the fire, until it begins to brown. Season with salt and 
pepper. Add 1 eup of cream or rich milk mixed with beaten 
yolks of 3 eggs. Heat gradually until it begins to boil; remove 
from fire and add a dash of nutmeg. 

Grab a la Newburg. 

Follow preceding recipe using crab meat instead of lobster. 

Creamed Roe, I. 

When fresh roe is out of season, an excellent article may 
be bought in tin cans at a moderate cost. It makes a most ac- 
ceptable luncheon at any time. 

Mash roe with a fork, removing any pieces of membrane 
which may have been left in the can. Sprinkle with lemon 
juice. Make 1 cup White Sauce, adding yolks of 2 eggs, and 
season well with salt and pepper. Put into well buttered 
ramekins, cover with buttered crumbs and brown in hot oven. 

Creamed Roe, II. 

Make sauce as above, heat roe in it without mashing and 
serve hot on toast. Creamed Roe I. may also be served on 
toast without browning. If fresh roe be used for these recipes, 
it must be boiled before creaming. 

Shrimps. 

May be used in salads, creamed in ramekins or used in 
patties. Creamed shrimps are delicious served on rounds of 
toast. Follow recipe for creamed lobster. 

To Prepare Terrapin. 

Plunge the terrapin into a pot of boiling w r ater and boil 
hard for 5 minutes, closely covered. Take from the water and 



196 WHAT AND HOW 



rub skin from head, tail and feet. Return to pot, and boil 45 
minutes by which time the meat should be tender. Remove 
from water and cool; remove nails from feet, and separate the 
2 shells. Now, with the body exposed, remove liver and gall 
bladder very carefully. Should the latter break, the whole 
terrapin would be unfit for use. Discard gall bladder, intes- 
tines and sand bags; all the rest is good meat. The small 
bones are cooked with the meat on them. Save all liquor 
when removing shell. 

Terrapin. 

After preparing the terrapin meat, make a sauce, as follows: 

l /2 lb. butter, (1 cup) \y£ pints cream 

1 cup flour 7 eggs, hard boiled 

2 tablespoons brandy 6" tablespoons sherry wine 
Salt and pepper Cayenne 

1 quart terrapin meat 

Melt butter in flat sauce pan. Allow it to brown but not 
burn. Add flour gradually, browning it in the butter. Stir 
vigorously with a wire spoon. Add the cream, and if the 
sauce is not brown enough, add a little kitchen bouquet. Rub 
the yolks of eggs through a sieve, or squeeze through the 
vegetable press; rub this to a smooth paste with "Z tablespoons 
of the cream, which should be reserved from the quantity used 
in the sauce. Stir this into the sauce and add the terrapin 
meat, with any liquor which may have been found in the shell, 
season with salt and pepper to taste and a dash of cayenne. 
Let all come to the boil, add the wine and brandy and serve. 
This recipe is for 1 quart terrapin, 4 large, or 10 small ones 
should yield the amount. I have allowed this recipe to remain, 
although it requires brandy and sherry. There can be no 
terrapin without these seasonings, if you have none, do not 
waste your terrapin. 

Salted Almonds. 

Shell and blanch the almonds. To blanch, pour boiling 
water over them and let stand 15 minutes, cover with cold 
water for 10 minutes. They will then pop out of their skins 
with a little squeeze. Dry between two towels. In a frying 
pan, heat salad oil to boiling, fry the almonds in this until 



LUNCHEON AND SUPPER 19' 



brown, remove and drain on paper. Sprinkle with salt, and 
shake them in a paper to remove superfluous salt. Or, after 
removing skins, they may be soaked 4 hours in strong salt 
water, after which, drain, dry and fry in oil as directed above. 
By this latter method, there is no appearance of salt on the 
nuts. 

Salted Peanuts. 

Peanuts may be salted according to directions for almonds. 

Beauregard Cod. 

To 1 pound fresh cod boiled allow 2 cups White Sauce. 
Let the fish be very cold, flake it and add to the sauce. Season 
with salt and pepper, and cook all together 5 minutes. Boil 3 
eggs for 20 minutes and cool in cold water. Remove shells, 
chop whites very fine with a silver knife, and rub the yolks 
through a wire sieve. Pour the hot fish mixture over slices 
of buttered toast, sprinkle with the poAvdered yolks, and ar- 
range the chopped whites in little mounds over the entire sur- 
face. A good way to use remnants of boiled fish, cod, haddock 
or halibut, and allow sauce according to the amount of fish. 

Tongue Relish. 

After using the best portions of a tongue, put the broken 
and unsliceable pieces through the meat chopper. Mix with 
it the yolk of an egg, 1 tablespoon milk, ]4 tablespoon finely 
chopped parsley, pepper and salt. Cook mixture until thor- 
oughly heated and pour on to slices of toast. Cover with 
buttered crumbs and brown in a hot oven. Square crackers 
may be used instead of toast and serve individually. 
• 

Sardine Relish. 

Heat yi cup milk and 1 tablespoon butter. Add 9 or 10 
small sardines freed from skin and bones and cut into small 
pieces. Chop % hard boiled eggs and mix well, seasoning with 
salt and pepper. Serve on toast or crackers. 



198 WHAT AND HOW 



Fish Scallop. 

1 cup cold cooked fish Salt and pepper 

1 cup cold cooked macaroni 1 teaspoon minced parsley 

1 teaspoon onion juice 1 cup White Sauce 

K cup tomatoes, stewed and strained 

Cut macaroni into small bits (here you will find the kitchen 
scissors useful) add tomatoes to the White Sauce and heat to 
boiling point. Add seasoning and fish, turn into buttered 
baking dish, cover with buttered crumbs and bake covered 
)4 hour, uncover and brown. 

Creamed Codfish in Ramekins. 

Wash and drain dry a box of shredded codfish. Mix with 
1 cup White Sauce and put into buttered ramekins. Drop an 
egg on each one, sprinkle with buttered crumbs and cook in 
oven long enough to set the egg. Season the sauce and the 
egg well with salt and pepper. 

Baked Omelet. 

5 eggs 1 pint milk, hot 

1% tablespoons flour Salt and pepper 

Beat eggs together until light, add flour and beat until 
well mixed. Add milk and salt and bake in buttered dish, 
(using a tablespoon of butter); it will bake in about 20 
minutes. 

Kornlet Oysters. 

When green corn is out of season, its place is very ac- 
ceptably filled by kornlet, a most convenient substitute even 
in the summer, as it saves trouble in preparation. Follow 
directions given for all canned vegetables, open the can at 
least one hour before using, and expose to fresh air, stirring 
once or twice. To 1 can kornlet, add 2 tablespoons milk, 2 
eggs beaten light, salt and pepper, and flour for a medium 
batter. It should be just stiff enough to hold its shape when 
fried. Melt a tablespoon of good dripping or failing that, 
butter, in a frying pan, and when very hot drop, by spoonfuls 
to make them about the size of large fried oysters. When 
brown on one side, turn, and brown on the other. They may 
also be fried in deep fat. 



LUNCHEON AND SUPPER 199 



Kornlet Omelet. 

!■ eggs Vi cup milk 

1 cup kornlet ]/i teaspoon salt 

Beat yolks of eggs very light and add kornlet, milk and 
salt. Fold in the whites of eggs, whipped stiff and dry. Melt 
a tablespoon (level) of butter in a omelet pan, and turn in 
the mixture. When brown underneath, put into very hot 
oven to brown on top, and turn upside down on hot platter. 
Pour over it Bechamel Sauce. 

Kornlet Pudding. 

1 can kornlet 1 cup milk 

£ eggs, well beaten A pinch of soda 

1 tablespoon melted butter 1 tablespoon sugar 
Salt and pepper 

Mix all ingredients, turn into buttered pudding dish, 
cover with buttered crumbs, and bake for 20 minutes covered. 
Uncover and brown. 

Croquettes. 

Do not attempt croquettes until you have thoroughly 
studied Chapter I. To egg and crumb these, to fry them 
properly, to be able to serve them hot and free from grease, 
will be impossible to the inexperienced cook, unless she will 
carefully read, and adhere to directions given therein. After 
she has mastered the art of frying properly, she need not fear 
to attempt them. Keep mixture as soft as possible, a solid 
mass is not a good croquette. A mould is necessary if you 
wish the correct shape, but croquettes taste just as good made 
in cylindrical shapes and look as well too. Use a broad knife 
to shape them, and to egg and crumb them, thus you ensure a 
smooth surface. 

Chicken Croquettes, I. 

\]/2 cups minced chicken 1 dash nutmeg 

1 cup White Sauce Salt and pepper 

Yolks 2 eggs 

For making the white sauce, use cream if you have it, if 
not, rich milk. Add chicken, which should be minced very 
fine, to hot sauce, and season well. Add the egg yolks and 



200 WHAT AND HOW 



cook % minutes. Remove from the fire and cool. When stiff 
roll into croquettes, egg and crumb, and set in a cold place 
for 2 hours. Then fry and drain. 

Chicken Croquettes, II. 

This recipe was given me by a woman famous for her 
excellent chicken croquettes. The quantities given will make 
a large number of croquettes, just how many will depend upon 
the size you mould them, of medium size, there will be at least 
4 dozen. 

3 pints minced chicken meat 2 large stewing chickens should 

1 quart fresh bread crumbs % yield 3 pints meat 

2 tablespoons minced parsley j . I £ 1 small onion, minced 
1 pint cream 1 cup butter 

Pepper and salt 2 eggs, whites only, whipped 

2 cups chicken jelly 

Simmer chickens until tender, in a small quantity of 
water. When meat leaves the bones, take from the fire. Pick 
meat carefully, rejecting all gristle and skin. Return bones, 
skin, etc., to kettle and cook in the water in which chicken was 
boiled until it is reduced to about 1 pint. Strain, and set away 
to jelly. Mince the chicken very fine, rub the bread through 
an enamel colander and mix with chicken. Mash the chicken 
liver. Scald the cream and butter together, add pepper and 
salt, the mashed liver, the chicken and crumbs, parsley and 
onion. Now, add the chicken jelly and cook just long enough 
to heat all ingredients, not over 3 minutes. Cool. When cool 
add the whites of eggs, mould, egg and crumb, chill for 2 hours, 
and fry. It is better to prepare the chicken a day before making 
croquettes, in order to secure the jelly. Keep meat, without 
mincing in a covered bowl. 

Meat Croquettes, I. 

2 cups chopped cooked beef }4 teaspoon onion juice 

1 cup Thick White Sauce Salt and pepper 

Yolk 1 egg Dash cayenne 

Add the seasoning to the meat and mix with the sauce. 
Cool, shape into small cylinders, crumb, egg and crumb. Fry 
in deep fat according to directions given for deep fat frying 
and observe rules for testing temperatures. 



LUNCHEON AND SUPPER 201 



Meat Croquettes, II. 

Mix the minced meat with % as much mashed potato, 
season well and proceed as above. 

Veal Croquettes. 

i cups minced veal 1 tablespoon minced parsley 

1 cup Thick White Sauce Yolk 1 egg 

yi teaspoon minced onion Salt and pepper 

Mince the cooked veal very fine, add parsley and onion 
and mix well. Make White Sauce, according to recipe, using 
veal stock instead of milk. If you have no stock, use cream. 
Add slowly to the beaten yolk, return to fire, and stir in the 
veal. Remove from fire, and cool. When stiff, shape, egg and 
crumb, chill for 2 hours and fry. 

Lamb Croquettes. 

Lamb may be substituted for veal in preceding recipe. 

Potato Croquettes. 

2 cups mashed potato 2 eggs, yolks only 

1 tablespoon butter ^2 teaspoon minced parsley 

Salt and pepper X teaspoon onion juice 

Press potato through ricer or the colander, add butter, 
seasonings and egg yolks beaten. Beat hard, until all ingre- 
dients are well mixed. With floured hands, roll into balls, 
then with a knife, on a board shape in cylinders, point at the 
ends. Egg and crumb, chill and fry. 

Bean Croquettes. 

2 cups soup beans 2 tablespoons flour 

1 tablespoon butter 1 egg, beaten light 

Pepper and salt to taste 

Pick over, wash and soak beans over night in enough cold 
water to cover. In the morning, drain, cover with hot water 
and boil until tender. When soft, press through potato ricer, 
or rub through colander; beat to smooth paste with the butter 
and flour. Add egg and seasoning; heat through over hot 
water, spread on a platter and cool. When cold, shape, egg 
and crumb, chill and fry. These are really delicious and will 
prove quite a surprise when well made. 



202 WHAT AND HOW 



Cheese Croquettes. 

1 tup dairy cheese, cut into .'3 tablespoons butter 

tiny dice 4 tablespoons flour 

1 tablespoon Parmesan cheese Y, cup milk 

Yolks of 2 eggs Salt, dash cayenne 

Y teaspoon mustard 

Make a white sauce of butter, flour, milk and seasonings. 
When thick and smooth, add cheese and when it has melted, 
the egg yolks beaten. Spread in shallow pa*n to cool. When 
cold, cut out with a small cutter, crumb, egg and crumb, chill 
and fry. 

Apple Sauce Croquettes. 

C sour apples 3 egg yolks 

Y* cup sugar % tablespoon butter 

Juice and grated rind of Y tablespoon flour 

Y lemon Nutmeg, salt, cinnamon, dash 

of each 

Peel apples and cut into bits. Put into double boiler with- 
out any water with them, and steam until tender; mash, add 
sugar and seasonings and simmer until thick. Rub butter and 
flour together, stir into apples and continue cooking for 3 
minutes, stirring constantly. Now, add enough of the mix- 
ture to the egg yolks, slightlv beaten, to heat them, combine 
mixtures and spread on a platter to cool. When cold, make 
into small croquettes with 2 dessert spoons, or rolling with a 
knife; crumb, egg and crumb, chill and fry. These are rather 
difficult to shape, but when carefully done will repay fully for 
the time spent in acquiring the deftness necessary for success. 

Oyster Croquettes, I. 

1 quart oysters Y teaspoon minced onion 

Y cup cream Salt and pepper 

1 pinch mace 1 tablespoon butter 

Fine bread crumbs 

Wash and drain the oysters, heat to the boiling point, and 
strain. Chop very fine. Heat cream, add seasonings and 
oysters, the butter, and when it is melted, enough bread crumbs 
to thicken so that you can shape them. Cool. Shape, egg and 
crumb, chill for 2 hours. Frv. 



LUNCHEON AND SUPPER 308 



Oyster Croquettes, II. 

1 quail oysters % cup cream 

^ tablespoons flour \A cup oyster liquor 

2 tablespoons butter Yolks 2 eggs 
Salt and pepper A dash of nutmeg 

]/2 teaspoon minced onion 

Drain and wash the oysters. Heat to boiling point, drain 
and reserve l / 2 cup of the liquor. Make a sauce of butter, 
flour, cream and liquor. When sauce is smooth, add to the 
beaten yolks; return to fire, add oysters chopped, and season- 
ings. Remove at once from t,he fire, cool, shape, egg and 
crumb, chill as directed and fry. Croquettes may be moulded 
between 2 tablespoons dipped in water; when using hands dip 
constantly into cold water. 



Pickled Oysters. 

This is a most acceptable dish for a hot night's supper. Of 
course, you must secure salt oysters as all others are out of the 
market between May and September. 

1 quart oysters 2 pieces mace 

1 teaspoon whole allspice 1 teaspoon salt 

l /i cup water yi cup vinegar 

pepper 

Heat and strain through double cheese cloth the liquor 
from the oysters. Put the water and vinegar with the oyster 
liquor, salt, pepper and spices into a kettle and boil 10 min- 
utes. Add the oysters and cook 10 minutes longer. These 
should be prepared the day you wish to use them; keep in a 
cold place until time to serve. 



Potato Balls. 

Make potato croquette mixture. Have ready some 
spinach, boiled, drained very dry and minced. With floured 
hands, pat out a tablespoon of potato mixture, place a tea- 
spoon of the spinach in the centre, and roll into a ball. The 
spinach must be well seasoned with salt, pepper and a little 
lemon juice. Proceed as for croquettes. 



204 WHATANDHOW 



Hominy Croquettes. 

1 cup boiled breakfast hominy 1 egg 

]/2 tablespoon butter, melted Salt and pepper 

Mix hominy and butter and beat in the egg. Be careful 
to brea^k all lumps of hominy. Season. Proceed as for other 
croquettes.. 

Rice Croquettes, I. 

1 cup rice Yolks 4 eggs 

4 cups milk Salt and pepper 

Grated rind yi lemon 

Cook the rice and milk in a double boiler until rice has 
absorbed the milk; it will take about 1 hour. Remove from 
fire, and beat thoroughly; add the yolks well beaten, and the 
seasonings. Shape, egg and crumb, chill and fry. 

Rice Croquettes, II. 

Prepare rice as above, pat out into flat cakes, put a ^ 
teaspoon jelly in the centre, roll into a cylinder or ball, and 
proceed as for croquettes. 

Rissoles, I. 

These little dainties will quite well repay for the small 
amount of trouble involved in their preparation. 

Roll puff paste yi inch thick and cut out in rounds, using 
two sizes of cutters. On the smaller pieces put 2 teaspoons 
prepared mince of meat, wet the edges, using a butter brush, 
cover with larger pieces pinching the edges together firmly. 
Prick in several places and bake in hot oven. 

Chicken, lamb, veal or pork, previously cooked and finely 
minced, may be used as filling for rissoles, combining it with 
Thick White Sauce as for croquettes. Serve with good sauce. 

Rissoles, II. 

Roll out puff paste and cut in rounds with a large cutter. 
Place the prepared mince on one half, wet edge half way 
round, fold over like a turnover, press edges together with a 
fork and fry in deep fat as croquettes. 



LUNCHEON AND SUPPER 205 



Stewed Beef Kidneys. 

Slice 3 kidneys, remove fat and membrane, and soak for 
1 hour in salt and water. This draws out the blood. Cover 
with cold water, put on the fire and heat gradually to the 
boiling point. Pour off this water, and repeat 3 times. Now, 
with a sharp knife, cut into tiny slices or pieces, and add to 
them, 1 teaspoon minced onion and the leaves from 1 sprig 
thyme, powdered. Or, if you have the prepared herbs that 
come in boxes, use a pinch of marjoram and one of thyme. 
Mix these seasonings with the kidneys and set aside while 
you make the sauce. To 1 cup White Sauce, add ^ 
teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, % teaspoon kitchen bouquet 
and a pinch of mace, or y^ teaspoon grated nutmeg. When 
well mixed and seasoned, stir in the beaten yolks of % eggs, 
add the kidneys and cook without boiling for 5 minutes. If 
the sauce boils after the eggs are in it, it will curdle. It will be 
safe to transfer to the double boiler, or put sauce pan with 
kidneys over a kettle of boiling water. >£ teaspoon lemon juice 
is an improvement. 

Fried Kidneys. 

3 beef's kidneys yi cup Brown Sauce 

3 tablespoons butter 2 teaspoons minced parsley 

Pepper and salt 1 teaspoon minced onion 

yi teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 1 tablespoon sherry wine 

Scald kidneys and remove skin. Cut into slices, taking 
out all membrane. Soak for 1 hour in strong salt and water. 
Melt the butter, cook onion, pepper and salt in it 2 minutes, 
browning butter, but do not burn the onion. Drain and wipe 
the slices of kidney dry, dredge with flour, lay them in the hot 
butter and fry gently 3 minutes on each side. Do not cook too 
fast or too long, it renders them tough. Remove from fat with 
a perforated skimmer, and arrange on a platter. Have the 
brown sauce ready, and season with Worcestershire sauce 
and sherry wine, add parsley and pour over the kidneys. The 
butter in which the kidneys were fried may be strained into 
the drippings can, or used to make the brown sauce, in which 
case keep kidneys hot while making the sauce. 



206 WHAT AND HOW 



Lamb's Kidneys, I. 
Scald and skin the kidneys. Split and cut out the mem- 
brane. You will now have 2 pieces of each kidney, about the 
size of large oysters. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, roll in 
flour and fry for about 3 minutes in hot bacon fat. Serve with 
slices of bacon, crisp and dry, and cover with a good brown 
sauce, seasoned well with salt, pepper and Worcestershire sauce 

Lamb's Kidneys, II. 

Lamb's kidneys may be stewed by recipe for beef's kid- 
neys. They are more delicate in flavor. 

Crisp Bacon. 

To fry bacon and have it crisp and light in color, put very 
thin slices on the stove in a cold frying pan. Heat gradually, 
drawing the slices to the edge of the pan when they seem 
crisp. The gradual heating draws out the fat, and leaves the 
bacon a light brown or cream color. Strain the fat remaining in 
the pan into a tin can, keeping it separate from other dripping. 
If after the slices have been removed from the fat, they do not 
seem as crisp as they should, return them to the boiling fat for 
a second or two. 

Veal Kidneys. 

Veal kidneys are hard to obtain, as they are generally de- 
manded with the loin roast. They are the best kidneys for 
frying or stewing, when they can be secured. 

Liver Terrapin. 

1 lb. beef's liver, boiled and Yolks 2 hard boiled eggs 

cold, cut into tiny dice 1 cup Brown Sauce 

Add the diced liver to the Brown Sauce, rub the egg yolks 
through a sieve or rice them, mix to a smooth paste with a 
little of the sauce and stir into the liver mixture. Cook % 
minutes; season with salt, pepper, lemon juice. White Sauce 
may be used, in which case use kitchen bouquet to color it 
a light brown. Use this extract carefully, too much gives a 
disagreeable taste. 



LUNCHEON AND SUPPER >07 



Celery Toast. 

Cut celery into small pieces and stew in small quantity 
of water until soft; drain and press through a sieve. Mix with 
White Sauce, 1 cup to J/ 2 cup celery pulp, season well with 
salt, pepper and paprika, and cook until it begins to boil. Have 
ready, slices of crustless bread, toasted and moistened with 
the water in which celery was cooked. Put a layer of toast 
in a buttered baking dish, cover with the celery mixture, re- 
peat and pour over the second layer the remaining celery 
mixture. Bake, covered, for ten minutes, uncover and brown 
slightly. Serve in dish in which it was baked. 

Tomato Toast. 

Prepare slices of crustless bread as for preceding recipe, 
and use tomato sauce between layers and over the top. Bake, 
covered, for 10 minutes and serve in dish in which it was baked. 

Cottage Cheese. 

2 quarts sour milk 2 cups hot water 

The milk should not only be sour, but it must be thick 
and solid. Empty it into a jelly bag, pour the water over it and 
hang the bag where it may drip for several hours. When the 
whey has all dripped from it, turn into a bowl and beat it 
smooth with a fork. If too dry, add cream. Season with 
salt and pepper. If milk stands long enough to separate from 
the whey, do not add the hot water. 

Cheese Dainties. 

14 lb. cheese 4 tablespoons flour 

2 tablespoons butter Yolk 1 egg 

Dash of salt Dash of paprika 

Cream the cheese with a fork, and when soft and creamy, 
work in the butter, add the egg yolk, slightly beaten and the 
seasonings. Reserving 1 tablespoon of the flour to use in 
rolling out, mix the remainder with the cheese and knead with 
the fingers until well mixed. Roll out, cut into small rounds, 
place each one on a flat round cracker; cut, with a sharp knife, 
strips as thick as match sticks, and lay two of these across each 



208 WHATANDHOW 



round at right angles to each other; press the ends to the 
cracker. Bake in a hot oven until a golden brown color. Use 
cheese that is soft and not too mild. 

Cottage Cheese Pudding. 

2 cups cottage cheese 3 eggs 

% cup sugar yi cup milk 

Salt to taste 

Beat cottage cheese, sugar and eggs well together. Add 
milk and rub through a wire sieve. Put into buttered bake 
dish, sprinkle with cinnamon and bake in a moderate oven 
for 20 minutes or until set. Put the dish in a pan of hot water 
to bake, as for custards. 

Cheese Moulds. 
Press cottage cheese, moistened with cream, into small 
moulds, turn out on lettuce, place a teaspoon of jam, prefer- 
ably currant, raspberry or gooseberry, on top of each, and 
serve with French Dressing. 

Cheese Pudding. 

Cut thin slices of stale bread and cover the bottom of a 
buttered bake dish with them. Put on this a layer of thin 
slices cheese sprinkled with salt and pepper. Repeat. Pour 
over it 3 cups of milk and 4 eggs, well beaten, mixed together 
and bake in slow oven until custard sets, about 20 minutes. 

Cheese Fondu. 

1 cup bread crumbs 2 cups milk 

2 cups cheese, grated 2 eggs 

1 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce }4 teaspoon salt, pepper 

Stir y& teaspoon of soda into the milk to keep it from 
curdling and soak the crumbs in milk for }4 hour. Beat eggs 
separately, adding to the whites % teaspoon cream of tartar 
Add yolks, cheese and seasonings; last fold in the whites of 
eggs whipped stiff. Bake in a well buttered pudding dish in 
rather quick oven until delicately browned. Remember that 
being a souffle, this will fall if allowed to stand after baking, 
through the cream of tartar will help, it to stand. 



LUNCHEON AND SUPPER 209 



Cheese Toast. 

i cups cheese grated or chipped 1 cup stewed tomatoes 

1 j teaspoon salt ! 4 teaspoon paprika 

1 teaspoon onion, grated 1 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce 

1 tablespoon butter substitute 3 tablespoons chopped peppers 

1 cup bread crumbs 

Cook peppers in butter until soft, add tomatoes and trans- 
fer to double boiler, add cheese, crumbs and seasonings, beat 
until smooth and thick and serve on bread cut thin and toasted. 



Cheese Souffle. 

1 tablespoon butter ]/i cup milk 

IK tablespoons flour 3 eggs 

X cup cheese, grated Salt and pepper 

Make a sauce of the butter, flour and milk, according to 
directions for White Sauce, add seasoning. Beat eggs separ- 
ately. Remove sauce from fire, stir in the cheese and when 
slightly cooled, add the yolks of the eggs. When mixture is 
quite cool, fold in the whites of eggs, whipped until dry and 
stiff. Pour into buttered bake dish and bake 20 minutes in a 
slow oven. Serve at once, it will fall if allowed to stand. The 
dish should not be too full, as souffles increase very much while 
baking. 

Cheese Cream. 

Make a thick white sauce as for croquettes. Stir into this, 
when cool, enough grated cheese to flavor it. Add a dash or 
two of paprika, and salt to taste. The quantity of cheese will 
depend upon the quality of the cheese, but there should be 
enough to give a very decided taste of cheese to the sauce. 
This cream may be used in Queen Fritters, or served hot over 
toast. 

FRITTERS AND PANCAKES. 

Before attempting fritters, master the art of deep fat fry- 
ing as described in Chapter I. No grease must mar the fritter, 
the fruit must be thoroughly cooked and the batter of the 
right consistency. With these requisites, and the rules of 
testing fat for frying, the novice may succeed perfectly in 



210 WHATANDHOW 



making these delicacies so that they shall be wholesome and 
digestible. 

Serve fritters always, upon either a folded napkin, or a 
tissue paper mat, fringed at the ends. The latter is preferable, 
as it does not add to the laundry work. 

Batter for Fruit Fritters. 

1 cup flour Pinch of salt 

1 teaspoon baking powder % cup milk 

2 tablespoons powdered sugar 1 egg 

Mix and sift dry ingredients, add milk gradually and egg 
well beaten. 

Apple Fritters, I. 

Peel and cut 2 apples into tiny slices, stir into the batter 
and drop by spoonfuls into hot fat and fry. Remove with a 
skimmer, drain on absorbent paper, and serve sprinkled with 
powdered sugar. 

Apple Fritters, II. 

Cut apples into rings (after peeling and coring), the rings 
to be Yi inch thick and cut cross wise of the apple. Dip each 
slice into the batter until well coated with it, and drop into 
hot fat to fry. A skewer is useful in transferring the slices 
from batter to fat and out again to the paper. 

Banana Fritters. 

Remove skins, cut in half lengthwise, and each half cross- 
wise into 2 pieces. Sprinkle with powdered sugar, and lemon 
juice; cover and set aside K" hour. Dip into batter, and fry 
as directed. 

Batter a la Creole. 

The following recipe taken from the "Picayune Cook 
Book" is worthy of a trial. It is more elaborate but quite as 
easy to use: 

1 cup flour 2 tablespoons brandy, or sherry, 

2 eggs or lemon juice 

Cold water 1 tablespoon butter, melted 

yi teaspoon salt 



LUNCHEON AND SUPPER 211 



Beat the yolks of eggs well and add the flour, beating very 
light; add the melted butter and the brandy, amd thin with 
cold water to the consistency of a thick starch. Add the whites 
of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and dip the fruit into this, 
immersing well. The batter must be thick enough to coat the 
fruit, but not so thick as to make it tough. Fry as directed in 
preceding recipes. 

Peaches. 

May be treated as the apples, sliced and mixed with the 
batter, or cut in half, covered with batter and fried in deep fat. 

Queen Fritters. 

2 tablespoons butter % cup flour, sifted 

yi cup boiling water 2 eggs 

Marmalade 

Put butter in small saucepan and add water. As soon as 
it reaches boiling point, add flour and stir until mixture leaves 
side of the pan, cleaving to the spoon. Remove from fire and 
add eggs, unbeaten, one at a time, beating mixture thoroughly 
after adding each egg. Drop by spoonfuls into deep fat and 
fry until well puffed up and brown. Drain; make an opening 
and fill with marmalade or preserve. Sprinkle with powdered 
sugar. These are attractive made quite small and may be 
filled with salad or cheese cream. See page 209. 

Clam Fritters. 

1 pint clams 1>£ cups flour 

i eggs 1 teaspoon baking powder 

]A, cup milk Salt and pepper 

Drain clams, wash, and put through meat chopper, coarse 
cutter. Beat eggs until light, add milk, flour sifted with baking 
powder, clams and seasoning. Drop by spoonfuls into hot fat 
and fry. Drain on paper and serve on a paper mat. All fritters 
must have either a napkin or paper mat under them to drain 
off the fat. 

Clam fritters may be cooked on a griddle as cakes, making 
them rather small. They are more delicate than when fried. 



212 WHATANDHOW 



Kornlet Fritters. 

1 can kornlet. Add 1 cup milk, 1 egg, beaten, 2 table- 
spoons melted butter, salt to taste, and enough flour for thin 
batter. Fry as griddle cakes. 

Pancakes. 

3 cups flour 4 eggs 

1 cup milk 1 tablespoon sugar 

2 tablespoons melted butter 

Beat eggs until very light in cake mixer if you have one, 
add milk. Sift the flour and mix with the eggs and milk. If 
in cake mixer, put flour into milk, if beating by hand, add milk 
to flour. Beat hard for 3 minutes and add butter. Put 2 large 
spoonfuls into a frying pan, brown on one side, turn and brown 
on the other. Put on a dish, sprinkle with sugar and keep hot 
while baking the others. If a griddle is used, two may be baked 
at one time. Pile on a plate, with sugar between. This quan- 
tity makes 12 pancakes. 

Jelly Pancakes. 

Make a batter of 5 eggs, 2 tablespoons melted butter, 3 
cups milk, and 4 cups flour, sifted with 2 teaspoons baking 
powder. Fry as directed in preceding recipe, spread with 
jelly, roll up, and sprinkle with sugar. 

Club Sandwich, I. 

Toast 3 slices bread ^ m ch thick and 5 inches square. 
Remove crust before toasting. Spread 1 slice with Mayonnaise 
and minced parsley mixed thoroughly together, and seasoned 
well with salt and pepper, and 2 drops onion juice to each 
tablespoon of Mayonnaise. Lay over this, cold boiled chicken 
cut in thin slices and cover with 2 slices of well crisped 
bacon. Put over this a layer of shredded lettuce over which 
spread Sauce Tartare, made by adding to some of the Mayon- 
naise, pickles chopped very fine. Butter the second slice of 
toast and press it firmly down on the sandwich. Now put 
on a layer of shredded lettuce, cover with Mayonnaise and a 
layer of sliced hard boiled eggs, over which arrange thin slices 



LUNCHEON AND SUPPER 213 



of pimolas or stuffed olives. On top of this put the third sliee 
of toast spread with Mayonnaise, and press it firmly down. 
With a sharp knife cut across the sandwich diagonally 
which will make two triangles, put these together to make 
the square again. Garnish with sprigs of parsley. 

Club Sandwich, II. 

For this, you will need 2 slices of toast, made according 
to recipe above. Butter one of these, and cover with shredded 
lettuce. Spread over this some Mayonnaise and put on a 
layer of chicken in small pieces; sprinkle with salt and pepper. 
Next, put 2 slices of well crisped bacon and a lettuce leaf spread 
with Mayonnaise. Sprinkle this with hard boiled egg chopped 
very small, and cover with sliced pimolas. Butter the second 
piece of toast and press well down on top the sandwich. Cut 
as directed in preceding recipe. 

Manhattan Club Sandwich. 

2 slices of toast made as directed for Club Sandwich I. 
Butter one of these, put a layer of chicken and 2 slices of 
crisped bacon and cover with a lettuce leaf. Spread this with 
Mayonnaise, lay on it a slice of tomato, sprinkle with salt and 
pepper and cover with sliced olives or pimolas. Spread the 
second piece of toast with the Mayonnaise and press it well 
down upon the sandwich. Cut into triangles as directed. 

Sweetbreads. 

A sweetbread is in two parts, connected by tubing and 
membranes. The round compact part is the heart sweetbread, 
the other and least desirable, is the throat sweetbread. Miss 
Farmar utters a note of warning against the possibility of ob- 
taining two throat sweetbreads from the market, they are dis- 
connected before being offered for sale, and the buyer should 
have, in a pair, one of each. 

Sweetbreads should be parboiled as soon as received from 
the market. Wash thoroughly, boil slowly for 20 minutes, 
drain and plunge into very cold water. This blanches and 



214 WHATANDHOW 



solidifies them. When cold, put near ice or in a cold place 
until needed for cooking. They need this preliminary par- 
boiling before using in the following recipes. 

Baked Sweetbreads. 

Parboil 2 pairs of sweetbreads, according to directions 
given above. Cut fat salt pork into narrow strips, and lard 
each sweetbread with 4 strips. To do this, take a sharp pointed 
knife and make a hole through the sweetbread, push one of 
the strips through this hole, allowing it to project yi inch 
each side. Dissolve ]/ 2 teaspoon beef extract in 1 cup hot water, 
or use 1 cup of soup stock, lay the sweetbreads in a baking 
pan just large enough to hold them, pour the stock over them 
and bake, covered, for 20 minutes. Uncover, brush over with 
melted butter, and allow them to brown, cooking not more 
than 5 minutes more. Remove to a hot platter, sprinkle with 
salt and pepper, and pour around them the sauce, which should 
be thickened slightly, and well seasoned with salt, pepper and 
kitchen bouquet. 

Creamed Sweetbreads. 

Parboil and blanch 1 pair sweetbreads. Cut into neat 
pieces and cook for o minutes in a sauce made as follows: Melt 
in a saucepan 1 tablespoon butter, rub into it \yi tablespoons 
flour and add 1 cup of cream. When thick and smooth, add 
the sweetbreads, salt and pepper to taste. Cook 5 minutes 
and serve on toast, or in paper boxes. Sherry may be used as 
a flavoring if desired. 

Sweetbread Patties. 

Make pastry cups or purchase the patties if more con- 
venient. Use equal quantities of cold boiled chicken and 
sweetbreads cut into blocks. Follow directions in preceding 
recipe. The pastry cups are made by baking puff paste over 
inverted muffin tins. 

Sweetbread Cutlets. 

Parboil and blanch 1 pair of sweetbreads; cut into % inch 
slices and season with salt and pepper. Crumb, egg and crumb 



■\ 



LUNCHEON AND SUPPER Jl> 



and brown in a little butter. Serve with Mushroom, Bechamel, 
or Brown Sauce. If the latter be used, add }4 cup stewed and 
strained tomato to the sauce. 

Cheese Balls. 

IK cups grated cheese, sharp 1 tablespoon flour 

American 1 teaspoon salt 

Dash of cayenne Whites 3 eggs, whipped dry 

Mix all ingredients, shape into balls, roll in fine bread 
crumb and fry as croquettes. A fine accompaniment to salads 




216 WHAT AND HOW 



CHAPTER XVII 



EGGS. 

An egg contains four of the five food principles, the one 
lacking being carbohydrates, or the starch and sugar. Thus 
it becomes a perfect meal eaten with bread, potatoes or cereals. 
To select eggs, choose those with shells slightly rough whose 
contents will not shake. An infallible test is to drop them into 
water. A fresh egg will sink at once, an egg not strictly fresh, 
though not necessarily unfit for use, will assume an upright posi- 
tion. The small air cell in the larger end of the egg increases, 
in size as the egg grows older, and this causes the egg to float 
with the small end down. This test should be applied in case 
of doubt, especially if the egg is to be boiled. 

Boiled Eggs. 

Drop egg into boiling water, and cover until the water 
boils again, cook three minutes for soft boiled, four minutes 
for medium, and twenty minutes for hard boiled. At no time 
should the water boil hard. 



Coddled Eggs. 

Put two eggs into a hot bowl, cover with boiling water, 
cover closely for five or six minutes off the fire. Prepared 
in this way the whites and yolks are of a creamy consistency, 
and more easily digested. The best way to prepare an egg 
for an invalid or baby. 

Poached Egg. 

Have a sauce pan with boiling water. Butter muffin 
rings and put into water. Carefully break an egg into each 
muffin ring. The water should cover the egg. When the 
egg is firm, slip the ring off, take up the egg with a skimmer 
and lay on a circular piece of buttered toast, sprinkle with salt 
and pepper. 



EGGS 811 



Fried Eggs with Bacon. 
Lay 6 thin slices bacon in a cold frying pan, beat grad- 
ually and cook slowly, until the bacon is crisp but not brown- 
ed too much. Take 4 muffin rings, and grease well with the 
bacon fat, and heat very hot in the pan. If not sufficient fat 
in the pan, add a little more. Drop an egg into each muffin 
ring, and fry. Turn, if desired, after removing the ring. Serve 
on the dish with bacon. 

Shirred Eggs. 

Butter ramekins and drop an egg into each one. Season 
with salt and pepper. Bake in a moderate oven until the white 
is firm. A pleasant change from the ordinary shirred egg 
may be had by sprinkling egg with buttered crumbs and a 
little grated cheese. 

Scrambled Eggs. 

Beat eggs just long enough to break yolks; season with 
salt and pepper. Melt a tablespoon of bacon dripping in an 
omelet pan, and stir eggs in this with a fork until cooked. 
If allowed to cook too long they will be tough; the last min- 
ute of stirring may be done off the fire, as the heat of the pan 
will be sufficient. Scrambled eggs may be served with toast, 
and the toast may be buttered, or spread with Anchovy paste. 
Avoid monotony by using variety. 

Egg in a Nest. 

Butter a ramekin. Beat the white of an egg with a dash 
of salt until stiff and dry. Pile lightly in the ramekin, make 
a slight depression in the middle and drop into it the unbeaten 
yolk. Sprinkle yolk with salt and pepper, and bake in oven 
until the meringue is a golden brown. This may be made 
on a buttered saucer, and slipped off when cooked, to a round 
of buttered toast, and may also be served with Tomato Sauce. 

Eggs a la Martin. 

Make thick cream sauce, with \}4 tablespoons butter, \]4 
tablespoons flour, 1 cup cream. Butter ramekins and put into 



218 WHAT AND HOW 



each one 2 tablespoons sauce. Drop on this 2 eggs, cover 
thickly with grated cheese, cover with sauce, and bake in a 
hot oven 10 minutes or until the egg is well set. Use milk 
if you have not cream. 

Eggs a la Newburg. 

Make a sauce of 1 tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon corn- 
starch, and 1 cup rich milk. (Follow directions for making 
White Sauce.) Add to this 6 hard boiled eggs, cut into neat 
pieces, and let these cook until hot through. Stir in 2 well 
beaten eggs, % teaspoon salt, a dash of red pepper, and serve 
on toast or crackers. 

Holland Eggs 

are made according to directions for eggs a la Martin, using 
Mushroom Sauce instead of Cream Sauce, and omitting cheese. 
Use small button mushrooms in the sauce, or small pieces of 
mushrooms. 

Luncheon Eggs. 

Melt 1 tablespoon butter and let it brown, add 1 table- 
spoon flour, and stir until smooth. Add 1 cup tomatoes stew- 
ed, % cup canned mushrooms, sliced, ^ cup minced ham or 
chicken. Season with onion juice, paprika and kitchen bou- 
quet. Simmer five or ten minutes, then stir in 4 beaten eggs. 
Stir carefully until eggs are set, and serve on rounds of toast. 
This can be made in chafing dish. 

Mince of Ham with Eggs. 

Brown 1 tablespoon butter in sauce pan, add 1 tablespoon 
flour, when Smooth pour on 1 cup hot water and cook until 
you have a thick sauce; color with kitchen bouquet. Season 
with 1 teaspoon tomato catsup, 1 teaspoon onion juice, salt 
and pepper. Add to this 1 cup of minced ham, toss and stir 
until smoking hot. Pour over slices of toast, on a hot plat- 
ter. Put a poached egg on each slice of toast and serve. Kid- 
neys are delicious served in this way. 



EGGS 219 



Club Eggs. 

(> bard boiled eggs yi teaspoon kitchen bouquel 

1 cup White Sauce 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 

1 cup tomatoes, stewed 1 tablespoon chopped peppers 

If tomatoes are "left overs" they will probably be thick- 
ened and seasoned. If not, thicken with butter and flour 
rubbed together, and rub through a wire sieve. They should 
be of the same consistency as the white sauce. Cook the pep- 
pers with the white sauce, adding them to the butter while 
it is melting, but do not let them brown. When the sauce 
is made, add tomato and seasoning. Chop eggs very fine, using 
a silver knife. Stir into the sauce and serve over toast. The 
peppers may be omitted without spoiling the dish. Season 
with salt and pepper to taste. 

Spanish Eggs. 

1 cup stewed tomatoes, well 1 tablespoon butter 

seasoned 3 eggs 

1 teaspoon onion, chopped fine 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 

Brown onion in butter, add tomatoes and Worcestershire 
sauce. When very hot, break in the eggs whole on top of 
tomatoes, and when the whites are set, beat all together very 
lightly. Serve on toast. 

Tomato Eggs. 

Four hard boiled eggs. Cut in half lengthwise, and re- 
move yolks. Work yolks smooth with silver fork, mix with 
1 teaspoon Anchovy paste, refill eggs. Place cut side down 
on buttered pudding dish, and cover completely with Tomato 
Sauce. Sprinkle over top with buttered bread crumbs, and 
cook in hot oven 10 minutes. Serve hot. 

Dropped Egg— White Sauce. 

Heat small omelet pan, place on asbestos mat, set on 
back of stove, or over simmerer of a gas stove, turned low. 
Butter the bottom and sides, and turn in $4 of a cup of milk. 
When milk is very hot, slip in 1 egg opened on a saucer, and 
cover. When cooked on one side turn over, cover and cook 
until the other side is done. Remove egg with a skimmer to 



220 WHAT AND HOW 



hot plate; thicken milk with Y /2 level tablespoon each of butter 
and flour, rubbed together. Season with salt and pour over 
the egg. This is an individual serve suitable for an invalid's 
tray. 

Baked Souffle of Eggs. 

Scald 1 cup milk; beat yolks of 6 eggs until light and 
creamy, and whites until stiff and dry. Season the milk with 
Vz teaspoon salt, a little pepper, and 1 tablespoon butter, and 
add gradually to the yolks, fold in the whites. Pour into a 
buttered baking pan and cook in a moderate oven ten minutes 
or until it is a delicate brown. Serve immediately in the dish 
in which it was baked. If you open the oven door to note pro- 
gress, be very careful not to jar the stove when closing it, and 
do not move the dish until it is ready to come from the oven, 
or the souffle will fall and be spoiled. 

Eggs en Surprise. 
Bake potatoes of uniform size and well shaped. When 
done, cut a slice from the side and remove part of the potato; 
drop a raw egg into the cavity and cover with a puree of minced 
ham, which is made by mixing ham minced very fine, with 
some good sauce, preferably Bechamel. Return to the oven 
until the egg is well set, and serve with a spoonful of Bechamel 
sauce on top of the ham. 

Daffodils. 

Chop the whites of 6 hard boiled eggs fine. Have ready 
1 cup of White Sauce, seasoned with pepper, salt and onion 
juice. Mix the whites with this, and keep hot over boiling 
water. Have ready eight rounds of toast, buttered and slightly 
moistened with gravy, chicken, veal or turkey. Arrange on 
a hot platter and cover each round with the white mixture, 
flattening it on top. Rub the yolks through a sieve, reducing 
them to a yellow powder, season with salt and pepper, and 
put a spoonful in the centre of each white round. — Marion 
Harland. 



EGGS 281 



Baked Eggs. 

('lit a slice from stem end of tomato; with a spoon re- 
move most of the pulp, slip in an egg, sprinkle with salt and 
pepper, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake until egg is set. 

To butter the crumbs, melt 1 tablespoon butter and stir 
the crumbs in until well coated with the butter. Tomato 
scooped from the inside can be used for soup or tomato sauce. 

Omelets. 

There are two ways of making omelets, the French and 
American; the choice is between a spongy consistency and 
a more solid one. For a sweet omelet, the American way is 
employed, while for the numerous filled omelets, the French 
is preferred. To make a French omelet, break the eggs into 
a bowl and with a fork beat only long enough to break the 
yolks and mix them with the whites. Water or cream may 
be added in the proportion of ^ tablespoon to each egg. Sea- 
son with salt and pepper. Use a pan which comes for the 
purpose in sizes known as "one egg omelet pan" or "two egg," 
and so on to a "six egg" pan. It is wise to have at least four 
of these pans; they are inexpensive and useful in many ways. 
Do not attempt to make a small omelet in a large pan, the egg 
should be at least 1 inch deep. Put into the pan, which should 
be hot, about 1 teaspoon of butter and melt it before turning in 
the egg. As the omelet begins to set, with a spatula or broad 
bladed knife, lift the edge and tilt the pan so that the uncooked 
egg on top will run underneath and repeat this until the whole 
is of a creamy consistency. Place the filling on one side, turn 
the other side over on it and turn out on a hot platter. 

Mushroom Omelet. 

One cup mushrooms, broken in small pieces, put into a 
saucepan with }4 tablespoon butter. Cover closely and sim- 
mer gently until mushrooms are tender. (Test with a wooden 
toothpick.) Add 1 cup of cream or rich milk, thicken with yi 
tablespoon butter and Yi tablespoon flour rubbed together. 
Add 1 teaspoon lemon juice, salt and pepper, and proceed 
according to directions given above, using 4 eggs. This omelet 
can be made with oysters instead of mushrooms. 



222 WHATANDHOW 



Spanish Omelet. 

Spanish omelet can be made according to directions for 
tomato omelet, using 

Spanish Sauce. 

^3 cup stewed and strained tomatoes, yi of an onion, 
chopped, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 pimento 
cut small, salt and pepper. Cook the onion in the butter, until 
a golden brown, add flour, tomatoes, and 1 cup water. Cook 
ten minutes, and strain. Season with salt and pepper. 

Bread Omelet. 

4 eggs % cup stale bread crumbs 

]4. cup milk ]/i teaspoon salt 

Soak crumbs in milk 15 minutes; beat eggs separately. 
To the yolks, add crumbs and seasoning, and fold in the whites. 
Grease a small omelet pan, and pour in the mixture. Cook until 
brown underneath, slip under the flame of the gas oven for a 
minute or so to brown on top, or put in the hottest part of 
your coal range oven. The object is to brown quickly without 
cooking long enough to toughen the omelet. Turn out on a hot 
platter, and cover with 

Bechamel Sauce. 

Scald \ l /2 cups milk with 1 slice onion, bit of bay leaf, 
sprig of parsley, and 3 peppercorns. Melt 1 tablespoon butter 
in a sauce pan. Stir in 1 tablespoon flour, add the milk strain- 
ed, and stir until a smooth sauce. Beat yolk of 1 egg, add hot 
sauce gradually, season with pepper and salt. 

Omelet with Tomato Sauce. 

Break 4 eggs into a bowl and beat only long enough to 
break the yolks. Have ready and hot 1 cup Tomato Sauce, 
melt 1 teaspoon butter in an omelet pan, and turn in the eggs. 
Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. As it sets around the 
edges, lift with a broad bladed knife, and allow the uncooked 
part on top to run underneath. When of a creamy consistency, 



E G G S 228 



put ^'tablespoons of sauce on one half, and turn the other half 
over it. Turn out on a hot dish, and pour remainder of sauce 
around it. 

Omelet— Minced Ham. 

Make a French omelet, when ready to double over sprinkle 
with minced ham and fold. 

Omelet with Fried Onion. 

Melt 1 tablespoon bacon dripping or butter, slice 2 large 
or 3 smaller onions, toss in the hot fat until tender, but do 
not allow them to brown too much. Remove from the pan 
and keep warm while you make a French omelet, in the pan 
where you have just fried the onion. Put part of the fried 
onion in the omelet when you fold it, and lay the rest on the 
dish with it. 

Omelet with Bacon. 

Fry b' pieces of bacon, or as many as you wish, drain off 
some of the fat, and make a French omelet in the same pan. 
Serve on platter with bacon arranged at one side. 

Parsley Omelet. 

To a 4 egg omelet, allow 2 teaspoons minced parsley, 
and stir in before cooking the omelet. 

Kidney Omelet. 

Scald and skin 4 lamb's kidneys; put on fire in cold water 
to cover. When water reaches boiling point, pour off and 
cover again with cold water; bring to boiling point again and 
repeat twice. By this time the kidneys will be cooked through. 
Cut into tiny thin slices and mix with Brown Sauce, well sea- 
soned. Make an omelet, and when it is done put a spoonful of 
the kidney mixture in the middle of it, fold and serve on hot 
platter with the remainder of the kidney poured around it. 
This is ah excellent way to use kidney, stewed or devilled, left 
over from another meal. 



224 WHAT AND HOW 



Omelet au Fines Herbes. 

Parsley and onion minced; thyme and sweet marjoram 
powdered; mix all together and sprinkle in the omelet before 
cooking. 

Oyster Omelet. 

1 cup White Sauce x /i teaspoon kitchen bouquet 

1 pint oysters Salt and pepper 

6 eggs 

Wash and drain the oysters. Heat over the fire until 
they ruffle, drain. Use this liquor in the white sauce, adding 
enough milk to make 1 cup. Season the sauce, drop in the 
oysters to heat thoroughly. Make a French omelet, fold a 
few of the oysters inside and pour the rest around it. 

AMERICAN OMELETS. 

Or omelets made by beating the eggs separately, are more 
difficult to make successfully than the French omelets, but 
practice makes perfect, and one may achieve anything if only 
she tries often enough. Beat yolks until light, whip whites 
stiff and dry, and mix carefully together without further beat- 
ing; season with salt and pepper. Melt 2 teaspoons butter in 
an omelet pain of suitable size for the number of eggs used, 
pour in the omelet and cook over a moderately hot fire until a 
crust forms underneath and the omelet seems cooked about 
half way through. Now put into the hottest part of the oven, 
or in a gas stove, under the oven flame, just long enough to 
set the egg on the top, remove from the fire, double over, and 
serve at once, as it falls if allowed to stand. It may be turned 
out without folding if desired. Vary by using minced parsley, 
the herb mixture, or if a sweet omelet is desired, spread with 
marmalade or jelly before folding. Do not cook too long, as 
long cooking toughens the omelet. 



225 



CHAPTER XVIII 



CEREALS. 



In the cooking of cereals, follow directions upon each 
package as to proper proportions of water and cereal, but even 
those varieties that are said to require but a few minutes boil- 
ing are rendered more wholesome and palatable by longer 
cooking. Marion Harland says, oatmeal cooked four hours is 
good, eight hours are better, twenty-four hours are "best.'* 
Soaking is indispensible, and she advises putting oatmeal on 
the stove over night, where it will keep warm, adding boiling 
water and salt in the morning and cooking in a double boiler 
as long as you can. Since fireless cookers have become known 
there is no place or plan for cooking cereals to equal them. 
Put the cereal, with its proper quantity of water as given on 
the box, and salt to taste, on the fire where it may boil for 10 
minutes; transfer without delay to the fireless cooker and in 
the morning it will be found ready for use. Before putting 
into the cooker, lift the lid, stir contents thoroughly, replace 
lid, and when you are sure that it is boiling again, remove to 
the cooker. If kettle does not fill the space in the cooker 
crumple up newspaper to fill the space between kettle and lid 
of cooker, there must be no air space either on top or at sides 
of kettle. If the oatmeal is not hot enough to serve, put kettle 
into hot water on the stove. I wish it were in my power to 
convince mothers that children can be taught to eat their 
cereal without sugar. If a child never acquires the taste, there 
is no trouble in training him to eat his bread and milk or por- 
ridge without it, and while a small amount of sugar may be 
useful in food, it creates acidity when given in such quan- 
tities as are required to sweeten cereals. Also I would like 
here, to enter a protest against the substitution of cereals for 
the bowl of bread and milk, especially for the evening meal. 
Some one has called it "a hot poultice over the coating of the 
stomach," and I feel quite well convinced that this is a per- 
fectly good description of the effect of too much cereals for 
children. 



226 WHAT AND HOW 



Many cereals that come to us in packages partly cooked, 
and all of those prepared for use without further cooking, are 
demineralized in the process and have lost their chief nutriiive 
values. Their food value is limited to the milk or cream used 
with them. The cereals prepared by the Great Valley Mills at 
Paoli, Pa., contain all the elements which an all-wise Providence 
put into them for the growth and health of the body — they 
are simply crushed or ground between two mill stones in the 
very old fashioned way that has made the water ground meal of 
Virginia famous. These cereals and flours are not for sale in 
the stores, but come direct to the consumer by parcel post. 
A postal card mailed to address given above will bring full 
information. 

Oatmeal builds up muscle, bone and brain, is heating to 
the blood and therefore is a winter cereal. Wheat prepara- 
tions are best adapted for summer use, while hominy and corn 
meal are gently laxative and therefore useful for an occasional 
change either in summer or winter. Rice is nourishing and 
easily digested and becomes a perfect food when cooked in 
milk, easily accomplished in a double boiler. 

Hominy Grits. 

In the South, it is always ''grits," North it is known as 
breakfast hominy. The directions upon the box may be fol- 
lowed as given. 

For a luncheon dish, this is improved by pouring off the 
water when it is nearly done, filling up with milk instead, and 
cooking until milk is absorbed. When cold, it is a most accept- 
able addition to a menu. Slice, dip in corn meal and fry in very 
hot Crisco or bacon fat. Grease a baking powder can and pack 
the hominy into it while hot. When turned out you can cut 
into neat round slices. 

Brewis. 

An old fashioned dish, good for the children's supper. Dry 
slices of stale bread in the oven and put through the meat 
chopper, using the coarse cutter. To 1 cup of these crumbs, 



CEREALS %%1 



allow 2 cups scalded milk, seasoned with salt. Pour over the 
crumbs, add a little butter and let it stand, covered closely, 
for a few moments before serving. 

Macaroni. 

The elbow macaroni is the most convenient to use, as it 
is already in pieces which are practically uniform in size. Wash 
and boil in salted water yi hour. Drain in colander; 
rinse with cold water; this washes the paste from the outside 
of the pieces and prevents them from sticking together. 

Spaghetti is much smaller than macaroni, but requires the 
same treatment. These directions will not be repeated in the 
recipes to follow. 

Boiled Macaroni. 

Serve macaroni, boiled according to directions, with but- 
ter, pepper and salt to season; add a little cream as you reheat 
it, if desired. Or, pour over it, 1 cup of White Sauce. 

Macaroni, With Cheese. 

Sprinkle grated cheese over boiled macaroni after pouring 
the white sauce over it. 

Macaroni Baked. 

Butter a pudding dish; fill ^ full with boiled macaroni, 
pour over it 1 cup White Sauce, cover with buttered crumbs 
and brown in oven. 



Baked Macaroni With Cheese. 

Butter a pudding dish; put in a layer of boiled macaroni, 
sprinkle with grated cheese and add a dash of paprika. Repeat 
until dish is nearly full; there should be four layers if the flavor 
of cheese is to be strong. Pour over a cup White Sauce and 
bake 15 minutes in moderate oven, increasing the heat the last 
5 minutes to brown. 



WHAT AND HOW 



Italian Macaroni. 

y* lb. elbow macaroni 1 small onion 

3 pints salted water 2 cloves 

2 tablespoons olive oil yi lb. grated Parmesan cheese 

The Italians boil macaroni always with seasonings in the 
water and almost invariably use it with tomatoes in some form 
Try this recipe, given me by an Italian fruit vender. 

Stick the 2 cloves, into the onion, add it, with the oil, to 
the water in which the macaroni is to be boiled. Do not rinse 
this macaroni after boiling. Have ready a good Tomato Sauce, 
reheat the macaroni in this and serve very hot. Pass grated 
cheese with it. 

Spaghetti. 

Spaghetti can be cooked by any of the recipes given for 
macaroni, but the Italians do not break it in pieces. When 
the water is boiling dip the ends of spaghetti into it, and as 
they soften coil it around in the kettle. 

Parmesan Cheese 

is expensive when bought in bottles. The Italian grocers and 
fruiterers keep it in blocks at a reasonable price and it is quite 
easily grated. 

Farina. 

Farina, one of the most wholesome of cereals, is too old- 
fashioned to be generally known. It comes in small packages 
is reasonable in price, and the methods of using it are fully 
described on the package. 

Rice, Baked With Cheese. 

Rice may be cooked as macaroni baked with cheese. For 
other recipes for the use of rice, see Vegetables. 

Vermicelli. 

Vermicelli may be used as macaroni, but generally it 
figures in soups. Baked with cheese, it makes a delicate dish, 
quite acceptable as a change. 



CEREALS 229 



Indian Meal Mush, I. 

1 quart boiling water 1 cup Indian meal 

Salt 

Sprinkle salt into the water, mix the meal in a smooth 
paste with cold water. Stir vigorously while adding this paste 
to the boiling water, which should be boiling rapidly. Cook 
for ]A hour, beating hard every few moments. Transfer to 
the fireless cooker for 4 hours. If not put into the cooker, it 
must continue cooking on the stove, in double boiler, at least 
2 hours, during which time it will require almost constant 
stirring and beating. It scorches easily and after the first half 
hour when it must boil, the double boiler is safer than the single 
kettle. This is the famous "hasty pudding" and a most excel- 
lent winter night's supper for the children, served with plenty 
of milk. 

Indian Meal Mush, II. 

The meal may be sprinkled from the hand into the boiling 
water, stirring constantly, after which proceed as preceding 
recipe. 



230 WHAT AND HOW 

CHAPTER XIX 

BREAD AND ROLLS. HOT BREADS AND BISCUIT. 

Bread and Bread Making. 

With such valuable machinery as is now available, I can- 
not recommend the old-fashioned method of bread making. 
More cleanly, more convenient, better in every way, is the 
bread mixer, made by the Universal Company. 

No one can fail if directions be carefully followed, while 
the labor of bread making is minimized. There is no touch- 
ing of bread by the hands, until shaping it into loaves, the 
kneading is done evenly and in a few minutes, and the dough 
remains in a covered receptacle until ready for the pans. 

The Universal Cake Mixer comes with a kneader as well 
as a beater, and can be used for rolls, or a small quantity of 
bread. On the other hand, if a large number of rolls are be- 
ing made, the bread mixer will knead them perfectly. The 
recipes following for bread, rolls, muffins, waffles and griddle 
cakes are all meant to be made in these labor-saving and con- 
venient machines. Every kitchen should have in its equip- 
ment, one bread mixer and a cake mixer. 

Bread dough is light when it has doubled its bulk. 

It is important in bread making to have every thing warm 
but not hot, a temperature sufficient to cause the growth of 
the yeast germ; but not high enough to kill it. Too much salt 
will prevent the growth of yeast, as will also a large quantity 
of sugar, while sugar in small quantities will tend to help it. 
Yeast cakes may be used in double quantity if desired, hasten- 
ing the process and shortening the time required. Two yeast 
cakes to a quart of liquid will raise the dough in 2 or 3 hours 
without harming the bread. Indeed, the time saved by making 
and baking bread in a short time will make the additional 
expense advisable. It is better to make 2 small loaves than 
one large one; they take less time to bake and will bake more 
thoroughly. 



BREADS 281 



To measure flour, fill cup with a spoon; do not pack it 
down, nor shake it; when full, level it off. This applies to 
all flour, corn meal, buckwheat, etc. 

The yeast germ is killed in hot water and the yeast con- 
sequently rendered useless; be careful to use only tepid water 
to dissolve it in, and do not pour it into the sponge while the 
latter is hot. 

Divide time for baking bread into thirds. The first 15 
minutes, the bread should rise in the pan without browning. 
If the oven is too hot and a crust forms over the loaf, it pre- 
vents its rising as it should. The second 15 minutes, it should 
begin to brown, and the third 15 minutes finishes the baking. 
In a gas oven, the light may be turned out for the last 10 min- 
utes, as the oven will retain its heat that long. 



Milk Bread. 

1 cup scalded milk 1 yeast cake dissolved in }/$ cup 

1 tablespoon Crisco tepid water 

2 teaspoons salt 6 cups sifted flour 

1 tablespoon sugar 

Add Crisco, sugar and salt to milk, scald until Crisco is melt- 
ed, add 1 cup cold water. Put into the bread mixer; add yeast 
and flour. Turn the handle for five minutes, cover and let 
raise until double its bulk. Turn the handle again until dough 
gathers into a ball, shape into loaves, put into pans (greased); 
set aside to rise. When light, bake forty -five minutes, de- 
creasing the heat for the last 10 minutes. This bread may be 
mixed, raised, and baked in 5 hours. Butter and lard in equal 
quantities can be used instead of Crisco. 

Yeast is rendered useless if used with hot water, so be 
careful to use tepid water in dissolving it, and to see that the 
milk is cooled before adding yeast. If bread is set over night, 
use % yeast cake to 1 pint liquid, y$ yeast cake to 1 quart 
liquid. This quantity makes 2 loaves. If milk is not con- 
venient, use water (tepid). 



232 WHATANDHOW 



Brown Bread. 

1 cup New Orleans molasses 12 cups whole wheat flour 

3 cups hot water 1 yeast cake dissolved in 1 cup 

1 teaspoon salt tepid water 

Put the molasses and water into the bread mixer; when 
cool, add yeast, salt and sifted flour, and follow directions for 
White Bread. This makes four loaves. 

Whole Wheat Bread 

can be made according to recipe for White Bread, using 1 
cup white flour, 5 cups whole wheat flour. 

Potato Bread. 

Pare, boil and mash, one medium sized potato, scald 
1 pint milk, add 1 pint cold water, stir gradually into the 
potato, and add 2 teaspoons sugar, 2 teaspoons salt, 1 yeast 
cake dissolved in y£ cup tepid water. Put into the bread 
mixer, add 12 cups flour carefully measured, according to 
directions, and proceed as for plain white bread. 

Griddle Bread. 

Take a piece of bread dough, after it is light and ready 
to make into loaves, roll out y 2 inch thick and place on bak- 
ing sheet or in shallow pan to rise. When light, bake in quick 
oven until well browned. It should puff up while baking, and 
have, when done, a crisp crust underneath and on top. Bake 
20 minutes. It is quite easy to pat and pull into shape instead 
of rolling out. 

Rye Bread. 



L n 



1 cup scalded milk 1 teaspoon salt 

1 cup boiling water 1 yeast cake dissolved in }{ cup 

1 tablespoon lard lukewarm water 

}4. cup brown sugar 3 cups flour 

Rye meal 

Add lard, sugar and salt, to milk and water; when luke- 
warm add yeast and flour, beat thoroughly, cover and set in 
a warm place until light. Add about 3 cups rye meal or enough 
to make dough stiff enough to knead; knead thoroughly, let 
rise, shape into loaves, and when light bake in a moderate 
oven. 



BREADS 238 



Pocketbook Rolls. 

1 quart milk 3 tablespoons sugar 

S tablespoons lard, or 1 teaspoon salt 

i tablespoons Crisco 1 yeast cake, dissolved 

Scald milk, with lard, sugar and salt. When cool, add 
yeast and sufficient flour for a stiff batter, beat well and put 
in a warm place to rise. When light, add flour and knead 
thoroughly, either on a board, or in the bread mixer. Roll 
out thin and cut. Put a tiny piece of butter on one side, double 
the other over to cover the butter; when all are doubled over, 
set aside to rise in the pans, and when light, bake in hot oven 
20 minutes. 

Bread Rolls. 

When baking bread reserve 2 cups of the dough when it is 
ready to put into baking tins. Into this work 1 tablespoon 
Crisco and 1 tablespoon sugar. Let rise again and make into 
rolls. 

Potato Rolls. 

Make a sponge of 1 cup mashed potatoes, 1 cup scalded 
milk, 1 cup flour, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1 yeast cake dissolved 
in 1 cup tepid water. After beating thoroughly, put into a 
warm place to rise about 2 hours. When light, add ^4 cup lard 
or Crisco, 2 eggs, flour enough for soft dough. Knead well, 
and let it rise again until double its bulk. Make into rolls, let 
rise until light and bake in a hot oven twenty minutes. Start 
these with the beater in your cake mixer, replace beater with 
kneader for second working. 

Rockford Rolls. 

Pare, boil and mash 4 medium sized potatoes. Add 3 
eggs, H cup sugar, 1 cup lard or ^ cup Crisco, 1 pint water, 
1 teaspoon salt, 1 yeast cake previously dissolved in luke- 
warm water, and flour enough for a sponge. (See Chapter I.) 
Beat thoroughly, and in mixing follow directions given for 
making bread and rolls. Set aside in a warm place until light, 
which should be in about 2 hours. If you have set this sponge 
in the cake mixer; use the beater until you have the sponge 
well beaten, remove and attach the kneader. Now add sufficient 



234 WHATANDHOW 



flour for a dough, remembering not to make the dough for rolls 
quite so stiff as for bread. After kneading well, set aside again 
to rise. When very light, knead again, roll out, cut and put 
into pan or on baking sheet. Cover with thin cloth, and when 
light again, bake 20 minutes in hot oven. If the cake mixer is 
not used, the sponge must be well beaten with a spoon, and the 
dough kneaded by hand. This quantity makes 5 dozen rolls of 
medium size. 

Potato Puff Rolls. 

2 large potatoes boiled and 1 egg 

mashed 1 tablespoon lard 

1 tablespoon sugar % teaspoon salt 

1 cup milk ]A yeast cake 

Add lard to potatoes and beat until melted. Add egg and 
sugar beaten together. Dissolve yeast in tepid water and 
beat into mixture. Alternate milk and flour until too stiff to 
beat, knead well and set to rise. When light, knead and roll 
out. Cut into small rounds and put into pan to bake, or on 
baking sheet, if you have one. They should be ready to bake 
in less than an hour. The whole process takes but 4 or 5 hours 
and the rolls are the easiest and best ones to make that I know 
of. They require very little kneading which may be done in 
the bowl in which they were set, and they can be baked in 
muffin tins or placed close together in a baking pan. The dough 
must be kept soft. 

Squash Rolls. 

A man who remembers his grandmother's hot squash 
rolls, asks that this recipe may be inserted. Modernized, it 
follows : 

One pint milk, scalded with Y /2 cup lard and butter mixed; 
cool and add 1 yeast cake dissolved in tepid water, y 2 cup 
sugar, 1 teaspoon salt and 1 pint (2 cups) squash, boiled, mash- 
ed through colander and drained dry. Add enough flour for 
soft dough. If a cake mixer, or small bread mixer be used, the 
dough can be kneaded softer than if done by hand; in either 
case use as little flour as possible. Knead thoroughly until 
dough looks smooth, cover and keep in a warm place until it is 
light, which will be when double its original bulk. Knead 



BREADS 2S6 



again, and drop by spoonfuls into well greased gem pans, and 
set to rise again. Fill the pans half full; when biscuits rise to 
fill pans, bake in hot oven 20 minutes or until they shrink from 
pans. Recipe makes about 8 dozen biscuits, or more if pans 

arc small. 

Quick Biscuit. 

£ cups Hour ]4. teaspoon salt 

2 teaspoons baking powder % tablespoon lard or Crisco 

Milk and water in equal parts 

Mix the dry ingredients and sift; chop in the lard with a 
knife. When about like coarse sand, add enough milk and 
water, stirring with a knife, to make a mixture that may be 
dropped from a spoon without spreading; drop by teaspoon- 
fuls, on a tin baking sheet, one inch apart. Brush over with 
milk, and bake in a hot oven eight minutes. These bicuits 
may be mixed and baked in twenty minutes. 



Tea Biscuit. 

2 cups flour y 2 teaspoon salt 

i teaspoons baking powder 1 tablespoon laid or Crisco 

$4 cup milk 

Mix dry ingredients and sift twice, w r ork in the lard with 
the tips of fingers, add the liquid, mixing with knife. Roll 
out, }4 inch thick, on a floured board. Cut out, and bake on 
tin baking sheet, or pan, in a hot oven, fifteen minutes. These 
biscuits are more like rolls if half the quantity of shortening is 
used. 

Potato Biscuit. 

Boil and mash 6 medium sized potatoes; press through 
a sieve, add salt to taste, 1 cup milk and 1 teaspoon melted 
butter. Mix thoroughly, and stir in 1 cup flour. Roll out 
in thin sheet on well floured board, and cut with a small cutter. 
Bake on griddle, or in hot oven and serve at once. Three things 
are necessary for the success of these biscuit — soft dough, light 
handlings and quick^baking. 



236 WHATANDHOW 



Sally Lunn. 

1 quart milk 3 eggs 

yi cup butter y 2 teaspoon salt 

1 tablespoon sugar 1 yeast cake 

Warm milk, butter, sugar and salt together, long enough 
to melt butter. Cool, add eggs well beaten, and yeast, dis- 
solved in tepid water. Add enough sifted flour for thick batter, 
and pour into a well greased fluted pan, or old-fashioned Turk's 
head, which is a pan with a funnel in the middle, and set aside 
to rise. The pan should not be more than half full, as when 
light the batter should reach the top. Bake about 1 hour in 
moderate oven. If kept in a warm place, it should be light in 
3 hours. Enough for two large pans. 

Quick Sally Lunn. 

2 cups flour 1 cup milk 

2 eggs ^i cup sugar 

% cup butter 2 teaspoons baking powder 

yi teaspoon grated nutmeg 

Cream butter and sugar, add eggs beaten, milk and flour 
alternately. Beat well, add baking powder and nutmeg, mix 
thoroughly and bake in loaf cake pan 40 minutes in hot oven. 



Corn Bread (White Meal). 

Beat 2 eggs light, stir half a cupful of cold boiled rice 
mashed to a paste into 1 pint milk, and add to the eggs with a 
tablespoon melted butter. Sift together 2 cups white corn 
meal, 1 teaspoonful salt and 1 of baking powder. Stir all to- 
gether and bake in shallow pan, twenty minutes, in hot oven. 

Corn Bread (Yellow Meal). 

2 cups yellow corn meal 1 tablespoon butter substitute 
1 cup flour 1 tablespoon sugar 

1^2 cups milk 1 teaspoon salt 

3 eggs 2 teaspoons baking powder 

Beat eggs very light, add the butter (melted), sift all 
the dry ingredients together, and stir into them the milk and 
the eggs. Beat hard and bake half hour, in a well greased 
pan, in ajiot^oven. 



BREADS 237 



White Corn Meal 

is always used in the South, and as it differs from the yellow 
in quality, requires recipes for itself. It is also called South- 
ern corn meal, and all recipes of Southern origin may be as- 
sumed to call for it, when corn meal is mentioned. 

Southern Batter Bread. 

Sift 2 cups white corn meal, pour over it 2>^ cups boil- 
ing water, cover closely and cool; add 1^2 tablespoons melted 
butter, y 2 teaspoon salt, yolks 2 eggs, \]/ 2 cups milk. Beat 
well, add whites of the eggs beaten stiff, and 2 teaspoons bak- 
ing powder. Bake in a well greased pudding dish, forty min- 
utes in a moderately hot oven, and serve in the dish in which 
it was baked. 

Baltimore Inn Corn Bread. 

]/2 cup rice, boiled to a mush 1 tablespoon butter and lard mixed 

2 cups white corn meal \yi teaspoons baking powder 

2 cups boiling water 2 eggs 

y^ teaspoon salt 

Sift meal and scald w T ith the boiling water. Stir to a 
smooth mush, add rice which should be well drained and mash- 
ed. Beat eggs until light, add to the mixture; now add enough 
milk to make a batter the consistency of custard or thick cream. 
Stir in the baking powder and butter (melted), and bake in 
shallow baking pan in hot oven, 20 minutes to half hour. 

Mush Bread. 

2 cups milk 4 eggs 

>3 cup white corn meal, sifted 1 teaspoon baking powder 

yi teaspoon salt 

Beat eggs separately; heat milk in double boiler, pour 
over the meal, return to fire and cook 2 minutes, stirring con- 
stantly. Cool slightly; beat in the egg yolks and fold in the 
beaten whites. Sprinkle baking powder over the top, cut and 
fold it in. Bake 20 minutes to half an hour, and serve in dish 
in which it was baked, using a paper casserole cover or napkin 
to cover the sides of pan. 



WHAT AND HOW 



CHAPTER XX 



MUFFINS, WAFFLES AND GRIDDLE CAKES. 
Muffins I. 

l /i cup butter V^ cup milk 

}i cup sugar 2 cups flour 

1 egg 2 teaspoons baking powder 

Cream butter and sugar, add beaten egg, sift flour and 
baking powder twice, and add alternately with the milk. Have 
muffin tins well greased and hot, fill $4 full, and bake in hot 
oven half an hour or until brown and shrunken from pans. 

Muffins II. 

1 egg }{ cup butter 

1 tablespoon sugar 1 cup milk 

l /i teaspoon salt 1 cup flour sifted 

2 teaspoons baking powder 

Beat sugar, butter and egg together, in a Universal Cake 

Mixer if you have it, add the milk and flour and beat again. 

Now add the salt and enough flour to make a stiff batter, 

remembering that a batter is a mixture which can be beaten 

When ready to bake, add the baking powder, pour into well 

greased muffin rings on a hot griddle and bake, turning them 

over to brown on the top. 

Blueberry or Huckleberry Muffins. 

yi cup butter 2>£ cups flour 

y$ cup sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder 

1 egg 1 cup milk 

1 cup blueberries Pinch of salt 

Cream butter and sugar, add egg, beaten, and berries. 

Mix thoroughly. Sift flour, baking powder and salt together 

twice, and add alternately with milk. This recipe makes 16 

muffins. Bake in muffin tins. 

Rice Muffins. 

2 cups boiled rice measured after }4 tablespc m\ sugar 
boiling 3 eggs 

1 cup flour, sifted with 1 teaspoon 1 tablespoon melted lard 

baking powder or butter 

3 cups milk K teaspoon salt 



BJR E A 1) S 239 



Boil the rice until it is a soft mush. Drain, and rub 
through a sieve. Add the yolks of the eggs beaten light, the 
milk, melted butter (or lard), flour and sugar. Whip the whites 
of eggs until dry and stiff, adding the salt to them before beat- 
ing, and fold in lightly. Bake in muffin rings or muffin tins. 
Muffins may be baked in the oven either in rings on baking 
sheets, or in muffin tins. 

Corn Meal Gems. 

1 cup com meal (yellow) 1 cup flotil- 
la tablespoons sugar ]4, teaspoon salt 
*2 eggs beaten 1 cup milk 
•£ tablespoons melted Crisco 2 teaspoons baking powder 

Sift meal, flour, sugar, salt and baking powder 3 times. 
Mix eggs with milk and stir into flour and meal mixture. Add 
melted Crisco and bake in well greased gem pans 20 minutes, 
in moderate oven. These gems may be made without the eggs, 
in which case use an extra teaspoon of baking powder. 

Hominy Muffins. 

Follow recipe, for rice muffins using breakfast hominy in 
place of rice. % cup raw rice or hominy will make 2 cups 
when boiled. 

Graham Muffins. 

To one pint of cold milk add one and a half pints graham 
flour, one teaspoon sugar, half a teaspoon of salt and one tea- 
spoon of melted Crisco. Stir and beat well, and lastly sift 
in two teaspoons of baking powder. Stir so as to mix evenly 
through the dough. Put into muffin pans well greased with 
Crisco and bake in a moderate oven half an hour, or until 
thoroughly cooked. 

English Muffins. 

1 cup mashed potato l /2 cup sugar 

3 eggs ^4 cup lard or Crisco 

2 cups water >£ teaspoon salt 

1 yeast cake Flour for a sponge 

Beat the lard into the potato while the latter is hot, add 
the salt, sugar and water. Beat the eggs, stir them in, and 
then add the flour. Beat hard, add the yeast previously dis- 
solved in y 2 cup tepid water. If you have a Universal Cake 



240 WHAT AND HOW 



Mixer, you may put all the ingredients into it at once, and 
beat all together, adding the flour last. This makes a sponge 
(a soft batter) and must be set aside, well covered for 2 hours 
or until light. When light, change the beater in the cake mixer 
for the kneader, and turn in enough flour for a soft dough that 
may be dropped from a spoon. Set aside again until light, 
turn the kneader a few times, and remove it. Have ready well 
greased muffin rings set on a baking sheet, drop the dough by 
the spoonful into each one until it is half full, set in a warm 
place until they rise to the top of the rings when they are ready 
to bake. This quantity will make 3 dozen muffins. If so many 
are not required, bake the remainder as rolls, by baking in 
muffin tins, or reduce the recipe. These are good the second 
day, if split, buttered, and toasted. 



Whole Wheat Muffins. 

4 cups whole wheat flour 3 cups scalded milk 

1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon lard or Crisco 

1 tablespoon sugar 1 yeast cake 

Heat milk, with sugar and salt, take from fire and stir 
in lard. When cool, add yeast dissolved in 1 cup tepid water. 
Sift flour into bowl or cake mixer, add milk mixture and beat 
thoroughly. Set aside in a warm place until light (about 3 
hours), put into muffin tins (well greased), let rise again and 
bake. See time table for baking. 



Graham Puffs. 

4 cups Graham flour 4 eggs 

2 cups milk 1 teaspoon salt 

1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon melted butter 

2 teaspoons baking powder 

Beat eggs separately, add the milk, salt, sugar and 
melted butter to the yolks, add the flour sifted with baking 
powder, gradually, beating hard to prevent lumping. The 
cake mixer will save time and labor. When well beaten, fold 
in the beaten whites of eggs, fill hot greased muffin tins half 
full and bake in hot oven. 



BREA D S > ^ I 



Popovers. 

1 cup milk 1 cup sifted flour 

£ eggs j^ teaspoon butter, melted 

l 4 teaspoon salt 

Boat eggs just enough to mix yolks and whites, add milk 
and salt. Add this mixture gradually to the flour, stirring 
vigorously. Beat until the batter is smooth. Have rnuffin 
pans very hot and well greased, fill Y$ full and bake in hot oven 
40 minutes. Popover tins are not a necessity, but if you can 
procure them, the popovers will be a better shape than if baked 
in regular muffin tins. This quantity makes 10 popovers. 

Kornlet Muffins. 

1 quart milk 2 cups flour 

3 eggs, beaten 2 teaspoons baking powder 

1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon sugar 

1 cup kornlet 

Sift flour, sugar, salt and baking powder 3 times. Add 
milk gradually, beating all the time, and eggs. Lastly stir 
in kornlet. Beat hard and bake in well greased muffin tins 
in a hot oven. Sift dry ingredients on squares of manilla 
paper, using 2, about 14 inches square. 

Waffles. 
Have the waffle irons very hot and well greased, using 
the butter brush to reach into every depression. Pour the 
batter from a pitcher until the iron is lightly covered, close 
the irons and turn them over. If the irons are heated just 
right the waffle should bake in 3 minutes. Never wash a waffle 
iron, rub it off with salt after using, and put away in a paper 
bag. 

Waffles. 

3 cups flour 2 cups milk 

2 eggs \}4 teaspoons baking powder 

1 tablespoon melted butter yi teaspoon salt 

Mix and sift dry ingredients add milk gradually, yolks 
of eggs, w T ell beaten, butter and whites of eggs, beaten stiff 
and folded in. If not ready to bake at once, do not sift bak- 
ing powder with other dry ingredients, but stir it in just be- 
fore baking. 



242 WHATANDHOW 



Kornlet Waffles. 

1 cup kornlet 2 eggs 

2 cups milk 1 teaspoon baking powder 
1 tablespoon butter 1 cup flour 

Sift flour, baking powder, and 1 teaspoon salt together 
twice. Add milk and eggs well beaten. Mix kornlet and 
butter together and beat into the batter. Continue beating 
for 2 minutes. Bake as waffles. 

The Universal Cake Mixer is invaluable in the mixing 
and beating of this recipe. 

Rice Waffles. 

1 cup boiled rice 2 eggs 

2 cups milk 1 cup flour 

1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon baking powder 

1 tablespoon butter 

Mash rice through a sieve, stir in butter. If rice is not 
hot enough to melt butter, soften it before adding to rice. 
Add the yolks of eggs, well beaten, to the milk. Sift salt, 
flour, and baking powder twice, combine milk and rice mix- 
tures, add flour and fold in the whites of eggs, whipped stiff 
and dry. The batter should be thin and free from lumps. Bake 
according to directions given in preceding recipes. 

Butter Substitute. 

In all recipes calling for butter, I recommend the use of 
butter substitutes. There are several good nut butters on the 
market at half the price of butter, that will answer just as 
well for pastry, bread, rolls, muffins, and cake. Crisco is the 
best substitute for lard and lard and butter mixed. It is also 
perfectly good in gingerbread or even in plain cake of all kinds. 
Add a pinch of salt if using for cake. 

Griddle Cakes. 

Use soapstone griddle if possible, as it requires no greas- 
ing, thus avoiding the smoke arising from a greased griddle, 
and as cakes are baked instead of fried, it is by far the best 
for use. Let it heat gradually — there is danger of its crack- 
ing if heated suddenly. Rub with salt and wipe with a clean 



GRIDDLE CAKES 243 



cloth. If you have a steel griddle, you may also use it with- 
out greasing, if the cakes have melted butter in them and 
unless there is molasses in recipe. If you must grease the 
griddle, in case you use an iron one, cut a turnip in half, dip 
it into fat, and rub over the surface. This makes compara- 
tively no smoke. 

Buckwheat Cakes. 

4 cups buckwheat I/2 yeast cake 

1 teaspoon salt Tepid water 

Dissolve yeast cake in >< cup tepid water, add salt to 
buckwheat and enough tepid water for thin batter. Add 
yeast and beat hard. Cover and leave in warm place over 
night. In the morning, take 2 tablespoons molasses (not 
syrup), stir into it % teaspoon soda, and add to the batter, 
stirring it in very lightly. The molasses gives to the cakes 
the rich brown color which belongs to the real buckwheat 
cake, while the soda counteracts any acidity which may de- 
velop during the night. Do not beat the batter after it is 
once light. 

Flannel Cakes. 

2 cups flour 1 egg 

2 cups milk 1 teaspoon baking powder 

yi teaspoon salt 

Beat egg light, add milk, and fold in flour, salt and bak- 
ing powder sifted together twice. Bake at once. Marion 
Harland recommends this as "the best, cheapest and most 
wholesome way I know for the preparation of breakfast cakes," 
and if they are mixed quickly and baked at once, they are 
far better than any flannel cakes of which I have knowledge. 
If the batter be made a little thinner by using less flour, it 
makes excellent waffles. 

Whole Wheat Griddle Cakes. 

]/ 2 cup whole wheat flour 1 tablespoon melted butter 

\ cup flour \yi, cups milk 

2 teaspoons baking powder 1 egg 

yi teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons sugar 

Mix and sift dry ingredients, beat egg and add milk, pour 
slowly on to the first mixture, beat hard, add butter and bake 



244 WHATANDHOW 



on griddle. These make rather a thick cake, light and delicious; 
it may be split and butter put between the halves. 



Corn Slappers. 

2 cups yellow corn meal 3 eggs 

1 cup flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 

Milk 1 teaspoon salt 

Sift corn meal and scald it with yi cup boiling water, 
stirring well, add yolks of the eggs beaten light and enough 
milk to enable you to give the batter a very thorough beat- 
ing. Now add flour and salt sifted together, and more milk. 
The batter now should be about the consistency of thick cream. 
Fold in the beaten whites of the eggs, and when ready to bake, 
stir in the baking powder. 



Oatmeal Griddle Cakes. 

% cup cold cooked oatmeal % cup sugar 

1}4 cups flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 

1 egg 2 tablespoons melted butter 

\yi cups milk % teaspoon salt 

Sift flour, salt, baking powder and sugar, add milk grad- 
ually to oatmeal with egg, working it smooth with part of flour 
until it can be well beaten. When free from lumps add the 
remainder of the flour and milk, the melted butter last. These 
cakes can be made without the egg in which case add an extra 
teaspoon baking powder. 

Rice Griddle Cakes I. 

Follow recipe for oatmeal cakes, substituting cold boiled 
rice for oatmeal. 

Rice Cakes II. 

Boil ]/ 2 cup rice until reduced to a mush, drain and rub 
through a sieve. When cool, add yolks of 3 eggs and beat 
hard. To this add 4 cups milk and teaspoon salt. Stir in 
enough flour to make a thin batter, and fold in the beaten 
whites of eggs. Lastly, stir in 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 
and bake at once. 



G R I D D L E C A K E S 245 



Bread Crumb Cakes. 

i cups stale bread crumbfl i eggs 

2 cups milk, scalded yi cup flour 

l tablespoon butter substitute .Salt — '4 teaspoon 

2 teaspoons baking powder 

Soak crumbs in milk until soft, add eggs beaten and other 
ingredients. Heat well. 

Corn Meal Griddle Cakes. 

1 .. cup corn meal, white \ l /2 cups sour milk 

l /2 cup flour 1 tablespoon molasses 

1 teaspoon soda 1 tablespoon melted butter 

1 egg l A teaspoon salt 

Beat molasses and butter to a cream, add milk, egg 
beaten, and dry ingredients sifted together. These cakes 
will bake on a soapstone griddle without greasing it, but, 
having molasses in them, will not bake on the steel griddle 
unless it is greased slightly. Give them a hard beating be- 
fore baking. They will be light and flaky if baked as soon 
as mixed. The action of soda and sour milk combined is the 
agent for "raising" the batter, and this action does not con- 
tinue for many minutes. 

Green Corn Griddle Cakes. 

1 quart grated corn 4 eggs 

1 pint milk >£ teaspoon salt 

1 tablespoon melted butter 1 cup flour 

The corn may be grated, or the grain split with a sharp 

knife and scraped out with the back of the knife, or best of 

all ways to obtain the grain without the husk, use the little 

scorer that comes for the purpose and will be found a great 

convenience at the table, when corn is served boiled on the 

cob, as well as in the kitchen in the preparation of corn for 

cooking in various ways. Beat the yolks of eggs, and add 

to the corn. Add salt, milk and melted butter, and mix well. 

Now add the flour cautiously that the batter may not be too 

thick, fold in the beaten whites of eggs and bake on a hot 

griddle. These cakes are easily spoiled by too much flour. 

try a little on the griddle if too thin to turn, you may add a 

little more flour. It may need all the cup called for in the 

recipe and it may not, depending upon the brand of flour. This is a 

Creole griddle cake, and is considered a great delicacy in the South. 



246 WHAT AND HOW 

CHAPTER XXI 

RUSKS, CRULLERS AND DOUGHNUTS. 

Rusks. 

Set a sponge over night with 3 cups milk, scalded and 
cooled, 1 cup sugar, y 2 yeast cake dissolved in tepid water, 
and enough flour for a stiff batter. Beat well, cover, and set 
in a warm place. In the morning add 2 cups sugar, 1 cup 
butter and lard mixed, or $/i cup Crisco, 2 eggs beaten, y 2 
teaspoon soda, dissolved in 1 tablespoon hot water, and flour 
for a soft dough. Knead well in the cake mixer, not less than 
5 minutes, cover and let rise. When light, turn the kneader 
for 3 minutes, roll out, cut with a small cutter and put in pan 
or on baking sheet about 2 inches apart so that they will not 
touch when light; cover with a piece of cheese cloth and set 
aside. When light, brush over with the white of an egg, slight- 
ly beaten and sweetened, sprinkle with cinnamon and bake 
in hot oven 20 minutes. If sponge is set in morning, use \}4 
yeast cakes. 

Clover Rusks. 

With the hands well buttered, shape part of the dough in 
balls the size of marbles; grease a muffin tin, and put 3 balls 
into each tin. Remember that when light, each ball will be 
just double the size you made it; by this, you will be able to 
judge of the right size to roll the balls. When light, bake as 
above. 

Potato Rusks. 

Set sponge over night, of 1 cup mashed potato, 1 cup 
brown sugar, ]/ 2 yeast cake dissolved in 1 cup tepid water and 
2 tablespoons flour. Beat well and set aside in a warm place. 
If too thick to beat, add more tepid water. In morning, add 1 
cup butter, or yi cup Crisco^ S eggs and flour for a soft dough. 
Knead well and set aside until light. Follow directions in 
recipe for rusks for cutting out and baking. 



RUSK, CRULLERS AND DOUGHNUTS M 



Doughnuts. 

Do not attempt to fry doughnuts or crullers, until you 
have carefully read directions for deep fat frying in Chapter I, 
remembering that you are to fry an uncooked mixture. Crullers 
are richer and crisper than doughnuts. Marion Harland says 
doughnuts improve with age if kept in a stone jar with a tight 
fitting cover, or in a large cracker box. As you pack them in, 
sprinkle each layer with powdered sugar. 

Doughnuts I. 

4 potatoes, boiled and mashed 2 teaspoons lard or Crisco 

2 cups sugar 2 eggs 

Ya, teaspoon salt l A teaspoon nutmeg 

6 teaspoons baking powder Flour 

Beat the lard or Crisco into the potato while it is hot. 
Add eggs beaten with the sugar, and seasoning. Stir in the 
baking powder and lastly the flour, using only enough to make 
dough stiff enough to roll out and cut. This quantity will make 
5 dozen doughnuts if cut with a medium size cutter. See 
directions in paragraph above for keeping. 



Doughnuts II. 

1 cup milk % cup butter and lard mixed 

yi yeast cake 1 cup brown sugar 

>£ teaspoon salt 2 eggs 

yi nutmeg, grated Flour 

Scald milk and cool; when lukewarm, add yeast cake, dis- 
solved in a little tepid water, the salt, and enough flour for 
a stiff batter; let rise over night. In morning, add shortening 
melted, sugar, eggs beaten, nutmeg, and enough flour to make 
a soft dough; let rise again, and if necessary add more flour, 
but keep dough just as soft as is possible to handle. In the 
cake mixer, the kneading is easily done, when it could not be 
done by hand. Roll out Y± inch thick, cut and place on floured 
board, cover with a piece of cheese cloth and let rise until very 
light. Fry, drain and sprinkle with powdered sugar when 
cool. 



248 WHAT AND HOW 



Quick Doughnuts, I. 

yi cup butter 3 eggs 

2 cups sugar \}4 cups milk 

5 cups flour 3 teaspoons baking powder 

]4 teaspoon grated nutmeg 

Cream butter and sugar, add well beaten eggs, nutmeg 
and milk. Put 4 cups of the flour into sifter with baking 
powder, and stir into the mixture. Use the other cup to roll 
out with, you may have to use some of it to make the dough 
stiff enough to handle, but keep it as soft as possible. Roll out 
and cut; fry as already directed. 

Quick Doughnuts, II. 

1 cup sugar 1 egg 

\ l /> cups milk 3 teaspoons baking powder 

Dash of salt yi teaspoon grated nutmeg 

Flour for soft dough 

Beat egg, add milk and sugar; sift together 2 cups flour 
with seasoning and baking powder and beat into mixture. 
Now add enough flour for soft dough and follow directions 
given. Instead of rolling out and cutting, these may be dropped 
into hot fat by teaspoonful. 

Crullers, I. 

1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 

yi cup lard or Crisco 6 eggs, well beaten separately 

Flour 

Cream lard or Crisco and sugar, add yolks of eggs and 
cinnamon. Now stir in enough flour for a stiff batter, fold in 
the beaten whites and add more flour to make a soft dough. 
Roll out, cut with a cutter and fry in deep fat. Sprinkle with 
powdered sugar and cinnamon. 

Crullers, II. 

4 tablespoons butter yi teaspoon ground cinnamon 

1 cup powdered sugar 4 eggs 

Flour 

Cream butter and sugar, add cinnamon and beat hard. 
Add eggs, beaten, and beat hard again. Sift the flour in grad- 
ually, enough for a good dough that can be rolled out. 



RISK, CRULLERS AND DOUGHNUTS 240 



Proceed by directions given in Crullers I. Fry the little 

rounds that are cut from the centre; they make quite 



pretty little crullers. 



Raisin Bread, 



1 cup milk scalded yi teaspoon salt 

£ cups Hour 8 eggs 

1 cup sugar 1 lb. seeded raisins, cut in half 

1 yeast cake 1 /l lb. currants 

1 cup tepid water 

Sift flour and sugar, pour over it the hot milk and beat 
until cool enough to add the yeast, dissolved in the tepid water. 
Add salt, beat, and set to raise in a warm place. When light, 
add eggs, beaten, raisins and currants, mixing and beating 
until thoroughly combined and the fruit well distributed. 
Add enough flour for a soft dough, change the beater in cake 
mixer for the kneader, and knead 5 minutes. Make into 3 
loaves and set aside to rise. When dough has doubled in bulk, 
bake as bread. Sultana raisins may be used instead of seeded 
raisins. 

Nut Bread. 

4 cups flour 1 cup chopped nuts 

4 teaspoons baking powder yi cup sugar 

1 cup milk 2 eggs 

}A teaspoon salt 

Sift flour, salt, sugar and baking powder three times. 
Beat eggs light and add to milk. Stir into the milk the nuts, 
and combine mixtures. Put into pans, let rise 20 minutes and 
bake in moderate oven ^4 hour. It should almost double its 
bulk before baking. Use small bread tins well greased. 



250 WHAT AND HOW 



CHAPTER XXII 

CAKE. 

Miss Farmar, in her book on cooking, lays great stress 
upon the importance of knowing how to measure and com- 
bine materials properly. She says: "The mixing and baking 
of cake requires more care and judgment than any other branch 
of cookery, notwithstanding it seems the one most frequently 
attempted by the inexperienced." There are points to be 
studied by the novice until she is master of the art of cake 
making, and I will make them as brief as possible. 

First, have the best of materials, and have everything 
ready before you begin to mix the cake. 

Second, make sure that your fire is solid and will not 
need attention while your cake is baking. You must be sure 
of a steady even heat. 

Materials. A good quality of butter substitute, eggs per- 
fectly fresh, fine granulated sugar and pastry flour are essen- 
tials. 

All authorities now recommend the use of pastry flour 
for cakes. The best flour for fine cakes is the Swansdown flour. 
It is only slightly higher in price than ordinary flour and the 
results justify the extra expense. It is more starchy and less 
glutenous, consequently makes a lighter and more tender 
cake. If ordinary bread flour be used, take 1 tablespoon 
of it from each cup measured. Long continued beating 
makes a fine grained cake. Where powdered sugar was used 
in fine cakes the granulated may now be substituted since 
it is much finer in grain than formerly. Do not use the coarse 
granulated sugar. It makes a coarse grained cake with a hard 
crust. 

The Oven. 

The oven should be hot enough to raise the cake to its 
full height before it begins to brown. If the oven is too hot, 
a crust will form which prevents the cake from raising. Watch 
it closely, it may be necessary to open the oven door a crack, 
until the batter shows signs of spreading. 



CAKE 251 



Consult time table for length of time required to bake. 
Test with a wooden toothpick; if it comes out clean from the 
middle of the cake, it is done. 

Divide time for baking into quarters. The first quarter 
it should raise to its full height (double its original bulk) with- 
out browning. The second it should begin to brown; the third, 
decrease heat slightly, and allow it to continue browning; the 
last quarter it finishes baking and shrinks from the pan. Turn 
out on a wire cake cooler. 

Cakes without butter are best baked on paper. Select 
a light weight manilla paper, and cut it to fit the bottom and 
sides of the pan. In case of a square pan, cut a diagonal slit 
at each corner, so that the edges will fold over each other 
in the corner of the pan. Grease well, using a butter brush, 
and when the cake is baked the paper will peel off readily. 
Sponge cake and angel food should be allowed to cool in the 
pan, which must be inverted with something under its edges, 
allowing the air to circulate underneath. This process elong- 
ates the air cells and assures lightness as well as firmness. 

A Universal cake mixer, enameled bowls, Dover egg 
beater, perforated wooden spoon for beating batter, silver 
fork for creaming butter and sugar, "clean cut" layer cake 
pans, or Van Duzen loaf cake pans. Russia iron baking sheets 
for drop cakes and cookies, and enameled gem pans for small 
cakes, are the articles I recommend for cake making and baking. 

Drexel Layer Cake. 

This is the simplest and plainest recipe, good for any 

kind of layer cake where a rich cake is not desired. 

]4, cup butter 2 eggs 

1 cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder, 

z /2 cup milk sifted with \]4 cups flour 

1 teaspoon vanilla 

Cream butter, using a silver fork, add sugar gradually, 
beaten yolks of eggs, milk and flour alternately. Fold in the 
beaten whites of eggs last with the vanilla. Bake in two layers. 
These directions for mixing hold good for all cakes containing 
butter, unless otherwise stated. 



252 WHATANDHOW 



A Richer Layer Cake. 

1 cup butter 3 cups flour, sifted 3 times with 

2 cups sugar 1 heaping teaspoon baking powder 
4 eggs 1 cup milk 

This quantity will make 2 layer cakes, or it may be baked 
as loaf cake. It is capable of much variety, nuts may be added, 
or fruit if baked as loaf cake, and any sort of filling or icing 
can be used for layer cake. Mix according to directions given 
in previous recipe. 

Orange Layer Cake. 

3 tablespoons butter 3 cups Swansdown flour, sifted with 

2 cups sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder 

5 eggs 1 cup water 

Juice of an orange and }4 the grated peel 
Cream butter and sugar, add beaten yolks of eggs, the 
orange juice and grated rind, and the water and flour alter- 
nately. Fold in the stiffly beaten whites of 3 eggs, reserving 
the other two for the filling; bake in layer cake pans. 

Filling for Orange Cake. 

To the whipped whites of 2 eggs, add gradually 1 cup 
powdered sugar, beating all the while. Add juice 1 orange 
and }4 the grated peel, and when soft and creamy, spread 
between layers of cake (when cold) and over the top. 

White Mountain Cake. 

3 cups sugar \% cups Swansdown flour, sifted with 

1 cup butter 2 teaspoons baking powder 

yi cup milk Whites of 10 eggs 

Cream butter and sugar, add milk, fold in the eggs whipped 
stiff and dry, alternately with flour. Bake in layers. 

Filling. 

Whites 3 eggs whipped stiff, add 2>£ cups powdered sugar, 
whip well together. Spread a layer with this, sprinkle with 
grated cocoanut, place on top of this a second layer of cake, 
spread with icing and cocoanut. Cover top and sides in the 
same way. This recipe makes 4 layers, half of it will make a 
very good sized cake. Use yolks for gold cake, or custard. 



CAKE 253 



Chocolate Cake. 

)i lb. chocolate, in small pieces 1 cup milk 

1 egg, yolk only, beaten 1 cup powdered .sugar 

Mix well together and boil until smooth and thick, stir- 
ring constantly. Set aside to cool. 

x /i cup butter Yolks 2 eggs, beaten light 

1 cup sugar 1 cup milk 

2 cups flour, sifted 1 teaspoon soda 

Whites 2 eggs, whipped light 

Cream butter and sugar, add yolks of eggs, and the milk. 
Dissolve soda in 1 tablespoon hot water. Add this, the flour 
and the beaten whites folded in. Flavor with 1 teaspoon 
vanilla, and add the chocolate mixture, folding it over and 
over until well mixed. Bake in 2 layers (see time table for 
baking layer cake.) Put together and cover with Boiled Icing, 
or Chocolate Icing. 

Caramel Cake. 

% cup butter 4 eggs 

2 cups sugar 3 cups flour 

1 cup milk 2 teaspoons baking powder 

Mix according to directions, folding in the beaten whites 
of eggs at the last, and bake in layer cake pans. 



Filling. 

2^3 cups (1 lb.) brown sugar % cup butter 

Cream these thoroughly and cook over hot water until 
smooth and creamy, add 1 cup cream or rich milk, and cook 
(without the hot water) until it will form a soft ball when 
dropped into cold water. Remove from fire and beat until 
thick enough to spread. Put between layers, and cover top 
and sides. 

Sponge Cake. 

5 eggs The weight of 2 in sifted pastry 

Their weight in sugar flour 

Beat eggs and sugar together, without separating the 
eggs, for 20 minutes. Add juice and rind of 1 lemon and the 
flour. Line pans with paper, grease with butter and dust 



254 WHATANDHOW 



with powdered sugar, shaking out all that will not stick to 
paper. This gives a sugary crust to cake. If Universal cake 
mixer is used, the labor of beating is materially decreased. 

Sedgeley Cake. 

Into a Universal cake mixer put y^ cup butter substitute 
softened, iy$ cups brown sugar, 2 eggs, Y /2 cup of milk, \yi 
cups sifted flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder, yi teaspoon 
cloves, % teaspoon cinnamon, and y* teaspoon grated nutmeg. 
Beat all together for 3 minutes. Bake in 2 layers. Put to- 
gether and cover with 

Sedgeley Frosting. 

Two cups brown sugar, 4 tablespoons butter. ^3 cup of 
cream, y^ teaspoon Mapleine. 

Mix all together, bring slowly to boiling point, boil 15 
minutes, and beat until thick enough to spread. While soft, 
place pieces of English walnut meats over the top. If not 
strong with the taste of maple sugar, add more Mapleine. 

Quick Cake. 

yi cup soft butter substitute 2 teaspoons baking powder 

1^3 cups brown sugar }4 teaspoon cinnamon 

2 eggs y£ teaspoon grated nutmeg 

}4 cup milk }4 lb. dates, stoned and cut into 

\yi cups flour pieces 

Put ingredients into bowl, and beat all together for 3 
minutes. Bake in a loaf 35 or 40 minutes. This is Miss Far- 
mar's recipe, and if mixed according to directions, cannot 
fail. I would suggest that the ingredients be put into a cake 
mixer, in the order given, and the handle turned for 3 min- 
utes. The mixer saves much strength, and is a great improve- 
ment over a spoon wielded by hand. This recipe may be baked 
in layers and put together with Chocolate Icing, or a white 
filling, and in the place of dates, seeded and chopped raisins 
may be used, or the fruit may be left out entirely. I know 
of no more satisfactory cake so easily made, and capable of 
so many variations. Notice that nothing is prepared separately. 
All ingredients go in before the beating begins. There will be 
utter failure if they are added separately. 



CAKE 255 



Fruit Cake I. 

1 lb. flour, sifted 1 cup milk 

1 lb. sugar 1 tablespoon molasses 
}i lb. butter 10 eggs 

2 lbs. seeded raisins, cut in half 1 teaspoon soda, level 

1 lb. Sultana raisins }4 lb. citron 

2 lbs. currants 1 lb. almonds, blanched and 
2 tablespoons orange juice, or any split 

fruit juice 1 lb. figs 

1 tablespoon ground cloves 1 tablespoon lemon juice 

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon 1 tablespoon ground allspice 

Put figs and citron through meat chopper, using coarse 
cutter. Cream butter and sugar, add eggs beaten very light, 
spices, milk, soda dissolved in the molasses and the fruit dredg- 
ed with part of the flour. Now add all other ingredients, mix 
thoroughly and bake in well greased pan, in a moderate oven 
3 hours. If cake is steamed for half the time and finished in 
the oven, it is likely to be more moist. Stand the pans in vessels 
containing water. Candied lemon and orange peel may be 
added if desired, and almonds may be shredded if preferred. A 
perfectly steady heat is essential to success in baking fruit cake. 



Fruit Cake II. 

2 cups flour 1 lb. seeded raisins, cut in half 

1 cup sugar }4 lb. currants 

% lb .butter y£ lb. conserved cherries, cut in 

6 eggs pieces 

}4 cup water yi lb. dates, chopped or cut 

]/2 cup orange juice or fruit juice of small 

any kind % lb. nuts, broken in pieces 

1 teaspoon ground mace yi, lb. citron, grated 

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon Rind 1 orange, grated 

1 lb. Sultana raisins 1 teaspoon baking powder 

Sift flour, reserve yi cup, add baking powder and spices 
to remainder and sift again. Beat eggs separately, wash fruit 
and cut as directed, after drying it between 2 towels. The 
nuts, and fruit except Sultanas, may be put through the meat 
chopper, using the coarse cutter. Dredge lightly with the 
t/2 cup flour and mix thoroughly. Cream butter and sugar, 
add beaten yolks of eggs, flour and liquid alternately. Now 
stir in the fruit and nuts, and fold in the whites of eggs whipped 
dry. The grated orange rind should be stirred into the orange 
juice. Bake as directed in Fruit Cake I. 



256 WHAT AND HOW 



Gold Cake I. 

Yolks of 5 eggs yi cup milk 

yi cup butter J/& cup flour sifted with 

yi cup sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder 

Orange or vanilla flavoring 

Mix according to directions already given, and bake as a 
loaf cake, or omitting the flavoring add yi cup nuts broken 
in small pieces and bake in gem pans. Or, bake in gem pans 
cover with a white icing and place on each cake half an English 
walnut. 

Gold Cake II. 

1 cup butter Yolks of 4 eggs 

2 cups sugar 1 cup milk 

S}4 cups flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 

Cream butter and sugar, add eggs and milk, lastly the 
flour sifted twice with the baking powder. Flavor with the 
juice and grated rind of one orange and bake in a loaf. Tee 
when cold, with Orange Icing. 

Silver Cake. 

1 cup sugar Whites, of 4 eggs, whipped stiff 
yi cup butter >£ cup water 

2 cups flour \y$ teaspoons baking powder 

Cream butter and sugar, add water and flour, (sifted with 
baking powder), alternately, and fold in the whites of eggs 
last. Bake in a loaf. Before adding the whites of eggs, beat 
the batter thoroughly and flavor with a teaspoon of rose water. 
Ice with a white frosting. This cake and the one preceding 
it are old-fashioned recipes, and it was the custom in the days 
of my grandmother to make both on the same day, and alter- 
nate the yellow and white slices in the cake basket. Of course, 
it has been necessary to bring the ingredients and directions 
for mixing "up to date." 

Cream Sponge Cake. 

Sift together three times, \ l /2 cups flour, 1 teaspoon bak- 
ing powder, 1 cup sugar and a pinch of salt. Break 2 large 
eggs in a measuring cup (holding ]/ 2 pint), and fill the cup 



CAKE 257 



with thick cream. Pour eggs and cream into the flour and 
beat thoroughly. Flavor with the grated rind of a large lemon 
and bake in a loaf. 

Boston Favorite Cake. 

$i cup butter 1 cup milk 

2 cups sugar 3>^ cups flour 

4 eggs 3 teaspoons baking powder 

Cream butter and sugar, add eggs beaten together, milk 
and flour sifted twice with baking powder. Bake in 2 loaves, 
or in gem pans. — Miss Farmar. 

Huckleberry Cake. 

4 cups flour, sifted with 1 cup butter 
2 teaspoons baking powder 2 cups sugar 

5 eggs 1}4 cups milk 

yZ teaspoon cinnamon yi teaspoon grated nutmeg 

1 cup huckleberries 

Cream butter and sugar, add eggs beaten light, milk, and 

spices and flour. Dredge the berries well with flour and stir 

them into the batter. Bake in well greased gem pans. These 

cakes are best when 24 hours old. 

Angel Cake. 

1 cup egg whites 1 cup granulated sugar 

Pinch of salt 1 cup flour 

1 teaspoon extract bitter almond 1 teaspoon cream tartar 

Put salt into egg whites and whip until perfectly dry. 
Sift the flour and cream tartar together 4 times. Sift sugar 
3 times. Fold the sugar into the egg, and add the flour care- 
fully, cutting and folding until mixed. Bake in ungreased 
pan with a tube in centre, ^ hour, or until a broom straw 
will come out clean from the centre. The oven must have a 
steady heat, any increase or decrease of heat will ruin the 
cake. When done, invert pan over a clean towel, until the 
cake drops out. Its own weight will elongate the air cells, 
and thus increase its lightness. When the cake rises to its full 
height and begins to brown, cover with buttered paper. Angel 
Cake and all fine cakes require pastry flour to make them per- 
fect. Swans Down flour is the best, and a trial of it will mean 
its constant use. It cannot be too highly recommended. 



258 WHAT AND HOW 



Gingerbread. 

1 cup molasses 2 cups flour, sifted with 

yi cup butter and lard mixed ¥* teaspoon soda 

yi cup sour milk 2 teaspoons ginger 

1 egg 2 teaspoons cinnamon 

Mix molasses and shortening, add spice and egg, beaten, 
milk, and lastly flour and soda. Bake in sheet not more than 
1 inch thick. The molasses and shortening will mix more 
readily if slightly warmed, and then beaten with a Dover 
beater or cake mixer until it is light and smooth. Ginger- 
bread burns easily. It is wise to use asbestos mats under- 
neath the rack, especially in a gas stove. 

Gingerbread Without Eggs. 

1 cup molasses 3 tablespoons lard or butter 
1 cup brown sugar mixed, or Crisco 

1 cup sour milk 1 teaspoon cinnamon 

3 cups flour, sifted 1 teaspoon ginger 

\yi teaspoons soda >£ teaspoon allspice 

Warm molasses, sugar and shortening, beat well, then 
add other ingredients, stirring in at the last, the soda dis- 
solved in 3 tablespoons hot water. This is an easy and very 
satisfactory recipe. Follow directions given for baking Ideal 
Gingerbread. 

Ideal Gingerbread. 

1 cup Crisco 2 eggs 

1 cup sugar 2 teaspoons ginger 

2 cups molasses 1 teaspoon cinnamon 
1 cup milk 1 teaspoon soda 

3 cups flour 

Cream butter and sugar, add molasses, beat the eggs, 
and add to milk; combine mixtures, add flour sifted, with 
spices, lastly the soda dissolved in a little hot water. Bake 
in a moderate oven for forty minutes in a shallow pan, or gem 
pans thirty minutes. Do not remove from pan until cold. 

Raisin Gingerbread. 

Mix by one of preceding recipes, adding before the flour, 
y2 cup seeded raisins cut in half. Currants may be used in- 
stead of raisins, or both, if desired. It will not be necessary 



CAKE fflO 

to flour the fruit, if it is beaten into the batter before the flour 
goes in. 

Washington Pie. 

Use recipe for Drexel Layer Cake and bake in deep pans. 
When cold split and put together with 

Cream Filling. 

2 eggs */i cup sugar 

2 cups milk Pinch of salt 

1 tablespoon flour Vanilla 

Mix sugar and flour together, scald milk, add slowly to 
eggs slightly beaten and pour over dry ingredients. Add salt. 
Cook 15 minutes in double boiler, stirring constantly until it 
thickens, occasionally afterwards. 1*4 squares Baker's choco- 
late may be added if desired. Melt over hot water, add 1 
tablespoon sugar and stir into the custard. Sift powdered 
sugar over the pie. 

Poverty Cake. 

]4. cup molasses 1 teaspoon soda, dissolved in 

yi cup sugar yi cup cold water 

1 egg 1 teaspoon ginger 

2 tablespoons melted butter 1 teaspoon cinnamon 

\yi cups flour, sifted 

Cream molasses, sugar and butter, add beaten egg and 
beat thoroughly, then add other ingredients, the soda last. 
Bake in shallow pan about 30 minutes. And Marion Har- 
land whose recipe this is, adds: "Good in spite of its name." 



Nuggets. 

% cup butter 2 teaspoons baking powder 

1 cup sugar Yolks 2 eggs 

StyZ cups flour 1 cup milk 

Juice and grated rind of 1 lemon 

Cream butter and sugar, add eggs well beaten, flour, 
sifted with baking powder, alternately with the milk, and the 
lemon juice and rind. Bake in gem pans, in a hot oven 20 
minutes, or until they shrink from the pan. Cover with Orange 
Icing. 



260 WHAT AND HOW 



Ginger Gems. 

1 cup butter and lard mixed, 2 cups molasses 

or Crisco 1 cup sour milk 

y* cup brown sugar 1 tablespoon gi nger 

3 eggs 1 teaspoon cinnamon 

4 cups sifted flour 1 teaspoon soda 

Beat eggs separately, dissolve soda in 1 tablespoon hot 
water. Cream butter and sugar, add molasses, milk and spices 
beat thoroughly. Add yolks of eggs and half the flour, fold in 
the whites, add soda, sifted with the remainder of flour. Bake 
in well greased gem pans in a moderate oven for y 2 hour. If 
sour milk is not convenient, sweet may be used. Cover with 
boiled Icing, or Chocolate Icing. 

Chocolate Sponge Cakes. 

yi cup butter 1 teaspoon cinnamon 

% cup cocoa yi teaspoon cloves 

3 eggs yi cup cold water 

1 cup sugar 1 cup flour 

2 teaspoons baking powder 

Cream butter, add cocoa and yolks of eggs well beaten, 
sugar mixed with cinnamon and cloves, and water. Add stiffly 
whipped whites of eggs alternately with flour and baking 
powder sifted together. Bake in gem pans 20 minutes — Miss 
Farmar. 

Sponge Cakes. 

Make by recipe for sponge cake and bake in gem pans. 
Ice half with Orange Icing and the rest with Chocolate Icing. 

Spice Cakes. 

Using recipe for Quick Cake, omit fruit and nutmeg. Add 
1 teaspoon ginger and % teaspoon cloves. Bake in gem pans 
and cover with Chocolate Icing. 

Cocoa Buns. 

1 cup butter }4 cup cocoa 
\y£ cups sugar 1 cup milk 

2 cups flour, sifted with 2 eggs 

1 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon vanilla 

Cream butter and sugar, add eggs beaten and the cocoa. 
Mix well, add milk and flour alternately, and vanilla. Bake 



CAKE 261 



in well greased gem pans. These may be iced with Choco- 
late Icing and half an English walnut placed on top. 

Derrys. 

14 cup milk 2 cups flour, sifted with 

2 eggs 2 teaspoons baking powder 

1 cup sugar 1 cup black walnut meats, chopped 

yi cup butter x /i cup seeded raisins, chopped 

Cream butter and sugar, add yolks of eggs beaten, and 
milk. Put raisins and nuts through meat chopper, and stir 
into the batter. Lastly fold in the flour and bake in gem pans, 
well greased. When cold, cover with Orange Icing, using 
the whites of the eggs. 

Strawberry Short Cake I. 

Make a plain layer cake and bake in shallow pans. Wash 
and cap 1 quart berries, mash half of them, sprinkle with 
sugar and let them stand 1 hour. If the cake layers are very 
thin, cover each with the mashed berries and put together as 
layer cake. Cover with a meringue made of the beaten whites 
of 3 eggs and 2 tablespoons powdered sugar and brown slightly. 
If the layers of cake are thick, split them, spread each layer with 
the crushed berries. After the meringue browns, decorate 
the cake with the whole berries and sprinkle with powdered 
sugar. 

Strawberry Short Cake II. 

Make a sponge cake by recipe on page 253, and bake 
in a ring mould or turk's head. When cold, fill the centre 
with alternate layers of strawberries and sweetened whipped 
cream, and arrange a ring, outside the cake, of the cream dotted 
with berries. 

Strawberry Short Cake III. 

Mix 2 cups flour, % cup sugar, 2 teaspoons baking pow- 
der and 4 gratings of nutmeg, sift twice, and with the tips of 
fingers, work in yi cup butter or butter substitute. Beat 1 
egg until very light, and add y^ cup milk. Stir this into the 
flour mixture, and roll out on a well floured board. Cut with 
a large biscuit cutter and bake in a hot oven. Sprinkle straw- 
berries with sugar and heat through. Mash with a fork. Split 



WHAT AND HOW 



each short cake while hot, butter it and spread with the crush- 
ed berries on one side, covering with the other. Spread a 
layer of the berries on top, and serve with plenty of cream, or 
with whipped cream sauce. These should be served hot. 

COOKIES AND JUMBLES. 
Molasses Cookies. 

1 cup molasses 2 cups flour 

yi cup butter substitute yi tablespoon ginger 

yi teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon soda 

Heat molasses and shortening until latter is melted, add 
ginger and remove from fire. Dissolve soda in 2 tablespoons 
hot water, stir into mixture. Now add flour and salt sifted, 
and drop from a teaspoon into a shallow pan far enough apart 
to allow for spreading. This recipe makes 35 cookies. Or, 
use baking sheets, which are far superior to pans for baking 
cookies, etc. Consult time table for baking cookies and jumbles. 

Christmas Cookies. 

]4 cup butter 1 cup sugar 

1 egg X A cup of milk 

S}4 cups flour 3 teaspoons baking powder 

Cream butter and sugar, add egg beaten. Sift flour and 
baking powder. Add alternately with milk. Roll out and cut. 
Put two together with the following 

Mixture. 

1 cup seeded raisins, chopped yi cup nuts chopped 

}4 cup water 1 teaspoon flour, mixed with raisins 

Cook all together for 5 minutes and cool. 
Nuts and Raisins Cookies. 

1 cup butter and lard mixed >£ cup sour cream 
Xyi cups sugar 1 teaspoon soda, level 

2 eggs 2K cups Quaker Oats 
1 cup chopped English walnuts <L% cups flour 

1 cup chopped seeded raisins i tablespoons vanilla 

Cream shortening and sugar, add eggs unbeaten; beat 
until very light, using the cake mixer if you have it. Dissolve 



COOKIES 268 



the soda in the cream, add it and other ingredients, the 
nuts and raisins before the flour. Change the beater for the 
kneader in the cake mixer, and work the mixture until smooth. 
Drop, by the half teaspoonful, on to baking sheets an inch 
apart and bake in a moderate oven until brown; it should take 
about 10 minutes. 

Minquedale Cookies. 

1 cup butter 3 eggs 

tyi cups sugar 1 cup sour cream 

7 cups flour 1 teaspoon soda 

1 teaspoon cinnamon 

Sift flour and cinnamon, cream butter and sugar. Beat 
eggs very light. Dissolve soda in cream when you are ready 
to use it, not before. Add eggs to creamed butter and sugar, 
part of the flour, the cream and soda, and then the remainder 
of flour, mixing all together well. Roll out dough as soft as 
possible, cut in fancy shapes and bake in quick oven. 

Sand Tarts. 

1 cup butter Yolks 3 eggs 

2 cups sugar 3 cups of flour, sifted with 

2 tablespoons milk \}i teaspoons baking powder 

Cream butter and sugar, add eggs beaten light, milk 
and flour with the baking powder. This should be stiff enough 
to roll out, but as there is a great difference in flour it may be 
necessary to add a little more. Roll thin, cut with a square 
cutter. Before cutting out, brush over with the beaten white 
of an egg and sprinkle with granulated sugar, the coarser the 
better. On each cake press 2 halves of almonds previously 
blanched. Bake in hot oven. 



Peanut Cookies. 

1 cup butter 1 cup peanuts, crushed in meat 

\ x /i cups powdered sugar chopper 

3 eggs 3 cups flour 

Cream butter and sugar, add eggs beaten light, then flour 
and peanuts mixed together. Drop by spoonfuls on baking 
sheet and pat with the hands to flatten out. Grate a little 



264 WHAT AND HOW 



nutmeg on each cake and bake in hot oven. Dough should 
be just stiff enough to handle easily. See time table for baking 
cookies. 

Almond Rings. 

1 cup butter 3 eggs 

2 cups sugar 4 cups flour 

yi lb. almonds, blanched 1 teaspoon baking powder 
Cinnamon 

Cream butter and sugar, beat eggs, reserving the whites 
of 2 of them, and add to the butter and sugar. Sift 3 cups 
of the flour with the baking powder, using the remainder for 
rolling out the cakes. Fold in the sifted flour, roll out very- 
thin, and cut with a cruller cutter which makes the rings. 
Brush over with the slightly beaten whites of eggs, put three 
or four almond halves on each ring, brush again with egg and 
sprinkle with granulated sugar and cinnamon; bake in hot 
oven 10 minutes. This recipe makes about 130 rings. Like 
crackers, cookies when stale may be freshened if put for a 
minute or two into the oven. Gather up the small circles 
and roll out to cut again. 

Jackson Jumbles. 

1 cup butter 3 cups sugar 

K cup milk 2 eggs 

5 cups flour 1 level teaspoon soda 

Cream butter and sugar, add eggs beaten, milk and flour 
sifted with the soda. Flavor with 1 teaspoon Rose Water and 
X teaspoon grated nutmeg. Roll out very thin and sprinkle 
with granulated sugar. Pat the sugar in with the rolling pin. 
Bake in a quick oven. 

Macaroons. 

Whites 3 eggs ^ lb. powdered sugar 

>£ lb. almond paste 

Beat eggs and sugar together until very light and stiff, 
powder the almond paste, and stir into the mixture; when 
smooth, drop on to baking sheet, or buttered paper. Bake in 
a slow oven for 15 minutes. Macaroon powder may be used 
instead of the paste. It is already sweetened and requires only 
to be mixed with the egg whites. 



COOKIES 265 



Boston Cookies. 

% lb. butter }4 cup Sultana raisins 

\yi cups sugar 1 teaspoon soda 

3 eggs 2 teaspoons hot water 

y 2 teaspoon salt <&/i cups flour 

1 cup chopped nuts 1 teaspoon cinnamon 

]/2 cup currants 

Cream butter and sugar, add eggs well beaten, fruit and 
nuts. Sift flour, cinnamon and salt, and beat into the batter, 
lastly add soda dissolved in the hot water. Drop by tea- 
spoonful on to baking sheet, allowing room to spread. Bake 
in moderate oven. 

Ginger Snaps. 

1 cup brown sugar % teaspoon salt 

1 cup molasses 1 teaspoon ginger 

1 cup Crisco 1 teaspoon cinnamon 

1 egg Flour enough to roll out 

1 teaspoon soda, dissolved in hot water 

Mix until too stiff for spoon, work with hands until smooth. 
Roll out, cut and bake on baking sheet. 

Oatmeal Wafers. 

1 tablespoon butter 2 eggs, beaten 

1 cup sugar % x /l cups Quaker Oats 

2 teaspoons baking powder 

Cream butter and sugar, add eggs and Quaker oats mixed 
with baking powder. The mixture will appear very stiff, but 
will spread in the baking. Drop by the half teaspoon on baking 
sheet 2 inches apart, and bake in moderate oven 10 minutes. 
Do not allow them to become too brown, and remove while 
hot, with a broad knife or cake turner. 

Ringle Roses. 

2 cups sugar Yolks 5 eggs beaten light 

6 tablespoons butter y^ cup milk 

1 teaspoon baking powder 4 cups pastry flour 

Reserve part of flour for rolling out, sift remainder with 
baking powder. Cream sugar and butter, add eggs and milk, 
and fold in the flour. Roll out very thin and cut with a scal- 
loped cutter. Dip the butter brush into cold water, touch the 
centre of each cake with it, and sprinkle the wet place with 



WHAT AND HOW 



cinnamon and granulated sugar mixed together. Bake 15 

minutes, or until done, in moderate oven Use the whites of 

eggs for White Mountain cake, or meringues for pudding or 

custard. 

Brandywine Cookies. 

From a recipe book over 100 years old. 

1 cup butter 2 cups sugar 

8 eggs 2 cups flour 

}4 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon nutmeg 

Cream butter and sugar, add eggs beaten light, flour, 
baking powder, and nutmeg sifted together. Roll out, cut and 
bake as other cookies. You may need more flour, but keep 
dough soft. It is needless to say that the original of this recipe 
did not call for baking powder. In those days they used potash. 

Soft Ginger Cakes. 

$4 cup sugar 2 eggs 

Y*, cup Crisco 2 teaspoons ginger 

1 cup molasses 2 teaspoons cinnamon 

1 cup milk 1}4 cups flour 

1 teaspoon vinegar 1 teaspoon soda 

Dissolve soda in vinegar. Cream sugar and Crisco, add 
all other ingredients, the soda last, and beat hard. Drop from 
a spoon on a baking sheet, allowing plenty of room to spread. 

Scotch Cakes. 

}4 cup Crisco 1 cup brown sugar 

1 cup molasses ]/i teaspoon allspice 

1 teaspoon cinnamon \}4 cups flour 

1 teaspoon (level) soda 

Cream Crisco and sugar. Sift all dry ingredients. Add 
molasses to Crisco and sugar, dry ingredients last. Drop from 
a spoon on a baking sheet and bake in a hot oven. Allow 
plenty of room for spreading. 



267 



CHAPTER XXIII 



ICINGS AND FILLINGS. 
Cocoa Icing. 

4 tablespoons Hershey's Cocoa 1 lb. Confectioner's sugar 

1 teaspoon butter 1 teaspoon vanilla 

Make a paste of cocoa, wet with boiling water, add sugar, 
butter and vanilla. 

Orange Icing. 

To the juice of an orange, add enough confectioner's 
sugar to make it the right consistency to spread. It should 
be thick enough to spread without running, but not so thick 
as to be sugary. Confectioner's sugar is XXXX, powdered 
sugar is XXX. 

Boiled Icing. 

Make a syrup of 1 cup sugar and ]/2 cup water, boiled 
without stirring until it threads. Pour gradually over beaten 
whites of 2 eggs and continue beating until it begins to thicken, 
add juice of ]/2 lemon, yi teaspoon vanilla or y^ teaspoon bitter 
almond and beat until thick enough to spread without running. 
If it is too thin after it is cold, set the bowl over boiling water 
on the stove and beat constantly until it thickens. 

Chocolate Icing I. 

Make according to recipe for Boiled Icing, adding \}4 
squares chocolate melted over hot water. 

Chocolate Icing II. 

Melt 4 squares chocolate in double boiler, add 2 table- 
spoons milk and stir. Beat 1 egg and 1 cup sugar together, 
add to the chocolate and stir until sugar is melted. Flavor with 
vanilla. 

Maple Sugar Icing. 

Make Boiled Icing, flavor with Mapleine. 



268 WHAT AND HOW 



Coffee Icing. 

Flavor Boiled Icing with strong coffee infusion, reducing 
quantity of water. Use X cup of each, and cook with the 
sugar. 

Chocolate Filling I. 

2 squares chocolate 8 tablespoons hot water 

}4 teaspoon butter Confectioner's sugar 

yi teaspoon vanilla 

Melt chocolate over hot water, add butter and water, 

remove from fire and stir in confectioner's sugar until it is 

thick enough to spread; flavor, put between layers and on 

top of cake. 

Pink Icing. 

2 tablespoons hot water Confectioner's sugar 

Rose water, or vanilla Pink sugar 

Stir into the water enough white sugar to thicken slight- 
ly; add pink sugar and white alternately until the color is 
satisfactory and the icing a thick paste. Flavor. Pink sugar 
may be purchased at a confectioner's. 

Plain White Icing. 

Make according to preceding recipe, using only white 
sugar. 

Tutti Fruitti Filling. 

4 tablespoons water X CU P currants, chopped 

1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon chopped lemon peel, 

White 1 egg candied 

yi cup nuts, chopped 1 teaspoon chopped orange peel, 

]4 cup seeded raisins, chopped candied 

1 tablespoon chopped citron 

Boil sugar and water without stirring until it spins a 
thread, pour it over the beaten egg white, adding gradually 
and beating constantly. Have fruit and nuts well mixed, and 
stir into the creamy mixture. Spread between layers of cake 
and over the top. 

Orange Filling. 

Whites 1 eggs 1 cup confectioner's sugar XXXX. 

Juice 1 orange and }4 the peel grated 

Beat egg whites stiff and dry, adding the sugar gradually 
while beating; add juice and grated peel. When soft and 
creamy spread between layers of cake and over the top. 



269 



CHAPTER XXIV 

CANDY. 

Years ago two books were published that were invaluable 
authority each upon its own subject. 

Catherine Owens was the author, and her name deserves 
to live through at least another generation for her "Ten Dol- 
lars Enough" and her "Lessons in Candy Making." The 
problem of living on ten dollars a week was very success- 
fully solved by the young married couple to whom we are 
introduced, and many of the recipes in "What and How" that 
have been in constant use in my classes and my own home 
are taken from that little book. There has never been writ- 
ten anything upon candy making to equal Catherine Owens' 
directions, and if the book is not out of print, I would sug- 
gest that every one interested in the subject should own a copy 

• 

Fondant. 

1 pint of sugar 1 cup water 

Boil without stirring until a thread spins from a fork, 
then try a little in cold-water, if it makes a soft ball when 
rolled together, remove from fire. When cool enough to handle 
stir with a wooden spoon or wooden spatula until it is too stiff 
to work, then take your hands and knead like bread dough. 
This makes a small quantity and is intended for the trial of a 
novice. An experienced candy maker may use three times the 
recipe given, adding a pinch of cream of tartar to prevent 
granulating of the sugar. Fondant will keep a long time, if 
covered with waxed paper to exclude the air. It is the founda- 
tion, as its name implies, of all cream candies, and is to be 
flavored as needed. 

Maple Fondant. 

Flavor fondant with Mapleine, a drop at a time, until it 
tastes just right. Add flavoring when beginning to stir with 
spatula. 



S70 WHAT AND HOW 



Coffee Fondant. 

Make very strong coffee infusion to flavor fondant as 
described; avoid adding much liquid of any kind. 

Colored Fondant. 

Color fondant either red or green with few drops coloring 
liquid purchased from a reliable druggist 

Cream Mints. 

Melt fondant over water, flavor with oil of peppermint. 
It is very strong, use it cautiously. Drop from a spoon on 
tin baking sheet; if it is waxed for baking, the mints will not 
stick. If a dish is used, it must have a sheet of waxed paper 
spread smoothly over it. 

Mint Marshmallows. 

1 tablespoons hot water Confectioner's sugar 

Spearmint water Green coloring 

Stir into the hot water enough confectioner's sugar to 
make a paste as for icing. Flavor to taste with spearmint 
water and color a pale green color. Cover marshmallows with 
this icing. 

Peppermint Drops. 

Melt 3 cups fine granulated sugar with just enough water 
to moisten it. Boil 5 minutes, add % teaspoon cream of tar- 
tar, remove from fire and beat hard. Add while beating % 
teaspoon oil of peppermint, and continue beating until it 
whitens. Drop quickly on the baking sheet. It will be neces- 
sary to have some one help in the dropping, so that it may 
be accomplished before the mixture hardens. Should it do so 
before it is all dropped, add a little water and boil 1 minute. 
Beat as before, and continue the dropping. — "White House 
Cook Book." 

Uncooked Fondant. 

Stir into the unbeaten white of 1 egg mixed with 1 table- 
spoon cold water, enough confectioner's sugar (XXXX) to 
stiffen sufficiently to be shaped by the hands. Flavor with 
vanilla, coffee, Mapleine, or extract bitter almond. 



CANDY 271 



Cream Walnuts. 

Roll a ball of uncooked fondant, and press on each side, 
a half English walnut. Press together until a ring of fondant 
surrounds the walnuts. 

Nut Creams. 

While adding the sugar to the egg for Uncooked Fon- 
dant, add chopped nuts, cocoanut grated, or chopped citron, 
and shape into balls or squares. 

Pink Fondant. 

Procure a small quantity of pink sugar and use enough 
to color the fondant a good shade of pink. This is pretty 
with cocoanut stirred in and rolled into balls. 

Date Creams I. 

Remove the stones from well washed dates, and replace 
with a ball of fondant. Roll in granulated sugar. Use fon- 
dant either cooked or uncooked. 

Date Creams II. 

Wash dates, remove stones and dry between two towels. 
Cover blanched almonds with fondant, put into the dates and 
roll in granulated sugar. Peanuts, pecans or chestnuts may 
be used instead of almonds, and the fondant may be varied 
in color and flavoring. 

Vinegar Candy. 

3 cups white sugar \}4 cups clear vinegar 

Mix sugar and vinegar, heat slowly to the boil, and cook 
steadily but not too fast until it ropes from the spoon. This 
is just 2 degrees hotter than the thread. Turn out on large 
plates well buttered. When it is cool enough to handle, pull 
it with the tips of your fingers. It can be pulled into beauti- 
ful white and porous candy. This recipe came from a very 
old book of Marion Harland's. She adds to the recipe : "Those 
who have read Sophie May's delightful 'Little Prudy" and 
'Dottie Dimple' stories will remember this famous vinegar 
candy." 



%t% WHATANDHOW 



Taffy. 

2 cups granulated sugar % teaspoon cream of tartar 

1 cup water 1 teaspoon vanilla 

Cook sugar and water together until sugar dissolves. 
Add cream of tartar, dissolved in a little water, and continue 
to boil until it hardens when dropped into cold water. Re- 
move from fire, add flavoring, and turn into greased pans. 
Mark into squares as it cools. The thinner it is, the better. 

Butter Scotch. 

1 cup brown sugar % lb. butter 

y£ teaspoon lemon juice 

Boil 10 minutes or until it will crisp when a little is drop- 
ped into cold water. Pour into well-greased pans to cool. 

Molasses Taffy. 

Boil 2 cups molasses 20 minutes, add yi teaspoon soda 
and boil 15 minutes longer, or until a little dropped into cold 
water will harden. Stir constantly, as it will burn easily. Add 
1 teaspoon vinegar and pour into buttered dishes to harden. 

Peanut Brittle. 

2 cups granulated sugar. 1 cup chopped peanuts 

Shell 1 quart peanuts, and put through the meat chopper. 
Put the sugar into an iron or aluminum frying pan, and stir 
until it melts into a syrup. Remove from the fire, add nuts 
and pour at once on a baking sheet, just as thin a layer as 
you can make it. Do not cook the sugar an instant after it 
melts, or it will granulate. Do not be discouraged if the sugar 
looks lumpy during the process of melting. It will come out 
all right. Do not attempt to make more than this quantity 
at a time. If more is desired, start over again for a second lot. 

Nut Molasses Candy. 

Use recipe for molasses taffy; when taffy is done, take 
from the stove, stir in peanuts whole or in , halves, chopped 
walnuts or any nuts you wish. Put on baking sheet and mark 
into squares before it gets cold. 



CANDY >?S 



Candied Almonds. 

Blanch desired quantity of almonds (see Chapter 1). 
Boil 1 cup brown sugar and X cup water together until it 
spins a thread. Wipe almonds dry between two towels, and 
brown them, a few at a time in the syrup. Serve as candy at 
luncheon or dinner. 

Fudge I. 

4 cups sugar 2 cups milk 

6 tablespoons cocoa 20 marshmallows 

Boil first three ingredients until a soft ball forms when a 
little is dropped into cold water. Add marshmallows and re- 
move from stove. Beat until cold, pour into buttered tins and 
mark in squares before it hardens. 

Fudge II. 

3 cups granulated sugar yi tablespoon butter 

1 cup brown sugar ^ lb. chocolate 

2 cups milk 1 teaspoon vanilla 

Use a pan with a flat bottom, in order to have a large 
surface exposed to the heat, and to avoid depth of material 
to be cooked. This is of great advantage in the making of 
candy. 

Break chocolate into small pieces, and mix all ingred- 
ients except vanilla. Boil, stirring constantly until a little 
dropped into cold water will form a soft ball. Remove from 
fire, add vanilla and beat until cool and granular around the 
edge of pan. Pour into buttered tins before it hardens too 
much to smooth over, and mark into squares. 

If fudge is cooked too long it will be too stiff; remove 
from fire as soon as the ball will hold together in the water; 
a wooden spoon is the best beater for it. If beaten too long, 
it will not be glazed nor have a smooth surface. 

Bryn Mawr Penutchie. 

4 cups brown sugar % lb. pecan nuts 

1 cup milk 2 tablespoons butter 

Shell the nuts, there should be 1 cup. Melt the sugar 
and butter in the milk, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Boil, 



274 WHATANDHOW 



without stirring, until it will form a soft ball when dropped 
into cold water. Add the nuts, broken into pieces, and stir 
until it begins to thicken. Pour into greased tins and mark 
into squares with a knife. 

Maple Penutchie. 

Follow preceding recipe, substituting for the pecans, 1 
cup English or black walnut meats, and flavoring with Maple- 
ine. 

Pecan Pralines. 

1 lb. brown sugar 1 tablespoon butter 

yi lb. pecan meats, broken into bits 4 tablespoons water 

Boil sugar and water until the syrup spins a thread. Do 
not stir while boiling ; add nuts and stir until it begins to thicken 
and turn sugary. Turn out on buttered plates. One pound 
nuts in the shell will make y 2 pound when shelled. — "Picayune 
Cook Book." 

Tic-Tac. 

1 cup granulated sugar 3 tablespoons water 

1 tablespoon butter 3 quarts popped corn 

Boil sugar, water and butter together, until it ropes from 
the spoon; add the popcorn and stir until every kernel is coated 
with the syrup. Continue stirring until it cools. Make into 
balls before the syrup hardens, or if you choose, into squares 
or bars. Wrap in paraffine paper. 

Caramels. 

2 cups granulated sugar )/$ pound chocolate 

1 cup milk or cream 

Boil sugar and milk together, stirring until sugar is dis- 
solved. Grate chocolate, or shave it down with a knife, add 
to boiling mixture and stir constantly until it forms a soft 
ball when dropped into cold water. Pour into greased pans 
to harden. This is the "fudge" of a generation ago, and may 
be familiar to the mothers of the college girls of today. 



275 



CHAPTER XXV 



CHAFING DISH. 
Sauce. 

1 tablespoon butter 1 cup cream 

1 tablespoon flour Yolks of 2 hard boiled eggs 

]/2 tablespoon lemon juice % teaspoon kitchen bouquet 

Salt and pepper 

Make a white sauce of the butter, flour and cream, fol- 
lowing directions given in Chapter IX. 

Reserve part of the cream to rub with the eggs into a 
smooth paste; add this to the sauce with the seasonings. 
This makes an admirable sauce for use in preparing fish, 
chicken, potatoes, cheese, etc., in the chafing dish. The yolks 
must be absolutely smooth, the smallest lump will detract 
from the delicacy of the sauce. 

A knowledge of sauces, their preparation and seasoning 
is quite essential to successful chafing dish cookery. An- 
other important point is to have everything ready to work 
with, measured so far as possible, so that the operation may 
be expeditious. Many chafing dish parties have become more 
tedious than enjoyable on account of slow cookery caused by 
a lack of intelligent planning. One word of warning: If the 
spirit lamp should flare up and catch fire, use flour, which 
you would probably have close at hand, to smother the flame. 
On no account should you use water, which tends to spread 
the fire. 

Creamed Chicken. 

Open a small can of Richardson and Robbins' boned 
chicken, separate the pieces and cut into neat dice or strips. 
Do this an hour or more before you intend to use it. Make the 
chafing dish sauce as directed above, stir the chicken into it and 
cook just long enough to heat thoroughly. Do not spoil the dish 
by long cooking. 

Creamed Lobster. 

Open a can of lobster and allow it to aerate as described 
for the chicken. Proceed according to preceding rcipe. 



276 WHAT AND HOW 



Oysters, crab meat, cold boiled fish, hard boiled eggs in 
slices or chopped, mushrooms (canned), shrimp, or fish roe, 
all may be served from the chafing dish, with this sauce or 
any other good sauce; a suggestion for Thursday night supper. 
The maid might leave everything ready before she goes out. 

Welsh Rabbit I. 

1 lb. cheese, cut in small pieces yi tablespoon Worcestershire 

1 cup milk sauce 

yi tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon tomato catsup 

4 slices toast ^ teaspoon paprika 

yi teaspoon mustard 

Melt butter, add cheese, and when melted, the milk. 
Have all the seasonings mixed in a cup and stir in. Do not 
cook too long or cheese will become stringy. Serve on toast. 

Welsh Rabbit II. 

yi tablespoon butter yi teaspoon mustard 

yi lb. cheese, cut in small pieces Dash cayenne 

1 teaspoon corn starch J^" cup milk 

Melt the butter, add corn starch and stir until well mixed, 
then add milk, stir vigorously and cook 2 minutes. Add cheese, 
and stir until it melts. Add seasonings and serve on crisp 
crackers. 

English Monkey. 

1 cup stale bread crumbs yi cup cheese, cut small 

1 cup milk 1 egg 

yi tablespoon butter ^ teaspoon salt 

Dash of cayenne 

Soak crumbs in the milk 15 minutes. Melt butter, add 
cheese and stir until it is melted. Add soaked crumbs, sea- 
sonings and egg slightly beaten. Cook 3 minutes, and pour 
over toasted crackers. — Miss Far mar. 

Scotch Woodcock. 

4 eggs, hard boiled and chopped 1 tablespoon flour 

1 cup milk Salt 

\yi tablespoons butter Dash cayenne 

Anchovy essence or paste 

Chop eggs. Make white sauce of butter, flour and milk. 
Add seasonings and eggs. If anchovy is not liked, use 1 tea- 
spoon Worcestershire sauce. Serve on crackers. 



CHAFING DISH 277 



Angel Dreams. 

2 tablespoons butter French mustard 

6 slices bread, 1 inch wide and K lb. cheese, cut in very thin 

3 inches long slices 

Cayenne 

Spread the bread very sparingly with mustard, cover with 
cheese slices, sprinkle lightly with salt and cayenne. Melt 
the butter and when boiling, lay the bread in it, fry until bread 
is crisp and cheese melted. Of course the cheese side of the 
bread is up. 

Sardines Grilled. 

Use the boned and skinned sardines if possible. They 
are expensive, but much more dainty and delicate. Fry in 
a small quantity of butter and 1 teaspoon lemon juice. Or, 
they may be grilled (or fried) in their own oil. Serve onjiarrow 
strips of toast the length of the sardine. 

Suggestions for Chafing Dish. 

Scattered all through this book will be found recipes 
suitable for chafing dish cookery, and a list of these is ap- 
pended. It is offered as a convenience and suggestion, and 
the writer hopes will prove useful as such. 



Fish. 



Lobster a la Newburg Oysters, creamed 

Crab a la Newburg Oysters, stewed 

Smelts, fried Oysters, panned 

Fish roe Clams, minced in chafing dish 

Salmon, creamed sauce 

Soft shell crabs Terrapin 



Eggs. 



Scrambled A la Newburg 

Fried Club 

Fried with bacon Spanish 
Omelets 



Meat. 



Chipped ham, cream gravy Veal, cream mince 

Frizzled beef Kidneys, lamb 

Chicken, creamed Sweet breads 

Turkey mince Calf's liver and bacon 

Chicken livers Liver terrapin 



278 



WHAT AND HOW 



Potatoes. 



Creamed 
Lyonnaise 



Omelet 

In chafing dish sauce 



Peas. 



With cream sauce 



Corn, 



Stewed 



Fried 



Miscellaneous. 



Spanish tomatoes 
Mushrooms, canned 
Mushrooms, fresh 



Celery toast 
Tomato toast 
Cream toast 



379 



CHAPTER XXVI 

FRUIT, FRESH, PRESERVED AND CANNED. 

In spite of advice from many quarters against washing 
berries before serving, no one, unless she picks her own fruit 
or sees that it is gathered by clean fingers, would care to eat 
it unwashed. The flavor may be impaired, as we are told 
it is, but better that than unclean fruit. Wash berries, a few 
at a time, drain in a colander and serve very cold. Berries 
may be put into air-tight jars, the lids screwed tightly on and 
kept for several days in the refrigerator. Do not wash these 
until ready for use. Even the raspberry, which so easily 
moulds, will be perfectly fresh after two days in the jar. Fruit 
that discolors by contact with the air after cutting, especially 
peaches, will keep a good color, if the dish containing them be 
placed in the refrigerator, and covered with a napkin wrung 
out of cold water. 

Bananas. 

Peel and slice. Put in layers in a glass dish, with a light 
sprinkling of sugar and yi. teaspoon lime juice between each 
layer. Cover with a wet napkin and chill for several hours in 
the refrigerator. Lemon juice may be used in place of lime 
juice, but the latter gives a very distinctive flavor. 

Berries. 

Do not sugar these in the dish, pass sugar with them. 
Large strawberries may be served, unhulled, arranged around 
a little mound of sugar on each plate. 

Cantelopes. 

Keep these for hours in the ice chest before serving. Ice 
may be served with them., but injures the flavor. Instead of 
the old way of cutting down through the cantelope, cut in half 
crosswise. If used for breakfast and kept over night in the ice 
chest, they will be thoroughly chilled. Do not cut until ready 
to serve. Larger muskmelons should be sliced, and one slice 
served to each person. 



280 WHATANDHOW 



Oranges. 

Oranges may be served whole, allowing each person to 
follow individual tastes in the eating; the daintiest way per- 
haps is to cut the orange in half crosswise, and the pulp in 
sections from the tough dividing lines, remove the latter, 
and return pulp and juice to the cup, each orange thus serving 
two persons, or both halves may be served on each plate if 
orange is small. Or, orange may be peeled whole, divided into 
sections, white skin and seeds removed, and the sections 
arranged around a mound of sugar on the plate. 

Grape Fruit. 

Cut fruit in half crosswise; separate pulp from skin around 
the circumference; with the scissors, cut the tough portion 
from each end, lift out the tough part, sprinkle the pulp with a 
generous amount of sugar, and serve very cold. This fruit, like 
cantelopes, may be kept over night in the ice chest, which is 
better than putting ice on it after it is cut, or serve on crushed 
ice. It may be flavored, if desired, with sherry. 

Peaches with Whipped Cream. 

Select very large, well flavored peaches, cut in half, re- 
move stones, and chill in ice chest for several hours, remem- 
bering to cover them with a damp cloth. Serve, filled with 
whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with a few drops 
extract of bitter almond. A glaced cherry or a maraschino 
cherry may be used as a decoration. 

Cherries, 

should be served with stems on, in a glass dish with cracked ice. 

Pears and Plums, 

should be washed and wiped dry Serve very cold. Grape 
leaves in the bowl or dish are a good decoration. 

Grapes. 

Wash well and shake dry. Serve in glass bowl with grape 
leaves. 



FRUIT, FRESH AND PRESERVED 281 



A Dish of Fruit, 

is improved in appearance if an orange or two have the peel 
cut down half way in sections and the points turned in. 
Bananas may be treated in the same way. Always polish the 
skins of apples, pears and plums, and decorate the bowl or 
dish with grape leaves or fresh green leaves of any kind. 

Fruit Compotes. 

Compotes are cooked fruits with syrup poured over 
them, this syrup having been cooked long enough after the 
fruit has been removed, to form a jelly as it cools. With 
care to keep the fruit of a good color and some little ingen- 
uity used in combinations and decorations, compotes are a 
delight to the eye as well as to the palate. When paring the 
fruit, drop it into cold water to prevent discoloration, do not 
put too many pieces into the syrup at one time; watch care- 
fully and remove with a skimmer the instant the pieces are 
tender, and discard any pieces that may become broken or 
shapeless. These may be used, of course, but not in the com- 
pote. With these rules in mind, a successful compote is easy 
of accomplishment. 

Syrup for Compotes. 

1 cup of sugar 1 cup water 

Bring slowly to the boiling point, drop in the fruit, cook 
it until easily pierced w r ith a wooden toothpick. Remove to 
the dish and let the syrup boil until it spins a thread. Use 
flavoring and coloring according to the recipes, and strain 
through cheese cloth or very fine hair sieve. Let the syrup 
boil steadily, but not too hard. 

Compote of Apples. 

Peel, core and quarter, ripe apples of good quality; or 
they may be cooked whole if not too large. Make enough 
syrup to cover the apples and cook them in it as described 
above. When the syrup is ready to strain, add a few r drops 
of red coloring and pour it through the strainer, over the fruit. 



282 WHAT AND HOW 



Compote of Whole Apples. 

If apples are cooked whole, fill the cavities left by the 
removal of the core, with jelly or orange marmalade before 
pouring the syrup over them. Serve with cream, plain or 
whipped. 

Slices of Lemon, 
cut as thin as paper, may be cooked in the syrup after the 
apples are removed; when clear, skim out, arrange among 
the apples and add the syrup. This is a decoration as well 
as a flavoring, and is to be used in the first recipe where the 
apples are cut. 

Green Gages. 

Wash and prick each plum three times. Simmer in the 
syrup until tender, and color the syrup with a few drops green 
coloring. 

Compote of Peaches. 
Pare, stone, cut in half or in slices, and follow directions 
in preceding recipes. Flavor syrup with a few drops bitter 
almond extract, adding it carefully that the flavor may not 
be too strong. 

Compote of Pears. 

Pare and cut in half Bartlett or some equally well 
flavored pears. Cook in the syrup until tender; remove with 
a skimmer. Add to the syrup a piece of green ginger root, 
and allow it to cook until the syrup is well flavored. If pears 
are not ripe cook until tender in water, before cooking in the 
syrup. 

Compote of Pineapple. 

Drain the syrup from 1 can sliced Hawaiian pineapple, 
add enough water to make 1 cup, add equal quantity of sugar 
and simmer until it threads. Put a slice on each serving plate, 
pour syrup over it; when cool and ready to serve, put a mound 
of whipped cream in the centre of each slice, and sprinkle over 
it crushed macaroons. Top off with a maraschino or candied 
cherry. With this pass a plate of macaroons. 



FRUIT, FRESH AND PRESERVED 28S 

Compote of Fruit, with Rice. 

Wash ^3 cup of rice and steam in double boiler with 1 
cup boiling water. When rice has absorbed the water, add 
1^2 cups hot milk, X cup sugar, and ]/2 teaspoon salt; cook 
until rice is soft. Butter a shallow bowl, and press the rice 
into it to shape in a mound, not too high. A small ring mould 
is good for this purpose. Turn out on a dish, arrange a peach 
compote in the centre if a ring mould was used; if not, stand 
the peaches around the base of the mound and pour syrup over 
all. Any fruit compote may be used with the rice, and if the 
syrup be colored, it enhances the appearance of the dish. Whip- 
ped cream may be piled in the centre of the ring and the fruit 
arranged outside. 

Baked Apples I. 

When apples are at their best, in the fall and winter, 
they need no flavoring when cooked, but in the spring they 
are tasteless and require cinnamon, nutmeg or lemon juice 
in addition to the sugar. Remove core, pushing the corer 
through from the blossom end which gives you the stem to pull 
it out with, fill cavity with sugar, add a small quantity of 
water, just enough to cover the bottom of baking dish and 
bake in a hot oven until tender, basting frequently with the 
syrup in the dish. Apples may be baked with skins on. or 
without skins if desired. In the latter case, if brown sugar 
and a little molasses be used to sweeten, the apples will have 
a glaze when baked, provided they are basted with the syrup 
frequently. 

Baked Apples II. 

Peel, quarter and remove seeds and core. Arrange on a 
pie plate, sprinkle with sugar, add very thin slices of lemon, 
sprinkle with water and bake as directed above. 

Baked Apples III. 

Select large apples and bake in round ramekins. Serve in 
ramekins 

Stewed Apples. 

Peel, cut into quarters and remove seeds. Put into sauce- 
pan, with enough water to cover them, and stew gently until 



284 WHATANDHOW 



they are tender, testing with wooden toothpick. Remove with 
a skimmer, add a cup of sugar to the water (of the latter there 
should be 1^2 cups), boil 20 minutes, pour over the apples and 
serve very cold. Flavor with lemon juice. 

Apple Sauce. 

Wash and cut into small pieces, rejecting any defective 
parts. Cook until tender in just enough water to keep them 
from burning. When boiled to a mush, rub through a colan- 
der, sweeten, and flavor with nutmeg or cinnamon. A few 
drops lemon juice and a grating or two of lemon peel make a 
good flavoring, used in conjunction with nutmeg. Or, 

Apples may be peeled, cored, and sliced, put into a double 
boiler and steamed until they can be beaten into a smooth 
sauce with a fork. A little butter is an improvement, added 
before the sugar. 

Dried Apples, 

make most excellent sauce, and may be used alone, or com- 
bined with an equal quantity of dried peaches. Soak over 
night, wash thoroughly and stew in small quantity of water 
until tender. Rub through a colander, and sweeten. Flavor 
with a pinch of cloves. 

Dried Peaches. 

Scrub each piece well, soak over night. Stew very slowly 
in water to cover until tender. Remove carefully with a skim- 
mer that pieces will not be broken. Make a syrup of 2 cups of 
the water in which the peaches were cooked, and 1 cup sugar, 
pour over the peaches and serve cold with cream. 

Stewed Rhubarb. 

Select small stalks of a good pink color, and scrub well. 
Cut into inch lengths, using scissors to avoid staining your 
hands. Put into a sauce pan, sprinkle generously with sugar, 
and put on the stove where it will heat slowly. Being large- 
ly composed of water, it needs none to cook it; if allowed to 
heat slowly sufficient is developed to make, with the sugar, 



FRUIT, FRESH AND PRESERVED 285 



a good syrup. If rhubarb is cooked in water to cover it until 
almost tender, it will take less sugar to sweeten it. Drain very 
dry and proceed as above. 

Prunes. 

Prunes require thorough washing. Examination under 
a microscope will convert any skeptic. Use a soft brush and 
scrub each one. If soaked for an hour in cold water, some 
of the wrinkles will smooth out, allowing the brush to reach 
the skin, but in this case use the brush gently as the skin is 
likely to break. Put prunes in saucepan, cover with warm 
water and allow them to simmer, but not boil. Allow them 
to remain in the hot water until entirely free from wrinkles 
when they will be tender and ready for use. This is an im- 
provement over the usual method of boiling prunes. They 
need no sugar. 

Raw Prunes. 

Buy a good quality stewing prunes, scrub and rinse. Cover 
with cold water and soak until wrinkles disappear. Spread 
out on a meat platter, after draining, and set aside to dry. Just 
as good for eating raw as the expensive prunes that come in jars. 

Cranberry Jelly I. 

Wash and pick over 1 quart cranberries. Cook in double 
boiler without any water except that which clings to them 
after washing. When berries are soft and can be readily mashed, 
put through a wire sieve. To each cup of juice, add 1 cup 
sugar; return to the fire just long enough to melt sugar, stirring 
all the time. Put into a mould which has been rinsed in cold 
water and set away to harden. 

Cranberry Jelly II. 

Wash and pick over the berries, put over the fire with 
1 cup water to 4 cups cranberries. When heated through 
and soft, rub through sieve or colander, and hang up in a jelly 
bag to drip. This will give you the pure juice without the 
pulp. Measure juice, boil 15 minutes, not too fast, add equal 
quantity sugar, heat to boiling point, skim; boil 1 minute 



WHAT AND HOW 



and mould. Prepared in this way the jelly will be very clear, 
but as much of the fruit is discarded, a quart of berries will 
make very little jelly; therefore unless a small quantity is 
wanted, cook 2 quarts berries. This jelly is especially pretty 
moulded in tiny glasses, one mould to be served to each person. 

Cranberry Sauce. 
Wash and pick over 1 quart cranberries. Add 1 cup 
water and stew until tender; do not break them. Sweeten 
to taste, cook 5 minutes, skim and cool. This is not intended 
for jelly, and will not be stiff enough to mould. 

Preserving Kettles. 

From the days of bell metal preserving kettles down to 
the present time of aluminum, there has been nothing to equal 
the enamel ware. It is light in weight, easy to keep clean, 
comes in convenient sizes and shapes, and in price is the most 
moderate. Aluminum kettles possess these qualifications as 
well, except the last. Maslin kettles have been in use for many 
years, but are too heavy to be convenient. Select a kettle with 
a large base and not very deep. Especially in the case of jams 
it is unwise to have much depth to the material being cooked; 
it takes more time to thicken as it should, and the longer it 
cooks the darker it grows in color. 

Fruit Press. 

A fruit press is a great help in the making of jellies and 
fruit juices. It saves time, extracts more juice, and the labor 
of preparing fruit for jelly is reduced at least one-half. The 
next best way to extract the juice is to heat and mash the 
fruit, and allow it to drip through a jelly bag. If one does 
not possess a fruit press, this method is entirely satisfactory. 
The bag must hang and drip over night. With the press, 15 
quarts of currants may be made into jelly in two hours' time. 

Jelly. 

There are two reasons for failure in jelly making. If 
the jelly does not "jell," and so often it does not, either the 



FRUIT, FRESH AND PRESERVED 887 



fruit has been too ripe, or the jelly has boiled hard after the 
sugar was added to the juice. If these directions and recipes 
are carefully studied and adhered to, I think I may safely 
predict successful jelly for my readers in the future. 

Jelly glasses must be clean and sterilized. To accom- 
plish this, stand glasses in pan of cold water, and fill each 
glass with cold water. Put on the stove, and bring gradu- 
ally to the boiling point; remove with a silver fork and drain 
dry. Stand them on a wet towel folded double, and fill with 
the hot jelly The towel will prevent breaking; it should be 
wrung out of cold water. When jelly is cold, cover with melted 
paraffine, and when firm, with the tin lid. 

Paraffine or Parowax 

is a safe covering for jellies, jam or marmalade; taking the 
place of the circles of paper dipped in brandy, which former- 
ly was quite the most tedious part of the whole work. Do 
not pour the melted wax over the glasses until their contents 
are cold and solid, and use enough wax to assure the cover- 
ing and solidity. When the wax is removed, wash it and put 
away for another time. It is a good plan to keep a saucepan 
on purpose, the wax is then ready for melting at any time. 



Currant Jelly. 

Select currants that show some green ones among the 
red, and buy the first ones that come to the market, provided 
they are not too green. It is the late jelly makers who are 
apt to fail. After extracting the juice, measure carefully, al- 
lowing 1 pound sugar to each pint of juice. Bring juice slow- 
ly to boiling point and boil 20 minutes. Let it boil steadily 
but not too hard, and do not interrupt the boiling once it 
starts. When you have accomplished this, pour in the sugar 
and stir it until it dissolves. Let it boil up once, skim and 
remove from the fire. Fill glasses to within l /2 inch of top, 
and when cool, fill up with paraffine. These directions apply 
to all jellies. 



288 WHAT AND HOW 



Currant and Raspberry Jelly. 

Follow directions given above, using Yi as many rasp- 
berries as currants. 

Apple Jelly. 

Bellflowers and summer pippins make the best jelly, 
though any kind of an apple not too sweet will do. For this, 
a jelly bag is necessary; it may be made of a double thick- 
ness of cheese cloth sewed in the shape of a cornucopia, or of 
flannel if preferred. 

Wash and cut the apples into small pieces, discarding 
only imperfections. The skins add flavor, the seeds help to 
form jelly; consequently let them remain with the fruit. Put 
into kettle with enough water to keep it from sticking, not 
over 1 quart. Cook until soft. Turn into jelly bag and hang 
up to drip over night. In the morning measure juice and 
porceed as directed for currant jelly. Do not squeeze the 
bag or the jelly will be cloudy, but rub the contents of the 
bag through a colander, sweeten and flavor for apple sauce. 

Crab Apple Jelly 

is made as apple jelly, using only 1 cup water to cook the fruit. 

Quince Jelly. 

Use parings and seeds from quinces when making mar- 
malade, with a little of the fruit. This makes beautiful jelly. 

Grape Jelly. 

Wild grapes, either chicken or fox variety, make the 
best jelly, and can be used either ripe or green. Wash, re- 
move from stems and put through fruit press, or heat in kettle 
without any water except what clings after washing. Mash 
as they heat, put into jelly bag and proceed as with apple jelly. 

Mint Jelly. 

When making apple jelly, take part of it when ready to 
put into glasses, color with a few drops of Pistache Green, 
and flavor with essence of spearmint. Put these two articles 



FRUIT, FRESH AND PRESERVED 28!) 



in carefully and in small quantities until you have just the 
right color and taste. 

This jelly may be made in the winter, of greening apples, 
and is attractive in appearance as well as a desirable accom- 
paniment to roast lamb, or bread and butter. 

Raspberry Jam. 

Jam requires ripe fruit, equal quantity of fruit and sugar, 
frequent stirring and long slow cooking. It must be thick 
when done, and to keep it from being too dark, it is advis- 
able to cook the fruit alone until the boiling point is reached, 
and add sugar slowly so that the heat will not be reduced 
too suddenly. Wash and weigh the raspberries., put them over 
the fire, mashing with a wooden pestle to start the juices. 
Stir with a wooden spoon until it begins to boil, add equal 
weight of sugar, and cook slowly, but steadily, until it be- 
gins to thicken, about an hour. Remember directions given, 
slow cooking, frequent stirring and not too much in the kettle. 
If quantity is very small, ^ hour may be long enough to cook. 
Select raspberries that are firm and a good color. 

Currant and Raspberry Jam. 

Currants and raspberries in equal quantities make a most 
delicious combination in jam. 

Green Gooseberry and Raspberry Jam. 

Two quarts green gooseberries, 1 quart raspberries. Mix 
and proceed as for raspberry jam. 

Blackberry Jam. 

Make by directions given for raspberry jam. 

Apple and Quince Marmalade. 

Wash, pare and cut into pieces equal quantities quinces 
and apples. Cook in small quantity of water until soft; rub 
through colander. Return to fire, measuring in cup. Add 
^i of its measure in sugar, cook slowly about 20 minutes, stir- 
ring frequently to prevent sticking or burning. Put into 



290 WHATANDHOW 



glasses and cover as previously directed. If the strong taste 
of the quince is not objectionable, use ^3 as many apples as 
quinces. 

Grape Fruit Marmalade I. 

Three or four large grape fruit will make a large quan- 
tity of marmalade. Cut grape fruit in half crosswise; with 
a sharp knife cut out centers and seeds. Going around the 
circumference of the fruit, cut the membrane loose from the 
skin. With the fingers lift out all the tough part. Put skin 
and pulp through the meat chopper, or if preferred, chop pulp 
only, and cut the peel into tiny thin slices, no thicker than 
a wooden toothpick. To each pint of fruit and peel meas- 
ured together, allow 3 pints cold water. Mix, and set aside 
for over night. The next day, put on the stove, and bring 
gradually to boiling point; cook steadily but not too fast for 
2 hours. When measuring, weigh out and set aside \}4 pounds 
sugar for each pint of fruit; when mixture has boiled 2 hours, 
add sugar and boil 1 hour longer. See directions given for cook- 
ing marmalade and putting into glasses. 

Grape Fruit Marmalade II. 

After preparing fruit as described above, cut peel into 
eight sections, cover with boiling water and cook slowly until 
soft; drain, and with a spoon scrape off white skin from peel, 
and then proceed by recipe for Grape Fruit Marmalade I; 
either chop peel with pulp, or cut it into shavings. For those 
objecting to the bitter taste which the white part of the peel 
gives to the marmalade, this recipe is specially given. 

Peach Marmalade. 

Peel and stone the peaches, dropping into cold water to 
prevent discoloration. Weigh; allow ^ pound sugar to each 
pound of fruit. Cook the fruit, mashing and stirring it until 
it is soft and smooth. Add sugar gradually and boil 15 min- 
utes. If the peaches are very ripe, they may be put through 
the potato press before cooking, which will ensure a smooth 
marmalade. Put into glasses and cover as directed. Should 



FRUIT, FRESH AND PRESERVED 291 



there be a large quantity of juice, remove part of it before 
adding the sugar. It will make fine jelly. 

Green Gage Marmalade 

is made by preceding recipe, except that the skin should not 
be removed from the gages, nor must it be mashed through 
the press. 

Pear Marmalade. 
For this you may use pears that are inferior and unfit 
for any other kind of preserving. Cut into pieces without 
paring, rejecting all imperfections, the seeds and core. Put 
through meat chopper or chop very fine with a knife; allow 
]/2 pound sugar to each pound of pears, and boil until it is 
thick. This is a very good marmalade, though made of hard 
and green fruit. 

Plum Conserve. 

5 lbs. damson plums 1 lb. seeded raisins 

5 lbs. sugar }4 lb. walnut meats 

4 oranges, juice and rind 

Put nuts and raisins through meat chopper, cut plums 
into small pieces, mix all together, add sugar and boil mixture 
45 minutes. Put into jelly glasses. 

Ginger Pears. 

8 lbs. fruit % lb. green ginger root 

6 lbs. sugar 1 cup water 

Juice of 4 lemons 

Peel, remove core and seeds, and cut up the pears, put 
through the meat chopper, or if preferred, you may slice in 
thin slices. Scrape the ginger root and slice very thin. This 
is laborious but the result fully repays for any amount of 
trouble. Put the sugar, water, and ginger root on the fire, 
and cook ten minutes without stirring. Add fruit, lemon 
juice and the rind of one lemon cut into bits. Cook slowly 
for an hour, put into sterilized glasses, and proceed as for 
marmalade. 

Orange Marmalade. 

Select sour, smooth skin oranges. Weigh and allow ^ 
of their weight in loaf sugar. Remove peel from oranges in 



WHAT AND HOW 



quarters. Cook this until soft, in enough water to cover; 
drain, remove white part from peel with a spoon, by scrap- 
ing it. Cut the thin yellow rind in strips, using scissors. This 
is more easily accomplished by cutting 3 pieces at a time. 

Divide oranges into sections, remove seeds and tough 
part of skin; heat to boiling point, add sugar gradually and 
cook slowly 1 hour. Add rind and cook 1 hour longer. When 
cool, put away in glasses covered with parowax. 

Preserved Strawberries. 

Cap, wash and weigh the fruit. Using equal quantity of 
sugar, put in layers in the kettle, sprinkling each layer well 
with the sugar. Set aside over night. In the morning bring 
very slowly to the boil and cook 5 minutes, or until you are 
sure the berries are hot through. Skim out the fruit, and 
allow the syrup to boil steadily for 20 minutes, in which time 
it should be thick. Skim thoroughly, return the berries to 
the syrup just long enough to heat through, fill jars $4 full 
and pour the hot syrup over them. Cool, and before putting 
parafline over them, press the berries under the syrup to keep 
them from touching the paramne. 

Strawberries Preserved in the Sun. 

After the berries have been sugared over night as di- 
rected in preceding recipe, heat very slowly until sugar is dis- 
solved. Cover the kettle with mosquito netting, and set in 
the sun. Keep the kettle in the full sunshine all day, put 
in a warm place over night, and return to the sunshine in the 
morning. When the juice is quite thick, fill jars and cover 
with paraffine. It usually takes three days of hot sun to thicken 
the juice. If cloudy skies interfere, skim out the berries and 
cook the syrup, proceeding as directed in preceding recipe. 

Whole Strawberry Preserves. 

Select the largest berries from the quantity to be pre- 
served, and set aside. If you want six jars of preserves, set 
aside enough berries to fill them. Put the smaller berries on 
the fire, mash thoroughly, and when very hot put into jelly 



FRUIT, FRESH AND PRESERVED 208 



bag to drip. Measure juice, allow 1 pound sugar to each pint 
of juice, and boil steadily but not hard, for 20 minutes, by 
which time it should begin to jelly. Weigh reserved berries, 
allow equal quantity of sugar, add sugar to jelly and sim- 
mer until dissolved. When boiling again, drop in the berries, 
allow them to heat through and remove at once from the fire. 
Skim well while the syrup is cooking and before adding the 
berries. Fill glasses, cool, and cover with paraffine. 



Peaches I. 

Pare, stone and weigh the fruit. Allow equal quantity 
of sugar, arrange in layers in kettle, heat very slowly and 
boil until fruit is clear and tender. Skim out the peaches 
and pack in jars. Remember to stand jars on towel wrung 
out of cold water to prevent breaking. Boil the syrup gently 
until it is thick, pour over the fruit, and when cool, cover. 



Peaches II. 

This recipe makes a medium between preserved and 
canned peaches, and is the best way I know for preserving 
the natural flavor of the fruit. Select the best flavored peach 
you can find; pare, stone, and weigh. Put the parings, with 
a few of the stones, cracked, on the fire, with enough water 
to cover them well, and boil hard for 10 minutes or more, 
Strain. Use this water to make a syrup with the sugar. Al- 
low ^2 pound sugar to each pound of fruit; when syrup is 
boiling gently, drop in a few pieces of peaches, about enough 
to fill a jar, and let them cook until clear and tender. (Test 
with a fine knitting needle.) Pack a jar, fill to overflowing 
with the boiling juice and screw the lid on tight. (See di- 
rections for canning.) Proceed as above, until all your fruit 
is cooked. If too many are put into the syrup at once, the 
pieces will cook too much and lose their shape. The peaches 
may be cut in half, or sliced thin. When sliced, they seem 
quite like the summer dish of fresh sliced peaches, when served 
as a winter dessert with cream, plain or whipped. 



294 WHATANDHOW 



Canning. 

Sterilize jars, tops and rubbers. See to it that the latter 
are new and free from cracks, also that they fit properly. Use 
no bent tops or nicked jars; in this work success is only pos- 
sible to the woman who assures herself of perfection in the 
most trivial preliminary, and who follows directions exactly. 
Fruit and vegetables must be freshly gathered and free from 
blemishes. Use a silver knife to pare fruit with, and drop the 
pieces into cold water as fast as pared to prevent discoloring. 

When ready to fill jars, fit rubbers on, have lids ready, 
stand jar on a folded wet towel, and using a jar funnel, fill 
it with the fruit. Pour syrup in until nearly full, slip a sil- 
ver knife down inside the jar to allow the bubbles of air to 
come to the top, and then pour in more syrup until the jar 
overflows when the lid should be quickly screwed on and the 
jar wiped off. Cook only enough at a time to fill one jar, other- 
wise the fruit will be too soft. 

In making the syrup the amount of sugar used has noth- 
ing to do with preserving the fruit, so that it becomes mere- 
ly a matter of how sweet you wish the syrup to be. When 
jars cool, give the tops an extra screwing. 

Canned Peaches. 

Pare, stone and halve the peaches, after washing them. 
Put the skins and a few of the stones, cracked, on the stove 
with enough cold water to cover. Boil for fifteen minutes 
and strain. Use this water to make a syrup, allowing 3 cups 
water to 2 cups sugar. If this is sweeter than you wish, add 
more water. Boil for 10 minutes, then add the peaches, a 
jar full at a time, and cook just long enough to become ten- 
der and clear, when they may be packed in the jar. Fill the 
jar to overflowing with syrup, and screw lid on tight. When 
cool, give the top another twist to make sure of its fitting 
perfectly tight, and set at once in a cool, dark place. 

Canned Pears I. 

Select Bartlett pears, as having more flavor than most 
others. After paring, cutting in half and removing core and 



FRUIT, FRESH AND PRESERVED 295 



seeds, boil until tender, remove from the kettle and spread 
on flat dishes. Make a syrup as in preceding recipe, drop 
the pears into it and proceed as for peaches. 

Canned Pears II. 

If using pears of inferior flavor, boil a piece of green ginger 
root in the syrup until the flavor is according to your taste, 
and then proceed as directed above. 

Pineapple, Quinces, 

and all hard fruits require the same treatment as the pears. 

Canned Rhubarb. 
Pare rhubarb and cut in 1 inch pieces. Pack in a jar, 
put under cold water faucet and let water run for 20 minutes, 
then screw on cover. Rhubarb canned this way has been 
known to keep a year. — Miss Farmar. 

Canned Small Fruits. 

Strawberries, raspberries and blackberries require the 
same treatment. Allow for each pound of fruit, % pound 
granulated sugar, sprinkle sugar between layers of berries in 
preserving kettle, and set aside for an hour. Put on the stove 
and heat gradually. When berries are hot through, pack jars 
with them and fill up with the juice. Let it overflow and screw 
on tops. 

Canned Cherries 

Cherries may be canned with or without the stones. If 
stoned with a reliable stoner they keep in perfect shape, but 
if done by hand, they are apt to lie flat in the jar. Use direc- 
tions given for canning other fruit. 

Canned Blackberries 

are especially useful in the winter for pies and blackberry 
mush. See recipe for small fruits. 



296 WHATANDHOW 



CANNED VEGETABLES. 

Canning Vegetables. 

I have given here only such recipes as I know may be 
carried out with satisfaction. If one lives where the vege- 
tables can be picked fresh and canned at once, it would be 
wise for her to invest in a patent canning outfit, and use direc- 
tions accompanying it. Otherwise, buy your canned corn, 
peas and beans. Canning vegetables is not ordinarily a suc- 
cess for the city woman nor economical either, with the ex- 
ception of those for which I have given recipes unless the Cold 
Pack Method is used. In this case vegetables may be canned 
with the assurance of success, provided, of course, directions 
are closely followed. 

Canned Tomatoes, Whole. 

Use jars with wide mouths. Select well shaped, large 
tomatoes, firm and ripe. Peel. Drop 6, or whatever num- 
ber will fill one jar, into boiling water, cover and cook 8 min- 
utes. Pack in a jar, fill up with boiling water and screw on 
tops. — Marion Harland. 

Tomatoes and Okra. 

Select for this young tender pods of the okra. Proceed 
with the tomatoes according to directions given for canning, 
slice the okra, and using equal quantities cook tomato and 
okra together until okra is tender. Use superfluous water 
from tomatoes for filling up jars — it must be boiling. 

Canned Tomatoes. 

Peel and cut up the tomatoes, rejecting the hard centres. 
The peeling is done quickly by pouring boiling water over 
them, a few at a time, and then running the cold water spigot 
into the pan until the hot water is cooled; the skins should 
now slip off easily. Do not allow the tomatoes to lie in the 
hot water or they will become soft. Squeeze with the hand 
and drain off superfluous water. Save this to can for soup. 
Put on the fire and cook steadily until they are like stewed 



FRUIT, FRESH AND PRESERVED Wt 



tomatoes, adding salt to taste and removing as much water 
as possible while they cook. Following directions given for 
canning, fill jars to overflowing and screw lids on tight. You 
will have jars full of stewed tomatoes ready to be heated, 
seasoned and thickened when needed for use. Cook the water 
drained off, until it is reduced nearly half, and fill jars as direct- 
ed. This is invaluable in many ways, for soups, gravies cas- 
seroles, etc. 

Canned Beets. 

Boil beets, rub off skin, cut into cubes or slices. Have 
ready boiling water, seasoned with salt and enough vinegar 
to flavor. Drop beets into this boiling liquid, cook until hot 
through, pack into jars and fill up with boiling liquid, as di- 
rected for canning. 

Canned Sweet Red Peppers. 

Wash one peck red peppers, remove stem end and seeds, 
then cut in thin strips by working around the pepper, using 
scissors. Cover with boiling water, let stand 2 minutes, drain, 
and plunge into ice water. Let stand 10 minutes, drain and 
pack solidly into pint jars. Boil one quart vinegar and two 
cups sugar 15 minutes, pour over peppers in jars until it over- 
flows, screw on the lids and keep in a cold place. For salads, 
casseroles, etc., there is nothing equal to this when the fresh 
pepper is out of season; it lasts a long while after the jar has 
been opened if kept covered with cold water, it is much cheaper 
than the canned pimento to be purchased at the stores, and 
is, in fact, quite a different article. In sandwiches it does not 
take the place of pimento as it is not soft enough to spread or 
mix with cream cheese, but is unrivalled in its own place. This 
is Miss Farmar's recipe, the comment is my own. 

Cold Pack Method. 

By the use of this method the canning of vegetables be- 
comes an easy matter for any woman who is willing to follow 
directions exactly. The neglect of any detail means failure 
while success is assured if instructions are carefully followed. 
The Government Bulletin on Canning is your best guide. It 



298 WHATANDHOW 



can be secured by writing to the Department of Agriculture, 
Washington. Expensive canning outfits are not. necessary. 
Ordinary wash boilers, new garbage pails, any container deep 
enough to allow an inch of water over tops of the jars will 
answer every purpose. 



299 



CHAPTER XXVII 



PICKLES, SWEET AND SOUR. 
Peaches. 

7 lbs. fruit 1 oz. stick cinnamon 

4 lbs. sugar yi oz. whole cloves 

1 quart vinegar 

Pare the peaches, halve and stone. Cook peaches, sugar 
and spices together slowly for 10 minutes, add vinegar and 
stew until fruit is clear and tender. Put away in stone jar. 



Plums. 

Prick the fruit (after washing), using a coarse needle. 
Allow 4 pounds sugar to 7 pounds plums, 1 ounce each of stick 
cinnamon and whole cloves. Heat slowly to a boil, add 1 
pint vinegar and boil 5 minutes. 

Pickled Cherries. 

Wash and seed cherries, weigh and cover with vinegar. 
Set aside for 24 hours. With an equal weight of sugar, pack 
cherries and sugar in alternate layers in a kettle or stone jar. 
Stir carefully two or three times daily until sugar is thoroughly 
dissolved. Put into glass jars. 

Whole Peaches. 

7 lbs. peaches 3 cups vinegar 

3 lbs. brown sugar }4 oz. stick cinnamon 

Cloves 

Pour boiling water over peaches and wipe with coarse 
towel to remove "fuzz," but be careful not to break the skin. 
Make a syrup of the sugar and vinegar; boil 20 minutes (with 
cinnamon). Stick 4 cloves into each peach and put fruit into 
an enamel kettle. Pour hot syrup over it and set aside until 
next day. Then heat syrup again and pour hot over peaches 
the second time. The next day boil syrup and fruit together 
until tender. Or, 



300 WHATANDHOW 



Boil syrup and cinnamon for 10 minutes, drop in the 
peaches, boil until tender. (Test with a wooden toothpick.) 
Remove the fruit, boil syrup until it begins to thicken, cool 
and pour over the peaches in a stone jar. The results are the 
same as in the first directions and it involves less labor and 
time. 

Cantelopes. 

Select firm, not too ripe cantelopes, small. Cut into sec- 
tions and pare. Put into stone jar and cover with vinegar. 
Let them stand for 24 hours. Weigh fruit, allowing to each 
8 pounds of cantelopes, 4 pounds sugar and 1 quart vinegar, 
in which they were soaked. One ounce each of stick cinna- 
mon and cloves should be added to this quantity. Boil sugar, 
vinegar and spice together for 5 minutes. Add the fruit and 
stew until it is clear and tender. Remove fruit with a skim- 
mer and put into stone jar. Boil syrup until it seems thick; 
cool and pour over the cantelopes. Do not use any sweet 
pickle until it is a month old, at least. 

Chutney. 

15 tart apples 2 onions 

15 green tomatoes 1 lb. seeded raisins 

8 cups sugar 3 cups vinegar 

1 cup lemon juice 3 tablespoons salt 

1 tablespoon ginger 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper. 

Pare and core the apples, cut tomatoes in slices and put 
apples, tomatoes and onions through meat chopper. Add rest 
of ingredients, stir thoroughly and let stand over night. Next 
day, cook slowly, stirring frequently to prevent burning. After 
two or three hours it should be of the consistency of jam. Put 
into sterilized glass jars and seal while hot. 

Watermelon Rind. 

Cut in strips about 2 inches long and y 2 inch wide and cut 
in half lengthwise. Uniform sized pieces add much to the 
appearance of this sweet pickle. Cover with alum water, 2 tea- 
spoons powdered alum to 1 quart of water and let them soak in 
this for yi hour. Boil 10 minutes in the alum water, drain, 
cover with ice water and set aside for 2 hours. Drain and wipe 



PICKLES SOI 



dry between two towels. Make a syrup of 4 lbs. sugar and 
1 pint white vinegar to 7 lbs. of fruit. Add for the same weight 
of fruit, 1 oz. stick cinnamon and 1 oz. whole cloves. Boil 5 
minutes. Add fruit and cook until tender. Let stand until 
next day, remove spices and put into glass jars cold. 

Cherries and Pears 

may be spiced according to recipe for plums, omitting the 
pricking. Remove stones from cherries and skin from pears, 
and if latter are not ripe, boil before adding to syrup. 



PICKLES. 



Yellow Tomatoes. 

Use small egg shaped tomatoes, and prick them with a 
coarse needle, this to prevent skin from bursting. Make a 
strong brine (salt and water), pack the tomatoes in a stone jar 
and cover them with it. Set aside for two days. Drain and 
wash. For yi peck tomatoes, allow 6 green peppers, seeds 
removed and peppers chopped, 1 ounce whole cloves, 1 ounce 
mixed mustard seed, and 1 pint tiny onions peeled. Put all 
together in a jar, cover with cold vinegar and tie up tightly. 



Peach Mangoes. 

Select large yellow peaches, not too ripe. Cover with 
strong brine for 24 hours. Then cut in half, take out stone, 
and return peaches to the brine for over night. 

For half peck peaches make filling as follows : 

2 oz. celery seed 2 oz. white mustard seed 

2 oz. coriander seed 2 oz. black mustard seed 

2 oz. ginger (ground) 2 oz. tumeric 

2 doz. small onions, chopped 1 tablespoon horse radish 

Mix thoroughly, fill the halves of peaches, tie together in 
pairs, pack in a jar and cover with cold vinegar. Make brine 
with 2 quarts of water and \}4 cups salt. 



302 WHAT AND HOW 



Ripe Tomato Pickle. 

7 lbs. ripe tomatoes yi oz. ground cinnamon 

3^ lbs. sugar % oz. ground mace 

1 quart vinegar 1 oz. ground cloves 

Peel and slice the tomatoes, mix with other ingredients, 
and cook slowly for one hour. This sauce is quite sweet. 

Pepper Sauce I. 

6 red peppers 1 large head cabbage 

12 green peppers 2 tablespoons mustard seed 

yi tablespoon ground cloves % tablespoon ground allspice 

yi oz. celery seed Vinegar 

Seed and chop peppers, chop cabbage and salt them sep- 
arately. Set aside for an hour, squeeze all the water from them, 
and mix together. Add spices, mix and pack in jars. Cover 
with cold vinegar. Ready for use in two days, or will keep all 
winter. This is a very old recipe, and has been in use in one 
family for five generations. 

Pepper Sauce II. 

Put through the meat chopper 1 head cabbage, 6 green 
peppers and 6 medium size onions. Mix well with 1 cup salt 
and set aside for 2 hours. Drain and squeeze dry as possible. 
Mix with J^ cup mustard seed, 3 tablespoons celery seed and 
1 cup sugar. Put into glass jars and cover with cold vinegar. 

Pickled Beets. 

Boil nice red beets until tender. (See directions for boil- 
ing beets to retain their color.) Drop into cold water and 
rub off the skins. Cut into small blocks, uniform in size. This 
is easily done by holding the beet in left hand, cutting across 
and down with a sharp knife, and crossing these cuts again 
at right angles; now cut off slices, making blocks about J^ inch 
square. Pack loosely in glass jars. Cover with vinegar, pre- 
pared as follows: To two quarts vinegar, allow 4 pounds 
sugar and half teaspoon powdered alum. Boil and skim. Then 
add one teaspoon each of whole cloves, whole allspice, pepper- 
corns and mustard seed tied in a piece of cheese cloth. Boil 
slowly for 15 minutes, pour over the beets and cover tightly 
as though canning. 



PICKLES 303 



Oil Pickles. 

2 doz. large cucumbers 2 doz. onions, medium size 

]4 lb. yellow mustard 1 cup olive oil 

1 tablespoon pepper 1 oz. each of allspice and cloves, 

ground 

Wash cucumbers and cut into slices l /i inch thick. Strew 
with salt, cover and set aside for 3 hours; drain. Peel and 
slice the onions, strew with salt and set aside for 3 hours; drain. 

Mix the remaining ingredients. Pack onions and cucum- 
bers in alternate layers in a stone jar, covering each layer 
with the mustard mixture, and pour over all, enough vinegar 
to cover. Tie up tightly. 

Chow Chow. 

2 qts. green tomatoes 1 qt. small cucumbers 
6 green peppers 4 large cucumbers 

1 large cauliflower 1 qt. button onions 

2 qts. vinegar yi cup sugar 
6 tablespoons yellow mustard 1 cup flour 

1 tablespoon tumeric 

Cut tomatoes, large cucumbers and peppers (seeded) 
into small pieces, peel onions and wash small cucumbers. Break 
the cauliflower into flowerets, and put all these vegetables 
into strong salt and water over night. In the morning, heat 
brine and vegetables together to boiling point; drain; pack 
vegetables in jars. Boil vinegar, make paste of mustard, sugar, 
flour and tumeric mixed with cold vinegar, add to boiling 
vinegar, stir well, pour over contents of jar while hot. Paste 
must not be too thick. 



"Pretty Pickle." 

12 green peppers ]/2 cup salt 

12 red peppers 3 cups sugar 

3 hot red peppers 3 pints vinegar 

16 large onions 2 teaspoons celery seed 

Put peppers through meat chopper, pour boiling water 
over them, drain. Repeat this. Put onions through chopper 
and mix with peppers. Add other ingredients and boil 15 
minutes. Put away in glass jars. Of course seeds and tough 
membrane must be removed from the peppers. 



304 WHATANDHOW 



Bordeaux Sauce. 

4 qts. chopped cabbage yi doz. onions, peeled and sliced 

2 qts. sliced green tomatoes }4 oz. tumeric 

yi oz. celery seed % oz. whole pepper corns 

X lb. mustard seed yi oz. whole allspice 

Yi cup salt y? oz. ground ginger 

3 cups brown sugar 2 qts. vinegar 

y* oz. whole cloves 

Mix all together, boil half hour. 

Green Tomato Soy. 

2 gallons sliced green tomatoes 1 tablespoon ground cloves 

12 large onions, peeled and sliced 1 qt. sugar 

2 qts. vinegar 2 tablespoons salt 

1 tablespoon ground allspice 2 tablespoons ground mustard 

2 tablespoons pepper 

Slice tomatoes without peeling, mix all ingredients to- 
gether and stew until tender, stirring often to prevent scorch- 
ing. Put into small glass jars. 

Pickled Onions. 

Select the small button onions, peel and cover with brine 
(2 quarts water to 1>£ cups salt). Let them lay in this 4 days. 
Drain. Make a fresh supply of brine, put it on the stove; 
when it boils, drop in the onions and boil 5 minutes. Drain; 
cover with cold water and set aside until the next day. Drain. 
Spice some vinegar, the quantity depending upon the number 
of jars you expect to fill, pack the onions in the jars, cover with 
the vinegar boiling hot, and fasten tops on. Do not use for 
several weeks. 

To Spice Vinegar. 

To 1 gallon vinegar, allow 1 cup sugar, 2 red peppers, 
seeded and chopped, 1 ounce cloves and 1 ounce peppercorns. 
Cook 10 minutes and strain. 

Cold Tomato Sauce. 

y 2 peck ripe tomatoes 1 cup mixed mustard seed 

1 cup grated horse radish 2 stalks celery, chopped 
y* cup salt 1 cup nasturtium seeds 

2 green peppers, seeded and 1 onion, chopped 
chopped 1 cup sugar 

2 red peppers, seeded and chopped 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 
1 teaspoon ground cloves 3 cups vinegar 



PICKLES 305 



Peel tomatoes, cut small and drain off water and juice. 
Mix all ingredients in a stone jar and cover. Ready for use 
in a month. 

Cold Tomato Sauce. 

The foregoing recipe makes only a small quantity of pickle. 

It is such a useful and delicious sauce to have on hand that I 

am giving the recipe here for 

1 basket tomatoes 4 cups salt 

4 cups mustard seed 2 tablespoons pepper 

8 red peppers, sweet 6 green peppers, sweet 

4 cups sugar 1 tablespoon ground cloves 

1 tablespoon ground mace 2 tablespoons cinnamon 

2 quarts vinegar 4 cups celery, cut in small pieces 

5 onions sliced 2 cups grated horse radish 

Chili Sauce. 

9 ripe tomatoes 3 tablespoons sugar 
2 green peppers 3 teaspoons salt 

2 large onions yi teaspoon cloves 

1 tablespoon celery seed 2 cups vinegar 

1 nutmeg, grated 

Put peppers and onions through meat chopper, peel and 
cut tomatoes in small pieces' Tie celery seed in a bag. Mix all 
ingredients and cook 1 hour. If not thick by this time, cook 
longer. The peppers must be prepared according to directions 
given in preceeding recipes. Use pint jars to put it in. 



306 WHAT AND HOW 

CHAPTER XXVIII 

Cooking in a Casserole and Fireless Cooker. 

The easiest, the cheapest, the best cooking in the world 
is done in either a casserole or a vessel arranged to work on 
the same principle. The toughest meat becomes tender, the 
most tasteless material comes forth delicately flavored, and 
everybody may have one, inasmuch as a plain earthern ware 
dish with a close cover, is just as valuable a casserole, as 
though it were of expensive ware and encased in silver holders, 

Of course, the latter is much better looking on the table, 
but our plainer one, costing but a small sum, may be dressed 
in the paper case that comes for the purpose, or have a napkin 
pinned around it and look perfectly respectable anywhere. By 
this method of cooking, nothing escapes in steam, because the 
steam itself is fastened in with the food and does the cooking, 
condensing on the lid and dropping back on the contents, 
flavored with condiments and spice, blended with the aroma 
of herbs, vegetables and meat. For economical reasons also, 
the casserole is to be commended; there is nothing too small 
or meagre, to be combined and used; fragments that would 
ordinarily be wasted are invaluable in the casserole, and as 
the cooking process is a long slow one, all the work neces- 
sary to prepare one, may be done early in the day, which 
should commend it to the woman who cooks her own dinner. 

Meat to be cooked in the casserole needs searing before 
it is placed in the casserole. Bacon fat or ham drippings will 
add to the flavor, if these are not convenient, use butter. Have 
pan and fat very hot so that the pores will close at once. (See 
chapter on meat for description of searing.) Pimento (canned 
sweet pepper) or the sweet red pepper itself when in season, 
is invaluable in casseroles; it gives a flavor and zest not ob- 
tainable from anything else; onion, tomatoes, spices, kitchen 
bouquet and herbs are all essential. After the cooking is well 
under way the casserole may be removed to the fireless cooker 
where it can remain until time to serve thus relieving the 
cook of any further thought of her meal through the after- 



CASSEROLE AND FIRELESS COOKER W 



noon. For the casserole may contain all the dinner except 
salad and dessert, or soup if it is to be served. I have selected 
a few recipes most likely to prove useful, but the ingenuity of 
each housekeeper is called upon to evolve other dishes accord- 
ing to the left overs at her command; she will find it most 
interesting and satisfactory work and quite worthy of intelli- 
gent use. 



Chicken Casserole. 

Joint a chicken and remove the meat from the larger 
bones. If it is an old chicken, steam it for an hour in ]4 pint 
water and 2 teaspoons vinegar, keeping it closely covered and 
the water boiling gently. Drain and wipe dry. Melt 3 table- 
spoons good dripping or bacon fat in a skillet, chop an onion 
and fry to a golden brown, but do not let it burn. Roll the 
pieces of chicken in flour and fry to a good brown, but do not 
cook any longer than is necessary to brown it. Cut 1 carrot 
into diny dice, also 1 cup of celery. Cut into narrow strips, 1 
red pepper if in season, if not use 1 canned pimento, or some 
strips of preserved and canned pepper if you have been wise 
enough to put these up in glass jars as recommended. Make 
a bed of these vegetables and arrange the chicken on it, 
sprinkle with salt and pepper. To the fat remaining in the 
pan (if there is more than 1 tablespoon pour the surplus off), 
add 1 tablespoon flour and rub smooth. Add 2 cups hot water 
add y 2 teaspoon kitchen bouquet and cook for 10 min- 
utes with 2 bay leaves and a sprig of thyme. Remove the 
herbs, pour over the chicken, add >£ cup button mushrooms, 
or pieces and stems sliced, and bake closely covered in a 
moderate oven for 2 hours. Or, place casserole on asbestos 
mat on the stove, heat gradually, let boil gently 15 minutes, 
and transfer to the tireless cooker for 4 to 6 hours. When 
ready to serve, pour off the gravy, add 1 cup cream, and 
thicken slightly with 1 tablespoon flour and the same of but- 
ter rubbed smooth together. Season with salt and pepper, 
pour back over the chicken and serve. Sprinkle minced pars- 
ley over the top. 



308 WHATANDHOW 



Rice Border. 

If desired, a rice border may be made by boiling slowly, 1 
cup rice in 1 quart salted water, until the rice absorbs the 
water and forms a smooth paste. Grease the casserole, mash 
the rice with 2 tablespoons butter, add salt and pepper to taste, 
and with the casserole quite cold, line the bottom and sides 
of it with the rice paste. Set aside for half an hour, or until 
rice stiffens, then proceed as above. 

Creole Chicken Casserole. 

Proceed according to recipe for chicken casserole, using 
instead of the sauce given there, a Creole sauce made as fol- 
lows: 

1 tablespoon butter 2 green peppers 

1 tablespoon flour 2 onions, medium size 

1 cup tomatoes 1 bay leaf 

2 sprigs thyme 2 sprigs parsley 
Salt Pepper 

1 cup water 

Melt butter, stir in flour and let it brown. Add water 
slowly and stir until smooth. Add other ingredients (the pep- 
pers, seeded and sliced, the onion chopped) cook slowly for 15 
minutes, remove bay leaf and herbs and pour over the chicken. 
Finish the casserole according to directions given for Chicken 
Casserole. 

Casserole of Minced Veal. 

Line a casserole with rice, as described in Chicken Cas- 
serole. Make a cream mince of veal, mixing 2 cups chopped 
meat with 1 cup White Sauce, well seasoned, put into cas- 
serole and cook in moderate oven 1 hour. Serve with Tomato 
Sauce. Chicken, beef or lamb can be used instead of veal. 

Beef Casserole. 

2 lbs. round steak ]/£ green pepper 

1 pint tomatoes yi bay leaf 

1 onion, chopped Salt and pepper 

Sear the meat and lay it in the casserole. Put in the 
other ingredients and heat gradually to the boiling point. As 
soon as it begins to boil, transfer to the fireless cooker for 4 
hours, or longer if you choose. If you have no fireless cooker, 



CASSEROLE AND FIRELESS COOKER 309 



bake in a slow oven 2 hours, or over a burner of the gas stove 
turned low enough to keep the casserole simmering The 
meat will not be tender if you allow the sauce to boil hard. 
When ready to serve, if sauce is not thick enough add 1 table- 
spoon flour mixed smooth with a little cold water and strained, 
cook until thick. Remove the bay leaf. 

Casserole of Lamb Chops. 

2 lbs. chops from a leg of lamb 1 cup potato balls 

or mutton 1 doz. button onions 

4 large tomatoes ^4 can mushrooms 
1 cup stock 

Sear the meat; peel and slice tomatoes; parboil the potato 
balls and onions for 5 minutes. The latter must of course be 
peeled, and are improved by laying an hour in cold water. If 
you do not have a potato ball cutter, they may be cut into }4 
inch blocks. Put a layer of tomatoes in the casserole, sprinkle 
with salt and pepper and a layer of green peppers, cut into 
small pieces. Lay }4 the meat upon this, cover with potatoes, 
onions, and mushrooms, then put in the rest of the meat. On 
top of this put another layer of tomatoes with peppers. 
Sprinkle each layer with a little salt. Pour over all, the stock 
and bake 2 hours in a slow oven, or }4 hour on the stove, heat- 
ing gradually, and 4 hours in the fireless cooker. Pour off 
gravy, when ready to serve, thicken it, allowing }4 tablespoon 
butter and the same of flour to each cup of gravy. Cook it 
long enough to lose the taste of the flour before returning to 
the casserole. Make stock of beef extract and hot water if 
you have no stock or gravy to use. 

The Fireless Cooker. 

According to U. S. government reports, the fireless cooker 
saves from 20 per cent, to 50 per cent, of the nutritive food 
values that usually boil away; in ordinary cooking the shrink- 
age is very perceptible, there is practically none in this method 
of cooking by retained heat. The fireless cooker saves fuel, 
reduces the heat of the kitchen, is odorless, for there can be 
no escape of steam, and to the woman who does her own work, 
a boon inasmuch as her breakfast may be put in the night be- 



310 WHATANDHOW 



fore, and her dinner prepared and set in the cooker in the 
morning without causing her a thought through the afternoon. 
It is especially useful for meat or vegetables requiring long 
slow cooking, and used in conjunction with the casserole will 
provide the most nutritious food at the minimum of cost. 
If using a kettle which is smaller than the cooker kettle, put 
hot water in the latter and the small kettle inside the large 
one. As it retains heat, it will also retain cold, and there is no 
better place to keep ice cream from melting, or any chilled 
dessert perfectly cold. A small piece of ice will thoroughly 
chill it, remove ice and put in the cream. Or set the cream in 
a small pail inside the cooker kettle with ice in it, it will keep 
for hours. 

Baked Beans With Fireless Cooker. 

Prepare beans as directed in recipe for Boston Baked 
Beans; after cooking an hour, remove to the fireless cooker 
and leave for several hours, or over night. This is the ideal 
way of cooking baked beans, as the heat is steady. You may 
have to reheat in the oven and return to the cooker, which 
depends upon your cooker. A good one should keep the beans 
cooking all night. 

Jams. 

Jams cook thick and smooth in the fireless cooker. When 
you are sure the syrup and fruit are thoroughly hot, put into 
the cooker to finish. 

Apples and Rhubarb 

Will retain their color if cooked in the fireless cooker, or 
if the fruit is colorless, will assume a rich red color. Sprinkle 
the fruit well with sugar, set the cooker kettle containing it 
on the stove where the sugar will melt gradually, and when 
the syrup forms, bring all to boiling point, transfer to the 
cooker and leave it for 2 hours. If the fruit is very dry, add 
a small quantity of water to make the syrup. 

Stewed Beef Kidney. 

2 beef's kidneys y& teaspoon powdered mace, or 

1 sprig thyme Y teaspoon grated nutmeg 

1 cup White Sauce Salt and pepper 



CASSEROLE AND FIRE LESS COOKER 811 



Slice kidneys, and soak for 1 hour in strong salt water; 
drain. Cover with cold water, heat to boiling point, pour off 
water and cover again with cold water. When heated to 
boiling point repeat process twice. Mince the kidneys, re- 
jecting all fibre and fat. Add to white sauce with the season- 
ings, put into the cooker kettle and bring to the boil. When 
boiling rapidly — transfer at once to the cooker. If the quan- 
tity is too small to fill the kettle that fits in the cooker, use a 
smaller kettle: when ready for the cooker, put this into the 
larger kettle and fill up with newspapers crumpled up and 
packed in. The kidney may remain in the cooker 6 or 8 hours. 

If cooker is not used, boil kidney, after mincing, for 4 
hours on the stove; thicken the gravy add the seasonings and 
cook 20 minutes longer. 

Sweet Potato Balls. 

After baking a ham with sugar as directed (Chap. 7) there 
will be a quantity of syrup remaining in the pan. Use this 
to cover in a casserole, sweet potato balls or slices, (which 
have been previously boiled 10 minutes). Cook in a slow 
oven until potatoes are tender. Or. they may be put into the 
fireless cooker for 2 hours, in which case they will not need 
parboiling. Boil on the stove 15 minutes before removing to 
the cooker. 

Casserole of Calf's Liver. 

Have your dealer send home to you a larded calf's liver. 
In the casserole, put a layer of minced salt pork. Lay the 
larded liver upon this and add a mince made of 1 carrot, 1 
large onion, 6 stalks celery, and 1 bay leaf, all chopped very 
fine. Cover with 4 cups strong stock, seasoned with the juice 
and grated rind of 1 lemon, ^ teaspoon kitchen bouquet, salt 
and pepper. If you have no stock on hand, make it of boiling 
water and beef extract, seasoning as directed. Bake, covered, 
in the oven 2 hours; or heat gradually on the stove and cook 
yi hour, put into fireless cooker for 4 hours. Thicken the 
gravy slightly and strain it over the liver on the dish in which 
it is served. 



312 WHAT AND HOW 



CHAPTER XXIX 



CANAPES AND SANDWICHES. 

Canapes are served before the first course at dinners and 
luncheons, on very small plates at each place, before guests are 
seated. The foundation is always the same; thin slices of 
erustless bread, either fried in hot fat or dipped in melted but- 
ter and browned in hot oven. Like salads, these are capable of 
infinite variety in the hands of an experienced or interested 
housekeeper, and will fully repay the small amount of trouble 
involved in their manufacture in the satisfaction always aris- 
ing from the exercise of ingenuity. Cut the bread square, 
round or oblong, and vary by using the scalloped cooky cutter 
occasionally. 

Anchovy Canapes. 

1 tablespoon Anchovy paste 2 hard boiled eggs 

1 teaspoon lemon juice 6 olives chopped very fine 

1 tablespoon butter 

With a fork, cream the butter, add paste, lemon juice 
and chopped olives, and mix thoroughly. Spread toast with 
this mixture, arrange a ring of finely chopped egg white, and 
put in the centre a small mound of egg yolks rubbed through 
fine sieve. 

Sardines or Caviare 

may be used in place of Anchovy. 

Bellevue Canape. 

Upon the toast lay a thin slice of bright red boiled beet, 
which has been marinated. On this lay a slice of hard boiled 
egg and cover with a little Mayonnaise. Top off with a stuffed 
olive standing on end, and surround with a ring of minced 
pimento. 

Manhattan Canape. 

Cut peeled tomatoes in quarter inch thick slices, and put 
on toast. Spread with Mayonnaise. Arrange a ring of 
chopped whites hard boiled eggs, a mound in centre, of the 



CANAPES AND SANDWICHES 313 



yolks rubbed through fine sieve, decorated with a stuffed 
olive standing in centre and a tiny sprig of parsley laid across 
the olive. 

Daisy Canape. 

On a thick slice of tomato, covered with Mayonnaise, 
arrange finely chopped whites of hard boiled egg in four points 
to resemble the petals, and put yolks rubbed to a powder in 
the centre. 

Crab Canape. 

Mix \]4. tablespoons grated cheese with 1 tablespoon but- 
ter, add % teaspoon paprika and cream with a fork until 
smooth; spread on slices of toast. Marinate 1 cup crab 
meat, chopped fine, in French dressing for an hour, drain and 
spread over the canape. Serve very cold. 

Cheese Canapes. 

Sprinkle rounds of toasted or fried bread with thick layer 
of grated cheese, sprinkle with paprika and salt, bake in hot 
oven until cheese is melted. 

SANDWICHES. 

Thin slices of crustless bread, cut into different shapes 
for variety's sake, the best of butter, creamed with a fork, well 
seasoned and varied fillings, these are essentials in the mak- 
ing of sandwiches. If not for immediate use wrap in paraffine 
paper to keep moist. Use bread at least a day old, and un- 
less the sandwich is to be cut with round or fancy cooky cut- 
ters, spread the slice before cutting from the loaf. It is not 
worth while to waste the butter if remnants are to be left after 
cutting out. 

Sandwiches may be made in squares, oblongs, triangles, 
circles, crescents or rolled. The latter is diffiult to accom- 
plish and the bread must be fresh and of just the right tex- 
ture. I have prepared a list of sandwich fillings from which 
selections may be made. With the assistance of flavored but- 
ters a greater variety still may be obtained. These flavored 
butters are also available for canapes. I have obtained these 



314 WHATANDHOW 



from ''The Hostess of To-day," a book rich in ideas for 
"those who appreciate the finer effects of seasoning and serv- 
ing." Mrs. Larned recommends the use of unsalted butter 
for these, but if not easily obtained, the usual salted butter 
may be used. Personally, I think it adds to the flavor. 

Sandwich Fillings. 

WHITE BREAD. BROWN BREAD. 

1 Thin slices ham, and chopped 1 . Cream cheese and pimento 
pickles mixed and moistened with 

2. 1 cup chopped celery French dressing 

1 tablespoon chopped apples 2. Chopped nuts and jelly or mar- 

1 tablespoon chopped nuts malade 

Moisten with Mayonnaise 3. Maraschino cherries cut small 

3. Cream cheese mixed with chopped nuts 
Chopped nuts 4. Canton ginger in thin slices 
Mix with Mayonnaise 

4. Lettuce dipped in French • RYE BREAD. 

dressing, sprinkled with hard Swiss cheese in very thin slices 
boiled eggs, chopped spread lightly with French 

5. yi cup chicken chopped dressing or mustard 
% cup celery chopped 

Mix with Mayonnaise 

Olive Butter. 

6 large olives stoned and chopped Or, 6 pimolas chopped fine 

fine 1 tablespoon butter 

Cream butter, add olives gradually, mashing as smooth 
as possible. 

Tartare Butter I. 

1 teaspoon capers chopped 1 teaspoon vinegar 

1 teaspoon pickled cucumber, 1 teaspoon lemon juice 
chopped l /i teaspoon French mustard 

2 olives chopped fine 1 tablespoon butter 

Tartare Butter II. 

Mix with 1 tablespoon creamed butter, 1 tablespoon Cold 
Tomato Sauce (see pickles), which must be drained perfectly 
dry and chopped very fine. 



Parsley Butter. 

irsley 2 ta 

jw drops onion juice 

Cream butter, and add parsley and onion juice. 



1 tablespoon minced parsley 2 tablespoons butter 

Few drops onion juice 



CANAPES AND SANDWICHES 815 



Watercress Butter. 
Make by preceding recipe. The cress must he minced 
very fine. 

Anchovy Butter. 

1 tablespoon Anchovy paste yi teaspoon mustard 

1 teaspoon lemon juice Dash of cayenne 

1 tablespoon butter 

Cream the butter with a fork, add other ingredients and 
mix thoroughly. 

Caviare Butter. 

2 tablespoons Caviare paste yi teaspoon paprika 

1 teaspoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon butter 

Cream butter and add other ingredients. 
Cheese Butter. 

2 tablespoon grated cheese or yi teaspoon paprika 
Parmesan 1 tablespoon butter 

Cream butter and add other ingredients. 
Chutney Butter. 

1 tablespoon Chutney ]/i teaspoon French mustard 

yi teaspoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon butter 

Proceed as above. 

Lobster Butter. 

1 tablespoon lobster meat, pounded yi teaspoon Anchovy paste 

fine 1 teaspoon lemon juice 

J A tablespoon coral, mashed Dash paprika 

smooth Dash nutmeg, grated 

1 tablespoon butter 

Cream butter, blend all other ingredients thoroughly, and 
add to butter. Fine for canapes. 

Pimento Paste. 

Heat 2 sweet red peppers in the oven until the skin can 
be removed. Boil until tender, and rub through a sieve. Mix 
with equal quantity of cream cheese. This can be purchased 
already for use, and is invaluable in sandwiches or as a picnic 
accompaniment, to be eaten on crackers. 

For Club Sandwiehes, see chapter on Luncheon and Supper. 



316 WHAT AND HOW 

CHAPTER XXX 

WHAT TO SAVE, AND WHY. 

"No one can be sure of having enough, unless she has too 
much/' which means "left overs." In the chapter on 
"Luncheon and Supper," will be found many recipes for using 
these, if enough be left over; this chapter will offer sugges- 
tions for using quantities too small to be of service in a menu, 
but yet may be utilized in other ways. 

A tablespoon of beans, save for vegetable soup. 

2 tablespoons mashed potatoes will make a great differ- 
ence in your bread, if added to the liquids before the flour goes 
in, it will keep bread soft and fresh for several days. 

Crusts and scraps of bread. Dry in the oven, and use 
for bread crumbs to fry with. 

2 tablespoons gravy, save for sauce, or minces. 

1 tablespoon mushrooms is enough for an omelet. 

Bones and scraps from a roast will make soup, if covered 
with cold water, brought slowly to the boil and cooked slowly 
for Yz hour. Strain. 

Rice water. After boiling rice, drain and use the water 
for soup or rice jelly. It is full of nourishment, and if sweet- 
ened and cooled, makes a good dessert for an invalid or child. 
If not thick enough for jelly boil again for 15 minutes. If 
treated in this way, it may be moulded. 

Pieces of fat and all skimmings from gravies and soups, 
from the water in which a ham had been boiled or that in 
which poultry or meat has been cooked, should be saved, sim- 
mered gently over the fire in a double boiler and strained 



WHATTOSAVE 317 



through a sieve. Keep in a cold place until solid. It is the 
best frying material you can have. Do not use mutton fat, 
the flavor is not pleasant. 

Sour milk is valuable for biscuits, gingerbread or cottage 
cheese. Two cups sour milk will make enough of the latter 
to serve two persons, or, mixed with chopped nuts or pimento, 
will make about a dozen balls for salad. 

1 cup breakfast hominy, will make muffins, or if sliced 
and fried, a garnish for a meat dish. 

1 tablespoon stewed tomatoes, rubbed through a sieve 
to remove seeds, will make a desirable addition to a brown 
sauce, or meat gravy. 

Oatmeal or other cooked breakfast foods, may be pressed 
into a dish, and when cold and firm, sliced or cut into blocks, 
dredged with flour and fried, or used for griddle cakes. 

A ham bone gives an excellent flavor to bean soup; the 
skin, when removed after boiling, will yield quite a little fat 
suitable for corn bread or frying potatoes. Cover it with 
water, boil for ten minutes, strain and when cold, remove the 
fat from the top of the water. 

2 tablespoons cooked fish, combined with equal quantity 
mashed potato, will make ten fish balls. 

Small quantities of cooked meats, not enough for a 
mince may be mixed with mashed potato, made into meat 
cakes and fried, or shaped into a mound, brushed over with 
melted butter and baked in a moderate oven long enough to 
heat thoroughly. Season well. 

Mushroom peelings and stems. Wash thoroughly be- 
fore peeling. Put through the meat chopper and dry. Put into 
a glass jar with a tight cover. One teaspoon will flavor six 
cups of consomme. 



318 WHATANDHOW 

Celery tops. Prepare as above, Or tie in a bunch and 
use for soup flavoring. 

Outside and coarse pieces of celery, for stewing. 

Celery roots may be sliced and used for soup seasoning. 

Parsley may be dried in the oven with the door left open. 
It can be powdered and kept in a jar with a tight lid. Wash 
parsley, shake dry, put in a glass jar with tight lid and put 
in a cold place. It will keep for a week. 

For garnishing carrot tops, parsley, cress, mint, celery 
tops, hard boiled eggs, bright red sliced beets. 

Herb bouquet. 1 spray parsley, 1 sprig thyme, 2 celery 
tops, 1 bay leaf.. 1 chili pepper (small). Cooked in soup stock 
for an hour will season 4 quarts. 



319 



CHAPTER XXXI 



FOR THE SICK AND CONVALESCENT. 

These recipes are given in quantities sufficient for one 
person. I am indebted for most of them to Miss Farmar's 
"Food and Cookery for the Sick and Convalescent/' a book 
of fascinating interest, which is used as a text book in many 
training schools for nurses, and should be in every home. 

Albumen Water. 

White 1 egg % cup cold water 

Beat white of egg, adding water gradually; add a dash 
of salt, or a few drops lemon juice. 

Beef Extract and Albumen Water. 

White 1 egg % cup boiling water 

2 teaspoons beef juice or Celery salt or 

yi teaspoon beef extract Few drops lemon juice 

Stir beef juice in the hot water, and proceed as w T ith pre- 
ceding recipe, seasonings last. 

Egg Lemonade. 

1 egg 2 tablespoons lemon juice 

yi teaspoon powdered sugar 2 teaspoons sherry 

% cup cold water 2 tablespoons crushed ice 

Beat egg slightly, add sugar and other ingredients, and 
strain over crushed ice Wine may be omitted if not desired. 

Irish Moss 

deserves to be better known. A generation or two ago, it was 
in constant use for colds, inflamed throats or irritating coughs, 
and it still has a place in those families to whom the recipes 
have descended from great grandmothers. 

Pick over and wash well, soak in enough cold water to 
cover, and then put on the stove and cook twenty minutes, 
allowing to one quart water, about a cup of the moss, meas- 
ured before soaking. Sweeten to taste, and add enough lemon 
juice to flavor it well. It may be strained if desired, but my 



320 WHATANDHOW 



memory goes back to my grandmother and her pitcher of 
"carrageen," as she called it, with the bits of moss and slices 
of lemon as thin as paper floating in it, giving an added charm 
to the drink. Serve hot or cold; for sore throats and incipient 
colds, it is best hot. 

Orange Albumen. 

Beat the white of an egg to a stiff froth, adding gradually 
the juice of an orange. Serve with plenty of crushed ice. 

If Milk Disagrees 

try a little Vichy in it. This makes it more digestible. 

Egg Nog. 

1 egg \}4 tablespoons sherry or 

yi tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon brandy 



cup cold milk 



Beat egg separately. To the yolk, add sugar, beat in the 
liquor gradually, then add milk a little at a time, beating con- 
stantly. Fold in the white of egg beaten stiff. 

Wine Whey. 

To ]/2 cup milk, allow 6 tablespoonfuls sherry wine. 
Scald the milk and add the wine. After it has stood a 
few minutes the milk will break; strain through cheese cloth. 

Clam Broth. 

Clam broth, as made by the Franco American Co., is just 
as good as though made at home. It may be purchased in 
tiny cans holding y 2 pint. 

Chicken Broth, I. 

is also obtainable in the same way, saving a nurse much trouble 
and time. Open cans and let contents aerate before using. 

Chicken Broth, II. 

Pour hot chicken broth gradually over an egg beaten only 
long enough to mix the yolk and white, and continue beating 



SICK AND CONVALESCENT 321 



while adding broth. Cook just a moment and strain. If 
cooked too long the egg will curdle. 

Chicken Broth, III. 

Select for this, the back, wings, neck and feet of the 
chicken. Scald the feet and skin them. Pound these bones and 
whatever meat may be on them with a potato pestle, and put 
them into a kettle that will fit in the fireless cooker. Cover 
with cold water, sprinkle with salt, and cook slowly on the 
stove for ]/ 2 hour. Put into the cooker over night, or all day. 
Strain, chill and skim. If you do not use a cooker, it must 
simmer 4 hours or more, on the stove. Season with salt and 
celery extract. 

Jellied Chicken Broth. 

Prepare as above, 1 to 2 cups broth, add 1 tablespoon 
gelatin soaked 10 minutes in cold water; strain, heat to boil- 
ing point, and season with salt, pepper and celery extract. 
Mould. Use the better pieces of the chicken for stewing or 
frying. Or, buy 2 cans chicken broth, and use for jelly. 

To Vary the Seasoning, 

cook a slice of onion in the broth, before adding gelatin, and 
let it remain only long enough to give a flavor which will not 
be too pronounced. An invalid soon tires of beef tea, broths, 
etc., but the appetite may be stimulated by a change in the 
seasonings used. 

Beef Tea. 
The meat from the neck or shoulder will be found more 
juicy than the piece of round steak usually recommended for 
beef tea. Cut one pound of beef into small pieces (after wash- 
ing it well), cover with cold water and keep in a cold place 
for y 2 hour. A little salt added to the water will aid in draw- 
ing out the juice. Put over the fire and heat slowly to boil- 
ing point, but do not allow it to boil. Strain. Beef tea may 
be seasoned with celery extract occasionally, which relieves 
the monotony when given constantly. Also, a slice of onion 
may be dropped in just long enough to change the taste without 
imparting its own flavor. 



322 WHATANDHOW 



Mutton Broth. 

3 lbs. lamb cut from the rack 2 tablespoons boiled rice or barley 

3 pints cold water Salt 

Remove all fat from the meat, and separate the meat from 
the bones. Cut this into small pieces, and with the bones 
and water added, heat gradually to boiling point, skim and 
cook slowly for an hour or more. Strain and cool. When 
fat rises to the top (if set in a bowl of ice, it can be quickly 
cooled) skim carefully,rem oving small particles with a piece 
of blotting paper; reheat, add rice or barley previously boiled 
until soft. A tiny bit of parsley dropped in the cup, makes it 
attractive. 

Toast. 

Vary the usual appearance of toast by cutting the bread 
in different shapes before toasting. Only an experienced per- 
son knows how necessary it is to use all means possible to 
render the invalid's tray inviting and its contents tempting. 
Toast may be made of bread, cut into squares and then diagon- 
ally across; in circles, with the scalloped cooky cutter, in 
rings with the cruller cutter, in strips, blocks, or finger shap- 
ed pieces. Do not pile slices of toast on top of one another, 
tip them up and rest edges together, or arrange log cabin 
fashion if cut into strips. 

Cream Toast, I. 

Make a white sauce with ]/i tablespoon butter, ^ table- 
spoon flour and one cup milk; following directions for making 
white sauce. Season well with salt and a little pepper. Make 
2 or 3 pieces of toast, dip into the sauce, put on hot plate and 
pour remaining sauce over it. 

Cream Toast, II. 

Butter thin slices of toast and arrange in a soup plate. 
Sprinkle lightly with salt. Pour over them boiling water, and 
turn it off at once. Cover with cream, put a hot plate over 
dish, and stand over hot water a few moments before serving. 
The cream may be heated, but it is not necessary. 



SICK AND CONVALESCENT 323 



Oatmeal Mush With Apples. 

Core apples and cut the cavity larger. Pare. Make 
syrup of one cup sugar and \}4 cups water, and cook apples 
in this until they are tender but not soft. Serve hot, with hot 
oatmeal mush in the cavity, sprinkle lightly with sugar and 
cover with cream or rich milk. This quantity of syrup will 
do several apples and they may be served in a variety of ways. 
If two are cooked, serve one with the mush, the other one 
next day, with a jelly made by boiling the syrup until it spins 
a thread; flavor with lemon juice, or flavor and color with a 
drop or two of red coloring extract. 

Panada. 

Cut two slices of stale bread into small blocks. Pour 
boiling water over it, and drain at once. Sprinkle with sugar, 
dust with grated nutmeg, and serve hot in a glass. A tea- 
spoon of sherry wine may be added if desired. 

Raw Beef Sandwich. 

Cut 2 thin slices of bread and remove crust. Butter. 
Spread 1 slice with scraped beef seasoned with salt and cover 
with the other slice. Cut in half diagonally, making 2 tri- 
angular sandwiches. To scrape beef, cut into strips, and fol- 
lowing the grain of the meat, scrape with a spoon, first on 
one side and then on the other. This will remove the meat 
from the tissue or fibre. 

Raw Beef Sandwiches Toasted. 

These sandwiches may be delicately browned on both sides, 
either over a clear fire, or under the oven gas flame. & 

Chicken Sandwiches. 

Mince cold boiled chicken, add a tiny bit of minced pars- 
ley and season with salt. Then proceed as for Raw Beef Sand- 
wiches, plain or toasted. 



324 WHATANDHOW 



Egg Toast. 

Boil an egg 20 minutes; toast a piece of crustless bread, 
about yi inch thick. Butter it, and dip for an instant only, 
into hot water. Cover it with the yolk of the egg rubbed 
through a wire sieve. Good for babies (over a year old) as 
well as for invalids. 

Chicken Omelet. 

2 tablespoons minced chicken 1 teaspoon minced parsley 

% cup White Sauce 2 eggs 

Salt to taste 

Make the sauce with yi tablespoon each of butter and 
flour, and ^2 cupful milk, following directions for White 
Sauce. Beat the eggs just long enough to mix yolks and 
whites, and make into an omelet. When ready to double over 
put % the chicken and White Sauce, mixed together and 
seasoned., on one side, double the other side over it, turn out 
on a platter, and pour the remainder of the chicken and sauce 
around it. Richardson and Robbins' boned chicken, in small 
cans, can be used to advantage in this recipe. Full directions 
for making the omelet will be found on page 221. 



Creamed Chicken. 

1 small can Richardson & Rob- >^ cup White Sauce 

bins' boned chicken 1 slice toast, crustless, and 

Cut into yi inch squares 

Use only part of the chicken, turn the remainder into a 
bowl to use for soup, puree, etc. For this, the white meat is 
best, while the dark makes the better soup. Mix chicken and 
White Sauce, push the squares of toast together into the 
shape of a slice, and pour creamed chicken over it. Toast ar- 
ranged thus is convenient for a convalescent to eat. A poach- 
ed or dropped egg may be used instead of chicken, or toast 
cut in this way, may be covered with cream or milk heated 
and seasoned. Use celery extract to season the creamed 
chicken, or if celery tops are available 2 or 3 pieces may be 
cooked in the sauce long enough to give a flavor. 



SICK AND CONVALESCENT 325 



Chicken Puree. 

\4> cup cooked chicken, chopped 1 tablespoon butter 

1 cup scalded milk Celery extract 

Dash of salt 

Rub meat through a puree strainer, and mix smooth with 
the butter; add the milk gradually and the seasonings. The 
canned chicken is very convenient to use for this puree. 

Cup Custard, Boiled. 

Beat the yolks of 2 eggs slightly with }4 tablespoon of 
sugar. Heat one cup of milk and pour gradually over the egg 
mixture, beating all the time. Return to the fire and cook 
over hot water, stirring constantly until the custard is thick 
enough to coat the spoon. Flavor with lemon, vanilla, or 
bitter almond. When very cold, serve in a glass with a mer- 
ingue on top, made of the whites of eggs whipped stiff 
and sweetened with powdered sugar. A little pink confec- 
tioner's sugar will add to its attractiveness. Also, a maraschino 
cherry is a good decoration, dropped on the top of the 
meringue. 

Irish Moss Blanc Mange. 

1 tablespoon Irish moss 1^ cups milk 

\yi cups cold water Vanilla 

Select nice clean pieces of the moss and discard all dis- 
colored ones. Soak for 20 minutes in the cold water and drain. 
Heat the milk in a double boiler, add the moss and cook not 
over 15 minutes, 10 minutes should be enough. If cooked too 
long the blanc mange will be too stiff. As soon as the milk 
thickens slightly, strain and flavor. Set aside to cool in small 
moulds or after dinner coffee cups. When firm, turn out on a 
glass saucer and serve with sugar and cream. The milk may 
be sweetened before adding the moss if preferred. This will 
make 6 small moulds. 

Wine Jelly. 

An attractive way to serve wine jelly, is to reserve part 
of the jelly when ready to chill, beating it until frothy with 
a Dover egg beater. Serve jelly in Apollinaris tumbler and 
put the frothy jelly on top. 



326 WHATANDHOW 



Rice Jelly. 

}6 cup rice 1 pint boiling water 

yi cup water y 2 teaspoon salt 

Wash the rice, and soak it for 2 hours in the cold water. 
Boil it fyi hour in the pint of boiling water into which the salt 
has been stirred. Strain through double cheese cloth and set 
away to stiffen. Serve with sugar and cream. This is very 
nourishing and good for babies as well as invalids. 

Tapioca Jelly. 

Soak y?. cup pearl tapioca over night in 1 cup cold water. 
In the morning, cook it in 1 pint boiling water until clear, 
adding 1 tablespoon sugar. Remove from the fire, add juice 
of ^ lemon, strain, and mould in small glasses or individual 
moulds. Serve with sugar and cream. 

Cocoa, With Egg. 

Beat an egg until very light and frothy. Add gradually, 
a cup of cocoa made by directions on the can, beating all the 
time. If the egg and cocoa are poured into a hot silver pitcher, 
when half the cocoa has been added, the drink will keep its 
heat without returning to the fire. Then add remainder of 
cocoa. 



327 



CHAPTER XXXII 



Kitchen and Laundry. 

For the kitchen floor there is nothing so easy to care 
for as a smooth surface, oiled, with 2 or 3 small rag rugs if 
desired. Linoleum makes a good covering for a kitchen floor, 
but is expensive and requires frequent washing. White 
enameled cloth makes the best covering for the tables, as it 
is easily washed off and will look well as long as it does not 
become stained. Do not keep too many things tucked away 
in closets; if hung up in view, they necessarily must be clean 
and shining. 

Tack a tape diagonally across one of the dresser doors 
inside; it is a convenient holder for extra kettle lids. It may 
cross back and forth several times, according to the size of the 
door. An assortment of sizes is desirable in these lids, from a 
cover for the smallest saucepan, to one for the largest kettle. 
Tin covers rust and require constant scouring to keep them 
bright, but they are inexpensive and can be easily replaced 
when too rusty to scour clean. 

A shelf over the sink is a great convenience. Screw 
small hooks on the under side to hang up brushes, strainers 
and small articles used around the sink. Keep a strainer in 
the sink and drain all the garbage; it will make a great differ- 
ence in the cleanliness of the garbage pail; especially is 
it a good plan in the winter, as it will not freeze to the pail. 
Keep a mop with a long handle within easy reach; an 
oiled floor needs to have spots of grease or water removed at 
once in order to have it satisfactory. Use no water on it, 
the mop becomes oily with constant use, and cleans the floor 
without the use of water. Dip it in good floor oil occasion- 
ally, and mop the entire floor. This should not be necessary 
more than twice a month. If linoleum is on the floor, use 
water with the mop, but no soap. Hot linseed oil applied 
occasionally to linoleum cleanses and brightens it, as well 
as adds to its wearing qualities. 



328 WHATANDHOW 



KITCHEN LIST. 

In making out the following list I have avoided expense 
and omitted numerous articles that might be classed as lux- 
uries, naming only those necessary for the equipment of a 
kitchen for a family of six persons. The number of each article 
may be increased or decreased to suit the individual need. Tin 
utensils are cheaper than enamel, but much harder to care 
for, while aluminum is more expensive still, but lasts for 
years. I have left a choice here, but advise as few tins as 
possible as involving much labor. 



Furniture. 

One table, with drop leaves. 

One table, small, within reach of the range. 

One chair, with seat 20 inches from floor, to use while 
working at a table. 

One small rocking chair, for the maid's comfort when 
her work is done. 

One small wall chair. 

A kitchen cabinet, unless the room is provided with ample 
dressers and closets. 

A range, for coal or gas, the latter is indispensable in hot 
weather. 

A good fireless cooker. 

One folding towel rack. 

Wooden Utensils. 

One small wooden chopping bowl. 

One small wooden pestle or potato masher. 

Two bread boards, different sizes. 

One small meat board. 

One zinc covered pastry board. 

One rolling pin. 

Two wooden spoons, one with slits for cake mixing. 

One flour scoop. 

One sugar scoop. 



KITCHEN AND LAUNDRY 329 



Enamel and Tin Ware. 

One enamel dish pan, round 

One enamel dish pan, oval. 

Two soup strainers, with extension handles. 

One puree sieve, with pestle. 

Two small strainers with fine mesh. 

One enameled colander. 

Three enameled spoons, assorted sizes. 

Two flat wire spoons, for mixing sauces. 

One wire whisk, for mixing sauces. 

One cream dipper, for removing cream from milk bottles. 

One Universal bread mixer. 

One Universal cake mixer. 

Three "Kleen Cut" cake pans, for layer cakes. 

Two square cake pans, Van Dusen, 1^2 inches deep. 

One angel food pan, or Turk's head. 

Two white enameled pie plates. 

Two white enameled pudding dishes, different sizes. 

Two perforated tin pie plates. 

Four enameled bowls, assorted sizes. 

One double boiler, or farina kettle, enameled or aluminum. 

Two vegetable kettles, enameled. 

Two saucepans, with long handles. 

Four omelet pans, assorted sizes. 

Two muffin tins, preferably heavy tin or enamelled. 

One popover tin. 

One quart measure. 

One hanging soap cup, white enamel. 

One tin salt box, with perforated top. 

One flour dredge box. 

One flour sieve. 

One apple corer. 

One nutmeg grater. 

One perforated cake turner. 

One perforated dipper, enameled. 

One flat bottomed enamel preserving kettle. 

Tin lids to fit all kettles. 

One enameled coffee pot. 



330 WHAT AND HOW 



One earthen tea pot. 
One tin bread box. 
One tin cake box. 
One tin skimmer. 
Two funnels, one small. 
One jar funnel. 

Miscellaneous. 

One vegetable press, with round perforated strainer. 

Two Dover egg beaters, one small for whipping cream. 

One can opener. 

One pair scissors, not too small. 

One pair pineapple snips. 

One potato scoop, for cutting balls. 

One Mayonnaise beater. 

One pair kitchen scales. 

One wire cake cooler. 

One nickleplated or aluminum tea kettle. 

One Enterprise or Universal meat chopper. 

One cherry stoner. 

Two brushes with handles for washing pots and kettles, 
the best have "Electric" on the back. 

One Scotch kettle, for deep fat frying. 

One soup kettle, preferably aluminum. 

Two aluminum sauce pans, with long handles. 

One aluminum frying pan, for making sauces. 

Two iron or steel frying pans, one small. 

One soapstone griddle. 

One steel griddle for gas stove. 

One waffle iron. 

Twelve muffin rings. 

Two smallest size scrubbing brushes, one for washing 
vegetables, the other for fruit. 

One small fibre bucket. 

One flat paint brush for buttering pans, or for brushing 
with egg or melted butter. 

Two Russia iron baking sheets, with hemmed edges, and 
ring. 



use. 



KITCHEN AND LAUNDRY 331 



Four Russia iron bread pans, small size. 

One Russia iron meat pan. 

One braising pan. 

One deep pan for boiling fish. 

One ham boiler. A small clothes boiler will answer. 

Two small Russia iron roasting pans. 

One cutter for latticed potatoes. 

One cutter for Saratoga potatoes. 

Knives and Forks. 

One large meat fork. 

One large carving knife. 

One small carving knife. 

One paring knife. 

One broad blade knife for omelets, etc. 

One spatula or Teller knife. 

Four kitchen knives, for kitchen meals. 

Two three tined forks, for making pastry and for general 

One steel for sharpening knives. 
Four forks, for kitchen meals. 
One double chopping knife. 

China and Glass. 

Two meat dishes. 

Four dinner plates. 

Four cups and saucers. 

Four heavy tumblers. 

One glass measuring cup. 

One aluminum measuring cup. 

One china sugar bowl. 

One china milk pitcher. 

One water pitcher, stone ware. 

Moulds for jelly and farina, assorted sizes. 

Moulds small, for individual service and timbales. 

Two casseroles, different sizes. 

One glass lemon squeezer. 

One glass dipper, for preserving, etc. 

Four bowls, heavy china or earthen ware, assorted sizes. 



332 WHATANDHOW 



THE LAUNDRY. 



The day seems not far distant when the family laundry will 
be disposed of by machinery run by electricity or water power, 
eliminating hot stoves, wash boards, iron holders and best of 
all, inexperienced laundresses. As yet the expense is too great, 
so that while some housekeepers are enjoying their up-to- 
date laundry work, to the large majority it is still an anticipa- 
tion, but a washing machine run by water power is within the 
reach of many women to whom an electric washer is impossible, 
and it does just as good work. Electric irons are decreasing in 
price and pay for themselves at once in the saving of time 
and labor. A gas ironer is cleaner and cooler than a stove, and 
costs, to run, no more than the stove, if as much. By its use, 
if the gas is used intelligently, the irons keep the right tem- 
perature, ready for use in a few moments after lighting. One 
person ironing uses but one burner; an iron heats while another 
one is being used, so that there is never a moment when the 
work is halted for irons to heat or cool. 

Ironing Boards. 

Cover the board with several thicknesses of newspapers, 
then with canton flannel; the muslin cover goes over this. 
The paper makes a softer and thicker padding than the 
blanket, which is generally used. 

To Wash Thin Dresses. 

6 auarts water 1 quarts bran 

Boil }4 hour, strain when cold. Use no soap nor starch, 
wash lawns and thin materials of all kinds in this. Especially 
useful for dark colors and black goods. 

To Remove Iron Rust. 

Cover the spot with Salts of Sorrel, pour boiling water 
over it, rub gently and the spot will disappear. Rinse at once 
in clear water. 

Grass Stain. 

Alcohol, or common molasses will remove grass stain. 



KITCHEN AND LAUNDRY 333 



Tar, or Axle Grease. 

Cover with lard, rub it in well and lay aside for an hour. 
Wash in tepid water and soap. 

Machine Oil 

Must always be washed out with soap and cold water. 
Hot water sets oil stains. 

Coffee, Tea, Chocolate and Cocoa Stains. 

May be scalded out. Do not allow stains to remain on 
table linen, but remove them at once. 

Paint. 

Soak in turpentine or benzine. Hang in full sunlight. 

Perspiration Stain. 

Wash out with soap and water and expose to the sunlight. 

Scorch. 

Wet spot with cold water, and expose to sunlight. 

Wine Stain. 

Cover at once with salt, wash out in boiling water. 

Mildew. 

Cover with salt, wet with lemon juice and expose to the 
sun. 

Vaseline. 
Use turpentine. To remove turpentine hang out in the 
air and sun. 

Blood Stains. 
Soak in cold water until stains turn brown, wash out in 
cold water and soap. 

Old Stains. 

When stains have once been through the wash, and 
especially if ironed in, they are very difficult to remove. Wet 



334 WHATANDHOW 



with cold water and cover with glycerine and let stand for 
three hours; wash in cold water and soap and dry where the 
sun will shine upon the place. It may be necessary to repeat. 



Javelle Water. 

Javelle water is useful for removing stains, but requires 
to be thoroughly washed out at once, as it contains chloride 
of lime. 

To Wash Blankets. 

Choose a warm sunny day. To wash in a machine, 
make a good suds with warm, but not hot water and 
the best of laundry soaps. If blankets have been separated, 
put two in the machine, or if the pair has not been separated, 
one. Turn machine for 6 minutes. Have ready a tub of 
water of the same temperature as that in the machine, un- 
screw wringer so that blanket will go through, and wring 
into tub of water; put in another pair of blankets, and do the 
same. Now run off the water in the machine, fill with clear 
water, carefully keeping water at same temperature, souse 
blankets up and down in the tub, squeeze but do not twist. 
Now, turning the wringer backwards, run a pair of blankets 
back into the machine and turn it three minutes. Wring out 
and hang on the line with the stripes running across line. 
This, to prevent color from running into blanket. It will be 
well for you to allow an assistant to do the hanging out, so 
that the other pair of blankets may be returned to the 
machine and rinsed before the water cools. If blankets are 
much soiled, change the suds after each pair and do not at- 
tempt to wash in dirty water or your blankets will be 
streaked. Of course, finish rinsing the first pair before start- 
ing the second. Keep water as near the temperature of out- 
side air as is possible to do. A sudden change of temperature 
will harden the woolen fibre and cause blankets to shrink. 

If a machine is not available, use four tubs, do not rub 
soap on the blankets, and never twist or rub them. Squeeze 
suds through thoroughly. 



KITCHEN AND LAUNDRY 335 



Madras and Net Curtains. 

Make bran suds, as described for thin goods and use no 
starch or soap. If without curtain stretchers, tack a sheet to 
the floor, and pin curtains on it, stretching into shape. Never 
iron thin curtains. 

Lace Curtains. 

Lace curtains may be washed in the bran water. If very 
much soiled, soak over night in suds made with a good soap, 
rinse well, and then squeeze through bran water. Stretch on 
frames. 



When You Make Cake! 



W 



Nothing gives such wonderful re- 
sults in home made cake as Swans 
Down Cake Flour! Try it in any 
good recipe. You can have lighter, 
whiter, finer, better cake — pie 
crust — pastry, just as you long to 
have it. 

Swans Down costs only a few cents 
each making, and yet it saves all 
the costly waste of cake dis- 
appointments. 

"Cake Secrets", an authoritative 
booklet by Janet McKenzie Hill, 
gladly sent for ten cents. Illus- 
trated. 

Swans Down has been the 
grocers' choice for 25 years 

IGLEHEART BROTHERS 

Evansville, Indiana 

Established 1856 

Also manufacturers of 

Swans Down Wheat Bran 

Nature's Laxative Food 

SWANS DOWN 

Prepared (Not Self-Rising) 

CAKE FLOUR 

Preferred by Housewives for 25 Years 



^JJ 



I 



PttNSDOWN 



-» 






■VVV 



& : 



is. i _a • 
MA.JL 



i > 



L> 






\ f; 



T 



RECOMMENDED AND SOLD BY 

Any good Grocer. 



Before attempting to make any cakes in this book, read this article. It may prevent a 
cake failure, thereby saving the waste of ingredients. These are the four most important 
steps in cake-making, and if followed carefully will help you to make really, good cake. 

Qood Qakc Baking 

SELECTING 
^ INGREDIENTS 

- — ^\.7 j^^fete togt A good cake can- 

not be made with 
\, poor ingredients. 

mm For the best results 

mm SHI choose only the 

purest materials ob- 
tainable. Cake is a 
food that contains 
the most nutritive 
elements, such as 
eggs, butter, milk, 
sugar, flour, etc. 
Cake is more deli- 
\^ ^"" cate than bread and 

^8Sj>||| ' , needs a more deli- 

^"~~'*-~--— — ■-___ --"""' cate flour. This 

"" * "* flour is Swans 

Down Cake Flour, 
soft, white and velvety, made especially for cake and pastry making. Swans Down costs 
but a few cents more per cake and yet it insures against disappointment and costly cake 
failures. Lighter, whiter, finer, better cakes if you use 
Swans Down. 



MEASURING 




All ingredients called for in any good recipe must be 
accurately mixed and all measurements should be level. 
This is necessary in order to obtain the same results in each 
baking. The standard one-half pint measuring cup should 
be used and the recipe followed exactly. 



CAREFUL MIXING 
It is necessary in successful cake 
making that all ingredients be perfectly 
measured and utensils and cake tins 
be ready before beginning to mix the 
cake. Always beat the shortening to 
a cream before adding any sugar. Add 
sugar gradually, creaming the mixture 
meanwhile. Add a little sifted 
Swans Down Cake Flour, with baking 
powder added, then a little milk and 
so on alternately until all the flour and 
milk is used. Beat the batter, never 
stirring, after each addition of flour 
and milk. Add flavoring. The stiffly-beaten egg-wbites should next be folded in very 
carefully if recipe calls for same. Work quickly, but carefully, in mixing your cake. 




CORRECT OVEN HEAT 

The heat of oven for cake making is of very 
great importance. There are some general guides 
for temperature which may be profitably observed. 
All thin layer, small cakes and cookies require a 
hot oven (350-375° F.) Thick layer and cakes baked 
in a loaf require a moderate oven (325-350° F.) 
while sponge cakes and angel cakes require a slow 
oven (250-300° F.) Fruit cakes require even a 
slower oven (225-250° F.) 





The helpful hints above are taken from "Cake Secrets," an 
authoritative booklet on cake making by Janet McKenzie Hill, 
editor of American Cookery Magazine. You are welcome to 
copy, full of original recipes, directions, illustrations — for 10c 
sent to Igleheart Brothers, Evansville, Indiana, Department G-6. 
Best grocers everywhere have Swans Down Cake Flour. If you 
cannot get it, write us. Use it in your cake and pastry making. 



Always use Swans Down Cake Flour in all cake recipes given in this book and elsewhere. 
It insures lighter, whiter, finer cake. 



Cooked Chicken of the Finest Quality 




Fine for Salad, 

Sandwiches 

and Creamed 

Chicken 



PACKED BY 

Richardson & Robbins Co. 

DOVER, - DELAWARE 



Why will CRISCO 
Improve Your 
Cooking? 




CRISCO is sold the right way, by nmt 
weight, in sanitary containers, nmvmr 
in bulk. One pound and larger sizes. 
At all good grocers. 



—Because CRISCO is 100% rich— a 
solid white cooking fat produced 
by hardening edible vegetable oil. 
This richness accounts for the 
tender flakiness of Crisco pastry 
and biscuits, and the butter -like 
quality of Crisco cakes. (Add a 
teaspoonful of salt for each cupful 
of Crisco in Cake.) 

— Because CRISCO has no taste, 
no color, no odor. It does not make 
foods look, taste nor smell greasy. 
It lets the natural food flavors 
prevail. 

—Because CRISCO is a digestible 
fat. This is because it is strictly 
vegetable. The richest fried foods 
and pastries can be eaten safely if 
they are shortened with Crisco. 

Try CRISCO and see for yourself 
what an improvement it is. 



FOOD AND COOKERY 

FOR THE 

Sick and Convalescent 

By FANNIE MERRITT FARMAR 



THE COMPLETE COOK BOOK 

By MARION HARLAND 



THE NEW HOSTESS OF TODAY 
A Book of Unusual Recipes 

By LINDA HULL LARNED 



WHAT AND HOW 

(SECOND EDITION) 

A Practical and Economical Cook Book 

By MRS. WALTER D. BUSH 



THESE BOOKS FOR SALE BY 

The Greenwood Bookshop 

Wilmington, Delaware 



337 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX 



A 

PAGE 

Absorbent Paper 11 

Albumen, Orange 320 

" Water 319 

" " with beef extract. . 319 

Almonds, to blanch 15 

■ candied 273 

" salted 196 

Ambrosia 152 

Angel Parfait 187 

Angel Dreams 277 

Apollinaris Lemonade 28 

Apple Compote 281 

" Cups 163 

" Custard 144 

■ Dumplings 162 

" Dumplings, steamed 162 

" Fritters 210 

" Meringue 143 

" Pie 176 

■ Sauce Croquettes 262 

■ Sauce 284 

" Snow 152 

" Trifle 152 

Apples, Baked I, II, III 283 

" Buttered 162 

" Dried 284 

" Jellied 154 

" Stewed 144 

Asparagus 102 

Au gratin defined 12 



B 



Bacon, crisp 206 

Baking, definition of 9 

Baking Sheets, Russia Iron 14 

Bananas 279 

Banana Charlotte 150 

Banana Fritters 210 

Banbury Tarts 181 

Basting 13 

Batter defined 13 

" a la Creole 210 

" for fruit fritters 210 

Bavarian Cream 156 

" " Pineapple 155 

" " Raspberry 156 

" " Strawberry 156 

Beans, baked in fireiess cooker 310 



PAGE 

Beans, Black, soup 39 

" Boston baked 103 

" Butter 103 

" Lima dried 103 

" " dried 103 

" String 102 

Beauregard Cod 53 

Beef, to select 64 

Beef, braised 65 

" en Casserole 308 

" Corned Minced 190 

" Corned, with egg 190 

" frizzled 192 

" fresh chipped 192 

" mince of 189 

" roast 65 

" pot roast 66 

" roll 70 

" sliced 67 

Beef Tea 321 

Beets 104 

" pickled 302 

Berries 279 

Berry Surprise 186 

Biscuit, dough 67 

" potato 235 

" quick 235 

tea 235 

Blackberry Vinegar 29 

Blanc Mange, Chocolate 149 

Irish Moss 325 

Blankets, to wash 334 

Blood Stains, to remove 333 

Boiling 9 

Bordeaux Sauce 304 

Bottling and Sealing 14 

Boquet, Soup 17 

Braising 11 

Bread and Bread Making 230 

Bread and Rolls 230 

Bread, brown 232 

" griddle 232 

" milk 231 

" nut 249 

" potato 232 

" Pudding I, II 145 

" raisin 249 

" rye 232 

" Southern batter 237 

" whole wheat 232 

Brewis 226 



338 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX 



PAGE 

Broiling 9 

" pan 9 

Broth, chicken I, II 820 

III 321 

" " jellied 321 

" clam 320 

* mutton 322 

" Scotch 73 

Brown Betty 1 143 

" II 144 

Brussels Sprouts 104 

" " scalloped 104 

Buckwheat Cakes 243 

Butter Brush 16 

Butter to wash 15 

Buttered Crumbs 11 

Butters for Sandwiches 314 

Butter Substitute 242 



Cabbage . 105 

u au gratin 105 

■ Italian 105 

* salad 105 

Cafe Frappe" . 188 

Cake 250 

" Angel 257 

" Boston Favorite 257 

" Caramel 253 

" Chocolate 253 

" Drexel Layer 251 

" Fruit I, II 255 

a Gingerbread 258 

Ideal 258 

Raisin 258 

" " without eggs 258 

u Gold I, II 256 

" Huckleberry 257 

" Orange 252 

« Poverty 259 

" Quick 254 

" Richer layer 252 

" Sedgeley 254 

8 Silver 256 

v Sponge 253 

b Sponge Cream 256 

■ Strawberry Short, I, II, HI... 261 

" Washington Pie 259 

" White Mountain 252 

Cakes 

Almond Rings 264 

Chocolate Sponge 260 

Cocoa Buns 260 



PAGE 

Cookies, Boston 265 

" Brandywine 266 

" Christmas 262 

" Minquedale 263 

" Molasses 262 

Cookies, Nuts and Raisins . . . 262 

Peanut 263 

Derries 261 

Ginger Gems 260 

Ginger Snaps 265 

Jackson Jumbles 264 

Macaroons 264 

Macaroon Powder 264 

Nuggets 259 

Oatmeal Wafers 265 

Ringle Roses 265 

Sand Tarts 263 

Scotch cakes 266 

Soft ginger 266 

Spice cakes 260 

Sponge cakes 260 

Calf's Head, mould of 192 

" " soup 34 

" Liver 78 

Canapes and Sandwiches 312 

Canape Anchovy 312 

■ Bellevue 312 

" Cheese 313 

" Crab 313 

" Daisy 313 

" Manhattan 312 

" Sardines or Caviare 312 

Candy 269 

" Bryn Mawr Penutchie 273 

■ ButterScotch 272 

" Candied Almonds 273 

" Caramels 274 

" Cream Mints 270 

" Cream Walnuts 271 

" Date Creams 1 271 

II 271 

Candy Fondant 269 

Coffee 270 

. " " colored 270 

maple 269 

" " pink 271 

" " uncooked 270 

" Fudge I, II 273 

" Maple Penutchie 274 

" Mint Marshmallows 270 

" Molasses Taffy 272 

" Nut Creams 271 

" Nut Molasses 272 

" Peanut Brittle 272 

u Pecan Pralines 274 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX 



S39 



PAGE 

Candy, Peppermint Drops 270 

8 Taffv 272 

" Tie-Tac 274 

■ Vinegar 271 

Canning 294 

Canned Fruits 

" Cherries 295 

" Peaches 294 

Pears 1 294 

" II 295 

" Pineapples 295 

" Quinces 295 

" Rhubarb 295 

Small Fruits 295 

Blackberries 295 

Canned Vegetables 296 

Cold Packed... 297 

" " Beets 297 

Sweet Red 

Peppers 297 

" ■ Tomatoes 296 

Tomatoes and 

Okra 296 
" whole 296 

Cantelopes 279 

" sweet pickled 300 

Capers, defined 17 

Carmelize, To 12 

Carrots 106 

Casserole and Fireless Cooker 306 

8 Beef 308 

8 Calf's Liver 311 

8 Chicken 307 

8 ■ with rice border. 308 

8 Creole 308 

" Lamb Chops 309 

8 Minced Veal 308 

Cauliflower 106 

Cauliflower, puree of 43 

8 au gratin 106 

Celery 106 

8 stewed I, II 107 

* Toast 207 

Cereals 225 

Chafing Dish 275 

* " Angel Dreams 277 

8 " Creamed Chicken 275 

Lobster 275 

8 " English Monkey 276 

8 " Sauce 275 

8 " Sardines grilled 277 

8 " Scotch Woodcock 276 

8 " Suggestions for the . . . 277 
8 8 Welsh Rabbit I, II... 276 



PAGB 

Charlotte Russe 1 159 

■ II 159 

■ III 159 

" IV 160 

Cheese 

" Balls 215 

8 Cottage 207 

8 Cream 209 

8 Croquettes 202 

" Dainties 207 

" Fondu 208 

" Moulds 208 

8 Parmesan 228 

" Pudding 208 

8 Souffle* 209 

" Toast 209 

Cherries 280 

■ Spiced 301 

Cherry Dumplings 163 

Chestnuts, to shell 15 

Chicken, To select 82 

8 a la King 194 

baked fricassee 85 

8 boiled 83 

8 broiled 84 

8 broth, jellied 193 

8 creamed 194, 324 

creamed in chafing dish . . . 275 

8 Croquettes 1 199 

II 200 

fricassee 86 

8 fried 85 

8 jellied 193 

Marion Harland's pilau of 87 

" mould 194 

8 omelet 324 

8 pie 1 88 

pie II 88 

pie III 88 

8 puree 325 

8 roast 83 

8 salad 136 

saut6 a la Creole 86 

smothered 84 

8 soup I, II 35 

stewed 85 

Chili Dressing 131 

Chili Sauce 305 

Chives, defined 17 

Chocolate 26 

Blanc Mange 149 

Chocolate Pudding 145 

Chocolate Pudding, bread 144 

Chocolate Stains, to remove 333 

Chowder, Clam I, II 38 

8 kornlet 43 



340 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX 



PAGE 

Chow Chow 303 

Chutney 300 

Clams, to open 59 

Clam bisque 37 

" " with tomato 37 

" Chowder I, II 38 

" Cocktails 58 

" Fritters 211 

" Soup 1 36 

" II 37 

Clams, scalloped 1 59 

II 59 

" steamed 59 

Clinkers, coal 17 

Club Sandwich 1 212 

II 213 

Cocoa 26 

Cocoa, to make 26 

Cocoa stains, to remove 333 

" with egg 326 

Cod, Beauregard 53 

Codfish balls 52 

" boiled 45 

- " creamed 52 

8 creamed in ramekins 53 

" Souffle 52 

Coffee 24 

" after dinner 25 

" boiled 24 

Coffee Cream 150 

" filtered 25 

u iced 1 30 

II 30 

" infusion 15 

" percolated 24 

" souffle" 155 

" stains, to remove 333 

" to make three cups 26 

■ Vienna 26 

Cold Desserts 142 

Cold Meat, to serve 190 

Cold Slaw 105 

Compotes 

" apple 281 

" apple, whole 282 

" fruit 281 

" fruit with rice 283 

" green gage 282 

" peach 282 

" pear 282 

" pineapple 282 

" syrup for 281 

Consomme 33 

" quick 33 

Cooking, Methods of 9 



PAGE 

Corn Bread Baltimore Inn 237 

" " white meal 236 

" " yellow meal 236 

Corn Meal Gems 239 

Corn fritters 108 

" green 107 

" green, boiled 107 

" green, stewed 107 

" pudding 1 107 

II 108 

Corned Beef, with egg 190 

" " minced 190 

Cornstarch Float 150 

Cottage Cheese 207 

Cottage Cheese Pudding 208 

Cottage Pie 189 

Cottage Pudding 164 

Crabapple Jelly 

Crabs, a la Newburg 195 

Crabs, to boil 63 

" Devilled I, II, III 63 

" Soft Shell 50 

Cranberry Jelly 1 285 

" ' " II 285 

Sauce 286 

Cream Soups 40 

Cream, to whip 16 

Creamed Lobster 62 

Croquettes 199 

" apple sauce 202 

Bean 201 

" Cheese 202 

" Chicken 1 199 

II 200 

Hominy 204 

" Lamb 201 

Meat 1 200 

" II 201 

u Oyster 1 202 

" II 203 

" Potato 201 

Rice I, II 204 

" To shape 13 

Veal 201 

Crullers I, II 248 

Crumbs, buttered 11 

Crumb, Egg and Crumb 11 

Crumbs, Fresh 13 

Crumbs dry 13 

Cucumber Boats 132 

Cups 132 

Cucumbers 108 

fried 108 

Curtains, To wash 335 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX 



341 



PAGE 

Custard, boiled 147 

" baked 147 

8 Caramel, baked 148 

boiled 148 

" Cup 147, 325 

Cutlets, souffle 191 

" to shape 13 

Veal 75 



PAGE 

3, scrambled 217 

8 shirred 217 

" Spanish 219 

" tomato 219 

Egg Plant, baked 109 

" " fried 109 

" " scalloped 109 

English Monkey 27G 



D 

Dessert, quick, a 153 

Devilled eggs 135 

Dough defined 14 

Doughnuts 1 247 

II 247 

Quick 1 248 

8 II 248 

Dredge, To 12 

Dripping 11 

Dry Crumbs 13 

Duck, Roast 91 

" Wild 92 

Dumplings for Soups and Stews .... 40 



E 

Easter Pudding 160 

Eccles Cakes 181 

■ Egg and crumb 11 

" lemonade 319 

' " nogg 320 

" Sauce 54 

" Toast 324 

216 

8 a la Martin 217 

8 " " Newburg 218 

8 baked 221 

8 baked souffl6 of 220 

" boiled 216 

8 club 219 

■ coddled 216 

8 Daffodils 220 

" devilled 136 

" dropped, with white sauce .... 219 

8 en surprise 220 

" fried with bacon 217 

" Holland 218 

8 in a nest 217 

8 luncheon 218 

" mince of ham with 218 

8 omelet 221 

8 poached 216 



F 

Farina 228 

Fat, Testing for frying 10 

" to clarify 11 

Fig Pudding 166 

Filllings, caramel 253 

" chocolate 268 

8 Orange 268 

8 Sedgeley 254 

" tuttifrutti 268 

" White Mountain 252 

Fireless Cooker 309 

" Baked Beans in ... . 310 
8 " Beef kidneys stewed 

in 310 

Fish, To select 44 

Fish and Meat Sauces 94 

Fish, baked 46 

" baked stuffed 46 

8 bay trout 44 

8 blue fish 44 

■ boiled 44 

" boiled whole 45 

" butter fish 44 

" cod, boiled 45 

8 cod, salt, boiled 45 

" cutlets 49 

8 fillets of 51 

8 flakes, creamed 54 

8 Finnan Haddie 54 

" Flounder 45 

8 flounder, fillet of 50 

" fried 49 

8 " cutlets 49 

8 haddock 44 

8 halibut, baked 1 47 

" " « II 48 

8 Creole 51 

8 herring 44 

8 mackerel 44 

salt 54 

8 " creamed, salt 54 

" moulded 51 

8 perch 44 



342 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX 



PAGE 

Fish, porgies 44 

" puree 43 

" salmon (smoked) 55 

* scallop 53 

" sea bass 45 

" shad, broiled 49 

" shad, planked 48 

" shad roe 49 

" smoked 55 

u sheep's head 44 

" shell 55 

u smelts 49 

u stuffed 50 

" stuffing I, II 47 

" white, smoked 55 

Flummery 149 

Folding in 12 

Fondant..... 269 

French dressing 130 

Fritters and Pancakes 209 

Fritters, apple 1 ,11 210 

u banana 210 

" batter for fruit 210 

" batter Creole 210 

u Clam 211 

* kornlet 212 

Peach 211 

Queen 211 

Fruit, Fresh, Preserved and Canned 279 

Fruit Charlotte 161 

u Compotes 281 

" dish of 281 

* press 286 

« shells 176 

Frying, Rules for 10 



PAGE 

Griddle Cakes 242 

u bread crumb 245 

" " buckwheat 243 

" corn meal 245 

" corn slappers 244 

" " flannel 243 

" green corn 245 

" * oatmeal 244 

" rice I, II 244 

" " wholewheat 243 

Griddle, spapstone 15 

Griddle, steel 15 

Gumbo 35 



H 



Halibut baked 1 47 

" II 48 

" Creole 51 

Ham 79 

" boiled 79 

" baked 80 

" chipped 80 

" cream, mince of 190 

" fried 80 

" minced, with eggs 191 

" slices of, cooked 80 

Hamburg Steak 70 

Hominy, boiled 110 

" breakfast 110 

" croquettes 110 

grits 110 

pudding 110 

Hot Beverages and Cold Drinks 24 



Garlic defined 17 

Gas, Time table for gas range 19 

Gas, To use economically 18 

Gelatine 152 

Ginger Pears 291 

Goose, roast 91 

Graham muffins 239 

u puffs 240 

Grape Fruit 280 

Grape juice 29 

Grapes 280 

Grass Stains, To remove 332 

Gravies 99 

Grease, Axle 333 



Ice Cream and Frozen Fruits 182 

Ice Cream, To freeze 182 

Ice Cream, banana 183 

" bisque 184 

* " chocolate 184 

" " frozen custard 183 

" with fruit 183 

" " maple sugar 184 

" " pineapple 184 

" " strawberry 184 

8 Vanilla 1 183 

u « " II 183 

Icings and Fillings 267 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX 



343 



PAGE 

Icing, boiled 267 

" chocolate 1 267 

" " II 267 

" cocoa 267 

" coffee 268 

" maple sugar 267 

" orange 267 

" pink 268 

" plain white 268 

Indian Meal Mush I, II 229 

Irish Moss 819 

" Blanc Mange 325 

Irish Stew 72 

Iron Rust, To remove 332 

Ironing Board 332 

Italian Cream 155 



Jam, blackberry 289 

" currant and raspberry 289 

" green gooseberry and raspberry 289 

" raspberry 289 

Javelle Water 334 

Jellied apples 154 

■ chicken 193 

" oranges 156 

Jelly 286 

Jelly Bags, To make 14 

Jelly, apple 288 

" crabapple 288 

" cranberry 1 285 

II 285 

" currant 287 

" currant and raspberry 288 

" grape 288 

" lemon 157 

■ mint 288 

" orange 157 

" quince 288 

" rice 326 

■ tapioca 326 

" tomato 134 

" wine 157, 325 

Jelly with fruit 157 

Jelly to mould 158 

Junket, coffee 161 

Junket desserts 161 

Junket, vanilla 161 

Junket, with whipped cream 161 



K 

PAGE 

Kellogg and Cary 68 

Kidneys, Beef, stewed 205 

Kidneys, Beef, stewed in fireless 

cooker 310 

Kidneys, fried 205 

" Lamb 1 206 

" II 206 

" Omelet 223 

Veal 206 

Kitchen and Laundry 327 

Kitchen List 328 



Lamb chops 74 

" chops, breaded 74 

" chops, pan broiled 74 

" cream mince of 190 

u croquettes 201 

" crown roast 72 

" Roast 71 

Lamb and Mutton 71 

Laundry, The 332 

Lemon Cups 191 

Lemonade 1 27 

II 27 

Appollinaris 28 

Egg 319 

■ English 29 

* Pineapple 28 

u Syrup 27 

Lettuce 109 

Liver, Calf's 78 

" Terrapin 206 

Lobster, To open 60 

a a la Newburg 195 

" baked 61 

u broiled whole 60 

" creamed 62 

" cutlets 62 

" farci 62 

" fried 61 

" scalloped 62 

Luncheon and Supper 189 



M 

Macaroni 227 

Macaroni, baked 227 



344 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX 



PAGE 

Macaroni, Baked with cheese 227 

" boiled 227 

" Italian 228 

" with cheese 227 

Macaroon Souffle 164 

Macedoine Pineapple 148 

Machine Oil, To remove 333 

Mackerel, salt 54 

" " creamed 54 

Manhattan Club Sandwich 213 

Manhattan Steak 68 

Marinate, To 12 

Marmalade, apple and quince 289 

ginger pear 291 

" grape fruit I, II 290 

u green gage 291 

orange 291 

u peach 290 

" pear 291 

" plum conserve 291 

Mayonnaise Dressing 130 

Measuring 18 

Meat, Cold, Serving of 190 

■ Croquettes 1 200 

II 201 

" pie 69 

" Soup, How to use 32 

Mildew, To remove 833 

Milk, If disagrees 320 

Mill, To 12 

Mince Meat 177 

Mint Cup 27 

" Tulip 27 

Mould and Chill, To 14 

Moulded Snow 149 

Mouse, Coffee 187 

Mousse, defined 182 

" Golden 187 

" To mould 182 

* Pineapple 187 

" Strawberry 186 

Muffins, Waffles and Griddle Cakes 238 

Muffins 1 238 

II 238 

■ Blueberry 238 

English 239 

" Graham 239 

" Hominy 239 

" Kornlet 241 

" Rice 238 

WholeWheat 240 

Mush Bread 237 

Mush, Indian Meal I, II 229 

Mushrooms, Baked Ill 

Mushrooms, Stewed Ill 



PAGE 

Mutton, braised 71 

" Boiled leg of 72 

" Chops, breaded 74 

Chops, English 74 

" Duck 72 



N 



Nutmeg, Dash of 12 



O 

Oatmeal Mush with apples 323 

Okra Ill 

" Creole Style 112 

" Stewed I, II 112 

" with tomatoes 112 

Omelet, American 224 

" au fines herbes 224 

" Baked 198 

" Bread 222 

Chicken 324 

French 221 

Kidney 223 

Kornlet 199 

" Mushroom 221 

" Oyster 224 

Parsley 223 

Spanish 222 

" with Bacon 223 

" Minced Ham 223 

" " Fried Onions 223 

■ " Tomato Sauce 222 

Onions, Baked, 1 113 

" Baked, II 113 

" Souffle" 113 

" Stewed 112 

Onion Juice, To extract 12 

Oranges 280 

" Creole style 151 

Jellied 156 

Oven, The Coal Range 7 

" Temperature 7 

8 Gas 8 

Oysters and Clams Served Raw .... 58 

Oyster Bisque 37 

" Broiled 57 

" Cocktails 58 

" Creamed 55 

" Croquettes 1 202 

" " II 203 

u Croustade 56 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX 



345 



PAGE 

Oysters, fried 58 

kornlet 198 

" panned 57 

■ patties 58 

pickled 203 

" roast 56 

" sauce 84 

" scalloped 56 

" soup 36 

" stewed 55 



Paint, To remove 333 

Panada 323 

Pancakes 212 

Jelly 212 

Paprika, defined 17 

Paraffin or Parowax 287 

Parfait, defined 182 

" Angel 187 

Parmesan Cheese 228 

Parsley Butter 121 

■ Dried 318 

■ To keep 318 

Partridges 92 

Pastry 172 

" To bake 172 

" Plain 174 

" Puff Paste 173 

" Shells 176 

8 Suet 174 

8 Summer 174 

Patties 175 

Peach Cobbler 176 

" Cream Pudding 150 

8 Cups 163 

8 Fritters 211 

u Mangoes 301 

Peaches, 280 

" dried 284 

8 Preserved I, II 293 

Peanuts Salted 197 

Pears and Plums 280 

8 spiced 301 

Peas, green, 113 

8 " canned 114 

" * with cream sauce 114 

Pepper, Dash of 12 

Peppers, Stuffed 114 

" Stuffed, Sauce for 114 

8 Sweet Red, Canned 297 

8 with sweetbread stuffing. . 115 



PAGE 

Pepper Sauce I, II 302 

Perspiration Stains, To remove 333 

Pickle, Oil 303 

* Pretty 303 

Pickled Beets 302 

" Cantelopes 300 

" Cherries 299 

" Onions 304 

" Peaches 299 

" Peach Mangoes 301 

" Peaches, whole 299 

" Plums 299 

" Ripe Tomatoes 302 

■ yellow " 301 

Pickles. 

" Bordeaux Sauce 304 

Chili " 305 

Chow Chow 303 

" Chutney 300 

" Cold Tomato 304 

8 green tomato soy 304 

" Sweet and Sour 299 

Pie 

8 apple 176 

" apple custard 180 

" apple, French 177 

" apple, Irish 176 

" Banberry tarts and 181 

" filling for 181 

" barred 178 

" blackberry 177 

" chicken I, II, III 88 

" cocoanut I, II 179 

" cottage 189 

" lemon custard 1 178 

" " " II 179 

8 " meringue 178 

" making 174 

" meat 69 

" pumpkin 1 179 

" II 180 

" sweet potato custard 180 

8 To glaze a 173 

8 veal 78 

8 Washington 259 

Pimento, defined 17 

Pineapple cream 154 

" Lemonade 28 

" Macedoine 148 

8 meringue 154 

Plum Pudding 166 

8 " frozen 188 

Plums, sweet pickled 

Poke Stalks 102 

Popovers 241 

Pork, To select 78 



346 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX 



PAGE 

Pork Chops 79 

8 crown roast of 79 

8 roast loin of 79 

8 roast tenderloin of 79 

Potatoes au gratin 126 

8 baked 121 

balls 124 

8 balls 203 

" boiled 121 

" boiled in jackets 122 

8 cakes 126 

8 cone 123 

■ creamed 125 

" croquettes 201 

8 Duchess 122 

u French fried 126 

8 hashed browned 125 

* hashed creamed 125 

8 Kilcannon 122 

8 latticed 126 

8 Lyonnaise 125 

8 mashed 122 

8 new 124 

8 omelet 123 

8 on half shell 123 

8 Plainficld 123 

8 pudding 124 

8 Saratoga Chips 126 

" Saute* 126 

* Souffle* 124 

Poultry and Game 82 

Poultry, To select 82 

Preserves 292 

Preserving kettles 286 

Prune Pudding 142 

Prunes 285 

8 raw 285 

Puddings 

Pudding, apple custard 144 

8 meringue 143 

* " tapioca I, II 146 

8 Bread I, II 145 

8 Brown Betty 1 143 

8 II 144 

8 cheese 208 

8 cherry tapioca 146 

8 chocolate 145 

" chocolate, steamed 164 

8 " bread 144 

8 cottage 164 

8 cottage cheese 208 

8 Easter 160 

8 fig 166 

8 fruit 167 

" kornlet 199 

8 peach cream 150 



PAGE 

Pudding, plum 166 

8 plum frozen 188 

* prune 142 

8 Queen of 142 

" rice 142 

" rice, frozen 186 

" Rhubarb Betty 143 

8 Roger Rock 163 

8 sauces 168 

8 sago 164 

8 snow 158 

8 St. James 166 

8 suet 165 

8 tapioca cream 146 

Punch, fruit 28 

8 Victoria 28 

Purees 43 

Puree of Cauliflower 43 

" " chestnuts 43 

8 " fish remnants 43 

8 " lima beans 43 

8 " mushrooms 43 

" " peas 43 



Queen fritters 21 

Queen of Puddings 142 



R 



Rabbits, stewed 93 

Radishes 116 

Radish tulips 116 

Raisin bread 249 

Ramekins, defined 14 

Raspberry Bavarian Cream 156 

trifle 151 

8 vinegar 29 

Reed birds 92 

Rhubarb Betty 143 

" stewed 284 

Rice, boiled I, II 115 

8 baked with cheese 228 

8 griddle cakes 244 

8 Croquettes I, II 204 

" jelly 326 

" moulded 116 

" muffins 238 

8 pudding 142 

8 " frozen 186 

8 Spanish 116 

Rissoles I, II 204 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX 



347 



PAGE 

Roasting meats 9 

Roe, creamed I, II 195 

" shad 49 

Rolls, bread 233 

" Rockford 233 

" pocketbook 233 

" potato 233 

" potato puff 234 

" squash 234 

Rusks, Crullers and Doughnuts .... 246 

Rusks 246 

" clover 246 

" potato 246 



Sago pudding 164 

Salad, a la Chantecler 137 

" apple and nut 133 

" asparagus 132 

" asparagus tip 133 

u Bellevue 137 

" cauliflower 133 

" celery 133 

u cherry 134 

a chicken I, n 136 

u chiffonade 134 

u crab 140 

" Christmas 137 

" cucumber boat 132 

" cucumber cup 132 

" cucumber jelly 133 

" daisy 132 

■ egg I, II, III 135 

u fruit 141 

u halibut 140 

" lobster. 140 

u macedoine I, II 139 

" pineapple 140 

" potato I, II 138 

" salmon mould 139 

" shrimp 140 

" spring 138 

" tomato I, II, III 136 

" tomato and crab 136 

" tomato ielly 134 

" Waldorf 141 

" white grape and nut 134 

Salad Dressings 130 

boiled 139 

" boiled cream 131 

Chili 131 

" " cream 131 

" u French 130 



PAGE 

Salad Dressings, fruit 141 

" " mayonnaise 130 

" sour cream 131 

Salads 130 

* plain 131 

Sally Lunn 236 

" " quick 236 

Salmon, boiled, with egg sauce 53 

" cutlets 54 

loaf 52 

" " sauce for 52 

■ mould 139 

" smoked 55 

Salted almonds 196 

" peanuts 197 

Saratoga Chips 126 

Sandwiches 313 

Sandwich fillings 314 

Sandwiches, chicken 323 

" Club 1 212 

u II 213 

" Manhattan Club 213 

u raw beef 323 

u u " toasted 323 

Sandwich Butters 315 

u u Anchovy 315 

u u caviar 315 

" " cheese 315 

" u chutney 315 

" lobster 315 

" olive 314 

" " parsley 314 

* " tartar I, II 314 

" " water cress 315 

Sardines, grilled 277 

Sardine Relish 197 

Sauces for Fish and Meat 94 

Sauce, Bechamel 94 

" bread 95 

u brown 95 

u caper 95 

" Chili 305 

« Creole 99 

" cucumber 97 

" currant jelly 99 

" egg 95 

« HoUandaise I, II 98 

" a la Hotel Strand 100 

" Maitre d'Hotel 100 

a " u hot 99 

a Mexican 98 

" mint 98 

" mushroom I, II 96 

" piquante 97 

" Rockford 95 



348 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX 



PAGE 

Sauce, Spanish 222 

" supreme 97 

" tartare 97 

" " hot 97 

" tomato 96 

" white 94 

" " thick 95 

Sauce for Puddings 

" caramel 169 

" chocolate 168 

" creamy 168 

" custard 170 

" fruit 168 

" hard 168 

" lemon 169 

" maple 170 

" " sugar 170 

" meringue 169 

" orange 168 

" pistache 170 

" quick 169 

" Sabyon 169 

" vanilla 171 

" whipped cream 170 

Sausage 81 

balls 81 

" stuffing 90 

" with fried apples 81 

Sauteing 11 

Scalloped fish 53 

Scallops devilled 59 

" fried 60 

Scissors, kitchen 16 

Scorch stain, To remove 333 

Scotch broth 73 

Scrapple 81 

Seasoning, To vary 321 

Shad, broiled 49 

" planked 48 

" roe 49 

" smoked 55 

Shell Fish 55 

Shortening 12 

Shrimps 195 

Sick and Convalescent, For the. ... 319 

Simmering 9 

Smelts, fried 49 

" stuffed 50 

Snow pudding 158 

Soft shell crabs 50 

Souffles 165 

Souffle, baked, of eggs 220 

" cheese 209 

" codfish 52 

" cutlets 191 



PAGE 

Souffle\ lemon 165 

" macaroon 164 

" Spanish 165 

Soup boquet 17 

Soups, to bind 31 

Soup, black beau 39 

" brown 33 

" calf's head 34 

" chicken I, II 35 

" clam 1 36 

" " II 37 

« " bisque 37 

" " " with tomato... 37 

" chowder I, II 38 

" consomme 33 

" " quick 33 

" corn.. 42 

" crab bisque 38 

" cream 40 

" cream of lettuce 41 

" " " mushroom 42 

" "pea 41 

" "potato 41 

" " spinach 41 

" " tomato 40 

" dinner, A 32 

" kornlet 42 

" luncheon, A 32 

" lobster bisque 38 

" oyster 36 

" bisque 37 

" purees (see purees). 

" split pea 39 

" summer 39 

" vegetable 33 

Soup meat to use 32 

Soup stock 31 

" " saving for 32 

Soup, to clarify 31 

Soups with stock 33 

Spaghetti 228 

Spin a thread 15 

Spinach 117 

" a la creme 117 

souffle 117 

Split pea soup 39 

Sponge, A 13 

Squash, summer 118 

Stains, To remove blood 333 

" chocolate 333 

" cocoa 333 

" coffee 333 

" grass 332 

" iron rust 332 

" machine oil 333 

" mildew 333 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX 



349 



PAGE 

Stains, old 333 

■ paint 333 

" perspiration 333 

" scorch 333 

" tea 333 

" turpentine 333 

" vaseline 333 

■ wine 333 

Steak— beef 67 

■ pan broiled 67 

■ planked 67 

" Manhattan 68 

" hamburg 70 

" Kellogg and Cary 68 

" rolled 68 

" Swiss 69 

" tough, A 68 

Stewing 9 

Stew, Irish 72 

Stove, The 7 

Strawberries, preserved 292 

" preserved in the sun . . 292 

" preserved whole 292 

Strawberry Bavarian Cream 156 

frappe 188 

" sponge 160 

" syllabub 160 

trifle 151 

Stuffing for fish I, II 47 

Succotash 108 

Suet Pudding 165 

Suet, To render 10 

Sweetbreads 213 

baked 214 

" creamed 214 

" cutlets 214 

" patties 214 

Sweet Potatoes 

" " augratin 128 

baked 127 

" " balls 128, 311 

boiled 127 

glazed 127 

mashed 127 

pudding 128 

puff 128 

" " Savoy 129 

Southern style 127 

Sweet red peppers, canned 297 



Tapioca, apple I, II 146 

" cherry 146 



PAGE 

Tapioca, cream 146 

jelly 326 

Tar or axle grease, To remove 333 

Tarragon, defined 17 

Tea 24 

■ iced 29 

" stains, To remove 333 

Terrapin 196 

" liver 206 

" To prepare 195 

Testing fat for frying 10 

Timbale, defined 17 

Time table for gas range 19 

" « coal " 20 

Toast 322 

Toast, creamed I, II 322 

" celery 207 

" cheese 209 

" egg 324 

* tomato 207 

Tomatoes 118 

" baked 119 

" baked, stuffed 119 

" broiled 120 

fried I, II, III 120 

" scalloped 118 

" stewed 118 

" stuffed with corn 119 

" rice 119 

" toast 207 

Tongue Relish 197 

Turkey, To select 89 

Turkey, boiled 84 

" roast 90 

" stuffing for, bread crumb . . 90 

" " " chestnut 91 

" " " sausage 90 



Vaseline stains, To remove 333 

Veal and Pork 75 

Veal, To select 75 

Veal, boiled 77 

" braised 75 

" chops 76 

" breaded 76 

" cream mince of, 1 189 

" " " "II 190 

" croquettes 201 

8 cutlets 75 

" knuckle of 76 

" loaf 77 

" minced, casserole of 308 



350 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX 



PAGE 

Veal, olives 76 

a pie 78 

- roast fillet of.... 75 

u stew with dumplings 77 

Vegetables 101 

* soup S3 

Venison Steak 92 

Vermicelli 228 

Victoria Punch 28 

Vinegar, blackberry 29 

* raspberry 29 

u to spice 304 

w 

Waffle Iron 15 

Waffles 241 

* kornlet 242 

u rice 242 



PAGE 

Washing thin dresses 332 

Water Ice, Apricot 186 

" « cherry 185 

a " grape 185 

" " lemon 185 

8 u peach 185 

" u pineapple 185 

u u orange 184 

8 " raspberry 185 

Watermelon rind 300 

Welsh Rabbit I, II 276 

What to Save and Why 316 

Whipped Cream 153 

u u withfruit 153 

Wine jelly 157, 325 

Wine stain. To remove 333 

Wine whey 320 

White fish, smoked 55 



